FYREANT

So I have been wanting more power for a while now. My base C7 (M7) has had a decent amount of work done to it at this point but I need more. Don't we all?? LOL

first off - i'm on completely stock internals (stock cam, block, pistons, heads, etc.)

Car pulled 639HP and 618TQ on a mustang dyno, and ran an 11.1 @ 125mph at Bradenton on slicks. Car seems slow for the power its making. The tune was checked by multiple trusted tuners here on CF and no glaring holes were found. so, it's simply time to throw more power to it.

Here is my current build:

- A&A V3 SI (S-Trim) pushing 9-10PSI with 3.47" pulley (max impeller speed)
- Alky Control dual meth injection (25GPH worth - one 15GPH nozzle, one 10GPH nozzle) spraying 100% meth
- ARH 1 7/8" long tube headers and Xpipe, (no cats)
- WeaponX Ported throttle body
- LMR breather tank

Definitively, I am adding the following:
- Z06 fuel pump (sitting here ready to be installed)
- Z06 fuel rails (sitting here ready to be installed)
- Z06 fuel injectors
- larger blower, probably a T-trim because I don't want to deal with oil lines..

What I'm curious about, is what else can I get away with on the stock bottom end?? Things I am considering doing are an E85 kit, as well as possibly ported heads. I have considered a DoD delete full cam kit as well but the labor involved is a bit much so I am on the fence about it.

I know from reading endless posts on here that the stock bottom end is typically good up to about 700-750, but most of those threads don't appear to take into account the configurations that I'm suggesting with E85/heads/cam. Correct me if I am wrong, but from what we have seen, these motors pop at 700-750 due to too much timing causing broken ring lands. I have read a few threads where people have upwards of 800-850 all day long on the stock bottom end with a proper setup and tune. I would like to get up to around 800 if possible, and run 9.90 in the quarter mile. That's my new goal. So what suggestions do you guys have?

For the record, I do not let ANYONE work on my car mechanically. Only other person to touch the car would be my tuner. That's why I am reluctant to rip her apart for a full forged setup as it would take me a good month to complete without a lift in my garage.

Ant

robert miller

Sounds good man but don't know much about these stock clutch's in these car's but don't see it to last that long are holding up to 800 RWHP on a mustang dyno.

C7&7

Hey Ant,

You're absolutely right that there have been a handful of cars running 750+ on a totally stock internal setup without issues. Hell Vengeance's shop car was making 1000 on a totally stock bottom end, and it may still be? Not sure.

If the car is tuned right I think it would be 100% ok, but to Robert's point above I am not sure about the clutch holding that power for very long. Especially because it sounds like you're going to be launching it and running it at the track. Who cares though, clutches aren't too expensive, let that baby die a hero.

I wanted to do exactly what you're about to do.... turn the car up on a stock bottom end and kind of prove everyone wrong that says 700 wheel is the "limit". I think your car will be fine, you have fuel for days. Just make sure the tune is not to that edge.

KostaT26

I'm on same boat and live close to u who is ur tuner?
cleetus McFarland is putting down 850 on stock block his car holding up pretty good.
Im thinking raising the boost to 13 psi on my Ecs 1500 heads cams and e85 and keeping it right at 800. Last time I dyno I put 690 on a hot car and super hot day. Bradenton Motorsports sucks at prep sometimes it's good but the day I went I got a 2.3 60 foot and still hit 11.3 at 132. But I'm on same boat I want mid 9s on drag radials at least one pass other that it's just Highway monster

FYREANT

Haha yea Robert it probably won't last too long. But it will go out in style!

That's exactly my thinking too, Tim. Most runs will be roll races but there will be one or two days a year at the dragstrip.

Previously my car was tuned by FSP who has since closed it's doors. I ran into issues with that tune though and had to have another forum member help me correct it (Higgs). Can you share the details on what Cleetus has in his set up? Where are you located by the way?

Ben@WeaponX

Just go bigger on the blower, 700-750 is fine as long as your tune is safe. Yes you run the risk of breaking things, but odds are... you'll be OK.

