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Looking good and you should feel more relaxed when it comes to bonding time.
On the scale of 1 to 10 when it comes to getting the bolt-on panels on.... they are about a 2....maybe a 3...at least that is how I feel about that portion of the job when I get to that portion.
I'm very interested in the DIY portion of the project. It's going to be fall here soon and then winter. Got 6 months to work on it.
I'd love to have the extra tire width. I just put a new set of ZP's on after 27K miles and I thought they held well before, now I barely get any spin in 2nd with the SC/Meth.
So on a scale of 1 to 10 how difficult is the body panel portion versus the aperture panel part?
Looks like the body portion is pretty easy but the aperture panels are not.
That a fair assessment?
Care to share how much you are into this for in total when done?
I agree with DUB in his assessment that the body panels are a 2 or 3 on a 10 point scale of difficulty. Nothing to those except knowing where all the fasteners are and keeping track of everything you remove, along with lots of pictures for reference when you build it all back up. The apertures are time consuming and tedious, but certainly within the capabilities of most readers here. Two days of work on those and you are ready to bond the new ones in place and put everything back together. A 6 maybe on the same scale. Once you have the directions its really pretty straightforward, and not nearly as finesse oriented as other body work I've seen done.
I'll give a detailed report when I'm finished, but as of now I have invested about $4200 for new panels and trim, $1950 to have the panels painted, and about $300 for special tools and adhesives. I've also bought several Z06 specific aero accessory items, like a full wickerbill carbon fiber rear spoiler, carbon fiber stage 3 front splitter with wings, and side skirts. I don't consider those expenditures part of the base project cost because they would be spent on my Z51 anyway. In any case, those were another $2500.
I agree with DUB in his assessment that the body panels are a 2 or 3 on a 10 point scale of difficulty. Nothing to those except knowing where all the fasteners are and keeping track of everything you remove, along with lots of pictures for reference when you build it all back up. The apertures are time consuming and tedious, but certainly within the capabilities of most readers here. Two days of work on those and you are ready to bond the new ones in place and put everything back together. A 6 maybe on the same scale. Once you have the directions its really pretty straightforward, and not nearly as finesse oriented as other body work I've seen done.
I'll give a detailed report when I'm finished, but as of now I have invested about $4200 for new panels and trim, $1950 to have the panels painted, and about $300 for special tools and adhesives. I've also bought several Z06 specific aero accessory items, like a full wickerbill carbon fiber rear spoiler, carbon fiber stage 3 front splitter with wings, and side skirts. I don't consider those expenditures part of the base project cost because they would be spent on my Z51 anyway. In any case, those were another $2500.
So do you think that if the area's you left as far as the adhesive are good enough to use as shims for proper fitment?
Seems like the front and rear will align themselves, just the center area is where you have to be careful on placement?
I was going to start picking up Z06/GS body panels as they came up on Ebay.
So do you think that if the area's you left as far as the adhesive are good enough to use as shims for proper fitment? YES...this method is written in a facotry service manual as I mentioned before.
Seems like the front and rear will align themselves, just the center area is where you have to be careful on placement? YES....but why take any chances..especially knowing that the adhesive can be entirely removed if needed. You can take it off easy enough...but gettign it back on like the factory had it is another issue all together.
I was going to start picking up Z06/GS body panels as they came up on Ebay.
As mentioned before...YOU can DO this...just in case you were wondering if you could or not....ESPECIALLY if you want to do it. IF you do not want to do it...then do not even start on it.
As mentioned before...YOU can DO this...just in case you were wondering if you could or not....ESPECIALLY if you want to do it. IF you do not want to do it...then do not even start on it.
DUB
Absolutely!
JV
Originally Posted by NoOne
So do you think that if the area's you left as far as the adhesive are good enough to use as shims for proper fitment?
Seems like the front and rear will align themselves, just the center area is where you have to be careful on placement?
The inside lower front corner of the aperture has a 90 degree corner built in, and I left the old adhesive from that corner on the frame so that the corner on the new panel fits into it for a precise fit. There are also key points at the front top, rear top, rear lower and center of the bottom. Even after leaving these small sections, there is plentyof area for new adhesive, so there is no reason to minimize the number of 'shims' you leave. Here are some of the critical shim areas I mentioned and the parts of the panel which fit them:
As mentioned before...YOU can DO this...just in case you were wondering if you could or not....ESPECIALLY if you want to do it. IF you do not want to do it...then do not even start on it.
DUB
Originally Posted by Jet Vet
Absolutely!
JV
The inside lower front corner of the aperture has a 90 degree corner built in, and I left the old adhesive from that corner on the frame so that the corner on the new panel fits into it for a precise fit. There are also key points at the front top, rear top, rear lower and center of the bottom. Even after leaving these small sections, there is plentyof area for new adhesive, so there is no reason to minimize the number of 'shims' you leave. Here are some of the critical shim areas I mentioned and the parts of the panel which fit them:
Thanks both for the info. I do not lack the mechanical ability to do the work. Done tons of suspension work and have an automotive background, 20 years in the industry for an OEM.
But body work has never been my thing but this looks more like a puzzle than anything else.
But body work has never been my thing but this looks more like a puzzle than anything else.
EXACTLY!!!! All it is often times is just that and is like working on a model car...bu the scale is 1:1.
I have a few friends who are great mechanics and when they see me apply filler or laminate...they tell me they would have 'that crap' all over the place and it would be screwed up. They 'say' I make it look easy...and I tell them that is IS! Just paying attention to what I was doing all these years allows me to make it look easy.
The major difference is that I have decades of doing this stuff and have figured out 'things' that often times do not seem to be important ...until after the job is done and there is a problem...those 'things' become VERY APPARENT that they were important and should not have been overlooked.
dang man, Ive been busy with work, I pop up on here and WOWSA! props to you man, I'm in same boat except I'm trying to convince the wife to let me go GS haha
Slow going today, I wasn't watching out for the new steel garage cabinets I just installed, and I clanged my forehead against the lower corner of one of the wall units this morning. Yeah, yeah, I know - rubber corner bumpers. They're on order but haven't arrived yet...
Anyway, I decided that since the urethane adhesive has a short work time of 15 minutes, I should mark the areas on the inside of the new aperture where it gets applied so I can put it on expeditiously. I also marked the areas where the epoxy panel bond goes, but it has a much longer work time. Then I used 80 grit sand paper to rough up those areas of the inner surface to provide a better base for adhesion. Finally I vacuumed thoroughly and wiped everything down with alcohol to ensure a clean surface, also for proper adhesion.
Earlier I had installed the rear brake cooling scoop contrasting black liner, which you can see in the red circle and also in the last picture. That needs to be done before the aperture is bonded in place.
Looks like tomorrow morning for epoxying both new aperture panels in place.
08-06-2016, 05:07 PM
Absolutely!
