Tuner (no names) states waste of $$ to install 2300 for 700 whp
#1
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Tuner (no names) states waste of $$ to install 2300 for 700 whp
Was talking to him about tuning setups when I get ready to mod, and mentioned to him I might install a 2300. His opinion was that the stock blower with a smaller pulley and E50 kit with stock fuel system would be enough for 700 whp and that installing a 2300 would be a waste of time for those hp goals. Looking for some experienced opinions on this.
Thanks
Thanks
Last edited by Shinobi'sZ; 12-01-2018 at 01:26 PM.
#4
Drifting
If 700whp... Even to 750whp is the end goal then yes it would be a waste. The stock blower is just fine probably even yielding more torque at those levels.
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Shinobi'sZ (12-01-2018)
#5
Instructor
Was talking to him about tuning setups when I get ready to mod, and mentioned to him I might install a 2300. His opinion was that the stock blower with a smaller pulley and E50 kit with stock fuel system would be enough for 700 whp and that installing a 2300 would be a waste of time for those hp goals. Looking for some experienced opinions on this.
Thanks
Thanks
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CorvetteBrent (12-02-2018),
Shinobi'sZ (12-01-2018)
#6
Melting Slicks
You did say it had a stock blower so your original post leads one to think Lt4. I have a 2300 on my LT1 so i can see why he asked.
#7
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Nice of you to explain for him. I have my cars listed in my sig and said I had a stock blower so I thought it was implied.
Last edited by Shinobi'sZ; 12-01-2018 at 10:31 PM.
#9
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ttt
I agree with other in here on your post stay with the stock blower & just work on the low $$ to get the stock set up to those #. Now if you want some bigger #'s look at a F1X with a stock pulley r even a bigger pulley to keep the boost & rwhp down on it. Then you can always step it up if you want to do more in the fueling pump mod for the car.. I loved the F1X due to it power level & when its power comes in on the car in the RPM range. You dont have to paddle the car so much with the F1X..
Which ever way you go at those # the car will be fun for sure... Robert
Which ever way you go at those # the car will be fun for sure... Robert
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CorvetteBrent (12-02-2018)
#10
Melting Slicks
Lol, in b4 thread becomes a cluster...2300 vs LT4 depends on ultimate goals. The stock lt4 blower is capable of high 9’s and 700’s. Its not optimal as you get more heat and all the side effects, but definitely a bang for the buck option that I would definitely do if I were looking to stay in the high 9 sec or 700whp level. There have been a couple of shops that have surfaced lately that have been able to produce dyno/track numbers out of the 2300’s, so depending on the tuner the 2300 may be able to go slightly further. The upcoming 2,650 will be the hot ticket very soon, assuming it has some provision to add fueling. RE: tuner advice....Sounds like a good tuner, who is trying to save you money if your goals are as stated.
Last edited by Earl H; 12-02-2018 at 02:19 AM.
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Shinobi'sZ (12-02-2018)
#11
Maybe for dyno numbers. Spinning that little blower faster will only create even more heat. It already has a problem. I will be going with the bigger blower myself. Not even going to waste my time with the stock 1.7.
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Shinobi'sZ (12-02-2018)
#12
Le Mans Master
I was just going through this decision process for my ZL1. I decided to get the 2300. I got it for such a good price that by the time I sell my stock blower, I'll be into the 2300 for under $2k. The 2300 will give me the headroom to mod more in the future if I choose to.
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Shinobi'sZ (12-02-2018)
#13
Depends on your goals. Is goal to have high hp dyno number or performance? I decide to go with 2300 since I track my car- road course. Much cooler and more efficient than 1.7 and use pump gas only.
Look at cost spending money on moding 1.7-porting, pulleys, e85, meth, heatx etc.. 2300 cost is around $4,500 less what you can sell the 1.7 $1,000-$$1,500. It’s a bargain for performance.
Look at cost spending money on moding 1.7-porting, pulleys, e85, meth, heatx etc.. 2300 cost is around $4,500 less what you can sell the 1.7 $1,000-$$1,500. It’s a bargain for performance.
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Shinobi'sZ (12-02-2018)
#14
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Lol, in b4 thread becomes a cluster...2300 vs LT4 depends on ultimate goals. The stock lt4 blower is capable of high 9’s and 700’s. Its not optimal as you get more heat and all the side effects, but definitely a bang for the buck option that I would definitely do if I were looking to stay in the high 9 sec or 700whp level. There have been a couple of shops that have surfaced lately that have been able to produce dyno/track numbers out of the 2300’s, so depending on the tuner the 2300 may be able to go slightly further. The upcoming 2,650 will be the hot ticket very soon, assuming it has some provision to add fueling. RE: tuner advice....Sounds like a good tuner, who is trying to save you money if your goals are as stated.
