Winter Storage - What to do and for how long
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Winter Storage - What to do and for how long
My C7 (2016 Z51) is parked inside my heated garage for the winter.
What I am wondering is, how often to start it up, and then how long to run it for. I have the battery on the GM charger and it is unplugged when I start it up. note: It will be parked from November to April. (current milage is 1500km or 932miles)
Also any other considerations to keep on top of would be appreciated.
Greg
What I am wondering is, how often to start it up, and then how long to run it for. I have the battery on the GM charger and it is unplugged when I start it up. note: It will be parked from November to April. (current milage is 1500km or 932miles)
Also any other considerations to keep on top of would be appreciated.
Greg
#2
Burning Brakes
Same here, on battery tender from Nov. to April. Do NOT start it up.
Have done this for many years, just keep it on the tender.
Pump up the tires to about 35psi, they will lose air. I keep my cars on carpet swatches in unheated garage.
Never had issues doing this.
(Wish we didn't HAVE to, but that's another topic altogether! )
Have done this for many years, just keep it on the tender.
Pump up the tires to about 35psi, they will lose air. I keep my cars on carpet swatches in unheated garage.
Never had issues doing this.
(Wish we didn't HAVE to, but that's another topic altogether! )
#4
Melting Slicks
I wash it, plug the battery tender in, throw a cover over it and forget about it until late March. I don't worry about fuel level, plastic tanks won't rust. Oil I change I do my yearly change in the spring. Tires may flat spot a tiny bit but they work themselves out in the first few miles.
Before the first start in Spring I push the gas pedal all the way down and hit the start button a few times to build oil pressure and circulate some oil to the areas where it drained down by sitting then I fire it up as normal and move on with my life.
Before the first start in Spring I push the gas pedal all the way down and hit the start button a few times to build oil pressure and circulate some oil to the areas where it drained down by sitting then I fire it up as normal and move on with my life.
Last edited by SK360; 11-06-2015 at 12:38 PM.
#5
Safety Car
I believe some people believe letting it sit for A long time without starting dries the cylinder
Lining.That way when the car is started it's metal against metal.I believe there is oil so it won't become dry.Also the tires Supposely will get flat spots even with them inflated to 40 psi.Myself this is all here say.I'm just the messenger.
Lining.That way when the car is started it's metal against metal.I believe there is oil so it won't become dry.Also the tires Supposely will get flat spots even with them inflated to 40 psi.Myself this is all here say.I'm just the messenger.
#6
Advanced
Thread Starter
I assume without your foot on the brake...... I didn't realize that this was a way to turn the motor over without it starting?
#7
Racer
...Wash it ...fill tank up, add stabilizer and run for 5 minutes ...put on ramps to avoid tire flat spots ...connect battery tender ...steel wool in exhaust pipes to keep out mice ...moth ***** around car to scare away mice ...small dehumidifier bucket in interior ...cover car ...never ever start it up (condensation would form) It all sounds **** but it works and gives me piece of mind.
#9
Melting Slicks
It's a built in safety feature in case the drive by wire system fails stuck full on so that the motor won't start, cuts fuel and spark and just spins the starter.
The following users liked this post:
2DLIMIT (11-07-2015)
#10
Melting Slicks
Worst thing to do is start it and not driving it.
The C7 is in a zippered bag, the battery tender cord is existing the bottom edge in the photo with duct tape around it to keep a mouse from sneaking in. The C3 is in front of it with Bounce drier sheets hopefully keeping the mice away....I need to purchase a second bag.
The C7 is in a zippered bag, the battery tender cord is existing the bottom edge in the photo with duct tape around it to keep a mouse from sneaking in. The C3 is in front of it with Bounce drier sheets hopefully keeping the mice away....I need to purchase a second bag.
Last edited by John Ulrich; 11-06-2015 at 02:46 PM.
#11
CF Senior Member
Here's my 10-step approach to putting my baby to sleep in my heated garage:
1. Wash and blow-dry thoroughly to remove all moisture from vents, cracks and crevices
2. Drive and apply brakes sufficiently to remove any rust from the brake discs
3. Put fresh Stabil into gas tank and top-off with fresh fuel
4. Inflate tires to 40PSI to help from flat bottoming
5. Put an open box of A & H baking soda on interior floor to absorb any orders
6. I park the car on a set of Flat Stoppers to raise it off the ground and further protect against flat bottoming of the tires
7. Install battery tender
8. Lower driver's side window just slightly in case you lose power and have to get into the car
8. Cover with a proper fitting (and not cheap) car cover
9. During the crap winter months I will also remove each wheel and tire and thoroughly clean each one wax each wheel before reinstalling. I'll also clean the undercarriage, brake caliper and wheel wells as necessary.
10. Pray for Spring!
1. Wash and blow-dry thoroughly to remove all moisture from vents, cracks and crevices
2. Drive and apply brakes sufficiently to remove any rust from the brake discs
3. Put fresh Stabil into gas tank and top-off with fresh fuel
4. Inflate tires to 40PSI to help from flat bottoming
5. Put an open box of A & H baking soda on interior floor to absorb any orders
6. I park the car on a set of Flat Stoppers to raise it off the ground and further protect against flat bottoming of the tires
7. Install battery tender
8. Lower driver's side window just slightly in case you lose power and have to get into the car
8. Cover with a proper fitting (and not cheap) car cover
9. During the crap winter months I will also remove each wheel and tire and thoroughly clean each one wax each wheel before reinstalling. I'll also clean the undercarriage, brake caliper and wheel wells as necessary.
10. Pray for Spring!
#12
Race Director
You should be doing the yearly oil change right before storage, not right after. It's always preferable to have the cleanest oil during the long storage period. Do you really want the oil to have a higher level of acid in it during those 3-4 months every year or would you rather have the oil as fresh as possible?
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redandtan (11-07-2015)
#13
Melting Slicks
You should be doing the yearly oil change right before storage, not right after. It's always preferable to have the cleanest oil during the long storage period. Do you really want the oil to have a higher level of acid in it during those 3-4 months every year or would you rather have the oil as fresh as possible?
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BRussell (11-14-2015)
#14
Safety Car
And, if it is in a garage, sit in it every once and a while, drink a single malt scotch and dream of spring!
Last edited by BlueFinn; 11-06-2015 at 06:50 PM. Reason: sp
The following 2 users liked this post by BlueFinn:
duanepillar (11-16-2015),
redandtan (11-07-2015)
#16
Burning Brakes
#17
Team Owner
#18
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16,'18
I am determined to find at least one sunny day with dry roads each month during the winter so I can take a nice long drive on some western MD back roads.