What good is owning a C7 Corvette
09-12-2014, 04:28 PM
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
What good is owning a C7 Corvette
z51vett
Doug
Doug
Last edited by z51vett; 09-12-2014 at 11:49 PM.
09-12-2014, 04:52 PM
#2
Safety Car
you bought a high performance sports car and expected to be able to do the thigns they show in their commericals and magazine articles and all the web geeks write about? no no no thats not how it works. just drive the speed limit , 50% throttle, these cars are for looking not going.
yeah come on GM this is pretty damn rediculos. well, what are we up to now anyway 3 billion cars recalled this year?
yeah come on GM this is pretty damn rediculos. well, what are we up to now anyway 3 billion cars recalled this year?
09-12-2014, 04:58 PM
#3
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Cruise-In 8 & 10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '08, '15
Yup, I'm seriously considering cancelling my order. After my experience with the dealer and the whole engine fiasco, it's not looking good for the car.
09-12-2014, 05:01 PM
#4
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St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
They're dying? At a rate above, at, or below any other performance car? Oh, you have no clue of the answer to that? Where has GM said we can't race them?
2 engines are damaged, on a track, by test drivers who don't own or care about the cars, out of 38,000 C7s, and that's enough to rant about? Are you serious?
The OMG THE SKY IS FALLING!!! rhetoric in this forum is far, FAR worse than I ever saw it in the C6 forum when I owned my C6. I might have to spend more time there for some sanity.
I'm not a GM or Chevy guy, and haven't owned a GM vehicle for decades except for Vettes, so I'm no apologist for them. I will, however, continue to drive and enjoy my C7 without worrying about what might happen at some point in the future. The vast majority of 38,000 C7s are doing just fine. That's called perspective, which some people really need to get a heavy dose of.
The OMG THE SKY IS FALLING!!! rhetoric in this forum is far, FAR worse than I ever saw it in the C6 forum when I owned my C6. I might have to spend more time there for some sanity.
I'm not a GM or Chevy guy, and haven't owned a GM vehicle for decades except for Vettes, so I'm no apologist for them. I will, however, continue to drive and enjoy my C7 without worrying about what might happen at some point in the future. The vast majority of 38,000 C7s are doing just fine. That's called perspective, which some people really need to get a heavy dose of.
Last edited by Steve_R; 09-12-2014 at 05:03 PM.
09-12-2014, 05:02 PM
#5
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13, '16-'17-'18
Good Lord.....
What? Fewer than what? A dozen engines out of 35,000 have been reported to have problems? That's like less than .04%?
Christ, get a grip...
What? Fewer than what? A dozen engines out of 35,000 have been reported to have problems? That's like less than .04%?
Christ, get a grip...
Last edited by KenHorse; 09-12-2014 at 05:15 PM.
09-12-2014, 05:07 PM
#6
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St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
Spot on Ken. Way too many teenage girl drama queens on this forum.
09-12-2014, 05:10 PM
#7
Moderator
OK, let's refrain from name calling.
09-12-2014, 05:13 PM
#8
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The issue is not the failure rate but how it appears the manufacturer may deny warranty coverage on failures that happen when the owner is driving on a track. Considering the manner in which these cars are marketed, this would be deceitful at best. Driving these cars in the fashion demonstrated by their advertising on public streets would be criminal so what's the point of building something with this performance capability that can't be driven either legally or without substantial financial risk to the owner?
09-12-2014, 05:17 PM
#9
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13, '16-'17-'18
The issue is not the failure rate but how it appears the manufacturer may deny warranty coverage on failures that happen when the owner is driving on a track. Considering the manner in which these cars are marketed, this would be deceitful at best. Driving these cars in the fashion demonstrated by their advertising on public streets would be criminal so what's the point of building something with this performance capability that can't be driven either legally or without substantial financial risk to the owner?
09-12-2014, 05:19 PM
#10
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St. Jude Donor '08, '15
Perhaps the bigger issue is a bunch of fanboys making excuses about issues you rarely see with other brands in the same price point.
