New short block for more power!!
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
New short block for more power!!
Hey guys,
im going to build a new short block for more power,
my previous short block was good for 1000hp but the car made 900whp and i started not feeling safe about it, iwanted more and obviously you will never say that enough power lol, you can check some of the races i had in my instagram page
now im looking to build a short block that would be able to take 1300-1400whp on fuel, 1000whp on pump gas,
im buying a new bare block (if you know somewhere or someone that i can buy it from let me know)
wiseco pistons
callies ultra h beam rods
lt4 stock crank shaft(stock stroke=more rpm) or magnum 4” crank shaft
what do you guys think? Should i stick with the stock lt4 crank and put those pistons and ultra rods or should i go to the 4” magnum crank shaft
my car will be always street driven and always street raced (overseas)
im going to build a new short block for more power,
my previous short block was good for 1000hp but the car made 900whp and i started not feeling safe about it, iwanted more and obviously you will never say that enough power lol, you can check some of the races i had in my instagram page
now im looking to build a short block that would be able to take 1300-1400whp on fuel, 1000whp on pump gas,
im buying a new bare block (if you know somewhere or someone that i can buy it from let me know)
wiseco pistons
callies ultra h beam rods
lt4 stock crank shaft(stock stroke=more rpm) or magnum 4” crank shaft
what do you guys think? Should i stick with the stock lt4 crank and put those pistons and ultra rods or should i go to the 4” magnum crank shaft
my car will be always street driven and always street raced (overseas)
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: cookeville tennessee
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ttt
No way I would try to push a stock crank to a true 1400 rwhp do the aftermarket crank. Plus just me but if I was going with your blower I would go big C.I. motor nothing like it in these cars.. Plus will not hurt it as much on the pressure & boost, Plus go with ARP studs on every thing in the motor. Just me but you are talking here big HP and need the c.i. in it also..... Robert
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
No way I would try to push a stock crank to a true 1400 rwhp do the aftermarket crank. Plus just me but if I was going with your blower I would go big C.I. motor nothing like it in these cars.. Plus will not hurt it as much on the pressure & boost, Plus go with ARP studs on every thing in the motor. Just me but you are talking here big HP and need the c.i. in it also..... Robert
#4
Racer
Stock bore/stroke here.
I went with Callies ultra billet crank and rods with diamond pistons. Same combination I've done on my last couple of builds. Hasn't let my down yet. Balanced to less than 1/8th gram and cryogened. Good past 8000 rpm. The heavier crank can handle the more constant load changes that a street car deals with. I have a YSi-V7 and will be able to get everything it puts out eventually....and more importantly with reliability.
I went with Callies ultra billet crank and rods with diamond pistons. Same combination I've done on my last couple of builds. Hasn't let my down yet. Balanced to less than 1/8th gram and cryogened. Good past 8000 rpm. The heavier crank can handle the more constant load changes that a street car deals with. I have a YSi-V7 and will be able to get everything it puts out eventually....and more importantly with reliability.
Last edited by Ghostnotes; 01-30-2019 at 06:52 AM.
#5
I sleeved my block.. going 416 stroker... winberg crank.. Dyer rods.. CP pistons.. and edelbrock heads.. either way the heads are the limiting factor being 4 bolt.. but the edelbrock heads are way thicker.. we will see... running an f1a94 and probably switching to the x.. going single turbo.. or v15z if it ever comes out...
The internals are overkill.. rated at 2500hp.. but that's just my style..
The internals are overkill.. rated at 2500hp.. but that's just my style..
Last edited by acz06; 01-30-2019 at 09:12 AM.
#6
Le Mans Master
I run stock displacement with LT1 crank, wiseco pistons and utra billet rods. Makes 1100 ish on full tilt.
I have a stock LT1 crank in the garage I'll sell it to you for $100 plus shipping
NOBODY to my knowledge has damaged a stock crank in a LT1 or a LT4.
