Protective paint coatings
#21
Just as a data point, I had CQuartz applied professionally by a detailer who has used it and applied it for over a year on multiple cars (all visible on his Facebook page) including a new Alfa Romeo 4c and multiple concourse cars (Porsche, Ferarri, etc.) For $600 he did the following:
-Decon Treatment (Wheels/Paint)
-ClayBar+Iron Deposit Remover
-Polish and Paint Correction
-CQuartzUK (2 Coats)
-Cquartz Reload (Topper)
-CQuartz Forte (Exterior Glass)
-CQuartz Dlux (Wheels/Trim/Tips)
-CarPro Perl (Tires)
-Interior Detail
He fixed a visible problem in the clearcoat where some kind of acidic liquid dripped down the passenger door and messed it up. He was also able to fix some pooling of finish on the targe top but unable to fix all the orange peel and a 'sanding spot' in the rear below the left tail light.
I can't recommend a coating strongly enough. If you want your car to be easy to maintain, this is the right stuff to have. I use a waterless wash every week or so and the car looks fantastic in 30 minutes.
-Decon Treatment (Wheels/Paint)
-ClayBar+Iron Deposit Remover
-Polish and Paint Correction
-CQuartzUK (2 Coats)
-Cquartz Reload (Topper)
-CQuartz Forte (Exterior Glass)
-CQuartz Dlux (Wheels/Trim/Tips)
-CarPro Perl (Tires)
-Interior Detail
He fixed a visible problem in the clearcoat where some kind of acidic liquid dripped down the passenger door and messed it up. He was also able to fix some pooling of finish on the targe top but unable to fix all the orange peel and a 'sanding spot' in the rear below the left tail light.
I can't recommend a coating strongly enough. If you want your car to be easy to maintain, this is the right stuff to have. I use a waterless wash every week or so and the car looks fantastic in 30 minutes.
#22
Race Director
Member Since: Sep 2013
Location: Ft Lauderdale
Posts: 10,404
Received 907 Likes
on
473 Posts
Tech Contributor
Just as a data point, I had CQuartz applied professionally by a detailer who has used it and applied it for over a year on multiple cars (all visible on his Facebook page) including a new Alfa Romeo 4c and multiple concourse cars (Porsche, Ferarri, etc.) For $600 he did the following:
-Decon Treatment (Wheels/Paint)
-ClayBar+Iron Deposit Remover
-Polish and Paint Correction
-CQuartzUK (2 Coats)
-Cquartz Reload (Topper)
-CQuartz Forte (Exterior Glass)
-CQuartz Dlux (Wheels/Trim/Tips)
-CarPro Perl (Tires)
-Interior Detail
He fixed a visible problem in the clearcoat where some kind of acidic liquid dripped down the passenger door and messed it up. He was also able to fix some pooling of finish on the targe top but unable to fix all the orange peel and a 'sanding spot' in the rear below the left tail light.
I can't recommend a coating strongly enough. If you want your car to be easy to maintain, this is the right stuff to have. I use a waterless wash every week or so and the car looks fantastic in 30 minutes.
-Decon Treatment (Wheels/Paint)
-ClayBar+Iron Deposit Remover
-Polish and Paint Correction
-CQuartzUK (2 Coats)
-Cquartz Reload (Topper)
-CQuartz Forte (Exterior Glass)
-CQuartz Dlux (Wheels/Trim/Tips)
-CarPro Perl (Tires)
-Interior Detail
He fixed a visible problem in the clearcoat where some kind of acidic liquid dripped down the passenger door and messed it up. He was also able to fix some pooling of finish on the targe top but unable to fix all the orange peel and a 'sanding spot' in the rear below the left tail light.
I can't recommend a coating strongly enough. If you want your car to be easy to maintain, this is the right stuff to have. I use a waterless wash every week or so and the car looks fantastic in 30 minutes.
#23
Originally Posted by [B
2014C7[/B];1590394888]nm vette why did you skip the film?