I was just going through this decision process for my ZL1. I decided to get the 2300. I got it for such a good price that by the time I sell my stock blower, I'll be into the 2300 for under $2k. The 2300 will give me the headroom to mod more in the future if I choose to.
Depends on your goals. Is goal to have high hp dyno number or performance? I decide to go with 2300 since I track my car- road course. Much cooler and more efficient than 1.7 and use pump gas only.
Look at cost spending money on moding 1.7-porting, pulleys, e85, meth, heatx etc.. 2300 cost is around $4,500 less what you can sell the 1.7 $1,000-$$1,500. It’s a bargain for performance.
Look at cost spending money on moding 1.7-porting, pulleys, e85, meth, heatx etc.. 2300 cost is around $4,500 less what you can sell the 1.7 $1,000-$$1,500. It’s a bargain for performance.
For some of us that have been around for awhile this Forced Induction section reminds me of the C5 FI section from 2003-2008. lol Moving on.
I have no doubt the tuner is actually being up front. But guys like Earl and myself who have went through many mods...I think I was first with most of the significant FI poweradders for the C5 from having the first ATI D1 that I gave to Andy at A&A after ARE sent it to me, to having the first TTi kit with the R&D and mods by Phil leading to the TTiX kit, and then my final resting place with the PTK Twin Turbo kit which Jim Hall (Haltech) let me inspect his car from his TT kit, which would have been the nicest top mount TT kit had it released.
What I learned from having my 427 CTS-V and customized TVS2300...and using meth to keep down IATs, which Rick at Synergy confirmed were still pretty high, was that the OLD TVS 2300 with a 427 was too small a blower at 14lbs of boost on an LPE 427. Spinning the 2300 blower to 14#s was too small a for a 427, and although it was great while cool it got heat soaked after about an hour driving and I could tell the difference.
So I have a lot of questions when I see over spinning a small blower such as the 1.7 and concerns regarding IATs. However a lot of guys on here have done just fine with what was available and have backed it up with 1/4 mile times. But in my mind the Z06 should be able to put down a respectable 1/4 time, but also hold up on a road course. JBSBlown runs his car hard at HPDE events and he has the stock 1.7 with pullies, headers, CAI, expansion tank, meth, and does just fine without the additional cooling that is available (front fascia mods and intercoolers).
As we have seen with the ZR1 it has a bigger blower, it also has extra intercoolers which are great. But I think that having a cooler IAT from a more efficient blower is why the reliability factor goes up the most.
To me the biggest problems with the cooling are a combination of factors. The first being the OEM oil cooler location, which LPE, DeWitts and others are coming up with great aftermarket oil cooling circuits to keep the internals cooler. That alone problem solves 70% of the issue and GM should just retro fit the cars with a similar oil cooler. I believe at least one tuner even on here ran a HPDE with the hood off the car and it still went into limp mode, no other mods.
But a heat soaked 1.7 after 20 mins of HPDE creates high IATs that the internal cooling then has to combat. I believe most of the limp modes from HPDEs are from IATs being too high. I think this why spraying meth and having a larger expansion tank allows for guys like Joel to run his modified C7 Z M7 at 700+ rwhp and not have a problem on the track after 20 mins. But he did this stuff before the 2300 was really available.
From what I can see the 2300 looks like it will support up to 900hp with supporting fuel system modifications. If I paid somebody else to install and buy parts and keep the 1.7, I'm looking at about $4500. CAI, Headers, Tune (ECM only, TCM for A8 add another $700), Flex Fuel, and maybe a blower pulley. Results should yield between 640-700 with an A8, depending on pullies.
OR
Buy a 2300 fro $4900, but then need also to buy headers, CAI, and tune, so add another for those mods $2000-2700 (A8 TCM). Puts the total at about $7-8K assuming I install the blower.
The results without any fuel system modifications to the 2300 are about only 30 rwhp more vs. modding the 1.7. I'm not trying to build another 1000hp (850 rwhp) that I can't really drive on street tires. On my C5 I ended up lowering the boost from 18# to 9# for using 91 octane which yielded 600 rwhp and was very streetable with 335 Toyo Proxes.
So as much as I appreciate the efficiency of the 2300, so long as the 1.7 can generate between 650-700 rwhp on E50 mix and not harm anything, I can then add the DeWitts oil coolers and I think it should be able to tackle street, strip, and track, without issues....track being the only event that really exposes the limp mode issue with OEM setups.
Anybody see anything I missed or overlooked?
