raylo

Not really serious enough yet to bother A&A directly, but enough that I read the directions for the basic install. A couple of quick questions for those of you that DIY'ed this.

1. Is there anything different for the Z51?
2. Do you need to drain the coolant? Looks to me like no?
3. Does the package come with a tune (and a device to install it) for a standard low boost (550-575 HP) no-meth install?
4. I read about possible front seal issues. Is it a good idea to install an upgraded seal whilst installing the kit?

Kinda getting the itch and the job doesn't look that difficult... will soon have plenty of time (retiring). Honestly the parts that worry me the most are cutting the plastic panel accurately and fishing the charge hoses through where the directions say it is tight but "will go". Is that perhaps an understatement?

kc stingray

if you are still shopping and comparing kits. procharger offers a canned tune,and supplied pieces from gm that are pre cut. makes it easier to return to stock if needed. also no need for abs module repositioning or water pump change.

RpeterK

On the other hand its much easier to modify the parts needed then to change them out. Much easier. For the few that revert back to stock its really a non issue. The ECS kit also makes more torque then they other two if installed as supplied and it comes with a blower that will make serious power with nothing more then a pulley change as long as supplemental fuel is addressed. Ecs kit can also be installed without removing the nose of the car. The coolant does need to be drained and yes the ABS is moved some.

robert miller

I like the A/A set up you get a new great after market balancer. Plus simple bolt on & it also has a great pulley set up that helps not letting the belt slip on you.. Plus if you need help Andy always pick up on the phone & about to help on any questions. Robert

FYREANT

1. yes, there is a difference. Need to get the one made for your model.
2. Yes you have to drain coolant.
3. No, no tune is included, but one will be indeed needed.
4. Get a breather tank. No issues with crankcase pressure then.

Cutting the panel isn't too bad. Fishing the hoses through isn’t that bad. The biggest PITA is relocating the ABS module.

Call Josh at A&A. He’ll get you setup. Make sure to ask for the free upgraded head unit.

Ant

only9balls

Do you happen to know what the difference is? I am installing a Z51 kit today, but am kind of stuck on what to do with the transmission cooler in the front, as it sits directly where the intercooler goes


Do you know what the process is for those (hopefully not removing it)?


Thanks,
Dave

raylo

I'm guessing you have an A8. I seem to recall reading somewhere that the secondary tranny cooler needs to be removed, if that's what that piece is. But don't quote me on that, my memory might not be correct. Luckily mine is an M7.

FYREANT

The difference is the crank pulley. If you have a Z51 the crank pulley is different than the wet sump. That is because the crank on a Z51 (and Z06) stick out farther so the pulley has a longer snout. Mine is an M7 2014 which predates all ancillary coolers in the front.

raylo

2. Yes you have to drain coolant.

Strange, I didn't see any steps in the install instructions that disconnected any hoses or the water pump?

4. Get a breather tank. No issues with crankcase pressure then.

Would a catch can be a better solution to maintain the PCV circuit and increase the volume a bit? But with the SC in there where would the can go?

The biggest PITA is relocating the ABS module.

How far does the module need to move?


Call Josh at A&A. He’ll get you setup. Make sure to ask for the free upgraded head unit.

Will do when (if) I am ready.

only9balls

The instructions do have a little blurb in there about removing a small coolant hose connector on the drivers side of the radiator, in order to make removal of the sway bar possible, but they don't mention that you should drain the coolant prior to removing that connector. Unless you have a full length lift you can stand under, you will need to disconnect that hose to get the sway bar out.


I figure mine is two years old now, so it could use a coolant change anyways.

raylo

Ahh... thanks, I missed that. I have a QuickJack, can't stand under but is full length.

FYREANT

Unless they changed the instructions, you have to remove the lower radiator hose from the engine side and trim about 3 inches off it.

Not really. A breather tank is the way to go. Could do a mighty mouse setup. But I have an LMR breather and my car been good ever since.

Enough to be not fun. You will need help with this. Someone will need to hold it when it needs to go while you put the bolts back in.

only9balls

I am using a Quickjack as well, and the vehicle is too close to the ground to finagle the sway bar out without removing the hose.

only9balls

I don't think that is necessary, it only requires relocating the lower hose slightly, by drilling a new mounting hole for the hose clamp in the fan assembly.

FYREANT

I never removed that hose when i did mine actually.

They must have changed the instructions then. For my 2014 I had to cut 3” off the hose.

only9balls

Well, the day isn't over yet LOL, I am still in the middle of installing mine, who knows what other hidden gems I will find

chefcg1

do not need to drain coolant, I did not. Abs modular is easy to move, at least I thought so. You have to remove trans cooler.

raylo

How far does the ABS module move? From the photos it looks like it moves toward the wheel well. Is that correct? Those big lines aren't hard to bend?

only9balls

I was actually able to relocate the trans cooler It did require a small bit of fabrication though.

ricmalaz

I just finished my self install of the A&A Si on my 2016 Z51 and got it tuned today. Did not have to drain the coolant.