DSC Sport Magnetic Shock controller observations
08-06-2017, 10:08 PM
#802
Melting Slicks
Cal files
For the C7 with stock msrc shocks there are two calibration files :
PTM/Velocity/Launch Control-TOURING PLUSH (requires LNC Firmware)
Dated 1-16-17
And
PTM/Velocity/Launch Control | VIR-tuned file for MRC dampers
Dated 4-18-17
Can anyone explain the differences?
PTM/Velocity/Launch Control-TOURING PLUSH (requires LNC Firmware)
Dated 1-16-17
And
PTM/Velocity/Launch Control | VIR-tuned file for MRC dampers
Dated 4-18-17
Can anyone explain the differences?
08-06-2017, 10:12 PM
#803
Race Director
Member Since: Jul 2007
Location: Texas Hill Country
Posts: 10,763
Received 2,379 Likes
on
1,238 Posts
one rides good on the street and one was adjusted based on virginia international raceway, presumably the track mode, specifically.
08-07-2017, 10:33 AM
#805
This is not exactly a simple component to manufacture. For the benefit one gains in both comfort and performance, it's a bargain.
I can't think of a single other $1200 component you can add to any car that will take multiple seconds off one's lap time. That is a substantial enhancement.
I can't think of a single other $1200 component you can add to any car that will take multiple seconds off one's lap time. That is a substantial enhancement.
Last edited by Foosh; 08-07-2017 at 10:34 AM.
08-07-2017, 01:47 PM
#806
Melting Slicks
The first snip compares the ACCEL file, note the Settings Edit Panel differences, the numbers are flipped from the VIR to the Plush. And the speed changed.
I assume the the right front number should be 25 not 26 on the VIR? Seems someone made a slight error, again, my assumption. But this is not the issue.
I repeat the question on this first set of panels is the change in speed and the flipped numbers between front and rears.
In the bottom set of panels to compare I see nothing on the VIR side in the PTM tables yet the fronts and rears are at 50% in the Plush edit panel.
Bottom Line: I am trying to understand this better so that I might be able to adjust my settings to perform better at AUTOCROSS and AUTOCROSS only. I don't track my car so the VIR settings and the PLUSH settings in RACE mode may not be the best setup for me.
In laymens terms can anyone suggest better settings for AUTOCROSS in all of the tables?
When the selector is in TOURING mode I want the PLUSH files but when I go to Autocross and run in TRACK mode I want an autocross monster!
We were encouraged to share data in a previous post if I remember correctly and my questions are in keeping with improving our experiences.
Thanks to All
Last edited by AmmoVet; 08-07-2017 at 02:17 PM.
08-07-2017, 02:07 PM
#807
Instructor
08-07-2017, 07:23 PM
#808
So the VIR file definitely has an issue with the PTM settings all being 0. The attached file is the VIR track settings with the PTM fixed and I also put the tour plush settings in the tour mode.
Last edited by Poor-sha; 08-07-2017 at 07:25 PM.
The following users liked this post:
BEZ06 (08-07-2017)
08-07-2017, 07:30 PM
#809
Ammo, I think you're running an old version of the software. The newer versions for launch control don't have the 1-10 in the accel table and my values don't match yours with the same VIR file.
As far as making an "autocross monster" I don't know what exactly would need to change from a vehicle dynamics. The VIR file isn't exclusive to VIR, that just happens to have been where the testing was done. Start with what I posted above and then give feedback on what the car is doing that you want to change. Mike has been really good and taking feedback on what the car is doing and suggesting changes.
As far as making an "autocross monster" I don't know what exactly would need to change from a vehicle dynamics. The VIR file isn't exclusive to VIR, that just happens to have been where the testing was done. Start with what I posted above and then give feedback on what the car is doing that you want to change. Mike has been really good and taking feedback on what the car is doing and suggesting changes.
08-07-2017, 07:45 PM
#810
Melting Slicks
Ammo, I think you're running an old version of the software. The newer versions for launch control don't have the 1-10 in the accel table and my values don't match yours with the same VIR file.
As far as making an "autocross monster" I don't know what exactly would need to change from a vehicle dynamics. The VIR file isn't exclusive to VIR, that just happens to have been where the testing was done. Start with what I posted above and then give feedback on what the car is doing that you want to change. Mike has been really good and taking feedback on what the car is doing and suggesting changes.
As far as making an "autocross monster" I don't know what exactly would need to change from a vehicle dynamics. The VIR file isn't exclusive to VIR, that just happens to have been where the testing was done. Start with what I posted above and then give feedback on what the car is doing that you want to change. Mike has been really good and taking feedback on what the car is doing and suggesting changes.
In the mean time if anyone has any further tips on adjusting the tables for AutoX please let me know.
