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I really like this concept but an fittings are generally restrictive. Doing a manifold in a reverse return piping layout would guarantee equal flow. I am curious to see how these work out.
MAN, was this painful, this was not a easy install. from tightening the AN fittings down, them hitting each other. to the water then leaking from the threads themselves. that last issue i ran into was them banging into the hood as I closed it. I greased the threads and hopefull that stops water from going through them. i turned them all outward to get the hood to close for now. looks like im running all new hoses to change the orentation of the 90 degree fittings.
It looks like they used 120 degree AN elbows in the photos. I had the dual water manifolds on my LS9 as that stock manifold was pretty restrictive. Dealing with 4 hoses on that was a huge pain in the ***, and difficult to look good. I think that’s why im so hesitant to do it. I ended up with so much extra hose, I don’t think it gained anything. Upon examination of the stock manifold, I think their statement of water starving the other brick is incorrect. Water actually wants to keep going straight down the tube, it’s that frictional resistance that would cause it to want to share water with the closer brick. Typically, a 90* turn is equal to the frictional resistance of 3-5 feet of straight pipe, which is why they reduce the diameter after the first brick. My guess is flow is pretty equal. I ported the openings in the manifold, and also ported the casting flash on the inlet, as well as the water passages in the snout as the casting flash is insane. I’m going to put in 2 small thermistors to see if there is a temp difference. Unfortunately I won’t be able to drive the car til all the snow is gone and the salt is off the roads. I also bought the Stewart EMP pump and the Fasterproms tank. After rerouting the hoses, I think those 2 will have the biggest impact on the IATS. The way the fluid is routed now is insane.
Last edited by Silvah Goat; 12-28-2018 at 11:35 AM.
Thanks Silvah, yeah I hope this is worth the hassle. The fact my hood wouldn't close was the last straw. I may go back to the original setup. Just upset I spent alot of money this single pass setup and it's been a nightmare.
I tried to make it look as nice as possible but man looks like a rats nest. I get the point of the single pass tho. But there has to be a better way.
My gut feeling is that even if the flow isn’t perfectly balanced, it’s close enough for this application. Adding the Stewart pump will jam much more flow through the bricks regardless of any factory fluid manifold imperfections.. And the much greater flow of water should result in more turbulence through the system, increasing heat transfer IMO.
Doing some basic flow calculations, I'm thinking these blocks and all the hose upsizing people are doing is pointless. Sure things help, but frictional resistance occurs over a distance. With 1/2" hose, the pressure drop is 16.96 feet (7.3 psi) at 4 gpm per 100ft. At 8 gpm, it's 62.45' per 100 ft. So we can use 0.16/ft and 0.62/ft. So even at 8gpm, having 10 feet of hose gets you 6.2' head. The Stewart EMP at 8 gpm generates 26 PSI which is 60 feet of head, which close to the shutoff head of the pump (means it can't pump any harder). So even if there was 10' of frictional resistance in the bricks (not common), and 10' in fittings etc, 10' in the heat exchanger, and 10' in places I can't guess, you still can't stop the system from flowing 8gpm with the stewart pump. Larger hose obviously flows more at less resistance, but there are bottlenecks in the system. Just because hose flows more at less head, other components have a parabolic response to increased flow. When moving fluids, if you push too hard, they will push back regardless of the size of the transitional piping between components.
Last edited by Silvah Goat; 12-28-2018 at 11:57 PM.
Thanks Silvah, yeah I hope this is worth the hassle. The fact my hood wouldn't close was the last straw. I may go back to the original setup. Just upset I spent alot of money this single pass setup and it's been a nightmare.
I tried to make it look as nice as possible but man looks like a rats nest. I get the point of the single pass tho. But there has to be a better way.
there certainly is a better way
these were not designed to go under the stock C7 hood, we normally use the taller ones but sent you the tighter 90s as I thought they’d work still.
How close is it to hitting? I can send you a set of cradle spacers to lower it and then you can turn the front bolts down more to take up the space in the fenders and you won’t even be able to tell. I am pretty sure that the hoses on top of the HX tank would keep your hood from closing though.
Bruce this whole setup really needs some routing help to make your life easier. You need to run each side outwards first off, and secondly this was meant to be able to add dual pumps like the ZR1 and then Y them together before the HX, or jumping up to the big Stewart EMP. If you’ve done either then great, if not, then you are still equalizing flow through both sides as the passenger brick is starved more from the coolant crossover taking the path of least resistance, but you’re not taking full advantage of the reason for them.
Last edited by Ben@WeaponX; 12-29-2018 at 11:35 AM.
Thanks Ben, Its pretty significant, thought the spacers may help.I might rerun the hoses outward like that picture and it should help. the car is out for tuning right now.
11-02-2018, 12:22 PM
WeaponX LT4 COOLING MANIFOLD ADAPTERS
