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You know what they are pumping in? The sound from the intake. That won't help you at light load, which is where you would need it most based on your statement about sound deadening.
The Mustang GT has this, too, and it sounds really fake. I yanked it off, and it sounded better without it. I've heard the 911's, and it sounds just as fake.
No thank you to this cornball cr@p. I want to hear the engine, not some simulated engine.
Michael
If you want more intake sound add a Cold Air System with a Low Restriction Air Cleaner! At WOT you can hear that sucking sound clearly in my C7!
In my ProStreet Rod with an 8.2 liter BB, sucking air thru the 14 inch diameter/ 5 inch high K&N makes almost as much noise at WOT as the long tube headers going thru 3 inch pipes and straight thru Borlas exiting just ahead of the rear wheels!
I have a 2014 3LT. All that I could find in the manual is Bose AudioPilot Noise Compensation Technology. Is this the same as the noise cancellation that you are talking about. If not, does the 2014 have this feature or is it only on newer year models?
Good question, and I don't know the answer. However, I was under the impression that this is not the same system as the "noise cancellation" feature currently being advertised by Chevrolet on a pickup truck.
Having just purchased a c7 convertible, i can tell you for sure. it is not an improvement. All it does for me is distort the sound from the radio at various intervals while i am driving. Kind of like loosing the mids in the middle of a song every few minutes.
Going to turn off the audio pilot in the settings and hope that fixes it.
And who thought it was a good idea to put a tiny little 8 inch paper cone woofer in the very back of the car and expect it to be noticed over the 10 inch mid range woofers sitting next to you in the doors? i can unplug my woofer and not notice it when sitting in the drivers seat at all.
GM is big on cool little "do something close to nothing" gee wiz features in their cars. Like the adjustable suspension selector. 5 settings of close to nothing. This is just another one. Any time you read about some awsome sound system in any car, just take a look at the supper cheap crappy paper cone speakers for the truth. Bottom dollar garbage. Looks great in a marketing add but you can only brag about a paper cone speaker system when you are comparing it to a john deer tractor that doesn't have one at all.
shut off the audio pilot. Replace the speakers, buy a JL audio stealth box. And if you are one of the people who bought the LT3 package with the built in woofer, un plug it. All you will get from it is distortion at higher volume settings until it finally does you a favor and blows. Cant hear it anyway. You wont miss it even if you do not replace the other speakers.
That said, it is still a much better system than the one that came in my 2006 viper.
^^^
Vert sound is different and not as much tire/road noise BUT the rear subwoofer was missing from even the highest interior level in my C6 coupe and has been a big help in drowning out tire/road noise in my 2014 3LT and now my 2017 Grand Sport coupes.
I have my system biased to the rear and the only issue was on some of the >1000 songs I have playing in shuffle mode when I start the car (It's seldom off) is some were too boomy. Joss Stone singing "Tears Drops" was a good example. Had to lower the volume but that defeated my noise drowning objective. With the amount of interior noise the objective is NOT getting great music, just which sound you prefer to listen to!
A poster showed the solution and the pic below is what I have set. Three bass volume settings with slight adjustment to balance. When a boomy song comes up I just push the appropriate preset button. About 90% of the time it's set at the base highest level, a bit above middle of the range. You can record and display more options if desired and label the keys to whatever fits!
PS: Two of your other points:
Can't say the MRC provided a "better ride" than my 2017 C7 Z51 without but when set at track it rattles your teeth! With the MRC software update, that comes with the 2019, I now drive in Sport Mode and Weather Mode when below ~45F for the nannie control.
Can't just "swap speakers" with a Bose system they have amps incorporated in each and operate at 2 ohms impedance.
Ford, and some others, are piping engine noise into the cabin. Chevrolet is trying to make a limo out of the Corvette. I see where a minvan now has a built in vaccuum. Maybe we should be trying to get one of those in later year models.
Why, is it slower than any older Corvette that lacked those features? No. So give me nice features and 650hp and a 10-sec quarter mile, I won't complain.
If I want an old POS that's hard to live with and smells bad, I'd buy a '67, they look spectacular! I'd just never want to live with one long term again.
Other notes: The resultant sound waveform might qualify as white noise, but that's not the goal, an INVERTED sound wave is. If, in fact, the Corvette does do cancellation which I'm not 100% sure of!
"Can't say the MRC provided a "better ride" than my 2017 C7 Z51 without but when set at track it rattles your teeth! With the MRC software update, that comes with the 2019, I now drive in Sport Mode and Weather Mode when below ~45F for the nannie control. Can't just "swap speakers" with a Bose system they have amps incorporated in each and operate at 2 ohms impedance."