08-07-2017, 08:03 PM
#812
just put the DSC module in this afternoon for 2016 Z06 with Z07 package; ordered from Katech on Friday afternoon with touring-plush calibration file loaded and arrived today- that's service. I have not had the DSC-recommended alignment yet...
install notes:
i did the installation without removing the left front wheel but otherwise, mostly followed the forum install write-up. If i upgrade to ZR-1 and take the module with me, i will certainly remove the wheel. it is a tight fit and my left arm shows for it with grooves and light abrasions. I had several battery powered LED flash lights bathing the area behind the wheel well liner and predominantly visualized the work through the vent holes as looking from the wheel well opening was too restricted at the same time as my arm was in the work area. Also, removing the module tray by removing the 10mm bolt is the only way i could see how the OEM module could be removed from the module tray whilst the wheel in place. once everything was buttoned up, i found a 2 meter mini usb still too short-3 meter probably would have been best. Total install time: about 1.5 hr. Both USB port and wifi worked as advertised.
As for the payoff...WOW!
with the OEM module, i always found the tour mode strangely non-compliant; better than sport for long drives, but unsettled/rough road still made for a jostled ride. I never used track mode on street as simply too rough and no confidence in the tail end holding on whilst power applied. I usually stayed in sport mode and practiced caution with the throttle, especially in turns so as to not break traction. With the DSC operating, the power can be applied much more aggressively and traction control works without any drama at the tail such as wagging/sideways thrusting. Furthermore, in all modes, the compliance of the ride and the confidence inspired by the suspension work is considerably better than OEM. Even DSC sport and track modes are quite a bit more 'comfortable' on rough northwest Ohio roads than all OEM offerings and the tour mode is down-right impressive for cruising about. The DSC module truly is transformative for this car. I am looking forward to more seat time...
rob.
install notes:
i did the installation without removing the left front wheel but otherwise, mostly followed the forum install write-up. If i upgrade to ZR-1 and take the module with me, i will certainly remove the wheel. it is a tight fit and my left arm shows for it with grooves and light abrasions. I had several battery powered LED flash lights bathing the area behind the wheel well liner and predominantly visualized the work through the vent holes as looking from the wheel well opening was too restricted at the same time as my arm was in the work area. Also, removing the module tray by removing the 10mm bolt is the only way i could see how the OEM module could be removed from the module tray whilst the wheel in place. once everything was buttoned up, i found a 2 meter mini usb still too short-3 meter probably would have been best. Total install time: about 1.5 hr. Both USB port and wifi worked as advertised.
As for the payoff...WOW!
with the OEM module, i always found the tour mode strangely non-compliant; better than sport for long drives, but unsettled/rough road still made for a jostled ride. I never used track mode on street as simply too rough and no confidence in the tail end holding on whilst power applied. I usually stayed in sport mode and practiced caution with the throttle, especially in turns so as to not break traction. With the DSC operating, the power can be applied much more aggressively and traction control works without any drama at the tail such as wagging/sideways thrusting. Furthermore, in all modes, the compliance of the ride and the confidence inspired by the suspension work is considerably better than OEM. Even DSC sport and track modes are quite a bit more 'comfortable' on rough northwest Ohio roads than all OEM offerings and the tour mode is down-right impressive for cruising about. The DSC module truly is transformative for this car. I am looking forward to more seat time...
rob.
The following users liked this post:
illmac77 (02-22-2018)
08-07-2017, 09:37 PM
#813
As for the payoff...WOW!
with the OEM module, i always found the tour mode strangely non-compliant; better than sport for long drives, but unsettled/rough road still made for a jostled ride. I never used track mode on street as simply too rough and no confidence in the tail end holding on whilst power applied. I usually stayed in sport mode and practiced caution with the throttle, especially in turns so as to not break traction. With the DSC operating, the power can be applied much more aggressively and traction control works without any drama at the tail such as wagging/sideways thrusting. Furthermore, in all modes, the compliance of the ride and the confidence inspired by the suspension work is considerably better than OEM. Even DSC sport and track modes are quite a bit more 'comfortable' on rough northwest Ohio roads than all OEM offerings and the tour mode is down-right impressive for cruising about. The DSC module truly is transformative for this car. I am looking forward to more seat time...
rob.
The following users liked this post:
BEZ06 (08-07-2017)
08-08-2017, 12:02 AM
#814
Melting Slicks
Ammo, I think you're running an old version of the software. The newer versions for launch control don't have the 1-10 in the accel table and my values don't match yours with the same VIR file.
As far as making an "autocross monster" I don't know what exactly would need to change from a vehicle dynamics. The VIR file isn't exclusive to VIR, that just happens to have been where the testing was done. Start with what I posted above and then give feedback on what the car is doing that you want to change. Mike has been really good and taking feedback on what the car is doing and suggesting changes.
