DSC Sport Magnetic Shock controller observations
#861
My controller was shipped into the office while I was on business travel. After a week I finally got it installed this afternoon. It is raining here but I went down to the garage, connected via wifi, went to settings and pressed the Zero Travel button. Tomorrow I will get her out and give her a spin. Fwiw, I could sense improvement driving home after the install. Just didn't have time to figure out the wifi earlier.
Thanks to all for the advise.
Thanks to all for the advise.
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Foosh (08-12-2017)
#862
Racer
Load Google Chrome onto your iPhone. You should be able to make a connection using that browser. Safari doesn't seem to work.
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Foosh (08-12-2017)
#863
for track days I have ptm sport 1 set to 50% front 50% rear (normal), sport 2 to 65/70, race 70/75. I haven't tried the race setting but the sport 2 setting gave better results than sport 1. (Higher rear because I have thicker profile rear tires giving more cushion)
I adjusted the shock calibration table for the mA settings.
I adjusted the speed tables for the mph settings.
Dif, in steady driving, You should not be seeing any Gs if maybe 0.05 so the g comfort parameter changes you made should not really affect highway driving (I might be wrong here, the name for each parameter is kind of cryptic ). I kept the 0% shock table at 1 mA and the next block at 100 mA since the g comfort calls for 1% this should be about 30 mA. At 60 mph, the speed table adds 5%, my 5% is about 160 mA, so fairly stiff in relation, 70 mph is 10% which is about 200 mA, 80 mph is 15%, etc. I don't want to be switching back and forth from tour to sport anytime I get on a highway but I don't mind it being slightly stiffer otherwise. This is my weekend toy anyhow and I want a very stable car at high speeds first, comfort 2nd.
I could also do a mathematical approach and make the shock tables match a z06 in stiffness by multiplying a factor based on the different spring rates. Then everything else could remain as DSC programmed but are the magnetic shocks the same part #? Are they valved the same? I am also on hankook RS3s which have softer sidewalls than the ZPs so that makes my effective total spring rate also softer.
Last edited by BrunoTheMellow; 08-12-2017 at 08:08 PM.
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Dif (08-13-2017)
#864
Melting Slicks
Mike, sorry for the Confusion, I was referring to DSC sport Mike.
for track days I have ptm sport 1 set to 50% front 50% rear (normal), sport 2 to 65/70, race 70/75. I haven't tried the race setting but the sport 2 setting gave better results than sport 1. (Higher rear because I have thicker profile rear tires giving more cushion)
I adjusted the shock calibration table for the mA settings.
I adjusted the speed tables for the mph settings.
Dif, in steady driving, You should not be seeing any Gs if maybe 0.05 so the g comfort parameter changes you made should not really affect highway driving (I might be wrong here, the name for each parameter is kind of cryptic ). I kept the 0% shock table at 1 mA and the next block at 100 mA since the g comfort calls for 1% this should be about 30 mA. At 60 mph, the speed table adds 5%, my 5% is about 160 mA, so fairly stiff in relation, 70 mph is 10% which is about 200 mA, 80 mph is 15%, etc. I don't want to be switching back and forth from tour to sport anytime I get on a highway but I don't mind it being slightly stiffer otherwise. This is my weekend toy anyhow and I want a very stable car at high speeds first, comfort 2nd.
I could also do a mathematical approach and make the shock tables match a z06 in stiffness by multiplying a factor based on the different spring rates. Then everything else could remain as DSC programmed but are the magnetic shocks the same part #? Are they valved the same? I am also on hankook RS3s which have softer sidewalls than the ZPs so that makes my effective total spring rate also softer.
for track days I have ptm sport 1 set to 50% front 50% rear (normal), sport 2 to 65/70, race 70/75. I haven't tried the race setting but the sport 2 setting gave better results than sport 1. (Higher rear because I have thicker profile rear tires giving more cushion)
I adjusted the shock calibration table for the mA settings.
I adjusted the speed tables for the mph settings.
Dif, in steady driving, You should not be seeing any Gs if maybe 0.05 so the g comfort parameter changes you made should not really affect highway driving (I might be wrong here, the name for each parameter is kind of cryptic ). I kept the 0% shock table at 1 mA and the next block at 100 mA since the g comfort calls for 1% this should be about 30 mA. At 60 mph, the speed table adds 5%, my 5% is about 160 mA, so fairly stiff in relation, 70 mph is 10% which is about 200 mA, 80 mph is 15%, etc. I don't want to be switching back and forth from tour to sport anytime I get on a highway but I don't mind it being slightly stiffer otherwise. This is my weekend toy anyhow and I want a very stable car at high speeds first, comfort 2nd.