C7&7

Ant, if your goal is 800 wheel you may need more than the T trim though right? I am not too familar with how much boost the T trim makes but it will take 18-20 psi to get you to 800 without any other mods..heads, cam, etc.....

you might need the YSI

If I were you I would consider doing flex fuel and the DOD delete cam. This would get you damn close to 800.

I made 830 with 13psi, heads, cam, meth, and headers. Then 880 on e47.

KostaT26

Yeah my previous tune was with Matt too... gonna be visiting Jeremy formato next. I'm located in Sarasota. YouTube Cletus McFarland he has a video of his whole setup... but he just waiting for a build block, to turn it up... u don't need all that to get 800. A good head cams e85 tune will easily get U close to 800 or over

KostaT26

On stock block and clutch? how is the clutch holding up, I beat the **** out of mine with 345 drag radials and never had any issues or smells from it.

C7&7

No. Totally forged shortblock and manic twin. Was just giving him a point of reference for the mods it takes to get to that 800 wheel number.

FYREANT

i'd like to get up to a solid 800 wheel. Moving up to a T-Trim alone won't be enough to get me there I don't believe..

Yes I think I will need more than the T-Trim if I only did more boost. Thats why i want to augment with other mods. T Trim I believe can do around 14 Psi. No YSI for me. i don't wanna deal with oil lines. Want to stay with a self contained SC. I'd be curious what your car would have done with all your current mods, but without the cam..

I may check out Redline on the other coast. I hear good things about them. May even be able to have Higgs tune remotely for me if he's up to it.. lol

I'll look into that on YouTube tonight when I get home.

C7&7

Ant, I picked up 60 wheel from the cam. That was a stage of my car actually. I was 580 with headers and blower at 8psi then 660 with cam and 702 with cam and meth. Then I went all in with the shortblock.

FYREANT

Really.. so then Comparing apples to apples, if I forego the cam, and do e85 (e47ish) and heads, along with the larger blower I should be around 800-820 then it sounds like! The question is how safe can that be done though..

C7&7

My only concern would be the pistons.

Why do heads and and not the cam though?

Robnelson54

I have the same question as you. Im running a similar set up as you, I have the Texas speed headers 1 7/8, ported throttle body, AA T series blower and single meth.
Im putting out 655 to the wheel and 610 tq on 7psi on auto trans.
Im looking at doing the second meth and a cam soon to try to get up to the 800whp mark, but I have the same concerns about the bottom end holding up..

What size drag radials are you running? That is the next thing I need to get, Im still on stock tires and all I do is spin.

robert miller

One little cough on the tune at any where close to 800 rwhp and that motor will be done. Even with meth in the car with stock piston by the time you know something is wrong on the meth, it will be to late for you to let off of the right foot.

FYREANT

To do the cam you must pull the oil pan unfortunately. That is no small feat on this car. If I have to pull the pan and the heads, I would end up doing the whole motor. So trying to avoid it if I can. For the heads I would simply do P/P heads and swap over my valves and hardware.

305 Nitto NT05R's. they hook great at the track.

that's why I did IAT breakout. As aoon as the temp of the IAT starts to get above a threshold the tune yanks the timing to save the motor..

FYREANT

Hence the need for this thread.. I'm hoping we can get some factual data in here to confirm the pistons at over 800 wheel will be fine with the right supporting setup without pushing the timing to the point of no return lol

robert miller

If the unit works 100% then the piston's as you know will be the weak point. I still say at that level Ant that if something goes wrong at all you will have a broken piston & ring out of # 7 are 5 hole.

But with that said have seen a number of c5 running 800 plus to 900 RWHP for some time on the stock bottom end.

But also if you do go with better pistons are pull the heads I would also down in some ARP head STUDS. A little more money but well worth it in that HP range..

old motorhead

I'd do more sleuth work to try and figure out why your trap speeds are so low for the amount of power you're making. With good tires, you should be solidly in the 10's too. That would seem to me to be the prudent thing to do before throwing more boost at it. Seems to me like your trap speeds are a solid at 8+mph low for the power you're making.