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M7 clutch fluid question

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Old 04-14-2017, 06:05 PM
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coupeguyz51
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Default M7 clutch fluid question

The maintenance schedule says to change the clutch fluid after 30,000 miles, or, after two years, whichever comes first. Assuming you have far less than 30K miles on your car and don't track or abuse it on the street, what is the point of changing the clutch fluid after two years? Have any of you ignored this two year footnote and had any problems because you did?
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Old 04-14-2017, 06:16 PM
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RicK T
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Clutch fluid IS brake fluid. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, it absorbs water even when in a sealed system. I think many, maybe most, owners subscribe to the change brake fluid every two years, clutch fluid is the same. In fact a lot of owners still do the Ranger clutch fluid flush several times a year, a carryover from the C6 years but I don't see it talked about as much in C7.
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Old 04-14-2017, 06:17 PM
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Curahee
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Originally Posted by coupeguyz51 View Post
The maintenance schedule says to change the clutch fluid after 30,000 miles, or, after two years, whichever comes first. Assuming you have far less than 30K miles on your car and don't track or abuse it on the street, what is the point of changing the clutch fluid after two years? Have any of you ignored this two year footnote and had any problems because you did?
I asked my Vette Tech the same question. He said no need to change fluid, and it's even a stretch to say it needs changing at 30K.
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Old 04-14-2017, 06:18 PM
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DAFFYDRUNK
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I just suck out the old stuff with a turkey baster and refill it, then pump the clutch a bunch. I kinda blew off doing that with my yellow GTO and had to put a new slave in it. Seals took a dump. Perhaps replacing the fluid over the years would have helped, dunno...
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Old 04-14-2017, 06:21 PM
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dbaker
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I change mine when it looks dirty and normally do the Ranger Method at every OCI.

Fluid is cheap....why not do it?

Lot's of good fluids out there.
I use this on all my cars.

\db2

Amazon Amazon

Last edited by dbaker; 04-14-2017 at 06:22 PM.
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Old 04-14-2017, 06:29 PM
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coupeguyz51
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Originally Posted by RicK T View Post
Clutch fluid IS brake fluid. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, it absorbs water even when in a sealed system. I think many, maybe most, owners subscribe to the change brake fluid every two years, clutch fluid is the same. In fact a lot of owners still do the Ranger clutch fluid flush several times a year, a carryover from the C6 years but I don't see it talked about as much in C7.
Change the brake fluid every two years??? I've never changed the brake fluid in any of my cars on a regular basis and never had a problem....btw, what is the "Ranger" clutch fluid flush?
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Old 04-14-2017, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Curahee View Post
I asked my Vette Tech the same question. He said no need to change fluid, and it's even a stretch to say it needs changing at 30K.
This makes much more intuitive sense to me.
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Old 04-14-2017, 08:06 PM
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TEXHAWK0
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I refresh the fluid in the reservoir every time I change the oil, or at least a couple times a year. Did this also on my 2004 z06 and never had a problem in 10 years.
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Old 04-14-2017, 08:09 PM
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Ranger protocol: Suck fluid from reservoir, add fresh, pump 30 times, repeat.
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Old 04-14-2017, 08:26 PM
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I renew the clutch fluid via the ranger method every oil change. You would be suprised how much clutch dust and moisture is in that clutch fluid pot. Its cheap insurance.
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Old 04-14-2017, 08:32 PM
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BEZ06
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Originally Posted by coupeguyz51 View Post
...what is the "Ranger" clutch fluid flush?
Here's a link by my fellow Ranger, Ranger - he's got some good info about the clutch system, and of course his method of swapping in fresh DOT 4 brake fluid into the clutch:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...al-issues.html


RLTW

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Old 04-14-2017, 08:57 PM
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I also am religious about using the Ranger method. Every time I check the oil, I extract a syringe full from the reservoir and add the same amount of new.

It was a big C6 issue, but can be a problem on the C7 too. We just recently had a poster, whose clutch was getting stuck, at 23K miles. She did the Ranger method, and problem solved.

It's a great alternative to putting the car on a lift and draining the fluid from below. It's also just very easy preventative maintenance.
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Old 04-14-2017, 10:02 PM
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jclarksnakes
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Actually the Ranger method was used by C5 owners also. I think I remember Ranger was real fast in a C5 before he was real fast in a C6.
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Old 04-14-2017, 10:13 PM
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TEXHAWK0
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Originally Posted by juanvaldez View Post
Ranger protocol: Suck fluid from reservoir, add fresh, pump 30 times, repeat.
I don't worry about pumping it, I just drive it for a few days and change it again if dark

Last edited by TEXHAWK0; 04-15-2017 at 09:45 AM.
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Old 04-14-2017, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jclarksnakes View Post
Actually the Ranger method was used by C5 owners also. I think I remember Ranger was real fast in a C5 before he was real fast in a C6.
Yes, he was/is. He was the first person to get into the 10's in a bone stock C6 Z06. The man was/is a master of ringing out every ounce of performance in a stock vehicle.

I met him and watched him run at Maryland International Raceway (MIR). He was a great guy and always helpful to everyone.

Whatever happened to him? Hope he's still with us.

Originally Posted by TEXHAWK0 View Post
I don't worry about pimping it, I just drive it for a few days and change it again if dark
You're right no need to pump (as opposed to pimp), if you're only changing one bowl at a time. Driving will take care of mixing it up.

The clutch pumping is only done after every extraction/fill cycle, if you're going to try to remove most of the dirty fluid at once. The best method is to do 10 bowls the first time or until the fluid is clear, and from then on, just extract a bowl full every month or so, in which case pumping isn't necessary. That will keep the fluid relatively clean in perpetuity.

Last edited by Foosh; 04-14-2017 at 11:17 PM.
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Old 04-14-2017, 11:47 PM
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JerryU
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To "drain the fluid" from the slave cylinder requires removing the sheet metal that covers it and the exhaust pipe with catalytic converter on the drivers side! Not easy or cheap.

The Ranger method is easy and relies on the fact that the fluid master and slave cylinder mix as you pump the clutch. If your not drag racing where there could be a lot of clutch dust then it works fine for me, once per year. Might as well buy a small container of Dot 4 brake fluid and do it properly. I use the whole container as most are plastic that allows some moisture to permeate into it over time. The general recommendation is once opened not to reuse. 12 oz of Prestone DOT 4 ~$5 at Walmart- cheap.

This is a pic of mine after 1 year from the first replacement of the clutch reservoir contents and the 6th. In that case after 8 changes the fluid looked identical to what was in the new container. 30 pumps per change. 240 pumps! Good leg exercise! Only used it for 6 years in my C6 and 3 1/2 years in my 2014-not clutch issues.

If interested this is a 5 page PDF with pics and text: http://netwelding.com/Clutch_Fluid.pdf



Clutch Fluid After 1st and 6th Change Using a Simple Replace and Pump Proceedure

Last edited by JerryU; 04-14-2017 at 11:57 PM.
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Old 04-15-2017, 12:21 AM
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I buy Pentosin Super DOT4 (made in Germany) on Amazon in a metal can. Label says it can be stored indefinitely in the original container.

The clutch reservoir itself is a plastic container, with a cap that is not very tightly sealed, so it's gotta be absorbing moisture in the car. After doing it "properly" to use your term, renewing it one bowl at a time once or twice a month keeps it cleaner than your method in perpetuity.

Actually, it was Ranger his own self who told me that.

Last edited by Foosh; 04-15-2017 at 12:28 AM.
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Old 04-15-2017, 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Foosh View Post
I buy Pentosin Super DOT4 (made in Germany) on Amazon in a metal can. Label says it can be stored indefinitely in the original container.

The clutch reservoir itself is a plastic container, with a cap that is not very tightly sealed, so it's gotta be absorbing moisture in the car. After doing it "properly" to use your term, renewing it one bowl at a time once or twice a month keeps it cleaner than your method in perpetuity.

Actually, it was Ranger his own self who told me that.
Metal (or glass) is one one of the few ways to avoid moisture permeating through a container or hose. When welding titanium or even aluminum the moisture that permeates through the shielding gas hose can cause defects.

We also found packing welding wire in a plastic bag was worse than not relative to causing rust! For 140,000 psi yield strength welding wire (for HY-140 used on some mini subs etc) it was packed in metal cans.

Last edited by JerryU; 04-15-2017 at 12:51 AM.
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Old 07-20-2018, 09:34 AM
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I'll add....

1) Check for hardness/ or replace...rear sway bar bushings.

2) Change the Power Streeting fluid...turkey baster technique is okay to use.

PS I have found over time the heat from the exhaust mufflers harden this bushings and additionally the inner circle (so to say) ovals from use.

Enjoy your Vette

Last edited by Kenny94945; 07-20-2018 at 09:34 AM.
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Old 07-20-2018, 12:23 PM
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I had mine changed yesterday at my dealer. $240 as it was 2 hours labor. Had to lower exhaust to get at bleed valve so they say. I only did it because when I did Tail Of The Dragon a while back I had an issue when the clutch pedal began to only partially come up from being depressed so I suspected some over heating or some sort of break down of the fluid. Anyway I felt better that I had it done though maybe not necessary.
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