09-12-2014, 05:20 PM
#11
09-12-2014, 05:23 PM
#12
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09, '14-'15-'16-'17-'18
All due respect to C7 owners everywhere, but in regards to the question of GM denying the claim put forth by member snip444; is that not something to be worried about? Even if his was the only blown engine out there, the fact is that GM denied his warranty claim when he was just doing 98 mph at a HPDE course seems to be cause for concern.
I am not bashing the C7. I think it's a sharp car and hope to own one some day. My concern is with GM leaving snip444 high and dry when all he was doing was driving his car in a manner consistent with the image Chevrolet has promoted since forever. Will it really only back up its product if only driven at or below legal freeway speeds?
I am not bashing the C7. I think it's a sharp car and hope to own one some day. My concern is with GM leaving snip444 high and dry when all he was doing was driving his car in a manner consistent with the image Chevrolet has promoted since forever. Will it really only back up its product if only driven at or below legal freeway speeds?
09-12-2014, 05:23 PM
#13
Safety Car
2 engines are damaged, on a track, by test drivers who don't own or care about the cars, out of 38,000 C7s, and that's enough to rant about? Are you serious?
The OMG THE SKY IS FALLING!!! rhetoric in this forum is far, FAR worse than I ever saw it in the C6 forum when I owned my C6. I might have to spend more time there for some sanity.
I'm not a GM or Chevy guy, and haven't owned a GM vehicle for decades except for Vettes, so I'm no apologist for them. I will, however, continue to drive and enjoy my C7 without worrying about what might happen at some point in the future. The vast majority of 38,000 C7s are doing just fine. That's called perspective, which some people really need to get a heavy dose of.
Those that feel otherwise or are uncomfortably paranoid should just sell their cars...Put yourselves (and us here on the forum) out of your misery..
09-12-2014, 05:26 PM
#14
Pro
I know I am basically an honest man, but if I had blown my engine on a race track, I would first have it towed at my expense to a nearby gas station.
Then I would call for a dealer tow truck after cleaning all numbers and signs of being raced at a track.
As far as the dealer, it just blew while pulling away from a light. Telling them you raced it is automaticly voiding warranty coverage. Even if the computer says you were doing 180 mph, they have to fix it.
I know that is not the truth, but if they cover race events, where do they put their foot down. Limit you to 3 tranies, 2 engines, and a rear end or two.
Yes I agree the engine should not have blown, but these things happen even to the exotics.
Then I would call for a dealer tow truck after cleaning all numbers and signs of being raced at a track.
As far as the dealer, it just blew while pulling away from a light. Telling them you raced it is automaticly voiding warranty coverage. Even if the computer says you were doing 180 mph, they have to fix it.
I know that is not the truth, but if they cover race events, where do they put their foot down. Limit you to 3 tranies, 2 engines, and a rear end or two.
Yes I agree the engine should not have blown, but these things happen even to the exotics.
09-12-2014, 05:29 PM
#15
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St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
At least from what I've seen and read, there are a handful of engine failures on C7s that amount to less than one tenth of one percent of the 2014 C7s produced, and in all cases save one GM has covered it under warranty.
The C7 is a mass produced car that costs about what many new SUVs and pickups cost. It's not a handbuilt or exotic car, thus the price. Anything manufactured in large numbers WILL have some problems and failures. I don't consider <0.1% excessive, nor is it something I will worry about or lose sleep over.
In fact, I'm leaving the office in a little bit, will put the top down on my C7, drive home, pick up the wife and go for a nice top-down drive on a twisty mountain road and enjoy my C7. That, to answer the OP's question, is one very good reason to own a C7.
09-12-2014, 05:30 PM
#16
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13, '16-'17-'18
There is one - ONE - thread here alleging a failure that GM either hasn't or won't cover under warranty. That in itself says something about that one case. After 18 or whatever pages there are in that thread there is still a lot of unanswered questions and missing information.
At least from what I've seen and read, there are a handful of engine failures on C7s that amount to less than one tenth of one percent of the 2014 C7s produced, and in all cases save one GM has covered it under warranty.
