HOW TO: Install DSC Sport Controller
#21
Melting Slicks
Mine looks the same with the USB port on the middle of the flat surface. I attached the cable and then slid the controller into place. It was tight and I just contorted the cable end to fit.
As for weather proofing the USB connection, I just slathered the connector in dielectric grease. No water getting in there now.
As for weather proofing the USB connection, I just slathered the connector in dielectric grease. No water getting in there now.
#22
Le Mans Master
I wanted to give a quick update on this. DSC Sport is taking care of me. They are sending me a new controller at no cost to me even though I caused the damage to the controller. It should be here next week and I have a right angle mini USB cable waiting for it.
I attempted to install my DSC Sport controller in my Z51 and encountered a problem. I got the old controller out (boy that back clip is hard to get to while keeping the front clip released) and the new controller set in place. However, I didn't have enough room to connect the mini USB cable to the controller. So I slid the controller forward, connected the cable, and attempted to push the controller back into position. Big mistake. The cable couldn't get by the vent and damaged the controller USB connector (bent the metal housing and broke the contact separator).
I couldn't understand why more people weren't having this problem and then discovered that my controller housing is different than the one in the installation pictures. That controller has a smaller housing and the USB connector is on the end. My controller's housing has the same footprint as the OEM controller and has the USB connection on the side. I seems that a cable with a right angle connector is required for this USB port location. (I don't feel so stupid now).
I've contacted DSC Sport via email to see what my options are but don't expect to hear back until next week.
Has anyone else installed this larger controller? How did you get the USB cable connected?
Thanks
I couldn't understand why more people weren't having this problem and then discovered that my controller housing is different than the one in the installation pictures. That controller has a smaller housing and the USB connector is on the end. My controller's housing has the same footprint as the OEM controller and has the USB connection on the side. I seems that a cable with a right angle connector is required for this USB port location. (I don't feel so stupid now).
I've contacted DSC Sport via email to see what my options are but don't expect to hear back until next week.
Has anyone else installed this larger controller? How did you get the USB cable connected?
Thanks
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#23
Le Mans Master
But now some may want to do this as I found it was worth the time to make room first.
I found it easier to access removing and installing the Controllers.
Forward Note:
Once I opened everything up, I just could Not unsnap both clips at once with everything still Inside the fender to remove the OEM Controller from the Box it sits in
--- I then Removed the Bolt shown holding the Box and removed the Box with the Controller still in it.
I found it easier to access removing and installing the Controllers.
Forward Note:
Once I opened everything up, I just could Not unsnap both clips at once with everything still Inside the fender to remove the OEM Controller from the Box it sits in
--- I then Removed the Bolt shown holding the Box and removed the Box with the Controller still in it.
I went for a short 30 minute test drive. The good news is there were no codes. Yes, there is a very noticeable differences, especially with Tour mode with the Plush file. I know they spent thousands of hours on developing this, but given the cost, I will have to try it out in more situations before rendering final judgement. Might be one of those cases where if you want to race, you gots to pays and no amount of $ is too much. At this point I am not saying it is a must have.
Last edited by Flame Red; 03-05-2017 at 02:04 PM.
#24
Safety Car
Member Since: Mar 2009
Location: Northeast MA & Mad Beach FL
Posts: 4,101
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^ Flame you're Welcome.
The more you drive it the more you will also notice the Performance benefits.
Mine a 2016 so I don't think anything is difference removing or installing the Controller.
Just not much room in there
The more you drive it the more you will also notice the Performance benefits.
Mine a 2016 so I don't think anything is difference removing or installing the Controller.
Just not much room in there
#25
Burning Brakes
#26
Melting Slicks
Thanks Dif - that is a great tip! I had the exact same experience. No room to slide it out. Just remove the 10mm bolt and remove the controller with the carrier. Maybe it is a 2015 thing - I donno.
I went for a short 30 minute test drive. The good news is there were no codes. Yes, there is a very noticeable differences, especially with Tour mode with the Plush file. I know they spent thousands of hours on developing this, but given the cost, I will have to try it out in more situations before rendering final judgement. Might be one of those cases where if you want to race, you gots to pays and no amount of $ is too much. At this point I am not saying it is a must have.
I went for a short 30 minute test drive. The good news is there were no codes. Yes, there is a very noticeable differences, especially with Tour mode with the Plush file. I know they spent thousands of hours on developing this, but given the cost, I will have to try it out in more situations before rendering final judgement. Might be one of those cases where if you want to race, you gots to pays and no amount of $ is too much. At this point I am not saying it is a must have.
#28
Track Rat
Thread Starter
I'm assuming that's directed at me. It's the Ranger Quickjack BL-5000. There are a number of threads about it on the forum. I set mine on top of a 4-post lift so I can get the car up higher.