I skipped the film process because I strongly feel there is allot of hype and spin to the product. In addition the cost of the material is cheap for the vendor but the vendors charge a huge amount for the installation . It is labor intensive. In addition, I had a film shield apply to one of my Formula race cars (F1000) for the protection of the front cover and shock cover, the side pods amd mirrors. After 2 years the film product started to yellow in color from clear and started to peel from the edges. While the film shield did protect the paint surface from rock chips, there was till some tears in the film shield. Granted I was racing at speeds in excess of 100 MPH and open wheel race cars can get really beaten up from track debris. So I decided not to have any film shield products applied to any of my premium sports cars, as they are reguakr drivers and will not see any track time. See image below.
[QUOTE=[B]kevincol;[/B]1590394894]That is an utter rip off. I got my Opti-Coat Pro Plus for $600 from a local installer/detailer. I haven't been in town yet to get decent pictures of her and it has been raining the last two days...
kevincol:
You got a pretty good price for your professional application of the OptiCoat Pro Plus. Depending on the geographical location that you in, I have had communication with car owners who have paid in excess of $1200 for the same application. There is alos a spin to the product by some professional detail shops. Looks like your shop was honest and provide a good price point for you to move forward.
Originally Posted by [B
Streetrod782[/B];1590394909]I agree that's why I'm doing it myself. I live in Chicago so maybe that's why. They wanted $1295 to do Modesto and $1900 for Xpel. I am not afraid of tackling the ceramic coatings myself just trying to decide best bang for the buck.
I am a strong believer with the right prooducts, right tools (DA & orbital buffing machines) anybody can apply a quality "paint coating" to any vehicle. I say "paint coating" because they are different in quality, result and stability over a "paint sealant". You can easily make your paint coating project a fun project and if you have some time, 5 to 6 hours, the end result can be fantastic. All of my premium sports cars have been detailed with the Pinnacle Black Diamond ceramic Paint Coating and an application of Pinnacle Synergy Wax. Because you are willing to complete the work yourself as DIY will can save hundreds if not a $1000 dollars. Materials such as the Pinnacle products and supplies will cost under $150.00 or better.
As CF member "Glen e" has stated numerous times (and he knows what he is doing) and I totally agree, the success to the paint coating application is the prep work. Clay bar or nano skin the car, and make sure you use a good prep polish before applying the nano ceramic paint coating. I have my own process and steps that I have used, and feel comfortable with the process which results in a spectacular finish.
Streetrod, I understand the cost of living in the Chicago area for the professional detailing. I am originally from Hinsdale, Il.
If only many members would take this advice or Geln e's methods, they could have beautiful finishes that will protect the paint surface for many years to come. And also, with a good paint coating on the car, it is so easy to maintain the cars look afterwards with minimal effort.
#24
Burning Brakes
Glen e - without getting too crazy, what would be the best "polish" for a new 2016 arctic white coupe. Not trying to get to involved, but want a shine and wet look. The car will be brand new, here in a few weeks.
Thanks -
Thanks -
#25
Race Director
Member Since: Sep 2013
Location: Ft Lauderdale
Posts: 10,404
Received 907 Likes
on
473 Posts
Tech Contributor
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/acxkaf44c...VlC5djtQa?dl=0
#26
Just as a data point, I had CQuartz applied professionally by a detailer who has used it and applied it for over a year on multiple cars (all visible on his Facebook page) including a new Alfa Romeo 4c and multiple concourse cars (Porsche, Ferarri, etc.) For $600 he did the following:
-Decon Treatment (Wheels/Paint)
-ClayBar+Iron Deposit Remover
-Polish and Paint Correction
-CQuartzUK (2 Coats)
-Cquartz Reload (Topper)
-CQuartz Forte (Exterior Glass)
-CQuartz Dlux (Wheels/Trim/Tips)
-CarPro Perl (Tires)
-Interior Detail
He fixed a visible problem in the clearcoat where some kind of acidic liquid dripped down the passenger door and messed it up. He was also able to fix some pooling of finish on the targe top but unable to fix all the orange peel and a 'sanding spot' in the rear below the left tail light.