You have no idea what a track suspension really is until you drive a viper. The corvette in track mode rides like a mini van in comparison. Recently moved to Houston where the roads are not very good. They were beating the tar out of me and my car, which was the biggest reason i traded it in on a corvette. MUCH smoother ride. And road noise? not only can you no longer hear the radio at all below half volume when that beast is rolling, ALL of the bass gets swallowed by the engine. At that point, the radio is just noise. Very difficult to even have a conversation with someone in the passenger seat. Roll into the throttle and the only thing you are going to hear is the engine. I say "roll" because there is no traction control. Floor it and you will be going in circles at 80mph. Hulk Hogans son learned that the hard way when he totaled his viper.
The vette i would not think twice about taking a long trip with. It is a much better driving car for the street. Plenty of bells and whistles too.
This noise cancelling tech is just not needed unless you want the ride to compare to a luxury vehicle. It does not work very well either in my opinion. Maybe it will get better, maybe it wont. Until it does, scrap it and swap out the paper cone speakers with something from the 80s even. Then add a real bass speaker. Coming from the viper, it is already a very quiet car to drive.
Or buy the fat mans corvette. The cadillac cts. But don't try to turn one of the very few american sports cars into a sedan. That is not why people buy them. And i have to say it is nice to be able to floor the car and not end up on the side walk. Idiot proof. Good job.
^^^
Yep, guess there is always something stiffer! Heck my street rod is stiff ever with coilovers and parallel wishbone front suspension IF I have the mechanically adjustable shocks set at max. But if not the front end floats at 100 mph, even with the heavy 502 cid engine!
On the good, 2 mile long road to the highway I live on it's still a better ride (with medium shock settings where I usually drive) than my GS set at Track! However those big Mickey Thompson Tires set at 16 psi help!
Even though I have two large amps, 7 speakers including a large subwoofer in the rear (it's tubbed and the engine set back with no room for a rear seat, so it fills the space) can't hear it unless it's turned way up over the long tube headers with straight through Bola's with 3 inch pipes exiting in front of the rear wheels. Actually it's not that bad if just cruising but without overdrive and the rear end ratio still a lot of internal as well as road noise.
^^^
Vert sound is different and not as much tire/road noise BUT the rear subwoofer was missing from even the highest interior level in my C6 coupe and has been a big help in drowning out tire/road noise in my 2014 3LT and now my 2017 Grand Sport coupes.
I have my system biased to the rear and the only issue was on some of the >1000 songs I have playing in shuffle mode when I start the car (It's seldom off) is some were too boomy. Joss Stone singing "Tears Drops" was a good example. Had to lower the volume but that defeated my noise drowning objective. With the amount of interior noise the objective is NOT getting great music, just which sound you prefer to listen to!
A poster showed the solution and the pic below is what I have set. Three bass volume settings with slight adjustment to balance. When a boomy song comes up I just push the appropriate preset button. About 90% of the time it's set at the base highest level, a bit above middle of the range. You can record and display more options if desired and label the keys to whatever fits!
PS: Two of your other points:
Can't say the MRC provided a "better ride" than my 2017 C7 Z51 without but when set at track it rattles your teeth! With the MRC software update, that comes with the 2019, I now drive in Sport Mode and Weather Mode when below ~45F for the nannie control.
Can't just "swap speakers" with a Bose system they have amps incorporated in each and operate at 2 ohms impedance.
How did you make the short cuts for the tone settings? I've tried reading the manual and can't find the right page with the description on how to do it...even the page number of where to do it would be helpful
How did you make the short cuts for the tone settings? I've tried reading the manual and can't find the right page with the description on how to do it...even the page number of where to do it would be helpful
Thanks in advance!
Hard to do from reading the manual! In fact the fellow who posted it did not emphasize the key thing you need to do, push hard on the screen!
shut off the audio pilot. Replace the speakers, buy a JL audio stealth box. And if you are one of the people who bought the LT3 package with the built in woofer, un plug it. All you will get from it is distortion at higher volume settings until it finally does you a favor and blows. Cant hear it anyway. You wont miss it even if you do not replace the other speakers.
While the stock C7 speakers are crappy (tiny magnets, paper cones, foam surrounds, etc) but the real problem is the processing done by the amp. At lower volumes it artificially boosts the bass and higher volume levels it removes all the low frequency information. Bose does this to keep the stock speakers (so called subwoofer) from distorting and blowing... however I honestly think the factory amp is actually too weak to truly force the woofer into mechanical overload.
