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Old 10-20-2016, 11:52 AM
  #21  
\Boost Monkey/
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Originally Posted by Strake
NMVETTEC7 ........ Yes you did suggest to me how to do this, and it was greatly appreciated, and worked GREAT.....

As for Boost Monkey's question about drilling into something such as wiring, etc...... I was careful to drill in JUST far enough to go through the rocker material...... about 1/8" or so I would guess. Also, it is my understanding that only the Z06 has lines running in there. It drills like butter, so it takes very little pressure on the drill. I slid the drill bit way into the chuck, so that only about 3/16" of bit was showing so it would stop at that point. I had no issues.

So you got the 6mm ones on amazon?

Can you please pull the link from your amazon account if you still have it in your "purchased" section.

I can't for the life of me find those. I found a bunch of the push type rivets like Jake mentioned, but i like your fender type push rivets better, i know those hold better than the push and lock type.
Old 10-20-2016, 12:06 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Strake
NMVETTEC7 ........ Yes you did suggest to me how to do this, and it was greatly appreciated, and worked GREAT.....

As for Boost Monkey's question about drilling into something such as wiring, etc...... I was careful to drill in JUST far enough to go through the rocker material...... about 1/8" or so I would guess. Also, it is my understanding that only the Z06 has lines running in there. It drills like butter, so it takes very little pressure on the drill. I slid the drill bit way into the chuck, so that only about 3/16" of bit was showing so it would stop at that point. I had no issues.

Yes, you are correct Strake. The composite material drills thru like butter as you are only drilling into the composite material which is about 1/8" to maybe 3/16" thickness. In my image posted above the DIY installer(s) simply needs to avoid the area where marked and perhaps a bit wider due to the square aluminum frame.

Use the washer screws already in the C7 (3 in front & 2 in back) that holds up the rocker panel and simply space out about 4 or 5 more holes, insert the scrivets. The plastic scrivets can not be seen.
Great idea Strake to sink the drill bit into the drill exposing only a small amount of the drill bit.

Once the installer does the first side skirt, the second one will be a breeze. A second hand from wife, friend or kids would be helpful once the OEM washer screws are secured. Then it's a one man install drilling the extra 4 or 5 holes 5/16" drill bit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

..
Old 10-20-2016, 12:18 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by nmvettec7
Oh, so you used the push/lock type, Strake used the body panel/fender type. I think i found the ones he used:

https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Chrysler...D5EAESFK9HFKKE
Old 10-20-2016, 12:26 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by \Boost Monkey/
Oh, so you used the push/lock type, Strake used the body panel/fender type. I think i found the ones he used:

https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Chrysler...D5EAESFK9HFKKE
Either scrivet would work. I do kike Strake's better than ones I used, but I have not had any problems with the scrivets falling out of the holes. There are a good tight fit.

I drilled a 5/16th hole but perhaps a 1/4" would have been better. As stated no problems reported.

..
Old 10-20-2016, 12:28 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by nmvettec7
Either scrivet would work. I do kike Strake's better than ones I used, but I have not had any problems with the scrivets falling out of the holes. There are a good tight fit.

I drilled a 5/16th hole but perhaps a 1/4" would have been better. As stated no problems reported.

..
Ya I think either with 3M tape additionally should keep these things on if my C7 was being carried under the belly of a 747.
Old 01-23-2017, 02:29 AM
  #26  
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We just installed mine this afternoon... The good: They look fabulous!!! The bad: Neither of the rear holes matched up to the factory screws! Not even remotely close. I expected better from C7 Carbon. And the front holes needed drilled out slightly to allow for lining up the ends perfectly. C7 knows it is an issue for the GS, yet has not resolved it. But regardless, they do fit the contours perfect and seem to be great quality so far!

Sending out big thanks to C7Jske for posting about the 3m tape. I found that exact product at O'Reilleys and used it. (2 packs necessary for anyone considering it).

Huge thanks to Graj6 also, as he was the one who recommended the skirts to me, along with buying them from BER, which was a great transaction!

And more thanks to Strake.. for the suggestion and link to the scrivets! They worked great!!

And just an FYI, we did drill (super carefully) in the area where some have said not to, because of wires... there were no wires at all anywhere that we drilled using the existing holes on the skirts.

Best.Husband.Ever:
Old 01-23-2017, 02:40 AM
  #27  
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@17GS, You're welcome. Your car looks great with those skirts on. BER (or whatever he calls his shop now) is wonderful to work with and very responsive. Also, very quick shipping and a great price.

And great choice of color on your car (Yes, I'm biased towards yellow)

Yes, the rear holes don't align and that happened with a change in the bolt holes on the widebody 17s. Using the pre-drilled holes with the rear stock bolts leads to the skirts getting pulled too far under. Mine was one of the first 17 GSs their C7 skirts went on, so they didn't know quite what was wrong, but my dealership was nice enough to get in touch with C7Carbon. I don't think the Stingray hole locations changed though - so I don't quite know how they would pre-drill for both cases (though that might be possible).

