Foosh

Sorry to hear that. This is the first malfunction I've ever seen reported. It clearly sounds like something went wrong when you were messing around with the firmware.

It does remind me to not mess with mine at all, because I'm thrilled with it out of the box from DSC. I think it was brave of Mike to leave the device programmable.

BrunoTheMellow

its good now. unplug = disconnect rfrom car. when i did that it went smoothly.

0DSC Sport

Simple solution after installing firmware you need to unplug the board completely for a moment to do a hard reboot
That's it

stevestig

Sorry if this was answered before. How do i tell what firmware version i have from WIFI, and how do i tell what the latest version available is from DSC?

i see the filename "PasmC7Venc_1_11_17" from the website, but not a version. I am guessing the date is the version that i can see somehow from the interface?

thanks.

64drvr

For a C7Z06, would you recommend installing z07 springs/sway bushings with the dsc controller?

cheapthrills

Jupiter here, Have had my board in and out several times, 20 min job at the most and I'm not a wrencher. Want moral support to do the job bring your car down here I'll give you a hand. A local shop in Jupiter can also do the alignment if you want to get that done.

Foosh

With a DSC Sport controller, all MSRC cars will perform dramatically better because of better and more sophisticated shock control as a result of more sensor inputs to predict and set the shocks according to what the car is doing at any given (micro) second. The OEM MSRC controller programming is very crude in comparison, with regard to the shock adjustments being made.

Any other OEM suspension "upgrades" can be an incremental benefit, IF they fit your intended use. The may provide no benefit or add negatives for some uses. Adding the Z07 suspension bits seems like total overkill to me, unless it's a frequent track car.

village idiot

So my home track has **** for surface (fortunately, under new ownership that will repave soon) and my shocks freak out on the main straight over bumps at +100mph. It's stiffening and softening basically at random because the bumps are so quick at that speed that even DSC can't keep up.

I actually think there might be some braking going on, even in sport 2.

a) can braking happen in sport 2
b) how should I correct for that?

also, I'm going to add stage 3 aero, add front air dam and lower about an inch (yeah, I know, but it's also a street car and it looks 10x better lowered). I have it zeroed for the statitic ride height but it's definitely going to be lower at speed due to aero (and lower will probably improve down force). Do I need to worry about that? If the Z07 is lower by +1 inch from aero, I'm sure my softer GS suspension is even lower.


Source: http://www.caranddriver.com/features...p-2015-feature




"In other words, the tall wickerbill-equipped spoiler on the Z06’s tail increases rear tire loading with speed, driving the body closer to the ground. At 145 mph, the rear of the car is more than an inch lower than the Z06’s static height."

why1504

Does anyone have a video of performing this Install on a C7?

Dif

No video but this thread has instructions and Pictures from a few people and lots of discussion.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ontroller.html

why1504

This is very helpful.

I am not sure how I will run the USB cable but I think I will snake it into the engine bay coil it up and hide it.

In talking to DSC, you can do everything except firmware updates via WiFi. I am running the cable because I have carbon fiber spat/splash guards I don't want to remove / replace and risk breaking.

Dif

^ IMO it's worth it to run the cable making it much easier using the desk top DSC software.
I ran the cable down into the fender near the Washer Fluid filler tube.
Just under/near the hood latch there's a small opening and I fished the cable down through it.
FYI, the cable comes out on the other side of the wall that the controller is mounted to.
Then pull it up under inside the fender where the Controller is and plug it in.
I coiled the rest of the cable that's inside the engine bay and placed it over the neck of the Washer Fluid filler tube.
Also capped off the end of the cable to keep the USB connector clean.
Then close everything up and it's done.

Citation

What style USB plug does the box use? Micro, standard, etc? What would be a good length cable to buy, to leave in there attached?

Dif

It's a Mini-USB cable and recommend one at least 8 feet long.
With the 8 footer it's long enough so you can sit in the car with it plugged into a Laptop to Zero the shocks.
There are cables with a 90 degree angle head to plug into the controller, but I couldn't find one longer than 6 feet so used a straight one,.. YMMV
Here's what the Controller input looks like for the Mini USB.

why1504

Here is what DSC advised me to purchase:

vette_fly

For those of you that have upgraded to the Tractive shocks, can you comment on how they perform on the street. Are advantages of the Tractive DDAs mainly on the track?

Dif

Just an FYI ...
Nothing wrong with using that one except it's only 6 feet ( 180CM ) and you'll want to get an extension.
Reason being, initially you need to sit in the drivers seat to Zero the shocks.
And if you run the cable out from the engine compartment, it's not long enough to reach the laptop sitting on your lap
You only need to Zero the shocks once after installing the Controller.
Afterwards, changes to the settings can be done with the laptop on a table beside the car.
The 6 feet will be fine then

Citation

Dif - just to clarify so no one buys the wrong cable. The port shown in the picture is a mini-USB, not micro. The cable in the amazon link above is also a mini, not micro. The industry has so many terms for USB cables, its easy to get them mixed up!

Dif

Thanks, I corrected my post

why1504

That is in fact my plan.