#29
Melting Slicks
I just finished installing the controller in 2017 Z06.
These observations are when doing the job sitting on the floor with the wheel jacked up enough to remove it. If you are on a lift the operation may be somewhat easier.
First immediately go to post 12 in this thread so you can get an idea of what is actually inside the fender well. The DSC installation instructions are about useless except for what screws/push plugs to remove. Actually I removed a few more so I could get the inner liner loose and pushed towards the front and tied with a tie wrap through one of the holes to the upper a arm. Without the pictures in post 12 I may still have been screwing around with this. Many thanks to the forum member Dif who posted these photos. It is very difficult to see into the fender well while sitting on the floor (at least it was for me).
For me unsnapping the controller from its holder while in the car was next to impossible. By unsnapping the wire bundle connected to the controller holder and unscrewing the 10 mm bolt holding the controller holder to the firewall the whole job was much easier then trying to get the controller unsnapped while in the car. Again unsnapping may be easier if you have the car on some kind of lift. Sitting on the floor, as I was, made it impossible for me to get at the tabs simultaneously to release the module.
Disconnecting the connector is easy, just press down on the release tab and rotate the connector release lever CCW. When reassembling it a little silicon spray around the connector interface make everything slid back together easily.
In summary the only thing I had a problem with was getting the center of the push pins out. Apparently some road crap got into the pin housing and made prying the center out difficult. As a result the center of the assemblies got buggered up. I just ordered a few on Ebay and when the arrive I will replace those in the car currently.
Since I just finished I have not had a change to extensively test the system on the road. My initial impression is the plush ride settings in touring mode make the highway ride much smoother. It also seems like the car is less apt to go into violent wheel spin in 1st and 2nd although since the temperature is in the mid to high 90's it may be just that the engine is putting out less power. As soon as it cools off I'll try again and also get connected via WiFi as supposedly this is working now. If the WiFi is not working I'll wait until it is as I am not going back inside the fender well any time soon unless there is a module failure.
These observations are when doing the job sitting on the floor with the wheel jacked up enough to remove it. If you are on a lift the operation may be somewhat easier.
First immediately go to post 12 in this thread so you can get an idea of what is actually inside the fender well. The DSC installation instructions are about useless except for what screws/push plugs to remove. Actually I removed a few more so I could get the inner liner loose and pushed towards the front and tied with a tie wrap through one of the holes to the upper a arm. Without the pictures in post 12 I may still have been screwing around with this. Many thanks to the forum member Dif who posted these photos. It is very difficult to see into the fender well while sitting on the floor (at least it was for me).
For me unsnapping the controller from its holder while in the car was next to impossible. By unsnapping the wire bundle connected to the controller holder and unscrewing the 10 mm bolt holding the controller holder to the firewall the whole job was much easier then trying to get the controller unsnapped while in the car. Again unsnapping may be easier if you have the car on some kind of lift. Sitting on the floor, as I was, made it impossible for me to get at the tabs simultaneously to release the module.
Disconnecting the connector is easy, just press down on the release tab and rotate the connector release lever CCW. When reassembling it a little silicon spray around the connector interface make everything slid back together easily.
In summary the only thing I had a problem with was getting the center of the push pins out. Apparently some road crap got into the pin housing and made prying the center out difficult. As a result the center of the assemblies got buggered up. I just ordered a few on Ebay and when the arrive I will replace those in the car currently.
Since I just finished I have not had a change to extensively test the system on the road. My initial impression is the plush ride settings in touring mode make the highway ride much smoother. It also seems like the car is less apt to go into violent wheel spin in 1st and 2nd although since the temperature is in the mid to high 90's it may be just that the engine is putting out less power. As soon as it cools off I'll try again and also get connected via WiFi as supposedly this is working now. If the WiFi is not working I'll wait until it is as I am not going back inside the fender well any time soon unless there is a module failure.
Last edited by ronsc1985; 06-13-2017 at 03:22 PM.
#31
Former Vendor
I just finished installing the controller in 2017 Z06.
These observations are when doing the job sitting on the floor with the wheel jacked up enough to remove it. If you are on a lift the operation may be somewhat easier.
First immediately go to post 12 in this thread so you can get an idea of what is actually inside the fender well. The DSC installation instructions are about useless except for what screws/push plugs to remove. Actually I removed a few more so I could get the inner liner loose and pushed towards the front and tied with a tie wrap through one of the holes to the upper a arm. Without the pictures in post 12 I may still have been screwing around with this. Many thanks to the forum member Dif who posted these photos. It is very difficult to see into the fender well while sitting on the floor (at least it was for me).
For me unsnapping the controller from its holder while in the car was next to impossible. By unsnapping the wire bundle connected to the controller holder and unscrewing the 10 mm bolt holding the controller holder to the firewall the whole job was much easier then trying to get the controller unsnapped while in the car. Again unsnapping may be easier if you have the car on some kind of lift. Sitting on the floor, as I was, made it impossible for me to get at the tabs simultaneously to release the module.
