4- its a direct injection engine so I believe the ticking you hear is the pumps and normal. it is probably amplified in the garage.

 

Doesn't appear to be the case. I actually blew the engine. There's a hole on the passengers side under the header. Can't be seen from above.
Vin#: 06631
Mileage: 2600

Will start a new thread as to not bog this one anymore.

 

Two weeks ago while I was taking the factory tour, I watched a worker aligning the the driver door; it would not shut properly, so he put both hands in the rear top of the door by the door handle and jumped up and down on it multiple times until it would close. I wondered at the time what that was doing to the fiberglass. I saw similar "manipulation" of the right front fender. I think there are "fitment problems" going on there.

 

So this has happened twice now and I am wondering if anyone else has experienced this.

My VIN is 16830

I have a NON Z51 with automatic transmission and the NPP exhaust with 2100 miles. In Sport mode both times on dry, smooth pavement.

From a full stop gave it gas intending to utilize the amazing power and speed of my new baby. The acceleration began smoothly at first but then became extremely jerky ... Not even like it was shifting through the gears as the jerks were much to close together and quite violent.

I took my foot off the gas but the engine continued to remain at high revs and accelerate like my foot was still on the gas. I tried applying the brakes and the engine was still revving so I had to apply more pressure to the brakes to try and slow down. I almost ran into the back of the car at the next lights because the engine didn't want to down shift.

I obviously need to take her in ...

Any others experience this?

 

Appointment booked for Saturday at Suburban Chev in Eden Prairie, MN ...let's see if they can fix my baby.

 

THAT is scary! WTF?

Occasionally I notice when the engine is cold and I start it up, sometimes the engine picks up RPMs by itself for a few seconds. I have a 7-speed, so I keep the clutch in while it's doing that so I don't hit a parked car.

But I haven't had the bucking issue you're talking about. It sounds like you have either a bad throttle position sensor (or related issue), or you may have had a stuck throttle body or hall effect sensor.

 

So two issues.

My memory seat does not work when I press and hold the "1" option. I have to move the seat by pressing it forward or backward a little bit before it will work. Without doing that... it jerks forward like it WANTS to go into the "1" spot but something is blocking it. This "block" is released by me moving the seat. I took it to the dealer and they updated my software but the issue still exists.

Next issue I heard a go-kart noise while in eco-mode. They found that the "belt tensioner" was leaking and replaced it. Now it has this really throaty noise in place of the go-kart noise. It only happens when I accelerate while around 40-50 mph.... is this normal? Like while I am cruising, if I give it some gas, sometimes I hear this really throaty noise. Was my belt tensioner fixed? or was it botched? I have no idea.

 

I would not accept a repair of that crack. This defect warrants a new door. And hopefully, it will come painted from the factory.

Three years and one month from now, that crack could open up, particularly if it is not repaired from the inside out. Then, where would you be? And - what caused the crack to begin with?

Stop-drilling and filling the cracks is not a responsible repair. It needs to be backed up with fiberglass from the backside to be a more or less permanent repair. But it will never be the same as new. It was a brand new car that you paid for, right?

FYI, on my Stingray, every body panel is misaligned, and the gaps are irregular and skewed. I suspect it is because one of the two first panels put in place (the rocker panels) is misaligned. I doubt that the body panels will ever fit correctly.

I have asked for a factory engineer to look at this problem. Moving the rear quarter panels requires slits to be cut through the rear tub to cut the adhesive that holds the rear quarter panels in place, to align them. There is a tape line where paint has seeped underneath on the hatch - it's been repainted. The doors and front fenders are misaligned - the lower gap is larger than the upper gap at the front door edge. The hood is also misaligned. Who knows what they will try to see this car aligned, and can it ever be aligned properly?

I hope I don't have to use the lemon law to get another Stingray.

FYI, shortly after I accepted delivery of my (second) Stingray, I received a brochure in the mail which states that the body seams are gapped at 3 mm. My first car had no such issues, nothing at all that called my attention to the fit of the body panels.

Here's a quote from the brochure that GM sent to me after I took delivery: "OUR GOAL WITH ENGINEERING THIS CAR comes down to one word. Precision. For example, we got the gaps between moving body panels down to three millimeters - as good as you'll see on any car in the world". 3mm is about 1/8" The problem is not so much the 3mm gap, but irregular gaps throughout. As if the frame was bent or twisted slightly (but how could it be?).

Other aggravating issues are: the heads up display is aimed too low to be useful, the oil pressure rises after upshifting to the next gear at times before the engine isd fully warmed up, the Nav system is primitive and lacks many features that I have become accustomed to with my (portable) Garmin GPS's, the memory seats need reprogramming, and very occasional other electronic "gremlins".

Other than that, this is the most enjoyable car to be in and drive that I have ever owned. I hope it doesn't turn out to be a most aggravating long-term headache.