I could also do a mathematical approach and make the shock tables match a z06 in stiffness by multiplying a factor based on the different spring rates. Then everything else could remain as DSC programmed but are the magnetic shocks the same part #? Are they valved the same? I am also on hankook RS3s which have softer sidewalls than the ZPs so that makes my effective total spring rate also softer.
I cant say I'm up to speed on all the tables yet so this will take a while to soak in. I was able to get my wifes old laptop to connect via wifi tonight. So I know how to connect but it is different and will also take another learning curve to get up to speed there.
I have two days of autocross coming up next weekend and hope to be able to try the file I built to see if the modest changes I made make a difference or not.
I'm with you on the wish list for tour, comfort but stable at speed. Save Sport as DSC recommends for now but make Track set up to optimize Autocross.
I can;t answer your questions on the MSR Shocks.
Happy hunting!
Ammo Mike
#865
To answer an earlier question, I know of other Z07 cars that are running the controller including one of the early customers. However, both Mike's car and my car that we did a lot of the testing on were Z06 cars.
I've only had a little bit of track time with my new Z07 and the controller but I am fighting some alignment and tire issues (pro tip: make sure you tighten the jam nut on the rear toe links). However, my sense is that the car is too stiff on a bumpy track like Summit Point with the VIR settings and the Z07 springs. It probably works really well on a smooth track like VIR.
I want to play with softening the shocks at the next Summit Point event in early September but this may be my only shot as they are repaving the track after that.
I've only had a little bit of track time with my new Z07 and the controller but I am fighting some alignment and tire issues (pro tip: make sure you tighten the jam nut on the rear toe links). However, my sense is that the car is too stiff on a bumpy track like Summit Point with the VIR settings and the Z07 springs. It probably works really well on a smooth track like VIR.
I want to play with softening the shocks at the next Summit Point event in early September but this may be my only shot as they are repaving the track after that.
#866
Le Mans Master
To answer an earlier question, I know of other Z07 cars that are running the controller including one of the early customers. However, both Mike's car and my car that we did a lot of the testing on were Z06 cars.
I've only had a little bit of track time with my new Z07 and the controller but I am fighting some alignment and tire issues (pro tip: make sure you tighten the jam nut on the rear toe links). However, my sense is that the car is too stiff on a bumpy track like Summit Point with the VIR settings and the Z07 springs. It probably works really well on a smooth track like VIR.
I want to play with softening the shocks at the next Summit Point event in early September but this may be my only shot as they are repaving the track after that.
I've only had a little bit of track time with my new Z07 and the controller but I am fighting some alignment and tire issues (pro tip: make sure you tighten the jam nut on the rear toe links). However, my sense is that the car is too stiff on a bumpy track like Summit Point with the VIR settings and the Z07 springs. It probably works really well on a smooth track like VIR.
I want to play with softening the shocks at the next Summit Point event in early September but this may be my only shot as they are repaving the track after that.
Anyway, I did a day with and without DSC and it was vastly different. In track mode without DSC my car was bouncing all over. With DSC, it wasn't smooth, but holy cow, it felt like a real racetrack. I was able to brake so much harder because my tires stayed on the ground.
Granted- I dont know where my GS springs are comparison to Z06.
#867
Safety Car
Member Since: Mar 2009
Location: Northeast MA & Mad Beach FL
Posts: 4,101
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In regards to Spring rates with the DSC Controller and how it works.
It's been mentioned before but thinks it worth mentioning again.
The tires play a big part in the Spring rate depending on the tire PSI, and whether it's a Run Flat or Non Run Flat.
In my case I always ran my tires 28 psi cold because when they warmed up the car rode better.
Hot the tires ran 30-32 psi.
If I started with 30 psi the tires ran 33-34/35 psi hot and the ride was rough.
When I first installed the the DSC Controller in winter weather, I still ran 28 PSI.
When warmer weather appeared, I forgot to adjust the psi back to 28 and found the Ride, and Handling improved.
It was directly related to increased tire psi with the warmer/hot weather.