I can't recommend a coating strongly enough. If you want your car to be easy to maintain, this is the right stuff to have. I use a waterless wash every week or so and the car looks fantastic in 30 minutes.
-Decon Treatment (Wheels/Paint)
-ClayBar+Iron Deposit Remover
-Polish and Paint Correction
-CQuartzUK (2 Coats)
-Cquartz Reload (Topper)
-CQuartz Forte (Exterior Glass)
-CQuartz Dlux (Wheels/Trim/Tips)
-CarPro Perl (Tires)
-Interior Detail
He fixed a visible problem in the clearcoat where some kind of acidic liquid dripped down the passenger door and messed it up. He was also able to fix some pooling of finish on the targe top but unable to fix all the orange peel and a 'sanding spot' in the rear below the left tail light.
I can't recommend a coating strongly enough. If you want your car to be easy to maintain, this is the right stuff to have. I use a waterless wash every week or so and the car looks fantastic in 30 minutes.
#27
Racer
I firmly believe in the protective coating...BUT...I hate seeing the lines. So I had them do the entire front bumper only...not extend to the hood. It's almost impossible to see it's on the car.
#28
For my data point for reference, and keep in mind this is the highest end detail shop around Seattle that I know of, and trust with my brand new Zo6
my bill from detailer is as follows:
Hand Wash
Iron X
Clay Bar
Machine Polish
Wax
Interior Clean 250
OptiCoat Pro 745
Plus
OC Extra Roof 100
22PLE Wheels 500
Calipers
OC all Glass 250
Total 1845
#29
Thanks NM Vette, I am thinking along the same lines as you. Cars I have seen with film just have cuts in film instead. In the end they are cars...I am going with the coatings to ease in washing and to keep car protected from chemical issues (bird poop) more than rocks.
Besides I have seen cars with clear bras then get a chip on the a pillar, in the end can you ever win going nutty over cosmetics? LOL
Cheers nice F1000 car btw, that is freaking coolness!
Rock On!
Besides I have seen cars with clear bras then get a chip on the a pillar, in the end can you ever win going nutty over cosmetics? LOL
Cheers nice F1000 car btw, that is freaking coolness!
Rock On!
#30
I would prefer a paint sealer rather then a film application, IMO. Can anyone recommend a professional detailer located in or near Boca Raton Florida?
Has GM ever recommended a product or process to use on new Chevy products?
Has GM ever recommended a product or process to use on new Chevy products?
#31
Le Mans Master
However, I just ordered a 2016 C7 which is due in mid October and plan to protect it too but would like to know more about ceramic paint coating since I no clue what it is, how well it protects a vehicle vs an exterior "filmshield". So if you could provide me with an overview that would be awesome.
BTW, what year is your C7?
#32
Le Mans Master
1) P21S Concours Carnauba Wax 6.2 ounce http://www.autogeek.net/p2concarwax.html. Also available through Amazon
2) Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze 16.9 oz. http://www.autogeek.net/klashiggloss.html
(Link to how to apply, MUCH different process than wax, but the results are WORTH IT! http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...de-and-review/)
#33
Le Mans Master
A big vote for 3M ProSeries if you want to go that route to protect the front end from rock chips.
Comparison between 3M ProSeries, Xpel Ultimate and SunTek PPF
Comparison between 3M ProSeries, Xpel Ultimate and SunTek PPF
#34
Originally Posted by [B
Maxie2U[/B];1590397287]Although I have 3M's Pro-Series on my current vehicle (not a vette) and love everything about it.
However, I just ordered a 2016 C7 which is due in mid October and plan to protect it too but would like to know more about ceramic paint coating since I no clue what it is, how well it protects a vehicle vs an exterior "filmshield". So if you could provide me with an overview that would be awesome.
BTW, what year is your C7?
However, I just ordered a 2016 C7 which is due in mid October and plan to protect it too but would like to know more about ceramic paint coating since I no clue what it is, how well it protects a vehicle vs an exterior "filmshield". So if you could provide me with an overview that would be awesome.
BTW, what year is your C7?
First of all my Corvette C7 is a 2015 model 1LT with the ZF1 Appearance Pkg that was available on the 2015 models.
