itch808

I went into Device manager and clicked remove or uninstall driver. Then re-installed it, didn't work. The other laptop I tried was my old trusty T400 running windows 7. I installed the Windows 7 driver for that one (duh) and had the exact same problem. I'm not saying it couldn't be the USB driver, but I tried two different versions.

AmmoVet

I don't mean to change the drift of the current conversation but I have a related question. I too find the log in and update process buggy but so far I have not had a problem with my links between my car and my laptop. However, when I try to update my friends car with both the firmware and software I can never get it to work. Is any of this stuff linked to a serial number or name when you down load the firmware or is it open once you log in?

Dif

No it shouldn't matter.
I updated my friends car with my Laptop a few times no problem

Dif

FYI: kensredvette2
Here's my Custom pdts file for your consideration

kensredvette2

Itch,
I have had connection problems as well until quite recently.

You might look at post 1510...that can be of help for choosing the particular driver parameters for communication to the DSC unit.

You are on the right track... go to windows device manager when the DSC controller is attached to the USB port. Find the serial driver, click 'uninstall' and also click 'delete driver' box when doing the uninstall. ( You want to get rid of that W10 Universal driver)

DSC provides a link to the Silab serial drivers and download the 'Windows 7/8/10' version which should be v6,7,5.1893.
Download those drivers (NOT THE UNIVERSAL).

(Optional - DELETE any of the Silab UNIVERSAL installation file directorys on your computer that you downloaded before - not required but reduces possible confusion for windows when finding a driver).

Then install those drivers for windows 7/8/10 using the silab install program or with windows device manager when the DSC controller is attached. (preferably with windows device manager when the DSC controller is attached so you can point windows to exactly the driver directory you want)

Follow serial port connection settings as in post 1510 in this thread, which is IMPORTANT.

AmmoVet

I have a 32 bit system running windows 7. Do I use x64 or x86 application?

badhabit_wb

x86

SFCTeach

Today hit 81 degrees in NY. I decided it was time to load the December base file and see how the touring mode feels. I really liked it, the floaty feel is no longer there and I was comfortable driving around in it. Usually, I only switch to touring on rough roads.

jwbert

Seems the uninstall does not actually remove the non working driver,(UNIVERSAL) and even though you install the correct one, the bad one is still causing problems.
I did not have to change the baud rate as stated in post 1510.

wjresq

And, one more suggestion. If you have done multiple installations on your computer of the wrong driver, all of those copies need to be removed. You do that by repeating the process above. That is, after doing the Uninstall/Delete process in DevMgr, unplug the Controller from the USB port and then plug it in again. If you see the SiLab driver pops up again under the COM section of DevMgr, repeat the process to delete that copy. Repeat the process until you don't see any more SiLab drivers pop up in DevMgr. (You will ultimately see a generic UART driver pop up, which is fine.) At that point, do a final unplug of the board and install the correct driver, then plug the board in. Set the Port speed in DevMgr to 19200. Open Tuner, go the Serial Settings and check that the COM port number matches that in DevMgr and that the speed is 57600. All should then work fine.

wjresq

When I got my new DSC board to as part of dealing with the driver issues that I've discussed here, Tom Chan of DSC put a custom PTDS file in it to provide a slighter firmer setting below 0.3g, saying that the softer map is the one available on the DSC website. That PTDS file is attached. Following up on the excellent analysis of the G Comfort parameters by kensredvette2 and the post of the Frank ptds file by Dif, below are the G parameters of the Chan and Frank files for comparison:

1. Chan:

Default: 5.0
Offset 100.0
Sensitivity: 20
G Rate Max: 30.0

2. Frank:

Default 1.0
Offset: 100.0
Sensitivity: 20
G Rate Max: 35.0

spinkick

Sorry, I havent been following. Are these for z06 or stingray?



It seems a lot of these problems you guys are having are all IT related. Get a good IT guy to sit down with you and look at it. It will save you a lot of frustration. We arent all out to rip you off, and some of us love corvettes (most I'd imagine)

AmmoVet

joemessman

Most leave it at the default settings and it works great. But some guys like to fiddle around with the settings. That doesn't always work out for them. And it works for any Vette with MSRC.

wjresq

The Chan file was for the Z06. And the problems are not so much IT based as much as simply a lack of info from DSC on the communications interface and the blind transfer from the DSC site to the SiLabs site for the USB driver without some guidance as to which driver to choose.

0DSC Sport

Im sorry you had that experience but I take pride both myself and my employees and in getting involved with each and every customer. We were out of the office almost two weeks testing for the upcoming IMSA 12 hour race it is very possible you did fall between the cracks in that time, but we really try to help to support the way we would like to be helped. Right down to working with clients at the race track
Do try and reach us again 410 799 7223 or email sales@dscsport.com
If your having a com issue check the driver you are selecting if win 10 dont use the universal driver and make sure your win operating system is up to date with microsoft.
Im not sure how old your unit is but if you need it updated feel free to send it in for updates they are free just pay shipping
Best Regards
Michael Levitas

Dif

And to expand on this at the risk of being redundant
Those G table settings are Tour mode.

Regardless of Mode, the point kensredvette2 made, is the G table settings affect "when" the Comfort zone is exited from increased G forces on the car.
So the Ride could be Great and Comfortable but if it exits that comfort zone too soon, it loses that comfortable Ride.
Or if it leaves too late, Handling suffers.

In comparison, these are the Original G table settings in each mode in my DSC Controller I installed back in Feb 2017.
There was no Float whatsoever in any of the modes.

