500 mile break-in oil change
03-02-2017, 08:25 AM
#21
These things take 10 qts of oil !!
Burns is a bit out of my way. I will be driving south on I-95 usually spend the night in Florence, SC. Any suggestions for a knowledgeable dealer in that area. If there is one I could call and make an appointment for Monday morning.
03-02-2017, 09:08 AM
#22
[QUOTE=dbaker;1594206219]Had mine done on Tues.507 miles.
Dealer put in 9 qts as I requested and took the 10th qt home to top off.Car was NOT put on a lift but rather they used a drive on service ramp.
Good job by Burns Chevy in Rock Hill,SC
\db2[/QUOT
I will not be near Rock Hill but did plan to stop in Florence for the night on my trip South along I-95.
Does anyone have any suggestions for a knowledgeable dealer in the Florence area?
Dealer put in 9 qts as I requested and took the 10th qt home to top off.Car was NOT put on a lift but rather they used a drive on service ramp.
Good job by Burns Chevy in Rock Hill,SC
\db2[/QUOT
I will not be near Rock Hill but did plan to stop in Florence for the night on my trip South along I-95.
Does anyone have any suggestions for a knowledgeable dealer in the Florence area?
03-02-2017, 09:33 AM
#23
Melting Slicks
[QUOTE=jaybar;1594206950]
You may want to check out the regional forums and see if anyone has recommendations. And/or Google for the ones in the area and then search for those dealers in the forum by name.
Even with doing that, I would tell them you where you want the oil level to be on the gauge and that you will be checking the oil right after they finish with it per the documented way and if it is over filled you will ask them to remove some. Don't wait until your next gas fill-up.
If you have ground effects on your car, I would maybe call ahead and ask if they use ramps or a pit for their oil changes or if they put it on a lift. If they lift, I would get some hockey pucks to protect your ground effects.
Even with doing that, I would tell them you where you want the oil level to be on the gauge and that you will be checking the oil right after they finish with it per the documented way and if it is over filled you will ask them to remove some. Don't wait until your next gas fill-up.
If you have ground effects on your car, I would maybe call ahead and ask if they use ramps or a pit for their oil changes or if they put it on a lift. If they lift, I would get some hockey pucks to protect your ground effects.
03-02-2017, 10:32 AM
#26
[QUOTE=mountainears;1594207146]
You may want to check out the regional forums and see if anyone has recommendations. And/or Google for the ones in the area and then search for those dealers in the forum by name.
Even with doing that, I would tell them you where you want the oil level to be on the gauge and that you will be checking the oil right after they finish with it per the documented way and if it is over filled you will ask them to remove some. Don't wait until your next gas fill-up.
If you have ground effects on your car, I would maybe call ahead and ask if they use ramps or a pit for their oil changes or if they put it on a lift. If they lift, I would get some hockey pucks to protect your ground effects.
Thanks for the reply
First of all when you say I will be checking with "gauge" what gauge do you mean. So I tell them to put in 9qts and run it for a while then use the dipstick?
On the lift. My car is a Grand Sport. With no optional ground effects ordered, will that cause a problem?
I have hockey pucks from my c-5 so I could bring them.
You may want to check out the regional forums and see if anyone has recommendations. And/or Google for the ones in the area and then search for those dealers in the forum by name.
Even with doing that, I would tell them you where you want the oil level to be on the gauge and that you will be checking the oil right after they finish with it per the documented way and if it is over filled you will ask them to remove some. Don't wait until your next gas fill-up.
If you have ground effects on your car, I would maybe call ahead and ask if they use ramps or a pit for their oil changes or if they put it on a lift. If they lift, I would get some hockey pucks to protect your ground effects.
First of all when you say I will be checking with "gauge" what gauge do you mean. So I tell them to put in 9qts and run it for a while then use the dipstick?
On the lift. My car is a Grand Sport. With no optional ground effects ordered, will that cause a problem?
I have hockey pucks from my c-5 so I could bring them.
03-02-2017, 01:51 PM
#27
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: NE South Carolina
Posts: 29,441
Received 9,603 Likes
on
6,616 Posts
GM Bulletin issues 11/24/2014 Key Points:
Dry sumps engines may experience oil leaking from the air cleaner---This condition may be caused by running the engine continuously at sustained high speeds with the first factory fill---resulting in silicone sealant gaskets degrading the antifoam agents…… The oil foam has no effect on engine durability.