I coated the paint surface after the car was delivered and had 50 miles on it using the Pinnacle Black Label line of detail products. These products are very cost effective and available from CF vendor autogeek.net I have a 7 to 8 step process that I always use and never alter my process.
Autogeek has a great forum on auto detailing and are one of the most respected vendors for selling a wide array of detail products. They are located in Stuart. Fl.
There are many articles on paint sealants and ceramic coatings. Keep in mind these products are applied in ultra thin coats, it is not like a coffee mug that is ceramic coated and thick.
As mentioned by myself and another CF member (Glen e) who has made his mark here on the forum about auto detailing tips, we both strongly agree the paint surface must be ultra clean in order for any paint sealant or ceramic coating to bond into the paint. Once applied, the car owner needs to park the vehicle inside and I suggest to cover it up (even if using bedsheets) so the material that was applied can "cure" or "bond" into the paint surface.
There is a difference between a paint coating, sealant and a 'film shield". Personally I always go the coating route, as I have known many car owners that have had their vehicles film shielded, you can see lines. The lines can get dirty, the sun is very powerful and can eventually fade or discolor the film shield. Rock chips can still scratch the surface of the film shield and can still tear the film shield.
In my case, using the ceramic coatings is strictly a personal choice.
As stated above these coating can be easy to apply if you carefully follow a process of steps to complete the detail work. While the end result is not a cost issue, because you can complete the detail as a DIY project, the project is time and labor intensive. To complete the work or detail job correctly, reserve 5 to 7 hours over the life of two days. It is a great weekend project or if your retired (like myself) it makes for a great weekday project.
Once the project is completed, future car care is so easy to keep the wet look and ultimate shine and reflective qualities of the finish. So it becomes the first 5 to 7 hours of what I consider a fun project, then it gets only easier there afterwards.
Using a paint sealant like Meguiars will provide great shine, and reflective qualities for many months (6 to 9 months, even a year) if the car is garage kept and washed every month.
The nano ceramic coatings can last up to 2-3 years before having to re-apply the product. I am suspicous of claims that the ceramic coating will last 5 to 7 years. I consider those claims more hype and spin.
Some well respected products like OptiCoat Pro Plus can only be completed by professional detail shops vs the consumer. The reason is these companies only sell the product to professional dealers. There are however many products that serve the DIY very well for DIY projects as I have done.
Many times you can find these products sold in kits that provide the car owner with a complete package of products to complete the deatil project.
Here are a few links to look at so that you may educate yourself a little on these coatings.
http://www.autogeek.net/pinnacle-paint-coating.html
http://www.drbeasleys.com/blog/2014/...ersible-error/
http://www.autogeek.net/cquartz-paint-sealant.html
I always try to provide images and links that can benefit the CF member. Hopefully this info sheds a little bit of lite on the paint coating discussion.
I have also included a rare Tiger Sunbean (1965) that I did recently for one of my fellow British Car Clubs members, It is a classic 1965 vehicle that when is was first brought to me needed some car care. The end result speaks for it self.
#36
Drifting
The guy that did mine is located in Sarasota, he did a great job. Very meticulous.
#37
Le Mans Master
Maxie2U:
First of all my Corvette C7 is a 2015 model 1LT with the ZF1 Appearance Pkg that was available on the 2015 models.
I coated the paint surface after the car was delivered and had 50 miles on it using the Pinnacle Black Label line of detail products. These products are very cost effective and available from CF vendor autogeek.net I have a 7 to 8 step process that I always use and never alter my process.
Autogeek has a great forum on auto detailing and are one of the most respected vendors for selling a wide array of detail products. They are located in Stuart. Fl.
There are many articles on paint sealants and ceramic coatings. Keep in mind these products are applied in ultra thin coats, it is not like a coffee mug that is ceramic coated and thick.
As mentioned by myself and another CF member (Glen e) who has made his mark here on the forum about auto detailing tips, we both strongly agree the paint surface must be ultra clean in order for any paint sealant or ceramic coating to bond into the paint. Once applied, the car owner needs to park the vehicle inside and I suggest to cover it up (even if using bedsheets) so the material that was applied can "cure" or "bond" into the paint surface.