As far as making an "autocross monster" I don't know what exactly would need to change from a vehicle dynamics. The VIR file isn't exclusive to VIR, that just happens to have been where the testing was done. Start with what I posted above and then give feedback on what the car is doing that you want to change. Mike has been really good and taking feedback on what the car is doing and suggesting changes.
08-08-2017, 12:32 PM
#815
Burning Brakes
I installed my controller this past weekend. I have Mac's so I borrowed a tablet from a friend. USB wouldn't work, so I went to wifi.
I tried to follow the instructions on the YouTube videos. And my computer illiteracy was shining through!
I had issues with car timing out and with the tablet staying with a connection. Not sure how to communicate with the controller. Do I have to let it now it is installed?
I tried to follow the instructions on the YouTube videos. And my computer illiteracy was shining through!
I had issues with car timing out and with the tablet staying with a connection. Not sure how to communicate with the controller. Do I have to let it now it is installed?
08-08-2017, 01:04 PM
#816
To prevent the car timing out, press the ignition button for 6 to 8 seconds without touching brake or clutch..then the car will electrically stay on. the USB port should work if car electrical system is energized...even before I implanted the module in the car, I hooked it up to windows laptop (I think windows OS is necessary for USB connection as the USB drivers from DSC website are only for Windows OS) with USB cable and could read the module and if needed, make changes. wifi works when car energized - can confirm with android phone....zeroed system with note 4 phone, so iphone/ mac should work with browser interface 10.10.10.1 after you connect your wifi to the dsc wifi broadcast and connect to it...
Rob
Rob
Last edited by mwlhrh; 08-08-2017 at 02:09 PM.
The following users liked this post:
AKKutz (08-08-2017)
08-08-2017, 01:10 PM
#817
Burning Brakes
To prevent the car timing out, press the ignition button for 6 to 8 seconds without touching brake or clutch..then the car will electrically stay on. the USB port should work if car electrical system is energized...even before I implanted the module in the car, I hooked it up to laptop with USB cable and could read the module and if needed, make changes. wifi works when car energized - can confirm with android phone....zeroed system with note 4 phone, so iphone/ mac should work with browser interface 10.10.10.1 after you connect your wifi to the dsc wifi broadcast and connect to it...
Rob
Rob
08-08-2017, 01:59 PM
#818
Shouldn't need to load any files unless you want to change calibration file or do a firmware update. once the module is in the vehicle and the electrical system on as described in my previous post(do not fire up the engine), just connect via wifi, zero the shocks and set up wifi password (for security), and go. the only reason you absolutely need a laptop appears to be for recording - can't get that to work on wifi - and firmware update; for those USB directed tasks, you will need windows based laptop as the USB drivers (on the dsc website) appear to be windows OS exclusive. ..
Rob
Rob
Last edited by mwlhrh; 08-08-2017 at 02:04 PM.
08-08-2017, 03:15 PM
#819
To prevent the car timing out, press the ignition button for 6 to 8 seconds without touching brake or clutch..then the car will electrically stay on. the USB port should work if car electrical system is energized...even before I implanted the module in the car, I hooked it up to windows laptop (I think windows OS is necessary for USB connection as the USB drivers from DSC website are only for Windows OS) with USB cable and could read the module and if needed, make changes. wifi works when car energized - can confirm with android phone....zeroed system with note 4 phone, so iphone/ mac should work with browser interface 10.10.10.1 after you connect your wifi to the dsc wifi broadcast and connect to it...
Rob
Rob
No files need to be uploaded as the controller comes preloaded with DSC's recommendations. The controller is ready to go as soon as it's plugged in. Zeroing shocks is all you should need to do, and that should happen with you in the driver's seat. Worst case, even if you can't figure out how to zero the shocks, the controller is still working and you'll see a noticeable difference.
Last edited by Foosh; 08-08-2017 at 03:18 PM.
08-08-2017, 05:11 PM
#820
Burning Brakes
Yes, WiFi does work with iPhone and Google Chrome browser.
No files need to be uploaded as the controller comes preloaded with DSC's recommendations. The controller is ready to go as soon as it's plugged in. Zeroing shocks is all you should need to do, and that should happen with you in the driver's seat. Worst case, even if you can't figure out how to zero the shocks, the controller is still working and you'll see a noticeable difference.
No files need to be uploaded as the controller comes preloaded with DSC's recommendations. The controller is ready to go as soon as it's plugged in. Zeroing shocks is all you should need to do, and that should happen with you in the driver's seat. Worst case, even if you can't figure out how to zero the shocks, the controller is still working and you'll see a noticeable difference.
So, how do you zero out the shocks?