The Controller receives better feedback from increases spring rate in the tires.
I run 30 psi now with a Noticeable improvement
It's been mentioned before but thinks it worth mentioning again.
The tires play a big part in the Spring rate depending on the tire PSI, and whether it's a Run Flat or Non Run Flat.
In my case I always ran my tires 28 psi cold because when they warmed up the car rode better.
Hot the tires ran 30-32 psi.
If I started with 30 psi the tires ran 33-34/35 psi hot and the ride was rough.
When I first installed the the DSC Controller in winter weather, I still ran 28 PSI.
When warmer weather appeared, I forgot to adjust the psi back to 28 and found the Ride, and Handling improved.
It was directly related to increased tire psi with the warmer/hot weather.
The Controller receives better feedback from increases spring rate in the tires.
I run 30 psi now with a Noticeable improvement
#868
That's strange you say that. My home track is Eagle's Canyon, and it is the worst race track surface I've ever even heard of. It's not even a race track anymore (fortunately, new owners are fixing that). On my bike, my brake marker "after the third bump/wheelie, wait half a second and brake" in the main straight. There are braking zones where I have to stop braking because of the bumps, then start braking again. Traction control kicks on in the main straight. It's really rough.
Anyway, I did a day with and without DSC and it was vastly different. In track mode without DSC my car was bouncing all over. With DSC, it wasn't smooth, but holy cow, it felt like a real racetrack. I was able to brake so much harder because my tires stayed on the ground.
Granted- I dont know where my GS springs are comparison to Z06.
Anyway, I did a day with and without DSC and it was vastly different. In track mode without DSC my car was bouncing all over. With DSC, it wasn't smooth, but holy cow, it felt like a real racetrack. I was able to brake so much harder because my tires stayed on the ground.
Granted- I dont know where my GS springs are comparison to Z06.
#869
Originally Posted by village idiot
That's strange you say that. My home track is Eagle's Canyon, and it is the worst race track surface I've ever even heard of. It's not even a race track anymore (fortunately, new owners are fixing that). On my bike, my brake marker "after the third bump/wheelie, wait half a second and brake" in the main straight. There are braking zones where I have to stop braking because of the bumps, then start braking again. Traction control kicks on in the main straight. It's really rough.
Anyway, I did a day with and without DSC and it was vastly different. In track mode without DSC my car was bouncing all over. With DSC, it wasn't smooth, but holy cow, it felt like a real racetrack. I was able to brake so much harder because my tires stayed on the ground.
Granted- I dont know where my GS springs are comparison to Z06.
Anyway, I did a day with and without DSC and it was vastly different. In track mode without DSC my car was bouncing all over. With DSC, it wasn't smooth, but holy cow, it felt like a real racetrack. I was able to brake so much harder because my tires stayed on the ground.
Granted- I dont know where my GS springs are comparison to Z06.
#870
Le Mans Master
On exit, I didn't really notice a problem. I have 200 less horses so it's not as hard to get the power down. I can't recall the difference with DSC, but I want to say it made it a little easier.
#871
Does anyone know if the Z51 and Z06 shocks are different? I can't find any info on that. I've read that the z07 shocks are valved different from z06.
I am trying to mathematically adjust the #s for track mode shock calibration table prior to my next track day. The z06 front springs are 50% stiffer, rear springs 15% stiffer. Averaging those numbers gives 20% stiffer springs for z06s.
20% stiffer (70%) across the board for ptm sport 2 sounds good. I tried 15% stiffer and it "felt" better on track but I was running the track a different orientation. This makes sense with my calculations. Sport 1 I'll run 60%.
I'll share my settings afterwards.
is it worth it for DSC to calibrate a z51 vehicle standalone from the Z06? Would the sales boost make up for the time spent?
I am trying to mathematically adjust the #s for track mode shock calibration table prior to my next track day. The z06 front springs are 50% stiffer, rear springs 15% stiffer. Averaging those numbers gives 20% stiffer springs for z06s.
20% stiffer (70%) across the board for ptm sport 2 sounds good. I tried 15% stiffer and it "felt" better on track but I was running the track a different orientation. This makes sense with my calculations. Sport 1 I'll run 60%.
I'll share my settings afterwards.
is it worth it for DSC to calibrate a z51 vehicle standalone from the Z06? Would the sales boost make up for the time spent?