The C7 is a mass produced car that costs about what many new SUVs and pickups cost. It's not a handbuilt or exotic car, thus the price. Anything manufactured in large numbers WILL have some problems and failures. I don't consider <0.1% excessive, nor is it something I will worry about or lose sleep over.
In fact, I'm leaving the office in a little bit, will put the top down on my C7, drive home, pick up the wife and go for a nice top-down drive on a twisty mountain road and enjoy my C7. That, to answer the OP's question, is one very good reason to own a C7.
At least from what I've seen and read, there are a handful of engine failures on C7s that amount to less than one tenth of one percent of the 2014 C7s produced, and in all cases save one GM has covered it under warranty.
The C7 is a mass produced car that costs about what many new SUVs and pickups cost. It's not a handbuilt or exotic car, thus the price. Anything manufactured in large numbers WILL have some problems and failures. I don't consider <0.1% excessive, nor is it something I will worry about or lose sleep over.
In fact, I'm leaving the office in a little bit, will put the top down on my C7, drive home, pick up the wife and go for a nice top-down drive on a twisty mountain road and enjoy my C7. That, to answer the OP's question, is one very good reason to own a C7.
Right on...and on all points
09-12-2014, 05:40 PM
#17
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
From what I have read from the OP of that other thread, there is no complete or full denial of a claim by GM. Yet. Therefore, it is too early to say what GM will do with this situation. There may be more information to get/gather---we don't know. Let's hold off on saying what will happen on the OP's car problems until we hear something more about the outcome.
09-12-2014, 05:41 PM
#18
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Tech Contributor
Forget it Steve, you are pushing spaghetti uphill, many here want to believe the worst, it's the way this forum works currently. Seems Porsche warranty is about the same:
http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum...-your-car.html
A good friend is still a Regional Mgr for PCNA, I asked him:
His answer : "track- no warranty"
http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum...-your-car.html
A good friend is still a Regional Mgr for PCNA, I asked him:
His answer : "track- no warranty"
Last edited by Glen e; 09-12-2014 at 05:49 PM.
09-12-2014, 05:42 PM
#19
Melting Slicks
http://www.caranddriver.com/news/evo...tions-car-news
This is nothing new, the EVO was heavily promoted as a track day/autocross monster. Just dont expect Mitsubishi to pay for it if you blow it up
Its realty pretty simple, if you want to be 100% sure GM will fix your car under warranty then dont mod the engine or race it at a track. That will mean 95% or more of Corvette owners will be covered, the rest are taking a chance..
If you must track your car, take on an on track policy, doesnt cost that much. Or go to a school that lets you drive their Corvette. I highly doubt a stock car will have any issues on a dragstrip a few times, if it does its probably not a good idea to get towed from the track to the dealer.
This is nothing new, the EVO was heavily promoted as a track day/autocross monster. Just dont expect Mitsubishi to pay for it if you blow it up
Its realty pretty simple, if you want to be 100% sure GM will fix your car under warranty then dont mod the engine or race it at a track. That will mean 95% or more of Corvette owners will be covered, the rest are taking a chance..
If you must track your car, take on an on track policy, doesnt cost that much. Or go to a school that lets you drive their Corvette. I highly doubt a stock car will have any issues on a dragstrip a few times, if it does its probably not a good idea to get towed from the track to the dealer.
09-12-2014, 05:49 PM
#20
Moderator
There are steps outlined in the Owners Manual that are REQUIRED when you take the car to a track or competitive driving:
Clearly, the poster with the denied warranty claim did NOT follow these procedures. I don't know if this is why the claimed was denied, but it certainly is a possibility.
Track Events and
Competitive Driving
Participating in track events or other
competitive driving without following
the instructions provided may affect
the vehicle warranty. See the
warranty manual before using the
vehicle for racing or other
competitive driving.
Refer to Competitive Driving Mode
on page 9-42.
Be sure to follow all service
procedures before driving the
vehicle at track events or
competitively.
