How to lower the C7?
12-04-2013, 03:33 PM
#21
Instructor
Thread Starter
I was able to get it done, watched the two C6 videos and it went the same as in those. The front dropped 1" and the rear 3/4" by running the bolts all the way up. I will go back and raise the front 1/4" to keep the same drop all the way around.
I asked my dealer about doing this and they said that the car was in spec compared to the museum cars? So I had to do it myself. Looks much better!
I asked my dealer about doing this and they said that the car was in spec compared to the museum cars? So I had to do it myself. Looks much better!
12-04-2013, 03:54 PM
#22
Race Director
I was able to get it done, watched the two C6 videos and it went the same as in those. The front dropped 1" and the rear 3/4" by running the bolts all the way up. I will go back and raise the front 1/4" to keep the same drop all the way around.
I asked my dealer about doing this and they said that the car was in spec compared to the museum cars? So I had to do it myself. Looks much better!
I asked my dealer about doing this and they said that the car was in spec compared to the museum cars? So I had to do it myself. Looks much better!
12-04-2013, 04:04 PM
#23
Advanced
[QUOTE=VThokies;1585592773]I was able to get it done, watched the two C6 videos and it went the same as in those. The front dropped 1" and the rear 3/4" by running the bolts all the way up. I will go back and raise the front 1/4" to keep the same drop all the way around.
Thanks for clarifying that the rear adjusting bolts are turned in the same direction as the fronts in order to lower the rear. That will keep me from doing it twice as I was going to follow the advice of a poster on another thread that said to turn them in the opposite direction.
Thanks for clarifying that the rear adjusting bolts are turned in the same direction as the fronts in order to lower the rear. That will keep me from doing it twice as I was going to follow the advice of a poster on another thread that said to turn them in the opposite direction.
01-19-2014, 04:13 PM
#24
Me to the service manager (after I watched the car being off loaded and before PDI): "Before I pick the car up can you please lower it 3/4" using the stock bolts?"
Service manager: "I've never heard of that"
Me: "oh.... ok, never mind, I'll do it myself."
The dealership owner was there and said: "would you like to use our lift." I think he felt bad that his guy didn't know what I was talking about.... That was nice but I declined....
Last edited by TX Navy Vet; 01-19-2014 at 04:16 PM.
02-17-2014, 09:21 PM
#26
Lower using stock bolts yourself. (the local Corvette specialty shop wanted $350 to do it... what a freakin' crook) Very easy. I did it myself in less than 1 hour. (less than 10 minutes if you have a lift)
and....
after a couple of weeks it will settle down.
I only used the "height adjustment bolts" (factory lowering bolts)
and drove it a couple of weeks and I am very happy with how low it is.
So far it seems to not need any type of alignment. Running straight as an arrow.
Last edited by TX Navy Vet; 02-17-2014 at 09:24 PM.
12-10-2014, 08:00 PM
#27
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Member Since: Aug 2013
Location: Burbank CA
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Here you see the legal side in action. The dealer will not deviate from spec., fear of lawsuit if vehicle is involved in accident. The lowering bolts (actually adjusting) are for adjusting the suspension to compensate for suspension irregularies. The above quote references the front dropped more than rear. If you must adjust, remember to keep everything uniform as mentioned in referenced post. Another post references handling charistics when lowering to adjust for oversteer and understeer, be safe.
12-10-2014, 08:43 PM
#28
Instructor
For those that have done this on their own, can you provide some basic instructions on lowering with the factory bolts?
I tried adjusting mine last night. Pulled the front wheels off and could get to the head of the 10mm adjusting bolt, but it would only turn about half a turn before getting real tight. The wrench did not feel like it had a very good fit on the bolt, so I was concerned about bearing down on it until I learned a little more here first. Should the car be jacked up or sitting on the suspension? Or does it matter?
Any insight would be appreciated, Thanks.
I tried adjusting mine last night. Pulled the front wheels off and could get to the head of the 10mm adjusting bolt, but it would only turn about half a turn before getting real tight. The wrench did not feel like it had a very good fit on the bolt, so I was concerned about bearing down on it until I learned a little more here first. Should the car be jacked up or sitting on the suspension? Or does it matter?
Any insight would be appreciated, Thanks.
i would leave the car the way it came from the factory.....
I'm sorry i did it .....
why mess with a $65,000 car out of the factory......
12-10-2014, 08:50 PM
#29
Race Director
Member Since: Sep 2013
Location: Ft Lauderdale
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Tech Contributor
I lowered it all the way the first day i got home, never scraped and rides fine, tires at 5000 were wearing perfect, no alignment done.
See the tech section stickies for how to do it.
See the tech section stickies for how to do it.
12-11-2014, 12:59 AM
#30
Here you see the legal side in action. The dealer will not deviate from spec., fear of lawsuit if vehicle is involved in accident. The lowering bolts (actually adjusting) are for adjusting the suspension to compensate for suspension irregularies. The above quote references the front dropped more than rear. If you must adjust, remember to keep everything uniform as mentioned in referenced post. Another post references handling charistics when lowering to adjust for oversteer and understeer, be safe.
Wow..... Do you still have the paper mats on the floor board too? One thing.. You would be the perfect person to buy from.. Cause the car will still be exactly as the owners manual states.. And I'm guessing was/will never be over posted speeds too...