There is a difference between a paint coating, sealant and a 'film shield". Personally I always go the coating route, as I have known many car owners that have had their vehicles film shielded, you can see lines. The lines can get dirty, the sun is very powerful and can eventually fade or discolor the film shield. Rock chips can still scratch the surface of the film shield and can still tear the film shield.
In my case, using the ceramic coatings is strictly a personal choice.
As stated above these coating can be easy to apply if you carefully follow a process of steps to complete the detail work. While the end result is not a cost issue, because you can complete the detail as a DIY project, the project is time and labor intensive. To complete the work or detail job correctly, reserve 5 to 7 hours over the life of two days. It is a great weekend project or if your retired (like myself) it makes for a great weekday project.
Once the project is completed, future car care is so easy to keep the wet look and ultimate shine and reflective qualities of the finish. So it becomes the first 5 to 7 hours of what I consider a fun project, then it gets only easier there afterwards.
Using a paint sealant like Meguiars will provide great shine, and reflective qualities for many months (6 to 9 months, even a year) if the car is garage kept and washed every month.
The nano ceramic coatings can last up to 2-3 years before having to re-apply the product. I am suspicous of claims that the ceramic coating will last 5 to 7 years. I consider those claims more hype and spin.
Some well respected products like OptiCoat Pro Plus can only be completed by professional detail shops vs the consumer. The reason is these companies only sell the product to professional dealers. There are however many products that serve the DIY very well for DIY projects as I have done.
Many times you can find these products sold in kits that provide the car owner with a complete package of products to complete the deatil project.
Here are a few links to look at so that you may educate yourself a little on these coatings.
http://www.autogeek.net/pinnacle-paint-coating.html
http://www.drbeasleys.com/blog/2014/...ersible-error/
http://www.autogeek.net/cquartz-paint-sealant.html
I always try to provide images and links that can benefit the CF member. Hopefully this info sheds a little bit of lite on the paint coating discussion.
I have also included a rare Tiger Sunbean (1965) that I did recently for one of my fellow British Car Clubs members, It is a classic 1965 vehicle that when is was first brought to me needed some car care. The end result speaks for it self.
First of all my Corvette C7 is a 2015 model 1LT with the ZF1 Appearance Pkg that was available on the 2015 models.
I coated the paint surface after the car was delivered and had 50 miles on it using the Pinnacle Black Label line of detail products. These products are very cost effective and available from CF vendor autogeek.net I have a 7 to 8 step process that I always use and never alter my process.
Autogeek has a great forum on auto detailing and are one of the most respected vendors for selling a wide array of detail products. They are located in Stuart. Fl.
There are many articles on paint sealants and ceramic coatings. Keep in mind these products are applied in ultra thin coats, it is not like a coffee mug that is ceramic coated and thick.
As mentioned by myself and another CF member (Glen e) who has made his mark here on the forum about auto detailing tips, we both strongly agree the paint surface must be ultra clean in order for any paint sealant or ceramic coating to bond into the paint. Once applied, the car owner needs to park the vehicle inside and I suggest to cover it up (even if using bedsheets) so the material that was applied can "cure" or "bond" into the paint surface.
There is a difference between a paint coating, sealant and a 'film shield". Personally I always go the coating route, as I have known many car owners that have had their vehicles film shielded, you can see lines. The lines can get dirty, the sun is very powerful and can eventually fade or discolor the film shield. Rock chips can still scratch the surface of the film shield and can still tear the film shield.
In my case, using the ceramic coatings is strictly a personal choice.
As stated above these coating can be easy to apply if you carefully follow a process of steps to complete the detail work. While the end result is not a cost issue, because you can complete the detail as a DIY project, the project is time and labor intensive. To complete the work or detail job correctly, reserve 5 to 7 hours over the life of two days. It is a great weekend project or if your retired (like myself) it makes for a great weekday project.