TOUR
Default 1.0
Offset: 100.0
Sensitivity: 20
G Rate Max: 35

SPORT
Default 1.0
Offset: 100.0
Sensitivity: 15
G Rate Max: 30

TRACK
Default 1.0
Offset: 100.0
Sensitivity: 15
G Rate Max: 30

Note that they're Very similar to Current 2018 settings.
And the Ride back then was improved but not night and day.
But the Handling was Noticeably more Improved.
That's not to say those Firmware and pdts files performed better than the Newest Updates we have now.

With that in mind, back to Feb 2017 when I wanted more Comfort in Tour and installed the Tour Plush file.

Tour PLUSH
Default 1.0
Offset: 100.0
Sensitivity: 25
G Rate Max: 35

Note the Sensitivity is increased which now takes more G Force to exit the Comfort zone.

The Tour Plush file had a Super Comfortable Ride.
But had extreme Float and Bounce over Dips and Humps in the road.
DSC recommended changing the G Default from 1.0 to 5.0 to tame the Float.
It seemed to help for some, but I didn't find it made much difference.

Being Sport and Track are both progressively stiffer, with only slight differences in the G table, I then compared the Shock Calibrations in Sport and Track to Tour.
And, compared Shock Calibrations in the Original Tour and Tour Plush.
There was a Big difference in the Shock Calibration between Tour and Tour Plush.

Shock Calibrations in Tour Plush were much softer than the Original Tour settings.

IMO, that's what makes the Biggest difference in Ride, before the car exits the Comfort zone G settings.

And as I mentioned in my other post:
I experimented controlling the ride by starting at the 0% block in Shock Calibrations for the Front by gradually increasing the ma progressively for each block, with the 100% block set at 1000 ma.
TSince the Float is more prevalent in the Rear, did the same for the Rear Shocks but input slightly higher ma in the beginning and ending with the 100% block at 1050 ma.
Naturally there were multiple changes and testing done with settings before I was happy

Summary:
This may not be the best way for everyone to get the results they want regardless of mode.
Clearly others are more adept at what and why certain changes should be made in any of the tables.

But so far, this method has yielded the best results for my Personal preferences in Tour.
I only make changes in the G Table and Shock Calibration.
The other tables can be changed for personal preference with specific purpose in mind, Track, Auto Cross etc.
For my needs, I trust those DSC settings to do what they're meant to do.
Not everyone will like or want, the same settings in Tour, for Ride and Handling.

But I recommend concentrating on the Shock Calibrations first.
Then work on the G table to fine tune when the car needs to exit the Comfort zone for Handling to your Preference.
YMMV and hope this helps someone

kensredvette2

As noted by many in the forum, the DSC controller offers not only performance improvements but options for tuning the steady state conditions. Steady state tuning gets attention because, after all, around 90% of the time is moving along at steady state (even in a vette). For example, the Number 1 feedback from the GM MRC update is how ‘the ride’ is improved.

A key reason for the post is to share my view that steady state tuning is rather straightforward, deals with only 2 of the DSC tuning tables, and is a significant contributor to the overall driving experience.

Another reason is to thank the forum members here for their input which has helped me sort things out and settle on a tuning that makes sense for me.

I will also mention that there is nothing wrong using with the DSC controller tuning as delivered. However, in addition to ‘out of the box’ improvement in performance and steady state parameters, there is that tuning option available that is not provided by the factory controller.

Damper Calibration Table

The main table is of course the damper calibration table, but the table boils down to 3 calibration curves or slight variations on those curves. Of course, the higher curves deliver overall higher damping compared to the lower curves.





DSC has used curves as shown for the plush, tour/sport, sport/track settings in their tuning software. The hybrid curve is my adaptation, but I think straying too far from the type of curve used by DSC is not advisable.

Dif provided his calibration file to the forum which also adjusts the bottom 10-20% of the tour curve and follows the style of the DSC plush curve. I find the same effect as Dif, that the bottom 10-20% of the plush style curve has a large effect on the ‘ride’. Personally, I also use the DSC plush style, but modified as shown in the ‘hybrid’ curve.

Gforce Table

A very important aspect of the Gforce tab in the software is the small table at the bottom that defines a ‘comfort zone’, which overrides the values in the Gtable during steady state conditions. I also find that the default ‘comfort zone’ values in the DSC files are very good starting points and you may find that no changes are needed.

Touring vs Sport?


Twisting that console dial from touring to sport also changes steering assist, NPP tuning, throttle response, transmission shift algorithm, V4 engagement, and perhaps other characteristics. All of those are good (and fun) things in my view.

But, I found myself asking – why should I tolerate a harsher suspension in sport mode during steady state conditions? For me, I had no reason for a harsher ride. Now my tuning is the same for tour and sport which follow that hybrid damper calibration curve. I use the default DSC values for Track.

Overall, tuning in your personal preferences for steady state is reasonably straightforward, only deals with a very few of the DSC tuning parameters, and affects something like 90% of your driving time.

BrunoTheMellow

Okay so I've been a fairly controversial user of the DSC controller. My car is a z51 I track often. It was setup full up on lowering bolts on the rear due to too tall tires. I got the dsc sport controller and then got an alignment with 0.05 mm toe out. The combination of those things caused the car to sway badly on large hills and dips at highway speeds. Note that I this only started after getting the DSC controller and alignment with toe out. Very unsettling feeling and I've been trying to mitigate it since by stiffening up the shocks.

Recently i went back to stock ride height, got an alignment with 0.5mm toe in, verified rear caster is at ~ 0.8° and the car rides 100x better on the highway. I get that the car toes in on compression and toe out may make it handle better at the track but it wasn't worth it for any other kind of driving.

I'll be at the track again in about 2 weeks to test it but I now have stage 3 aero and r compounds, so it won't be a fair comparison.

0DSC Sport

Bruno good work listen to the chassis. Toe is critical no two machines will give the same number and toe is so hard to get right. sometimes you have to string up the car to get the real number. it is important not ot go over -.5 or it will wander but always listen to your gut