Having my Z51 for 3 1/2 years and reading most forum posts about oil dripping from air filters, IMO more occurred from dealers ovefilling the dry sump than operating at sustained high speed!
Keep the rpm's in crusing range and if an automatic operate in manual mode and vary the gears to vary engine rpm. I drove 125 miles from the dealer and operated in 4th (direct drive) 5th, 6th and 7th-all overdrives.
Others have said they were told as long as they didn't use high RPM that waiting until 1000 miles was OK. I would only let a dealer change the oil. Even IF a dealer changes the oil, check the oil level at the dealership yourself! That means idling for about 10 minutes until the oil gets hot. Waiting 5 minutes for the oil to drain down in the dry sump tank BUT not more than 10 or some oil will drain back to the oil pan (thru the scavenge pump gears) and you'll get a false low reading! All in the owner's manual.
Unfortunately some mechanics helpers who often operate the oil change bay will fill to the volume in a table. The Sevice Manual clearly says you must check the level as the volume table is only and estimate. But that takes time. If they do warm up the oil and then go for coffee before checking they'll get a false low reading and overfill!
For fun I caked the oil after few days of the car sitting and it was below the bottom of the dip stick! At least 5 quarts low! It quickly returns when you start the engine. FWIW
Last edited by JerryU; 03-02-2017 at 01:52 PM.
03-02-2017, 03:04 PM
#28
I've had a c-4, and a c-5 I replaced the engine with a LS-6 crate engine. Took that car to a tuner after a few hundred miles to ran it to redline on a dyno to adjust the air/fuel etc.
Now I have a c-7 Grand Sport on order and will pick it up at a dealer 1,000 miles from home. I have never worried about break in's in the past but from all the talk on this forum I have some questions.
One is it ok to run at constant highway speeds for 18 hours (may split the trip over two days)?
And I will miss the 500 mile oil change by 500 miles.
So am I in trouble from the get-go?
If the 500 mile oil change is a deal breaker I guess I could find a Jiffy lube along the way but do not have a good feeling about using them for my first service.
Any suggustions?
Now I have a c-7 Grand Sport on order and will pick it up at a dealer 1,000 miles from home. I have never worried about break in's in the past but from all the talk on this forum I have some questions.
One is it ok to run at constant highway speeds for 18 hours (may split the trip over two days)?
And I will miss the 500 mile oil change by 500 miles.
So am I in trouble from the get-go?
If the 500 mile oil change is a deal breaker I guess I could find a Jiffy lube along the way but do not have a good feeling about using them for my first service.
Any suggustions?
03-02-2017, 04:10 PM
#29
I want to thank all who have replied. Talked to my salesman told him the problem. He said "no problem", I wouldn't have expected any other reply. Did say just get it done as soon as you get home. The on route dealer is a problem as I plan to leave my dealer at noon and drive 500 miles and stop the night. By the time I get there dealer will be closed. Next day is Sunday no dealer open, and I called 7 of them along the way.
So you are going to cringe when I say this but there is a Walmart a block away from my Hotel. They will be open when I get there and 10:00am the next morning. Well its only an oil change. I may be able to get into the shop and monitor the process. The good news is the do have Mobile I and AC oil filters. So if they only drain and fill may be ok.
Trust me I will keep an eye on them.
But just so I know. Two drains one the engine sump and the other the oil tank. Is there any procedure. One before the other, can both drain at the same time etc.
Then have them fill with 8 qts and take two with me and check 20 or so miles down the road.
Any suggestions other than "Go to the dealer" will be appreciated.
So you are going to cringe when I say this but there is a Walmart a block away from my Hotel. They will be open when I get there and 10:00am the next morning. Well its only an oil change. I may be able to get into the shop and monitor the process. The good news is the do have Mobile I and AC oil filters. So if they only drain and fill may be ok.
Trust me I will keep an eye on them.
But just so I know. Two drains one the engine sump and the other the oil tank. Is there any procedure. One before the other, can both drain at the same time etc.
Then have them fill with 8 qts and take two with me and check 20 or so miles down the road.
Any suggestions other than "Go to the dealer" will be appreciated.
03-02-2017, 04:24 PM
#30
Melting Slicks
If you do Walmart, see if they are going to put your car on a lift, if so, get the pucks to protect your ground effects as I think I mentioned earlier.
I'm not so sure waiting until a 1,000 miles is that horrible either, as long as you religiously check it every fill up per the process.