I have a stock LT1 crank in the garage I'll sell it to you for $100 plus shipping
NOBODY to my knowledge has damaged a stock crank in a LT1 or a LT4.
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
thanks for your offer sir! I already have the lt4 crank shaft
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Stock bore/stroke here.
I went with Callies ultra billet crank and rods with diamond pistons. Same combination I've done on my last couple of builds. Hasn't let my down yet. Balanced to less than 1/8th gram and cryogened. Good past 8000 rpm. The heavier crank can handle the more constant load changes that a street car deals with. I have a YSi-V7 and will be able to get everything it puts out eventually....and more importantly with reliability.
I went with Callies ultra billet crank and rods with diamond pistons. Same combination I've done on my last couple of builds. Hasn't let my down yet. Balanced to less than 1/8th gram and cryogened. Good past 8000 rpm. The heavier crank can handle the more constant load changes that a street car deals with. I have a YSi-V7 and will be able to get everything it puts out eventually....and more importantly with reliability.
#9
Racer
It actually runs good, I'm also running a fairly large cam in it. It's not bad below 3000rpm untill the cam kicks in and about 40% throttle. Right now I'm on a stock dia lower and 3.8 upper so I'm not pushing it too hard yet. In fact in 4th it really does not start pulling hard till about 80mph, then you can feel the curve start to change. 1st 2nd are useless. 3rd gear is good rolling into it, then gets loose at about 4500. That all might change a little after I get my throttle closure fixed, I can only get about 62%TB on a 99% pedal request.
Last edited by Ghostnotes; 01-30-2019 at 02:22 PM.
#10
Le Mans Master
I run the 2200X (billet YSI) with the 2.75 upper and it's fine. I do have a 10 rib setup though. Makes ~ 26 psi without the intake.
#11
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
This motor can take it.
It actually runs good, I'm also running a fairly large cam in it. It's not bad below 3000rpm untill the cam kicks in and about 40% throttle. Right now I'm on a stock dia lower and 3.8 upper so I'm not pushing it too hard yet. In fact in 4th it really does not start pulling hard till about 80mph, then you can feel the curve start to change. 1st 2nd are useless. 3rd gear is good rolling into it, then gets loose at about 4500. That all might change a little after I get my throttle closure fixed, I can only get about 62%TB on a 99% pedal request.
It actually runs good, I'm also running a fairly large cam in it. It's not bad below 3000rpm untill the cam kicks in and about 40% throttle. Right now I'm on a stock dia lower and 3.8 upper so I'm not pushing it too hard yet. In fact in 4th it really does not start pulling hard till about 80mph, then you can feel the curve start to change. 1st 2nd are useless. 3rd gear is good rolling into it, then gets loose at about 4500. That all might change a little after I get my throttle closure fixed, I can only get about 62%TB on a 99% pedal request.
i dont mean that the engine cant take the power, i mean you have a good engine why not change the ysi and go for somth Better and bigger, ysi is not good from my experience specially if you have belt slip, that why i hate it, when i had it i used to have a 10 rib pullies and still had a ton of belt slip i think that was because of the bracket design since c7&7 have made 26psi with his ecs kit and i know some of my friends overseas that runs ecs and having no belt slip even though they are on 8 rib
#12
Racer
So far none for me. I have a master machinist/CNC programmer buddy who said he could make some cog belts pullies and use a poly belt. I have no doubt in his abilities but not sure of its a good idea or not yet
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
why go cog if you can do it without it! Put a 10 rib if you have ecs kit and call it a day
#14
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#15
Racer
I think that is why I like the V-7 so much. With my displacement and pulley setup, I have usable power down low and enough torque in traffic that I just have to squeeze the throttle a little bit. Right around 3k the cam starts to wake up, at about 3500 the boost starts building fast. This is if I roll into it of course. As it feels with this setup, I'm just starting to get to where the YSi is really waking up around 4500.
#17
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#18
Le Mans Master
#19
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter