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Not everyone has put enough miles on their C7s to start needing to replace components (other than the common failures early on), but now that I'm up to 63K on the clock, I'm starting to wrench on her finally. In this case, the tensioner went bad at about 50K. It took a little while to diagnose, but I finally tracked it down. It really sounded like a power steering pump going bad, but of course the C7 has an electronic steering pump, so that wasn't it. The video below has my daughter showing how to replace the tensioner and belt, the part numbers and torque values so that hopefully it will help someone when the time comes. I truly hope you enjoy her videos, and if you get a chance please subscribe to her page and check out her other C7 related videos as well! Thanks everyone, and keep it between the lines!
Bounty Hunter 6
You guys make great videos! Easy to follow, clear and very instructional, thank you!
Thanks, Rooster. We have a blast doing it, and I'm enjoying making a gearhead out of my daughter. It's great bonding time for sure! Always looking for new ones to do that are within my capabilities (which is a pretty shallow pool!!)
That is a great video production. Only suggestion I would make is it would have been nice to hear the noise in the introduction. Great job! My two sons in their 20's cannot not wrench that well!
That is a great video production. Only suggestion I would make is it would have been nice to hear the noise in the introduction. Great job! My two sons in their 20's cannot not wrench that well!
Good input, sir. I toyed with the idea of putting it in there; I can't remember why I didn't. Thank you, though!
The video gives a good idea of what to expect, but it would be better if you also told details like you cannot really reach the bottom bolt with a wrench from the top, but you can easily get it loose from the bottom..
Also, if you really use a torque wrench on the top bolt, it takes a very short socket to get the torque wrench on with the power steering housing limiting the clearance...
Also, I would recommend that you use 6 point sockets and wrenches where ever possible to minimize damage to the bolt, instead of open end wrenches.
I found that a 12 inch breaker bar and socket were plenty to relieve the tension on the belt when installing.
I did find it easiest to slip the belt off and back on the small pulley on the alternator. It is worth noting that is NOT the AC Compressor pulley as stated in the video and text.
Mine was not making a noise but had started leaking on my early 2014. Hope the new part number means they have improved the design, but probably not.. Part #12668977 for non-supercharged
GM would be smart to use these as training films. Make sure you've got a copyright
Copyright is covered already by default (Statutory Copyright), but it wouldn't hurt saying so in the vid, though it is not legally required. If you are REALLY getting serious, you could register with the Library of Congress. That serves to register the date more than anything, which probably would not be an issue here because you have the person who can establish that.
Since most tensioners I have seen on other cars are just spring loaded, I wondered how the Corvette one worked with hydraulic fluid so I took it partially apart.
I noticed it had a note on the body about which end should be up, and when I pulled back the rubber boot all the fluid ran out.. and guess what was inside? a spring! Makes me wonder if the fluid really does any dampening. Maybe it is a combination of spring and hydraulic dampening.
I can see why they would start leaking since all that holds the fluid in is the rubber boot... I thought it was just a dust boot, but it seals to the cylinder...
The pulley has its own sealed bearing.
02-26-2017, 01:37 PM
Tensioner Replacement - ThatCuteGinger
Part #12668977 for non-supercharged
Makes me wonder if the fluid really does any dampening. Maybe it is a combination of spring and hydraulic dampening.