Disconnecting the connector is easy, just press down on the release tab and rotate the connector release lever CCW. When reassembling it a little silicon spray around the connector interface make everything slid back together easily.
In summary the only thing I had a problem with was getting the center of the push pins out. Apparently some road crap got into the pin housing and made prying the center out difficult. As a result the center of the assemblies got buggered up. I just ordered a few on Ebay and when the arrive I will replace those in the car currently.
Since I just finished I have not had a change to extensively test the system on the road. My initial impression is the plush ride settings in touring mode make the highway ride much smoother. It also seems like the car is less apt to go into violent wheel spin in 1st and 2nd although since the temperature is in the mid to high 90's it may be just that the engine is putting out less power. As soon as it cools off I'll try again and also get connected via WiFi as supposedly this is working now. If the WiFi is not working I'll wait until it is as I am not going back inside the fender well any time soon unless there is a module failure.
These observations are when doing the job sitting on the floor with the wheel jacked up enough to remove it. If you are on a lift the operation may be somewhat easier.
First immediately go to post 12 in this thread so you can get an idea of what is actually inside the fender well. The DSC installation instructions are about useless except for what screws/push plugs to remove. Actually I removed a few more so I could get the inner liner loose and pushed towards the front and tied with a tie wrap through one of the holes to the upper a arm. Without the pictures in post 12 I may still have been screwing around with this. Many thanks to the forum member Dif who posted these photos. It is very difficult to see into the fender well while sitting on the floor (at least it was for me).
For me unsnapping the controller from its holder while in the car was next to impossible. By unsnapping the wire bundle connected to the controller holder and unscrewing the 10 mm bolt holding the controller holder to the firewall the whole job was much easier then trying to get the controller unsnapped while in the car. Again unsnapping may be easier if you have the car on some kind of lift. Sitting on the floor, as I was, made it impossible for me to get at the tabs simultaneously to release the module.
Disconnecting the connector is easy, just press down on the release tab and rotate the connector release lever CCW. When reassembling it a little silicon spray around the connector interface make everything slid back together easily.
In summary the only thing I had a problem with was getting the center of the push pins out. Apparently some road crap got into the pin housing and made prying the center out difficult. As a result the center of the assemblies got buggered up. I just ordered a few on Ebay and when the arrive I will replace those in the car currently.
Since I just finished I have not had a change to extensively test the system on the road. My initial impression is the plush ride settings in touring mode make the highway ride much smoother. It also seems like the car is less apt to go into violent wheel spin in 1st and 2nd although since the temperature is in the mid to high 90's it may be just that the engine is putting out less power. As soon as it cools off I'll try again and also get connected via WiFi as supposedly this is working now. If the WiFi is not working I'll wait until it is as I am not going back inside the fender well any time soon unless there is a module failure.
#32
Racer
Installed my DSC Sport Controller last night and this thread was incredibly helpful. After spending 15 minutes trying to unclip the factory controller from the holder, without luck, I knew there would be a better solution. Finding the post above made all the difference in the world... so much easier unbolting the controller bracket!
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Dif (12-11-2017)
#34
Former Vendor
Installed my DSC Sport Controller last night and this thread was incredibly helpful. After spending 15 minutes trying to unclip the factory controller from the holder, without luck, I knew there would be a better solution. Finding the post above made all the difference in the world... so much easier unbolting the controller bracket!
That's it
#35
Just got mine installed in my 2017 Grand Sport today. Easy peasy. Hardest part was jacking the car up the first time...can't be too careful.
Removing the bracket (as Dif describes in his post https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1594175754 is key). Take 15 seconds and will save your a lot of frustration. I did not have a connector attached to the controller box as shown in Dif's Picture #7. That made it even easier. And I did not have to remove the "harness connected to the firewall" either.
Removing the bracket (as Dif describes in his post https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1594175754 is key). Take 15 seconds and will save your a lot of frustration. I did not have a connector attached to the controller box as shown in Dif's Picture #7. That made it even easier. And I did not have to remove the "harness connected to the firewall" either.
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Dif (01-22-2018)
#37
Yes, mine has been out multiple times without taking the wheel off. Turn the wheel to the full left lock, and there is plenty of room.
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EMINENT 1 (04-03-2018)
#38
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Apr 2017
Location: Chicago Suburbs IL
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St. Jude Donor '19
Yes, I did mine about 3 weeks ago with the car parked and just turned the wheel. It was a little tight but not too bad. Definitely remove the bolt and take out the whole bracket. Took me about an hour. If I had to do it again it would only take me maybe half that time. Great mod!!
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EMINENT 1 (04-03-2018)