Educate me on my meth kit. Alky Control-how to troubleshoot
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Educate me on my meth kit. Alky Control-how to troubleshoot
So it seems I am now having issues in Fantasy Land. It was only a matter of time. With a perfect tune and great install I thought the world of issues associated to modding were behind me. WRONG LOL So its not that bad and I am sure I will figure it out. Hell I did the install I better know how to troubleshoot it. Looking for thought processes here and hoping it will help others.
About 2 weeks ago I assume I ran out of meth. Car would backfire or otherwise pop under 100% throttle. I also would get the occasional low windshield fluid. So I fill her back up. Never test it just fill it. Last week I went to get on it and felt the slight backfire and got out. Figured it was low. Yesterday I get in the car and remembered the experience so I filled up. It took less then a cup. So we know we have meth. I started my initial testing by watching the light on the meth box (alky control) it never turns green. I push the "test" button and nothing happens. Next step is to disconnect nozzle, put in cup, test it. See if I get anything. Note that the indicator light was disconnected for a relocation project. There is no way in hell this system stopped working because the light is disconnected is there? I am really hoping the pump isn't already bad. What are your thoughts? What are some of the first things you all would check? I drove the car to work and stayed out of boost. It otherwise drives just fine.
About 2 weeks ago I assume I ran out of meth. Car would backfire or otherwise pop under 100% throttle. I also would get the occasional low windshield fluid. So I fill her back up. Never test it just fill it. Last week I went to get on it and felt the slight backfire and got out. Figured it was low. Yesterday I get in the car and remembered the experience so I filled up. It took less then a cup. So we know we have meth. I started my initial testing by watching the light on the meth box (alky control) it never turns green. I push the "test" button and nothing happens. Next step is to disconnect nozzle, put in cup, test it. See if I get anything. Note that the indicator light was disconnected for a relocation project. There is no way in hell this system stopped working because the light is disconnected is there? I am really hoping the pump isn't already bad. What are your thoughts? What are some of the first things you all would check? I drove the car to work and stayed out of boost. It otherwise drives just fine.
#2
I'm Batman..
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What about the LED on the control box? Does it light up red when you have the ignition on? If you want I can PM you my phone number and you can call me. I may be able to help a little..
Ant
Ant
#3
Burning Brakes
subscribed in case I run into similar issue. I have the same Alky Control but installed and tuned by Andy at A&A Corvette about a month ago. I still cannot wipe the smile off my face, even while I am sleeping my wife says I am smiling ear to ear. Good luck and hope you get it figured out.
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WarHammer619 (05-15-2017)
#4
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ttt
Buddy I know you have the rubber on the motor, But let me tell you if that motor has going water in it will go out FAST have you driven the car much in the rain. I would check the motor as one of the main things first. Then inside the box there is a small microswitch that can go bad.
All of this above has happen to me in the past.
All of this above has happen to me in the past.
#5
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Ant- Control box lights up red but not sure if it is the same LED as on the dash that changes to green when spraying. I can tell you under bost today or when I test it stays red. I never watched it before. The dash light would go green when spraying. I need to connect that light again. I was in the middle of a relocation. I will send you a PM. Thanks !!!
Robert- Damn you man. I hope none of that is true. Water are you kidding. This car barely gets washed much less driven in the rain. LOL All things I need to consider.
Robert- Damn you man. I hope none of that is true. Water are you kidding. This car barely gets washed much less driven in the rain. LOL All things I need to consider.
#6
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The pumps come with a rubber boot over them so water really isn't an issue unless you really went up above the door sills in water.
If it were here we have a regulated air supply with a boost gauge we use to do the initial set up and diagnostic if needed. We just put it to the boost line that goes to the alky MAP sensor, remove the nozzle from the intake and you can see exactly what is going on with the system very quickly.
If you have any electrical issues with the kit give Julio a call, the guy is a vat of knowledge with this stuff and is always willing to help.
If it were here we have a regulated air supply with a boost gauge we use to do the initial set up and diagnostic if needed. We just put it to the boost line that goes to the alky MAP sensor, remove the nozzle from the intake and you can see exactly what is going on with the system very quickly.
If you have any electrical issues with the kit give Julio a call, the guy is a vat of knowledge with this stuff and is always willing to help.
#7
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Ant- Control box lights up red but not sure if it is the same LED as on the dash that changes to green when spraying. I can tell you under bost today or when I test it stays red. I never watched it before. The dash light would go green when spraying. I need to connect that light again. I was in the middle of a relocation. I will send you a PM. Thanks !!!
Robert- Damn you man. I hope none of that is true. Water are you kidding. This car barely gets washed much less driven in the rain. LOL All things I need to consider.
Robert- Damn you man. I hope none of that is true. Water are you kidding. This car barely gets washed much less driven in the rain. LOL All things I need to consider.
Then a small mircoswitch went out in the little box it pump all the meth into the intercooler and the intake of the car.
Hope your is only a ground are something small. Robert
#8
Melting Slicks
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C7 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Did you check the controll box voltage to turn on the pump? It's the little dial under the cover. I had a similar issue and turned mine up a little and everything went back to normal.