Last edited by BrunoTheMellow; 08-15-2017 at 11:50 PM.
#872
Former Vendor
Keep in mind that the G Table significantly reduces the shock stiffness in low G conditions (depending on your G Comfort Parameter settings) so changing the shock calibration settings won't have as big of an influence at steady highway speeds as changes in the Speed table. I'd try increasing the Speed table settings to reduce float or play with the low and medium Velocity settings (see my other post about some nuances). Or perhaps increase your G Comfort default setting.
Have fun
you can get way more performance with the Tractive damper full high speed control as it is a non mag and has a race piston with full shim stack with DDA valve
#873
All of the mag shocks have similar valving. the mag shock comprises of an orifice in the piston in basic terms there are check valves and the piston is the coil. the calibration is based on load!!! since the nature of a bleed only you are all low speed control. I expect the cal table to be really close the mag shock low speed control is amazing and really supports the car. test with the base file first Im glad to help with setup make sure to pay attention to the setup rear caster is king get the setup right and you dont need alot of spring . I think and the laptimes have been supporting this we are getting equal if not better laptimes on the fe6 to fe7. I love a soft compliant car
Have fun
you can get way more performance with the Tractive damper full high speed control as it is a non mag and has a race piston with full shim stack with DDA valve
Have fun
you can get way more performance with the Tractive damper full high speed control as it is a non mag and has a race piston with full shim stack with DDA valve
#874
Melting Slicks
Note they have updated the Firmware. Says it is a major Update. I downloaded it and uploaded a new PDTS file I built for the weekend Autocross coming up.
Please note that the Accel Table looks different again? It no longer has the Launch End and Launch Start blocks? ....or..am I missing something?
Thanks
AmmoMike
#875
Pro
Were you able to do the firmware update over wifi? I was behind on doing that and spent the afternoon getting the wifi working which was fairly easy. If I have to crawl back in there with a USB cable I'll probably skip it.
#876
last I reloaded the firmware I had to unplug the board from car to reboot the card. Also, firmware date on website still says 1-11-17 for c7. Sure it's new ?
Last edited by BrunoTheMellow; 08-18-2017 at 06:09 PM.
#877
Melting Slicks
Last edited by AmmoVet; 08-18-2017 at 06:20 PM.
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stevestig (08-18-2017)
#878
Race Director
Here's a link to download the new firmware - it's dated 8-14-17:
http://dscsport.us10.list-manage.com...2&e=0db7ca3216
.
http://dscsport.us10.list-manage.com...2&e=0db7ca3216
.
Last edited by BEZ06; 08-18-2017 at 07:44 PM.
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Nyvetteguy007 (08-18-2017),
stevestig (08-18-2017)
#879
ah you're right, once you DL it, it says 8-14. Gosh darn it, I just pulled the board out a couple weeks back to reload firmware, not fun to do. Wish we had details on what changed. The video explains how the velocity table works but not the difference.
#880
Safety Car
Member Since: Mar 2009
Location: Northeast MA & Mad Beach FL
Posts: 4,101
Received 716 Likes
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Here's the YouTube training video for checking the Firmware version on the Controller .... and how to Update the Firmware.
The video shows how to download the firmware file.
But be aware, you'll want to use the link BEZ06 posted ( post #878 ) and use/save the newest Version 08-14-2017 ...
I saved it to my desk top to access it.
Note: Mike mentions unplugging the Controller from the car during the Firmware Update.
Or... make sure the car is completely Off, no Accessory mode or Ignition mode during the Update.
I believe, when he talks about rebooting the Controller, in lieu of not unplugging the Controller itself, it's done by unplugging and plugging back in the USB connector from the Laptop.
Correct me if I'm wrong
The video shows how to download the firmware file.
But be aware, you'll want to use the link BEZ06 posted ( post #878 ) and use/save the newest Version 08-14-2017 ...
I saved it to my desk top to access it.
Note: Mike mentions unplugging the Controller from the car during the Firmware Update.
Or... make sure the car is completely Off, no Accessory mode or Ignition mode during the Update.
I believe, when he talks about rebooting the Controller, in lieu of not unplugging the Controller itself, it's done by unplugging and plugging back in the USB connector from the Laptop.
Correct me if I'm wrong
Last edited by Dif; 08-18-2017 at 08:24 PM.