{Caution
If the vehicle is used for track
events and competitive driving,
the engine may use more oil than
it would with normal use. Low oil
levels can damage the engine.
Check the oil level often and at
the proper level. See Engine Oil
on page 10-10.
Additional oil fill above the upper
mark on the dipstick is not
recommended for track events or
other competitive driving.
Because engine oil temperatures
will be higher, it is necessary to use
a higher viscosity engine oil for
racing or other competitive driving.
See Recommended Fluids and
Lubricants on page 11-12.
9-6 Driving and Operating
{Caution
Not changing the engine oil to
15W-50 may cause engine
damage. Engine oil must be
changed to 15W-50 synthetic.
See Capacities and Specifications
on page 12-2.
Z51 Only: Check the oil level often
during racing or other competitive
driving and keep the level at or near
the upper mark that shows the
proper operating range on the
engine oil dipstick.
Except Z51: Check the oil level
often during racing or other
competitive driving and keep the
level at or near the upper mark that
shows the proper operating range
on the engine oil dipstick. After the
competitive driving, remove excess
oil so that the level on the dipstick is
not above the upper mark that
shows the proper operating range.
Replace existing brake fluid with a
qualified high performance brake
fluid from a sealed container. Brake
fluid with a dry boiling point >279 °C
(534 °F) is qualified. If high
performance brake fluid is used,
replace it with GM approved brake
fluid before driving on public roads.
If high performance brake fluid is in
the vehicle and the age of the brake
fluid is over a month old or
unknown, replace the brake fluid
before track events and competitive
driving. Do not use silicone or
DOT-5 brake fluids.
Z51 Only: Limit vehicle load to the
driver only, with no other cargo;
inflate tires to 180 kPa (26 psi); and
drive at a maximum speed of
280 km/h (174 mph).
If equipped with the Z51 package,
the racing and competitive driving
wheel alignment settings should be
set as follows:
{Caution
Using these wheel alignment
settings may cause excessive tire
wear. Only use these wheel
alignment settings for racing or
competitive driving. Excessive tire
wear is not covered under the
vehicle warranty.
Alignment should only be done by
adjusting the lower control arm cam
bolts and not by removing the
washers between the upper control
arms and frame.
FRONT (per corner)
. Caster: +7.0 degrees
. Camber: -2.0 degrees
. Toe: 0.05 degrees toe in
REAR (per corner)
. Caster: 0 degrees
. Camber: -1.7 degrees
. Toe: 0.05 degrees toe in
Thrust Angle: 0 degrees
Because the fluid temperatures may
be higher, it is necessary to change
the rear axle fluid every 24 hours of
track events or competitive driving.
See Recommended Fluids and
Lubricants on page 11-12 for what
fluid to use.
{Caution
During a first time track or racing
event, high rear axle
temperatures can occur. Damage
could be caused to the rear axle
and would not be covered by the
vehicle warranty.
Do not drive as long or as fast the
first time the vehicle is driven on
the track or raced.
If reduced performance is
experienced during track events or
competitive driving, turning off the
A/C will help to improve engine
performance.
Maintain a mixture of 40%
DEX-COOL coolant and 60% clean,
drinkable water to optimize engine
performance.
The front license bracket or aero
panel should be removed for track
events and competitive driving to
improve engine performance.
Rotor Cooling Ring
{Caution
Do not leave rotor cooling rings
installed after a track event, as
this can cause corrosion with
long-term use. Rotor cooling rings
are for race track use only. Race
track driving without the rotor
cooling rings may result in brake
pedal fade.
Installation:
1. Remove the front wheels.
2. Remove the caliper from the
knuckle.
3. Remove the brake rotors.
4. Cut three 150 mm (6 in) lengths
of safety wire specified to T304
Stainless Steel, 0.041 in nominal
diameter, not included.
5. Form each into a U shape with a
20 mm (0.75 in) flat area in the
center of the wire.