On the main controller is an access door. Opening the access door reveals two controls internally labeled “TURN-ON” and “INITIAL”. The turn-on control allows the user to set a turn-on voltage from 1.7volts to 5volts. Clockwise rotation increases the voltage needed to trigger system. The “INITIAL” control determines how much voltage is sent to the pump when the system is triggered. Typical settings are factory preset for 4 PSI turn-on with a 2 volt output to the pump. These can be recalibrated by the user by simply turning the controls clockwise to increase, counter clockwise to reduce. A LITTLE AT A TIME. Use fingers or small flat screwdriver. An electronic voltmeter can be used for initial pump setup as well. Procedure involves placing voltmeter across terminals on power distribution block and pressing the push button on remote controller. Typical setting is 1-3 volts. Next is the “Pump Gain Control” on the remote controller. This control interacts with the initial pump speed control. Usual and typical settings place this **** in the 12-2 o’clock position. It is used to ramp the voltage gain to the pump as the signal from the MAP sensor increases. Turning this **** clockwise will increase output voltage multiplication and slightly increase the initial pump speed. Only way to know what is best suited for your particular application is trial and error.
On the main controller is an access door. Opening the access door reveals two controls internally labeled “TURN-ON” and “INITIAL”. The turn-on control allows the user to set a turn-on voltage from 1.7volts to 5volts. Clockwise rotation increases the voltage needed to trigger system. The “INITIAL” control determines how much voltage is sent to the pump when the system is triggered. Typical settings are factory preset for 4 PSI turn-on with a 2 volt output to the pump. These can be recalibrated by the user by simply turning the controls clockwise to increase, counter clockwise to reduce. A LITTLE AT A TIME. Use fingers or small flat screwdriver. An electronic voltmeter can be used for initial pump setup as well. Procedure involves placing voltmeter across terminals on power distribution block and pressing the push button on remote controller. Typical setting is 1-3 volts. Next is the “Pump Gain Control” on the remote controller. This control interacts with the initial pump speed control. Usual and typical settings place this **** in the 12-2 o’clock position. It is used to ramp the voltage gain to the pump as the signal from the MAP sensor increases. Turning this **** clockwise will increase output voltage multiplication and slightly increase the initial pump speed. Only way to know what is best suited for your particular application is trial and error.
Last edited by chefcg1; 04-07-2017 at 09:14 PM.
#9
I would disconnect the hose at the jet on your charge tube (before the check valve) and place it into a water bottle. Press the TEST button for about a minute to purge the system of any air in the line caused by running out of meth. Then reconnect the hose and see if you get the LED to change to green at pressure.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
#10
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sounds like too much meth, do you have a wideband to verify? IMO, no one should be running these kinds of mods without constant monitoring ability.
Too many people think a modified (especially with ancillary systems to factory setup) are set and done/fixed but in reality its dynamic and variable and needs to be watched.
Too many people think a modified (especially with ancillary systems to factory setup) are set and done/fixed but in reality its dynamic and variable and needs to be watched.
#11
Le Mans Master
sounds like too much meth, do you have a wideband to verify? IMO, no one should be running these kinds of mods without constant monitoring ability.
Too many people think a modified (especially with ancillary systems to factory setup) are set and done/fixed but in reality its dynamic and variable and needs to be watched.
Too many people think a modified (especially with ancillary systems to factory setup) are set and done/fixed but in reality its dynamic and variable and needs to be watched.
This is what my car does when I test the system (once a week). If the car is just sitting at idle and I just blip the test button the car stumbles and the wideband goes pig rich. If he's not hearing or feeling the car react to the meth at idle then the pump/kit isn't working.
Last edited by C7&7; 04-14-2017 at 07:44 AM.
#12
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Agreed higgs, however wouldn't the car stumble like crazy at idol when testing the system? If the system was working properly that is.
This is what my car does when I test the system (once a week). If the car is just sitting at idol and I just blip the test button the car stumbles and the wideband goes pig rich. If he's not hearing or feeling the car react to the meth at idol then the pump/kit isn't working.
This is what my car does when I test the system (once a week). If the car is just sitting at idol and I just blip the test button the car stumbles and the wideband goes pig rich. If he's not hearing or feeling the car react to the meth at idol then the pump/kit isn't working.
Last edited by robert miller; 04-10-2017 at 05:31 PM.
#13
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St. Jude Donor '15
Stop driving it until you can get a wideband on it. It sounds like it's going so lean it's misfiring
You can't just crank a meth system up or down or on or off or whatever without a wideband to see where you're at
You can't just crank a meth system up or down or on or off or whatever without a wideband to see where you're at
#15
Burning Brakes
sounds like too much meth, do you have a wideband to verify? IMO, no one should be running these kinds of mods without constant monitoring ability.
Too many people think a modified (especially with ancillary systems to factory setup) are set and done/fixed but in reality its dynamic and variable and needs to be watched.
Too many people think a modified (especially with ancillary systems to factory setup) are set and done/fixed but in reality its dynamic and variable and needs to be watched.
#16
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St. Jude Donor '15
Do you have a wideband?
#17
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https://www.hptuners.com/forum/showt...o-and-how-to-s
https://www.hptuners.com/forum/showt...al-Information
https://www.hptuners.com/forum/showt...al-information
#20
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
O.K. fellas riddle me this. I have finally decided to take a look at the issue. So when I hit the test button I don't get a green light, when I get into boost I don't get a green light, BUT when I remove the line under the hood and put a water bottle to the fitting I get meth. I am going to remove the nozzle and see if it is possibly clogged but why no green light???