Perhaps C7 Carbon should at least put in a warning and install guide that shows the difference.
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Old 01-23-2017, 10:11 AM
  #28  
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Correct, As stated above, the rear holes do not line up for use on the GS. I believe it was graj6 who for warned me about it, so I was prepared. I loosely attached the front ones, and then took a dab of red paint right onto the head of the rear bolts ( already broke loose). I then raised the skirt straight up to make contact with the red paint on the bolt heads and it nicely marked where to drill new holes in the rear end of the GTX skirts. I did my install in my garage just jacking up one side of the car at a time.

Worked perfectly, and it all aligned great. The holes are off location by about 1 inch. No big deal.

Last edited by Strake; 01-23-2017 at 10:12 AM.
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Old 01-23-2017, 03:49 PM
  #29  
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Mine are sitting in the garage waiting for the rest of parts.

Going on a Z51 though, so holes should line up... Hopefully.
Old 01-23-2017, 04:26 PM
  #30  
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They will line up..... it was just on GS or Z06 that the rear holes don't align.
Old 01-24-2017, 05:25 PM
  #31  
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2016 Z51 here, used factory front/rear screws and double sided tape, might eventually use the supplied rivets and the rear holes lined up perfect
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Old 01-24-2017, 10:55 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by \Boost Monkey/
Mine are sitting in the garage waiting for the rest of parts.

Going on a Z51 though, so holes should line up... Hopefully.
Put C7 on y Z51 with perfect hole alignment and only used 3 black rivets per side along with the 5 stock bolts;
Old 09-19-2017, 06:31 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 17gs
We just installed mine this afternoon... The good: They look fabulous!!! The bad: Neither of the rear holes matched up to the factory screws! Not even remotely close. I expected better from C7 Carbon. And the front holes needed drilled out slightly to allow for lining up the ends perfectly. C7 knows it is an issue for the GS, yet has not resolved it. But regardless, they do fit the contours perfect and seem to be great quality so far!

Sending out big thanks to C7Jske for posting about the 3m tape. I found that exact product at O'Reilleys and used it. (2 packs necessary for anyone considering it).

Huge thanks to Graj6 also, as he was the one who recommended the skirts to me, along with buying them from BER, which was a great transaction!

And more thanks to Strake.. for the suggestion and link to the scrivets! They worked great!!

And just an FYI, we did drill (super carefully) in the area where some have said not to, because of wires... there were no wires at all anywhere that we drilled using the existing holes on the skirts.

Best.Husband.Ever:
for those of you speaking of the holes not lining up on the side skirt from C7 Carbon, was it the GTX version or the Z06 style? i was told the GTX version they do ling up
Old 09-19-2017, 06:33 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by genovette
for those of you speaking of the holes not lining up on the side skirt from C7 Carbon, was it the GTX version or the Z06 style? i was told the GTX version they do ling up
Mine were the GTX style. I don't know if they made any hole alterations lately, but at the time, they sure as hell didn't line up right.
Old 09-19-2017, 06:45 PM
  #35  
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the GTX style are a little more expensive and shaped almost identical, I was thinking of them over the Z06 style because you have a better opportunity to attach from underneath, it seams and not use side screws as shown on their site for the Z06, is that why you did as well?
Old 09-19-2017, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by graj6
Mine were the GTX style. I don't know if they made any hole alterations lately, but at the time, they sure as hell didn't line up right.
That's because the GTX style are designed for a narrow body Stingray not the wide body GS or Zo6.
Old 09-19-2017, 07:11 PM
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last question, so once you made some new holes and tapped them in, what fastener and or 3M double sided tape did you use, and are you pleased now with the results?

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Old 09-20-2017, 01:27 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by C7Jake
taped full length of rocker contour > factory screws + 1/4" snap lock scrivets on bottom side
factory screws + scrivets on splitter
skirt bottoms coated w/Rocker Guard





I did the same here. Let me tell you this it was a BIG PITA to get them off also. I am doing a z06 conv now on the car & these was are will not come off at all with the screw on each end & the tape all the way down the piece... Robert
Old 09-20-2017, 07:38 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by genovette
the GTX style are a little more expensive and shaped almost identical, I was thinking of them over the Z06 style because you have a better opportunity to attach from underneath, it seams and not use side screws as shown on their site for the Z06, is that why you did as well?
The increased attachment area underneath with the GTX is why I did them. So they'd stay better if people mistakenly hit them stepping out or in.

Originally Posted by genovette
last question, so once you made some new holes and tapped them in, what fastener and or 3M double sided tape did you use, and are you pleased now with the results?
Screws.... Used screws, no tape whatsoever. They are rock solid.
Old 09-21-2017, 08:22 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by robert miller
I did the same here. Let me tell you this it was a BIG PITA to get them off also. I am doing a z06 conv now on the car & these was are will not come off at all with the screw on each end & the tape all the way down the piece... Robert
I was afraid of that as I need to remove mine and repaint.



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