Last edited by Shinobi'sZ; 12-02-2018 at 10:52 AM.
#16
Magnuson includes 3 yr/ 36k limited power train warranty for what is worth.
http://www.magnusonsuperchargers.com...les.asp?ID=254
http://www.magnusonsuperchargers.com...les.asp?ID=254
#17
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One thing I'm not finding a lot is what the results are when using just the 2300 with the stock fuel system and 91 octane. Looks like a lot people use the same mods with both the 1.7 and the 2300 with respect to:
Common Mods to both
Headers
CAI
Mixed Mods
E85, Meth, Pullies, Cam, Low Side DI, etc.
Anybody know of a setup just running a 2300 with Headers, CAI, and a tune for pump gas or even flex fuel E50?
Common Mods to both
Headers
CAI
Mixed Mods
E85, Meth, Pullies, Cam, Low Side DI, etc.
Anybody know of a setup just running a 2300 with Headers, CAI, and a tune for pump gas or even flex fuel E50?
#18
Drifting
I agree and also believe the tuner is trying to save me $$ based on the goals I identified. I will explain a little more about my thoughts over all below.
Agree. This is the question I am contemplating whether it is a waste of time or not.
Agree good to factor in selling the stock blower and having more headroom.
Agree too. Have to factor in selling the 1.7 to recover some costs, otherwise it will just take up space in my garage.
For some of us that have been around for awhile this Forced Induction section reminds me of the C5 FI section from 2003-2008. lol Moving on.
I have no doubt the tuner is actually being up front. But guys like Earl and myself who have went through many mods...I think I was first with most of the significant FI poweradders for the C5 from having the first ATI D1 that I gave to Andy at A&A after ARE sent it to me, to having the first TTi kit with the R&D and mods by Phil leading to the TTiX kit, and then my final resting place with the PTK Twin Turbo kit which Jim Hall (Haltech) let me inspect his car from his TT kit, which would have been the nicest top mount TT kit had it released.
What I learned from having my 427 CTS-V and customized TVS2300...and using meth to keep down IATs, which Rick at Synergy confirmed were still pretty high, was that the OLD TVS 2300 with a 427 was too small a blower at 14lbs of boost on an LPE 427. Spinning the 2300 blower to 14#s was too small a for a 427, and although it was great while cool it got heat soaked after about an hour driving and I could tell the difference.
So I have a lot of questions when I see over spinning a small blower such as the 1.7 and concerns regarding IATs. However a lot of guys on here have done just fine with what was available and have backed it up with 1/4 mile times. But in my mind the Z06 should be able to put down a respectable 1/4 time, but also hold up on a road course. JBSBlown runs his car hard at HPDE events and he has the stock 1.7 with pullies, headers, CAI, expansion tank, meth, and does just fine without the additional cooling that is available (front fascia mods and intercoolers).
As we have seen with the ZR1 it has a bigger blower, it also has extra intercoolers which are great. But I think that having a cooler IAT from a more efficient blower is why the reliability factor goes up the most.
To me the biggest problems with the cooling are a combination of factors. The first being the OEM oil cooler location, which LPE, DeWitts and others are coming up with great aftermarket oil cooling circuits to keep the internals cooler. That alone problem solves 70% of the issue and GM should just retro fit the cars with a similar oil cooler. I believe at least one tuner even on here ran a HPDE with the hood off the car and it still went into limp mode, no other mods.
But a heat soaked 1.7 after 20 mins of HPDE creates high IATs that the internal cooling then has to combat. I believe most of the limp modes from HPDEs are from IATs being too high. I think this why spraying meth and having a larger expansion tank allows for guys like Joel to run his modified C7 Z M7 at 700+ rwhp and not have a problem on the track after 20 mins. But he did this stuff before the 2300 was really available.
From what I can see the 2300 looks like it will support up to 900hp with supporting fuel system modifications. If I paid somebody else to install and buy parts and keep the 1.7, I'm looking at about $4500. CAI, Headers, Tune (ECM only, TCM for A8 add another $700), Flex Fuel, and maybe a blower pulley. Results should yield between 640-700 with an A8, depending on pullies.
OR
Buy a 2300 fro $4900, but then need also to buy headers, CAI, and tune, so add another for those mods $2000-2700 (A8 TCM). Puts the total at about $7-8K assuming I install the blower.
The results without any fuel system modifications to the 2300 are about only 30 rwhp more vs. modding the 1.7. I'm not trying to build another 1000hp (850 rwhp) that I can't really drive on street tires. On my C5 I ended up lowering the boost from 18# to 9# for using 91 octane which yielded 600 rwhp and was very streetable with 335 Toyo Proxes.