6. Place the rotor ring in the gap
between the rotor brake plate
and rotor hat, with the holes on
each side of the rotor spoke on
the outboard side of the rotor.
REAR (per corner)
. Caster: 0 degrees
. Camber: -1.7 degrees
. Toe: 0.05 degrees toe in
Thrust Angle: 0 degrees
Because the fluid temperatures may
be higher, it is necessary to change
the rear axle fluid every 24 hours of
track events or competitive driving.
See Recommended Fluids and
Lubricants on page 11-12 for what
fluid to use.
{Caution
During a first time track or racing
event, high rear axle
temperatures can occur. Damage
could be caused to the rear axle
and would not be covered by the
vehicle warranty.
Do not drive as long or as fast the
first time the vehicle is driven on
the track or raced.
If reduced performance is
experienced during track events or
competitive driving, turning off the
A/C will help to improve engine
performance.
Maintain a mixture of 40%
DEX-COOL coolant and 60% clean,
drinkable water to optimize engine
performance.
The front license bracket or aero
panel should be removed for track
events and competitive driving to
improve engine performance.
Rotor Cooling Ring
{Caution
Do not leave rotor cooling rings
installed after a track event, as
this can cause corrosion with
long-term use. Rotor cooling rings
are for race track use only. Race
track driving without the rotor
cooling rings may result in brake
pedal fade.
Installation:
1. Remove the front wheels.
2. Remove the caliper from the
knuckle.
3. Remove the brake rotors.
4. Cut three 150 mm (6 in) lengths
of safety wire specified to T304
Stainless Steel, 0.041 in nominal
diameter, not included.
5. Form each into a U shape with a
20 mm (0.75 in) flat area in the
center of the wire.
6. Place the rotor ring in the gap
between the rotor brake plate
and rotor hat, with the holes on
each side of the rotor spoke on
the outboard side of the rotor.
Competitive Driving
Participating in track events or other
competitive driving without following
the instructions provided may affect
the vehicle warranty. See the
warranty manual before using the
vehicle for racing or other
competitive driving.
Refer to Competitive Driving Mode
on page 9-42.
Be sure to follow all service
procedures before driving the
vehicle at track events or
competitively.
{Caution
If the vehicle is used for track
events and competitive driving,
the engine may use more oil than
it would with normal use. Low oil
levels can damage the engine.
Check the oil level often and at
the proper level. See Engine Oil
on page 10-10.
Additional oil fill above the upper
mark on the dipstick is not
recommended for track events or
other competitive driving.
Because engine oil temperatures
will be higher, it is necessary to use
a higher viscosity engine oil for
racing or other competitive driving.
See Recommended Fluids and
Lubricants on page 11-12.
9-6 Driving and Operating
{Caution
Not changing the engine oil to
15W-50 may cause engine
damage. Engine oil must be
changed to 15W-50 synthetic.
See Capacities and Specifications
on page 12-2.
Z51 Only: Check the oil level often
during racing or other competitive
driving and keep the level at or near
the upper mark that shows the
proper operating range on the
engine oil dipstick.
Except Z51: Check the oil level
often during racing or other
competitive driving and keep the
level at or near the upper mark that
shows the proper operating range
on the engine oil dipstick. After the
competitive driving, remove excess
oil so that the level on the dipstick is
not above the upper mark that
shows the proper operating range.
Replace existing brake fluid with a
qualified high performance brake
fluid from a sealed container. Brake
fluid with a dry boiling point >279 °C
(534 °F) is qualified. If high
performance brake fluid is used,
replace it with GM approved brake
fluid before driving on public roads.
If high performance brake fluid is in
the vehicle and the age of the brake
fluid is over a month old or
unknown, replace the brake fluid
before track events and competitive
driving. Do not use silicone or
DOT-5 brake fluids.
Z51 Only: Limit vehicle load to the
driver only, with no other cargo;
inflate tires to 180 kPa (26 psi); and
drive at a maximum speed of
280 km/h (174 mph).