 

VIN# 8762
Mileage 850

My Nav/Stereo display when trying to put it back up gets stuck about 1/3 up as if something is blocking it. I have to pull very gently to get it past that point and it goes up the rest of the way fine. I noticed it when I picked the car up but at the time it only "stuttered", then about 4 days later this started. I am waiting for next oil change and/or any other issues that need to be resolved before I bring it in.

 

The seat issue is caused by the seat being back too far against the limiter switch. To remedy, set the seat all the way back. then move forward slightly. Now set the easy exit button on your door panel (Last button to right). Next time your exit the vehicle it should only go as far back as this setting. Now the #1 button should function normally.

The throaty noise you are describing sounds like the NPP exhaust. If you have the feature, then that is a normal sound if the exhaust is open.

 

Have you tried adjusting the height of the HUD? There is a switch to the left of the steering wheel to control height and brightness.

 

Of course.

I read the directions when something doesn't work properly, and usually, long before that. It usually saves me a lot of time that way.

When I try to adjust the HUD upward, the top portion cuts off below my line of sight. It sits right above the top edge of the dash panel visor, just above the left center hood line. That's way too low to read properly when looking forward out of the windshield. If I were a very short person, like five feet tall, it might be positioned properly. I'm six feet. It's very clearly improperly positioned.

 

Hey DadzC6,

I’m sorry to hear that your nav display is not working as desired. Let us know how your visit at the dealership goes, and if you have any further questions on this. We will keep an eye out for your update!

Jennie R.
Chevrolet Customer Care

 

Customer service, please respond.

 

cbranch27,

My deepest apologies to read about your concerns. When you're able, please message me privately so we can discuss the matter further. I look forward to hearing from you.

William R.
Chevrolet Customer Care

 

Lost a rocker arm on cylinder #7 6/4/2014 at less than 2 months old and 2064 miles. Hope it's not a trend and I certainly did not want this to be my first post. Not sure if there's any other damage. I'll update when the dealer completes the repair.

VIN# 9464 Both pushrods and rocker arms replaced on cylinder #7. The mechanic said it was a pushrod failure due to metallurgical issues or the the rocker arm was not torqued to spec at the factory, which he doubted. At any rate, I'm back on the road on 6/6/2014 two days after the failure. Kudos to the dealer and Chevrolet for a quick turn around.

Great forum and lots of good info!

 

My local body shop has already weighed in and said they may have to replace the door. Unfortunately, it does not come painted from the factory and if it needs to be replaced, it would have to be painted locally.

I wonder though, let's say the dealer had noticed the crack and repaired it before the car ever went on the showroom floor? What if they had just sanded down the crack, filled it with resin, then sanded and repainted. How would anyone ever know? As you pointed out, if the crack were to ever open again, chances are it would happen long after the warrantee period expired.



These cars are made of fiberglass, which is a delicate material to start with. I wonder how many minor repairs of this type occur before a potential customer lays down their money for that shiny Stingray sitting under the bright lights of the dealer's showroom?

 

I picked up my convertible from the museum on 5/28. The very next day when my wife opened the passenger door I heard a POP. I remember thinking that doesn't sound good but wasn't sure what happened.

Later that day while going over the car I observed a area of paint chipped out at the edge of the door at the front panel. I noticed that the lines of the car between the door and the front panel were off noticeably and the door panel sticks out further than the quarter panel. When I opened the door the 2 drug across each other causing the popping noise I heard before.

My dealership was able to improve on the alignment of the panel somewhat but it's still out of alignment. I have been told that the door will need to be repainted.

The dealership is not sure how to get the panels to line up correctly. They have contacted GM and I have made contact with Chevy customer service 5 days ago and still no answer. I did the buyers tour along with the photo album and museum delivery and feel disappointment for not being gotten back to sooner especially since this happened the day after I got the car.

I feel that a new door panel and a quality assurance person to make sure it's corrected is fair since the dealership is only about 120 miles from Bowling Green. Any suggestions on how to move this process along ?

 

There is a law in Ga that if a dealer has to do body work to a new car they have to show the work to the new owner. I think there is a $500 dollar threshold.

 

I did not go to the Museum, but had the same exact experience you described below, passenger door and chip as well. My car was picked up at the dealer first week of April. I have read other forum members having this same exact issue dating back to late last year.

It is shocking to me that this problem has occurred over and over, to brand new owners and yet Bowling Green is not on top of this, even 6 months later? It's sad that some of us are chipping paint on a brand new vehicle that we paid a pretty $ for as a result of a known problem See PI1220 issued by GM to dealers to resolve poor door alignment and possible rubbing.

Customer Service on this forum, perhaps you CAN ESCALATE THIS TO BOWLING GREEN! I understand that issues can arise...but this has been going on long enough for a better resolution than allowing these cars off the line and having customers chip brand new doors, that then need to be repainted! ( I chose to have the dealer realign the fender to stop the rubbing and then had chip touched up, rather than painting the whole door and risking color match issues...