I had a longer drive, almost 3,000 miles, so I arranged to stop. But if my drive was 1,000, I might have made different arrangements.
If you call ahead to the WalMart and they really will let you supervise (they may) then it's your call I guess :-) They may do almost anything you ask if you tell them what you're bringing in...
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ump-specs.html
03-02-2017, 04:27 PM
#31
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: NE South Carolina
Posts: 29,441
Received 9,603 Likes
on
6,616 Posts
The good news is the do have Mobile I and AC oil filters. So if they only drain and fill may be ok.
Trust me I will keep an eye on them.
That is the key in my mind, My general MO when I have the dealer work on anything or the tire store, is to stand behind the open bay door and let whoever is working on it I'm there. Depending on the situation I may say "there is a tip at the end!"
But just so I know. Two drains one the engine sump and the other the oil tank.
No there are two drains BOTH in the pan. One on the rear left side (all car terminology assumes your sitting in the drivers seat!) The one from the dry sump tank is in the front of the pan. There are hoses going to and from the pan just to the right of the drain plug.
Is there any procedure. One before the other, can both drain at the same time etc.
They would need a big drain pan/funnel to a tank, I drain them separately in a ~16 inch pan.
Then have them fill with 8 qts and take two with me and check 20 or so miles down the road.
Have them fill with 9 and give you one. Then you can just idle the car for about 10 minutes. That will heat sufficiently probably to 175F.
The dip stick is in the dry sump tank. Pull it out, wipe it with a rag or paper towel. insert and read, do that twice 5 minutes after you shut the car off. I (and many others) keep mine 1/2 way in the hatched area. That is 1/2 quart above ADD and 1/2 quart below Max. Then check again the next day when you stop.
You'll be fine.
Any suggestions other than "Go to the dealer" will be appreciated.
Trust me I will keep an eye on them.
That is the key in my mind, My general MO when I have the dealer work on anything or the tire store, is to stand behind the open bay door and let whoever is working on it I'm there. Depending on the situation I may say "there is a tip at the end!"
But just so I know. Two drains one the engine sump and the other the oil tank.
No there are two drains BOTH in the pan. One on the rear left side (all car terminology assumes your sitting in the drivers seat!) The one from the dry sump tank is in the front of the pan. There are hoses going to and from the pan just to the right of the drain plug.
Is there any procedure. One before the other, can both drain at the same time etc.
They would need a big drain pan/funnel to a tank, I drain them separately in a ~16 inch pan.
Then have them fill with 8 qts and take two with me and check 20 or so miles down the road.
Have them fill with 9 and give you one. Then you can just idle the car for about 10 minutes. That will heat sufficiently probably to 175F.
The dip stick is in the dry sump tank. Pull it out, wipe it with a rag or paper towel. insert and read, do that twice 5 minutes after you shut the car off. I (and many others) keep mine 1/2 way in the hatched area. That is 1/2 quart above ADD and 1/2 quart below Max. Then check again the next day when you stop.
You'll be fine.
Any suggestions other than "Go to the dealer" will be appreciated.
Last edited by JerryU; 03-02-2017 at 04:38 PM.
03-02-2017, 04:43 PM
#33
[img]webkit-fake-url://4843954c-b138-48aa-955d-af0924169f99/imagejpeg[/img]
went out to the garage look around and here's what I found. The square metal doodads I bought from someone on this form years ago, but lost to when I forgot to remove them and went for a ride .
I made the park with the eyeball it when in the slot in the frame work very well and then of course there's the playing hockey puck.
I made the park with the eyeball it when in the slot in the frame work very well and then of course there's the playing hockey puck.
The bare mind that in southern Florida hockey pucks are very hard to come bye
05-16-2019, 10:57 AM
#34
It is only for vehicles equipped with the dry sump and it was a change that was released to the process a little time after they started shipping them, so they saw something to recommend the change.
It is included / free, on top of the other two free ones you get.
It's on page 308 of the manual where it calls it out, and there are service bulletins out there for the dealers as well that have been published in these forums.
It is included / free, on top of the other two free ones you get.
It's on page 308 of the manual where it calls it out, and there are service bulletins out there for the dealers as well that have been published in these forums.
cant find anything about it in my service manual.
Last edited by Jmp11687; 05-16-2019 at 10:58 AM.