Swapping out the speakers will NOT fix this as the problem is within the processing and amplification of the audio signal itself. Even with Audio Pilot off the system "automagically" adjusts the sound. I measured pink noise response using a calibrated microphone, see below...
The blue line is low volume, the red line is high volume. These frequency plots have been normalized based on the high frequency response (right side of the chart) which is not effected by the Bose auto EQ. Since high frequency energy is more easily achieved with smaller speakers (mids and tweeters) Bose doesn't have to remove those sounds to avoid distortion. Given the low rumble of the V8 there is no way the factory system can noise cancel that given how small the amp and subwoofer are in this audio system.
If you really want to fix the C7 audio you need an OEM interface unit which removes the Bose processing, below are three retail units that will accomplish this:
AX-DSP-MOST1
NAV-TV M650-GM
PAC AP4-GM61
Once the signal is cleaned up and not molested by Bose any more you can add any combination of aftermarket amps and speakers you desire. I personally would also recommend a DSP unit to do time alignment and frequency adjustments due to the challenging environment of the vehicle's cabin.
While the stock C7 speakers are crappy (tiny magnets, paper cones, foam surrounds, etc) but the real problem is the processing done by the amp. At lower volumes it artificially boosts the bass and higher volume levels it removes all the low frequency information. Bose does this to keep the stock speakers (so called subwoofer) from distorting and blowing... however I honestly think the factory amp is actually too weak to truly force the woofer into mechanical overload.
Swapping out the speakers will NOT fix this as the problem is within the processing and amplification of the audio signal itself. Even with Audio Pilot off the system "automagically" adjusts the sound. I measured pink noise response using a calibrated microphone, see below...
The blue line is low volume, the red line is high volume. These frequency plots have been normalized based on the high frequency response (right side of the chart) which is not effected by the Bose auto EQ. Since high frequency energy is more easily achieved with smaller speakers (mids and tweeters) Bose doesn't have to remove those sounds to avoid distortion. Given the low rumble of the V8 there is no way the factory system can noise cancel that given how small the amp and subwoofer are in this audio system.
If you really want to fix the C7 audio you need an OEM interface unit which removes the Bose processing, below are three retail units that will accomplish this:
AX-DSP-MOST1
NAV-TV M650-GM
PAC AP4-GM61
Once the signal is cleaned up and not molested by Bose any more you can add any combination of aftermarket amps and speakers you desire. I personally would also recommend a DSP unit to do time alignment and frequency adjustments due to the challenging environment of the vehicle's cabin.
For me and most of my friends, the 2LT/3LT sound system sounds quite good when parked with the engine shut off. Up to about 30-40 mph, it's not bad. Above about 40, the ambient noise makes it sound poor. And above 80, virtually useless. I'd be happy with the current system if they'd cut down the noise. But they're not going to do what either of us wants, and DIY for either method is no simple task.
Agree. It is a sports car. There is going to be engine and road noise. I would also be happy with the stock system if it sounded good driving at speed. About a little over half volume, the lows start to distort. The whole thing sounds like crap by 3/4 volume.
Going to replace the speakers and spend less than 600 bucks,
disconnect the noise cancellation at the amp. Replace the factory sub with a pioneer 8 inch, seal up the port on the box and fill it with fiber fill. On my 14 convertible, the box is actually made of metal. The pioneer sub is a 2ohm, duel voice coil. Will wire it to be 1 ohm as i read the system is actually 1.25 ohms. Replace the back with kenwood or pioneer and haven't decided on the doors yet. will have to pull the panels first to see what kind of room i have. Don't know if 8 inch mids and 3 1'2 full range are the way to go or 6 1/2 components. With tweeters in the dash, don't think components are the way to go. that will put 4 tweeters in the front of the car. leaning towards 8 inch mids and 3 1/2 inch full range. all 2 ohm which will give the sub a power advantage being 1 ohm.
sub comes in today. will let you know if it was worth the 80 bucks or not. No point in adding an amp for an 8 inch. If it doesn't give me what i want, going with a 10 inch enclosure, 115 dollar kicker and a 150 dollar 300 watt amp.
Regardless of the outcome, it WILL be better than the stock paper cones and be plug and play without stuffing a signal processor and an amp or two in the cramped compartment where the stock stuff is. invisible = sell-able. Harder to sell a car that has been "customized." Not going to wire in a signal processor and multi channel amplifier to the back side of the factory signal processor and amplifier. The car depreciates to fast to invest a lot of time and money into.
sub comes in today. will let you know if it was worth the 80 bucks or not. No point in adding an amp for an 8 inch.
