egp

Engine covers?

AdventurePoser

I think my Z51 is pretty functional, right down to the heated seats. They seem to work very well!

Kent1999

Hate those stupid things.

Pulled them off so I could see REAL engine parts:

Kent1999

When you lay out the steps, it sounds kinda complex but its really pretty easy -- took me about 2 hours total to complete, and that includes doing both sides (I have a non-Z51, manual trans, US-spec C7, so my car needed to have the ducts installed on BOTH sides). And that is me never having removed the rear fascia before -- I could do it quicker now if I ever had to do it again.

The processes for rear bumper cover and fender removal are already detailed here on the Forum, so I'll just give the steps overview:

PARTS NEEDED:
11546449 NUT, FLANGED 6MM --5@$3.50 ea.
23200060 BAFFLE, Differential lubrication 1@$30
22792720 BAFFLE, Transmission oil cooler 1@$32

Parts notes:
*if you have an automatic transmission, you already have the transmission baffle in place -- no need to buy the baffle or remove drivers side fender.
*you'll need five (5) of the 6mm nuts if you are going to do both sides. You can use standard 6mm nuts and washers from the hardware store, and it will be cheaper. I bought the genuine GM nuts because I am funny that way.

STEPS:
1) Unbolt rear bumper fascia and then tilt it back and rest it on a box directy behind the car. You can save time and effort by NOT disconnecting the hatch release wire for this, no need to as you are just disconnecting the bumper and resting it nearly in place.

2) Unbolt and remove rear fenders. NOTE: If you have an automatic, you already have the driver side baffle/duct in place, so you do not need to remove the driver's side fender.

3) Remove the flimsy plastic vent blocking plates from the underside of the fender top vents by removing 2 nuts, removing the flap, and then replacing the nuts. The actual fender top vents are the same for all Stingray coupes, so they do not have to be replaced.

4) Bolt in OEM ducts -- these are about $30 per side from any discounting dealer. Mounting studs are already in place, so you simply attach the vents using 6mm nuts (2 on the passenger side, 3 on the drivers side.)

5) Reattach fenders and rear bumper cover.

Done. The top fender vents are now fully functional, as they now duct air from the tops of the fenders back to the low pressure area in the rear of the car.

mustclime

Fake c7 stuff......the frame is fake steel, the body work is fake metal, half of the dash has fake gauges that are just tv screen with pictures of gauges......

LT1 Z51

They actually have an NVH function. So they aren't fake at all.

cvp33

Again my sarcasm was missed.

Kent1999

I know, they are there to hide engine noises and the injector clicking ... and to hide scary looking engine parts

The truth is -- GM puts their ugly Tupperware covers on ALL their motors, even ones that couldn't make a scary noise if their life depended on it.

Jeffthunbird

Confused! Looks like everything is fake!
I've heard cooled seats are just circulated cabin air. I'd call that fake!

Kent1999

And the sounds coming from the speakers isn't live music but PRE-RECORDED! More fakery!

fugly1

The whole car is a fake C7.R. Works for me!