So as much as I appreciate the efficiency of the 2300, so long as the 1.7 can generate between 650-700 rwhp on E50 mix and not harm anything, I can then add the DeWitts oil coolers and I think it should be able to tackle street, strip, and track, without issues....track being the only event that really exposes the limp mode issue with OEM setups.
Anybody see anything I missed or overlooked?
Agree. This is the question I am contemplating whether it is a waste of time or not.
Agree good to factor in selling the stock blower and having more headroom.
Agree too. Have to factor in selling the 1.7 to recover some costs, otherwise it will just take up space in my garage.
For some of us that have been around for awhile this Forced Induction section reminds me of the C5 FI section from 2003-2008. lol Moving on.
I have no doubt the tuner is actually being up front. But guys like Earl and myself who have went through many mods...I think I was first with most of the significant FI poweradders for the C5 from having the first ATI D1 that I gave to Andy at A&A after ARE sent it to me, to having the first TTi kit with the R&D and mods by Phil leading to the TTiX kit, and then my final resting place with the PTK Twin Turbo kit which Jim Hall (Haltech) let me inspect his car from his TT kit, which would have been the nicest top mount TT kit had it released.
What I learned from having my 427 CTS-V and customized TVS2300...and using meth to keep down IATs, which Rick at Synergy confirmed were still pretty high, was that the OLD TVS 2300 with a 427 was too small a blower at 14lbs of boost on an LPE 427. Spinning the 2300 blower to 14#s was too small a for a 427, and although it was great while cool it got heat soaked after about an hour driving and I could tell the difference.
So I have a lot of questions when I see over spinning a small blower such as the 1.7 and concerns regarding IATs. However a lot of guys on here have done just fine with what was available and have backed it up with 1/4 mile times. But in my mind the Z06 should be able to put down a respectable 1/4 time, but also hold up on a road course. JBSBlown runs his car hard at HPDE events and he has the stock 1.7 with pullies, headers, CAI, expansion tank, meth, and does just fine without the additional cooling that is available (front fascia mods and intercoolers).
As we have seen with the ZR1 it has a bigger blower, it also has extra intercoolers which are great. But I think that having a cooler IAT from a more efficient blower is why the reliability factor goes up the most.
To me the biggest problems with the cooling are a combination of factors. The first being the OEM oil cooler location, which LPE, DeWitts and others are coming up with great aftermarket oil cooling circuits to keep the internals cooler. That alone problem solves 70% of the issue and GM should just retro fit the cars with a similar oil cooler. I believe at least one tuner even on here ran a HPDE with the hood off the car and it still went into limp mode, no other mods.
But a heat soaked 1.7 after 20 mins of HPDE creates high IATs that the internal cooling then has to combat. I believe most of the limp modes from HPDEs are from IATs being too high. I think this why spraying meth and having a larger expansion tank allows for guys like Joel to run his modified C7 Z M7 at 700+ rwhp and not have a problem on the track after 20 mins. But he did this stuff before the 2300 was really available.
From what I can see the 2300 looks like it will support up to 900hp with supporting fuel system modifications. If I paid somebody else to install and buy parts and keep the 1.7, I'm looking at about $4500. CAI, Headers, Tune (ECM only, TCM for A8 add another $700), Flex Fuel, and maybe a blower pulley. Results should yield between 640-700 with an A8, depending on pullies.
OR
Buy a 2300 fro $4900, but then need also to buy headers, CAI, and tune, so add another for those mods $2000-2700 (A8 TCM). Puts the total at about $7-8K assuming I install the blower.
The results without any fuel system modifications to the 2300 are about only 30 rwhp more vs. modding the 1.7. I'm not trying to build another 1000hp (850 rwhp) that I can't really drive on street tires. On my C5 I ended up lowering the boost from 18# to 9# for using 91 octane which yielded 600 rwhp and was very streetable with 335 Toyo Proxes.
So as much as I appreciate the efficiency of the 2300, so long as the 1.7 can generate between 650-700 rwhp on E50 mix and not harm anything, I can then add the DeWitts oil coolers and I think it should be able to tackle street, strip, and track, without issues....track being the only event that really exposes the limp mode issue with OEM setups.
Anybody see anything I missed or overlooked?
If $4K doesnt impact your build "budget" then pull trigger. Seems you're looking hard to justify the 2300 swap. You didn't list the function of the vehicle before just WHP. But regardless, if the true end game is 650-700whp as you stated the stock blower is good and a torque beast! Few cooling mods which you'd need with the 2300 anyway w/the A8.
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Shinobi'sZ (12-03-2018)
#20
Drifting
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