05-16-2019, 11:54 AM
#36
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: NE South Carolina
Posts: 29,441
Received 9,603 Likes
on
6,616 Posts
For dry sump engines only, the 500 mile change is required to eliminate “the chance” that oil foam that “might occur” and “might flow” into the air intake, run down, soak the air filter and drip on the ground, “if the engine is operated at sustained high speed.”
Note words in “. ‘ are GM’s not mine!
No dry sump tank and no line from a wet sump going to the air intake, hence no issue.
Yep it’s covered free. Should be as it’s GMs problem because of silicone fumes from curing seals that might depleted the antifoam agents in that first fill. Antifoam-agents are in all motor oil!
THOSE WHO WORRY ABOUT GETTING IT DONE AT EXACTLY 500 MILES. FOOLISH, IMO!
In fact that GM Bulletin did not come out for 13 months after I got my September 2013 built Z51. I had no problem and hit redline soon after 500 miles BUT did not operate at “sustained high speed,” as warned in the bulletin. In fact following the issue for 5 years on the forum, IMO, far more likelihood of oil dripping from the air filter from a dealer overfilling when they change!
Last edited by JerryU; 05-16-2019 at 12:05 PM.
The following users liked this post:
DAC17 (05-16-2019)
05-16-2019, 11:16 PM
#38
2nd Gear
Member Since: May 2019
Location: Corpus Christi, Texas
Posts: 2
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Has anyone had an issue with a dealership charging a fee for this? I live in Texas, but purchased my grand sport (new) from Florida and had it shipped here. I wasn’t aware of the complimentary 500 mile service, and I’m not sure my local dealership is too keen on doing anything for me since I didn’t purchase from them.
05-16-2019, 11:33 PM
#39
First, just to be accurate, there is no such thing as break-in oil in any C7. Same Mobil 1 you can buy is used.
For dry sump engines only, the 500 mile change is required to eliminate “the chance” that oil foam that “might occur” and “might flow” into the air intake, run down, soak the air filter and drip on the ground, “if the engine is operated at sustained high speed.”
Note words in “. ‘ are GM’s not mine!
No dry sump tank and no line from a wet sump going to the air intake, hence no issue.
Yep it’s covered free. Should be as it’s GMs problem because of silicone fumes from curing seals that might depleted the antifoam agents in that first fill. Antifoam-agents are in all motor oil!
THOSE WHO WORRY ABOUT GETTING IT DONE AT EXACTLY 500 MILES. FOOLISH, IMO!
In fact that GM Bulletin did not come out for 13 months after I got my September 2013 built Z51. I had no problem and hit redline soon after 500 miles BUT did not operate at “sustained high speed,” as warned in the bulletin. In fact following the issue for 5 years on the forum, IMO, far more likelihood of oil dripping from the air filter from a dealer overfilling when they change!
For dry sump engines only, the 500 mile change is required to eliminate “the chance” that oil foam that “might occur” and “might flow” into the air intake, run down, soak the air filter and drip on the ground, “if the engine is operated at sustained high speed.”
Note words in “. ‘ are GM’s not mine!
No dry sump tank and no line from a wet sump going to the air intake, hence no issue.
Yep it’s covered free. Should be as it’s GMs problem because of silicone fumes from curing seals that might depleted the antifoam agents in that first fill. Antifoam-agents are in all motor oil!
THOSE WHO WORRY ABOUT GETTING IT DONE AT EXACTLY 500 MILES. FOOLISH, IMO!
In fact that GM Bulletin did not come out for 13 months after I got my September 2013 built Z51. I had no problem and hit redline soon after 500 miles BUT did not operate at “sustained high speed,” as warned in the bulletin. In fact following the issue for 5 years on the forum, IMO, far more likelihood of oil dripping from the air filter from a dealer overfilling when they change!
i won’t be taking a chance at 500 I’ll be bringing it in
The following users liked this post:
JerryU (05-17-2019)
05-17-2019, 07:44 AM
#40
Race Director
THOSE WHO WORRY ABOUT GETTING IT DONE AT EXACTLY 500 MILES. FOOLISH, IMO!
In fact that GM Bulletin did not come out for 13 months after I got my September 2013 built Z51. I had no problem and hit redline soon after 500 miles BUT did not operate at “sustained high speed,” as warned in the bulletin. In fact following the issue for 5 years on the forum, IMO, far more likelihood of oil dripping from the air filter from a dealer overfilling when they change!