I would reconsider that since the factory amp is not only removing the bass as you turn the volume up (which is how the Bose processing works) but is also way under powered for the task of pushing a subwoofer, let alone a decent aftermarket one. Will it sound better? Marginally yeah... but its just a band-aid and still way below its potential. Sealing up the box to extend the sub bass response will help tremendously no doubt. I have no idea what frequency the factory enclosure is tuned at but the bass drops off significantly below 80Hz which way too high.
While the factory speakers are junk they are not the weakest link in this system. The systems response above 1K isn't all the bad, the high frequency roll off is a bit steeper then desired, so replacing the tweeters in the dash would be on my list once the whole amp + factory processing + sub problem was corrected. The factory mids are likely fine if a crossover was optimized for their range at moderate power levels.
The factory sub is also dual voice coil. I wouldn't wire an aftermarket sub down to 1 ohm off the factory amp unless you can confirm it can take the load. Best case the amp shuts down, worse case the amp is blown. I doubt the factory amp has low resistance protection as it was never built to drive anything but the factory speakers. Irregardless since the factory amp is the real problem here completely bypassing it is in your best course of action.
An OEM interface unit can eat up a considerable amount in the overall budget but they are plug-n-play (using T-harnesses), thus you can easily remove them (no cut wires) and recover some of that money when the vehicle is sold. Welcome to the new world of car audio where the most expensive part of your system is an invisible black box without a name brand that is required to just get a clean signal.
very pleased. Went from not even noticing i had a sub to rich, deep bass coming from the back of the car.
i changed the settings from "normal" to "rear". that cut out some of the noise, for lack of a better word, from the door woofers and transferred it to the back of the car to the sub. It also seems to have cut out most of the sound coming from the front dash speaker which actually made it sound like a stereo instead of mono. Now about 70 percent of the sound is coming from the sub and the two rear speakers.
It is not loud or overpowering but it is clear and tight and makes a real difference to the whole sound. To the above poster who said the factory amp drops the lows at higher volumes, not really a problem below 3/4 max volume.
with the cleaner sound now coming from the sub and rear speakers, i have re-evaluated my plan. i think i can get a really good sounding system by just doing the sub and buying a decent set of 5 1/2s for the rear and leave the settings biased to the rear. use the doors for filler.
what i did
cut the wires for the noise cancellation at the plug on the amp.
replaced the sub with a pioneer 8" 2ohm duel voice coil.
closed off the port on the box and stuffed it with fiber fill.
80 bucks for the sub on amazon, 6 bucks for the fiber fill and some duct tape and a rag to close the port.
what i am going to do.
replace the rear speakers with a 2ohm, full range speaker. Probably under 150 bucks. will let you know.
While the stock C7 speakers are crappy (tiny magnets, paper cones, foam surrounds, etc) but the real problem is the processing done by the amp. At lower volumes it artificially boosts the bass and higher volume levels it removes all the low frequency information. Bose does this to keep the stock speakers (so called subwoofer) from distorting and blowing... however I honestly think the factory amp is actually too weak to truly force the woofer into mechanical overload.
Swapping out the speakers will NOT fix this as the problem is within the processing and amplification of the audio signal itself. Even with Audio Pilot off the system "automagically" adjusts the sound. I measured pink noise response using a calibrated microphone, see below...
The blue line is low volume, the red line is high volume. These frequency plots have been normalized based on the high frequency response (right side of the chart) which is not effected by the Bose auto EQ. Since high frequency energy is more easily achieved with smaller speakers (mids and tweeters) Bose doesn't have to remove those sounds to avoid distortion. Given the low rumble of the V8 there is no way the factory system can noise cancel that given how small the amp and subwoofer are in this audio system.
If you really want to fix the C7 audio you need an OEM interface unit which removes the Bose processing, below are three retail units that will accomplish this:
AX-DSP-MOST1
NAV-TV M650-GM
PAC AP4-GM61
Once the signal is cleaned up and not molested by Bose any more you can add any combination of aftermarket amps and speakers you desire. I personally would also recommend a DSP unit to do time alignment and frequency adjustments due to the challenging environment of the vehicle's cabin.
I'd really like to see these graphs WRT equal-loudness contour. Of course it'd make the most sense if adjusted for your average 50 something's hearing as that's who buys vettes...
08-05-2016, 02:06 AM
