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Think I am going to add a relay connecting the COM in with the wire coming from the add a circuit and connect NC back to the bottom of the add a circuit. This will start the car in normal operating mode and then use the output of the wireless control box to trigger the relay to open that circuit.
I could just find a wireless control box that has a NC and NO side but I really don't want to have to experiment with what fits where the other box does and what works with homelink visor.
SkidPlate, I can't thank you enough for the research and work you did on this, also the others involved in the earlier threads as everyone figured out if this could be done, and how the heck to do it.
I have filled in the missing piece of the puzzle, which was never clarified, that is the pesky ground connection (IN THE FUSE BOX).
The Fuse box gasket is a seal to keep moisture out of the box, for obvious reasons. It consists of a collapsible seal in the lid and a pressure rib in the box. Any wires or braids that pass through that seal, break that seal, I could not live with that exposure, so I found a way to keep the entire unit self contained and "PLUG AND PLAY" for easy removal and that does not breach the seal of the fuse box.
The answer to your much earlier question regarding ground connections in the fuse box is...the micro relays. The Vac Pump Relay at position 63 is actually a "Ground Switching" relay, so pole 87 has a continuous ground, regardless of the state of the cars electrical system.
here are the highlights of my install to be used in conjunction with your INCREDIBLE instructions above. The end result is a completely unobtrusive, turnkey solution.
Again thanks Skidplate, For all of your hard work and research. And thanks to the folks that helped you out as well.
My thanks to Skidplate and Ratz for the research and the documentation. I finally got around to moving my M2W under the fuse cover. The exposed wires were not a big deal to me, but you could see them and this seemed like a reasonable way to do it. Worked out really well. Works just fine this way. I'm not sure why the M2W folks just don't make the case a little smaller so it would work this way, but oh well.
It is a little tight height wise where you need to push on the cover a bit to get it to snap closed on the one side, but that thing ain't moving, no need for any double stick tape or anything.
Some of us prefer easy DIY instead of just cutting a check.
Thanks for the link to the Forza controller. I also like that option. But what is their warranty like? From my calcs. also it looks like the DIY option is good and only about $20 - $30 compared to $80. Is this right?
I spent the money for the M2W, but I still did modify it to get it to fit under the fuse panel. So I voided any warranty :-) I just was looking to save some time and not put things together, just focused on the case modification (choosing my battles).
For my 2018 Stingray this will not work, seems a fuel pump primer relay blocks location of wireless switch box location and there is no where else in fuse box to fit it. Guess I'll do the wired option.
The big plus for me on this mod was no wires outside the fuse box. Couldn't make that work with new relay so wrapped with electrical<br/><br/> tape and put hot glue on wire exit.
The big plus for me on this mod was no wires outside the fuse box. Couldn't make that work with new relay so wrapped with electrical<br/><br/> tape and put hot glue on wire exit.
Thats my main concern also for my MY19. Especially when cleaning the engine compartment with high pressure cleaner. Is there really no solution for MY 18/19 inside the fuse box?
Quick question, I see you picked up a control box that supports 15A @12V. However the original spot #42 (or 41) calls for a 20amp fuse. We can then extrapolate that this circuit might at any point reach a current of that value. This cannot be good for a relay that is designed for normal operation at a maximum of only 15 amps...
Quick question, I see you picked up a control box that supports 15A @12V. However the original spot #42 (or 41) calls for a 20amp fuse. We can then extrapolate that this circuit might at any point reach a current of that value. This cannot be good for a relay that is designed for normal operation at a maximum of only 15 amps...
I don't think the exhaust valve circuit pulls near 20A as most circuit designs have a fuse rated higher than the anticipated current and will trip in case there is an electrical issue that causes the current to rise above the expected value. I suspect the relay points may not see excess current as well.
Since my installation has a quick disconnect ground, I will open the ground cable and insert an ammeter to get some current readings and post them here. I should have time this weekend.
I have not heard of any failures over the last 5 years from any of the many folks who successfully installed this circuit. I wouldn't be surprised if the similar (but late to the C7 game) product from Mild2Wild uses the same board.
Many thanks to all the INVENTORS.
They all helped me to solve this little but annoying problem.
This is my solution.
The platine with quick un-/connect to the outside (frame) ground. Fuse changed to 10 A (weaker relais), works since 3 years. Tested. Didn´t remember exactly, the valve needs less then 5 or 3 Amps.
Only the platine taped with an isolating foam-tape (heating/aircondition)
This fits in a 2019 GS (Europa) fusebox. With a 0,75 mm² silicon cable, to go out of the fusebox, no changes are necesseary.
Last edited by silverback v8; 05-01-2020 at 07:36 AM.
SkidPlate, I can't thank you enough for the research and work you did on this, also the others involved in the earlier threads as everyone figured out if this could be done, and how the heck to do it.
I have filled in the missing piece of the puzzle, which was never clarified, that is the pesky ground connection (IN THE FUSE BOX).
The Fuse box gasket is a seal to keep moisture out of the box, for obvious reasons. It consists of a collapsible seal in the lid and a pressure rib in the box. Any wires or braids that pass through that seal, break that seal, I could not live with that exposure, so I found a way to keep the entire unit self contained and "PLUG AND PLAY" for easy removal and that does not breach the seal of the fuse box.
The answer to your much earlier question regarding ground connections in the fuse box is...the micro relays. The Vac Pump Relay at position 63 is actually a "Ground Switching" relay, so pole 87 has a continuous ground, regardless of the state of the cars electrical system.
here are the highlights of my install to be used in conjunction with your INCREDIBLE instructions above. The end result is a completely unobtrusive, turnkey solution.
Terminal Lugs
Lug with Relay 63 at pin 87
The Lugs of the VAC PUMP Mini Relay at Position 63 in the Fuse Box
VAC PUMP Relay Location 63 in Fusebox
Locating the Ground Tap Location
Crimped Blade for Ground Tap
Mark Case for shortening
Cut Case Halves
Reassemble Box, No Glue or Tape, screws will hold it together.
Assembled Box
PLUG AND PLAY MODULE
Installed.
Again thanks Skidplate, For all of your hard work and research. And thanks to the folks that helped you out as well.
Great idea but I checked the the ground on #87 in my 2019 GS and it actually looses some continuity after the engine starts. Not sure if not having a full ground will work. I wonder if there are any other slots that can be tapped inside the fuse box.
Skidplate, thank you for all the effort you put into this mod. I did the install yesterday and thanks to you, RATZ, and the other contributors the install was quick and easy.
So I finally got some time today to tinker around with this. I got it to work as a prototype but I did not button it all up because I didnt quite like my cable management so I need to reconfigure the wires. I went with a more custom solution using a generic 10amp 12V relay very similar to the one silverback posted above.
But on the process of testing, found a fun fact.. I'm not recommending you do this but... In case you were wondering, the alternator housing is actually grounded and it completes the circuit if you would, let's say, tape the COM wire from the circuit board to it 😂 . And from what I've read I believe the engine block is too 🙃
03-17-2017, 07:56 AM