If equipped with the Z51 package,
the racing and competitive driving
wheel alignment settings should be
set as follows:
{Caution
Using these wheel alignment
settings may cause excessive tire
wear. Only use these wheel
alignment settings for racing or
competitive driving. Excessive tire
wear is not covered under the
vehicle warranty.
Alignment should only be done by
adjusting the lower control arm cam
bolts and not by removing the
washers between the upper control
arms and frame.
FRONT (per corner)
. Caster: +7.0 degrees
. Camber: -2.0 degrees
. Toe: 0.05 degrees toe in
REAR (per corner)
. Caster: 0 degrees
. Camber: -1.7 degrees
. Toe: 0.05 degrees toe in
Thrust Angle: 0 degrees
Because the fluid temperatures may
be higher, it is necessary to change
the rear axle fluid every 24 hours of
track events or competitive driving.
See Recommended Fluids and
Lubricants on page 11-12 for what
fluid to use.
{Caution
During a first time track or racing
event, high rear axle
temperatures can occur. Damage
could be caused to the rear axle
and would not be covered by the
vehicle warranty.
Do not drive as long or as fast the
first time the vehicle is driven on
the track or raced.
If reduced performance is
experienced during track events or
competitive driving, turning off the
A/C will help to improve engine
performance.
Maintain a mixture of 40%
DEX-COOL coolant and 60% clean,
drinkable water to optimize engine
performance.
The front license bracket or aero
panel should be removed for track
events and competitive driving to
improve engine performance.
Rotor Cooling Ring
{Caution
Do not leave rotor cooling rings
installed after a track event, as
this can cause corrosion with
long-term use. Rotor cooling rings
are for race track use only. Race
track driving without the rotor
cooling rings may result in brake
pedal fade.
Installation:
1. Remove the front wheels.
2. Remove the caliper from the
knuckle.
3. Remove the brake rotors.
4. Cut three 150 mm (6 in) lengths
of safety wire specified to T304
Stainless Steel, 0.041 in nominal
diameter, not included.
5. Form each into a U shape with a
20 mm (0.75 in) flat area in the
center of the wire.
6. Place the rotor ring in the gap
between the rotor brake plate
and rotor hat, with the holes on
each side of the rotor spoke on
the outboard side of the rotor.
REAR (per corner)
. Caster: 0 degrees
. Camber: -1.7 degrees
. Toe: 0.05 degrees toe in
Thrust Angle: 0 degrees
Because the fluid temperatures may
be higher, it is necessary to change
the rear axle fluid every 24 hours of
track events or competitive driving.
See Recommended Fluids and
Lubricants on page 11-12 for what
fluid to use.
{Caution
During a first time track or racing
event, high rear axle
temperatures can occur. Damage
could be caused to the rear axle
and would not be covered by the
vehicle warranty.
Do not drive as long or as fast the
first time the vehicle is driven on
the track or raced.
If reduced performance is
experienced during track events or
competitive driving, turning off the
A/C will help to improve engine
performance.
Maintain a mixture of 40%
DEX-COOL coolant and 60% clean,
drinkable water to optimize engine
performance.
The front license bracket or aero
panel should be removed for track
events and competitive driving to
improve engine performance.
Rotor Cooling Ring
{Caution
Do not leave rotor cooling rings
installed after a track event, as
this can cause corrosion with
long-term use. Rotor cooling rings
are for race track use only. Race
track driving without the rotor
cooling rings may result in brake
pedal fade.
Installation:
1. Remove the front wheels.
2. Remove the caliper from the
knuckle.
3. Remove the brake rotors.
4. Cut three 150 mm (6 in) lengths
of safety wire specified to T304
Stainless Steel, 0.041 in nominal
diameter, not included.
5. Form each into a U shape with a
20 mm (0.75 in) flat area in the
center of the wire.
6. Place the rotor ring in the gap
between the rotor brake plate
and rotor hat, with the holes on
each side of the rotor spoke on
the outboard side of the rotor.
Clearly, the poster with the denied warranty claim did NOT follow these procedures. I don't know if this is why the claimed was denied, but it certainly is a possibility.