Suns_PSD

I see mention of older Vettes being lowered but still using the stock suspension.

How does this work and will this be possible on the C7 as well? I like to lower my sports cars 1/2"-3/4" max as it really does improve the looks and doesn't give me any clearance problems on the streets around here.

Also, does it require an alignment afterwards if done using the OEM components?

For that matter, what sort of alignment specs do the guys that do a few track days here and there run? I ran -2 camber up front and -1.5 camber in the rear of my previous car but I don't know enough about suspension set up to know if that would be a solid recommendation on a Vette.

Thanks.

Glen e

From what I understand the C7 can be lowered about an inch when you take delivery. It involves just turning the bolts on the suspension. Naturally an alignment may be in order for perfect tire wear. You turn the green arrow bolt. Please correct me if I am wrong, (as if that's a problem here...LOL)

gthal

Interested in this myself. I think even a slight 1/2" would be perfect.

I assume the MRC is not affected.

Is this something you can do yourself or do you need to get the dealer to do it?

Glen e

no reason you cant do it....

AverageVetteNut

it looks the same as what we can do in the C5/C6, so yeah, this is definitely something just about anyone can do in their garage.

Just don't freak out if the car is higher when you take it off the jack the car will settle after you drive it around the block or so... then just check it's high enough.

I would take it back to the dealer or your favorite alignment shop afterwards to assure nothing is out of whack but it shouldn't be too different.

SWO99

Specific track alignment for Z51s can be found in the owners manual, along with other track advice (oil, brake fluid, cooling, etc).

$$$frumnuttin'

Most likely will require a 10mm wrench. The part is actually not a bolt, it is a stud with a hex end on it. The threads are there to raise or lower the height, they don't create a fastened joint like a bolt/nut assembly. The opposite end is flat and sits on the control arm and retains the rubber isolators. Many people max out the lowering by eliminating the rubber parts, but the ride suffers terribly if you do...better to go to coilovers. I took these pictures years ago because there is a lot of confusion about the hardware. Hope this helps.

haljensen

If the C7 uses the same setup as the C5 & C6 then you DON'T understand.

The C6 can be lowered with the adjustment bolts on the springs but the amount it can be lowered varies with each car and you need an alignment after changing the height of the suspension. Should not be done by a Dealer monkey at delivery.

Glen e

how courteous...then show me how to do it...here's where it came from:

http://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/t...alkaround.html

Suns_PSD

That clears the confusion up for the front. And lowering the front will just increase negative camber which means it will probably be about right for aggressive driving. Should have no effect on toe. You can just check you new alignment camber w/ a Smart phone app angle finder.

What about the rears? How do you lower the rear end?

Thanks.

$$$frumnuttin'

Not sure if the C7 rear is similar to C5 and C6 (Mike told me he made some changes to the rear control arms), but if it is similar the job is way easier due to a much simpler access. You simply turn a large (M14 I think) bolt. I can't remember exactly but I think you have to hold the nut while turning the bolt....it's been over 10 years since I did mine). Vendors will sell longer bolts to allow lower ride heights...about $20. Do this too: go to the C5 Section of the forum, and enter the DIY sticky area. Pewter99 has done a great job pulling together all the DIY writeups we have done over the years. There is a good entry there with great pictures showing both the front and rear lowering processes. Or, just do a 'search' on lowering and you will have so many threads to read you'll be up all night!

John510

Hopefully it has the same lowering bolts as the previous models then it is a piece of cake. The corvette looks rather odd with the giant wheel gap they gave it. Not sure why the engineers didn't make the fenders and quarter panels a tad bit lower to make the gap less noticeable.

Greg00Coupe

This question was asked of the GM dudes at the Museum in June and their response was same as prior models.

CO Lightfoot

"So simple a geezer can do it one handed while holding an Iphone..."



Related thread: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...-c6-video.html

AORoads

Just a note of caution for those with MRC suspension. Read up in C6 re issues after lowering. The new MRC may not have issues but some that have been lowered have prematurely (per owners) worn out/caused leaks in some shocks. This may not occur to your suspensions in C7s however.

haljensen

?????

"turn a large (M14 I think bolt"?


The rear has exactly the same height adjustment bolts in the same location as the front and the process is the same as the front.

$$$frumnuttin'

I'm talking C5 here...look up the DIY sticky to see it.

gthal

So let me repeat what I "think" the video said and then someone correct me if I'm wrong...

1. Jack up corner of the car using the normal jacking points.
2. Use a second jack to raise the leaf spring and take the load of the spring off the suspension
3. Turn the hex bolt counter clockwise to bring the rubber pad closer to the leaf spring the desired amount

This it? Sounds incredibly simple...

Chicago1

Same as the c5 same as the c6 gm already stated this so where is the confusion? yes you will need an alignment anytime you change the geometry of the suspension you need to get it aligned. Pretty simple. again same as c5/c6

Shaka

A few things. For street use, 1" is not going to affect too much.
If you go racing, even at an inch, the geometry has changed adversely. You have lowered the roll center and the camber gain in roll is reduced. The roll couple has changed also.
The load paths from contact patch to lower control arm hard points has changed because the lower A arm is no longer horizontal. You can have a delayed load transfer from contact patch to chassis which slows turn in.
The motion ratio of the shock is about .8 but you will reduce the travel and the shock will have to be tuned or exchanged. You may alter bump or roll steer because you have moved out of the neutral range at full roll. You alter toe but what will it be at full droop?
Tires vary on how thrust is produced. The camber become more negative which you will have to reduce for street but the gain may be insufficient for high G turns unless you control roll. Looks like the Z51 rolls a lot. Stiiffer roll bars alter spring rates in roll also.
What tires will you run and are you a serious or recreational racer? You may have to experiment with toe settings to begin the load sequence quicker. If you don't know what you are doing, you could chase a lot of shadows that you have created.
The only real way to lower a Vettes is with drop spindles even if it is only and inch, then all analysis is starting with known knowns because GM chassis engineers made it that way.
For bling, the cheap way has been described already.