Once the project is completed, future car care is so easy to keep the wet look and ultimate shine and reflective qualities of the finish. So it becomes the first 5 to 7 hours of what I consider a fun project, then it gets only easier there afterwards.
Using a paint sealant like Meguiars will provide great shine, and reflective qualities for many months (6 to 9 months, even a year) if the car is garage kept and washed every month.
The nano ceramic coatings can last up to 2-3 years before having to re-apply the product. I am suspicous of claims that the ceramic coating will last 5 to 7 years. I consider those claims more hype and spin.
Some well respected products like OptiCoat Pro Plus can only be completed by professional detail shops vs the consumer. The reason is these companies only sell the product to professional dealers. There are however many products that serve the DIY very well for DIY projects as I have done.
Many times you can find these products sold in kits that provide the car owner with a complete package of products to complete the deatil project.
Here are a few links to look at so that you may educate yourself a little on these coatings.
http://www.autogeek.net/pinnacle-paint-coating.html
http://www.drbeasleys.com/blog/2014/...ersible-error/
http://www.autogeek.net/cquartz-paint-sealant.html
I always try to provide images and links that can benefit the CF member. Hopefully this info sheds a little bit of lite on the paint coating discussion.
I have also included a rare Tiger Sunbean (1965) that I did recently for one of my fellow British Car Clubs members, It is a classic 1965 vehicle that when is was first brought to me needed some car care. The end result speaks for it self.
I want to thank you for the reply. The background info you provided helped. I will review the info in the links you provided to educate myself on coating and application process. And yes, the pics of your C7 & the Sunbeam speak for themselves about the end result of using ceramic coatings.
Thanks Again.
BTW, I remember that sweet little car....Fun to drive and whowould have thought back then it would still be held in high regard now.
#38
Burning Brakes
Just as a data point, I had CQuartz applied professionally by a detailer who has used it and applied it for over a year on multiple cars (all visible on his Facebook page) including a new Alfa Romeo 4c and multiple concourse cars (Porsche, Ferarri, etc.) For $600 he did the following:
-Decon Treatment (Wheels/Paint)
-ClayBar+Iron Deposit Remover
-Polish and Paint Correction
-CQuartzUK (2 Coats)
-Cquartz Reload (Topper)
-CQuartz Forte (Exterior Glass)
-CQuartz Dlux (Wheels/Trim/Tips)
-CarPro Perl (Tires)
-Interior Detail
He fixed a visible problem in the clearcoat where some kind of acidic liquid dripped down the passenger door and messed it up. He was also able to fix some pooling of finish on the targe top but unable to fix all the orange peel and a 'sanding spot' in the rear below the left tail light.
I can't recommend a coating strongly enough. If you want your car to be easy to maintain, this is the right stuff to have. I use a waterless wash every week or so and the car looks fantastic in 30 minutes.
-Decon Treatment (Wheels/Paint)
-ClayBar+Iron Deposit Remover
-Polish and Paint Correction
-CQuartzUK (2 Coats)
-Cquartz Reload (Topper)
-CQuartz Forte (Exterior Glass)
-CQuartz Dlux (Wheels/Trim/Tips)
-CarPro Perl (Tires)
-Interior Detail
He fixed a visible problem in the clearcoat where some kind of acidic liquid dripped down the passenger door and messed it up. He was also able to fix some pooling of finish on the targe top but unable to fix all the orange peel and a 'sanding spot' in the rear below the left tail light.
I can't recommend a coating strongly enough. If you want your car to be easy to maintain, this is the right stuff to have. I use a waterless wash every week or so and the car looks fantastic in 30 minutes.
#39
Burning Brakes
#40
Drifting
Most of this discussion is related to permanent protective coatings, which is what may work best for some of you. But I would suggest for temporary protection, at least some consideration should be given to Road Warrior Plus roll on protection. It is easy to install and easy to remove, does a nice job of protecting the paint. I have used it on my Corvette ST2 race car and the paint looks new despite many laps in less than desirable conditions. Also used it on my motorcoach, and my daily driver for long trips. It makes clean up after a trip so easy. Just another option for some. Thanks. Jerry