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I had the #3 package done at MacMulkin for $2000 before I picked up my 2016.
Their #4 full wrap was $3500.
If I had to choose between the prices you've been quoted, I would have spent the extra $755 and gone #4.
Congrats on the new Ride
I'm surprised you'd be so quick to accept everything a supplier says at face value, without questioning the possible underlying motives. They actually don't use language as adamant as you used above, but more of a waffly recommendation.
The simple fact is that some of their less-experienced installers have reported to XPEL they've had trouble with adhesion, and as a result, they issued that "guidance" to make it easier on themselves. I've not seen similar guidance from any other PPF supplier, and there's nothing fundamentally different about XPEL.
A very experienced professional installer does not have any adhesion problems with a sealant or coating underneath, and many of the better installers do not agree with XPEL's advice, including mine who has been doing it for 20 years. He's been quite outspoken about it, and I posted some videos here, that he made awhile back.
I had my car painted-corrected, then CQuartz Finest ceramic coated, with XPEL Ultimate on top. Any film is going to look much better over a beautifully prepared surface. There are zero adhesion problems after a year, driven 10K miles in all kinds of weather. Mine was wrapped around all edges with no seams visible, and that also precludes adhesion problems.
If the XPEL get's nicked or needs to be replaced, the paint underneath will be pristine and still protected. If it does need to be replaced, the film will also come off clean with no residue or paint damage. Ceramic coatings are intended to protect paint, not plastic.
Here's their FAQ:
"Can/should Opti-Coat or similar coating be applied to the car before the film is installed?” We do NOT recommend applying sealants such as Opti-Coat or cQuartz to the parts of the car that will be covered with film. The low surface energy of paint sealant products such as these will cause adhesion problems both during installation and over the life of the product. In addition, it is worth noting that there is really no benefit to applying sealant to the paint before the film, since the film will provide far more environmental protection to the paint than a sealant ever could.
"Can I wax the film when I wax the rest of the car?
”Unlike most paint protection films on the market, XPEL ULTIMATE Paint Protection film can be waxed and sealed just like your paint. Though XPEL Flawless Finish Paint Protection Film Sealant is still the preferred product, Any automotive wax or sealant may be used.
The capitalized NOT in their answer is their emphasis, not mine. I'll go by what the manufacturer recommends over an installer. Also, the top coat of Xpel Ultimate IS paint, not plastic.
Your post #9 said, "Don't know why there is any debate about this. Xpel is very clear on this. Do not apply sealer of any kind before installing film."
The XPEL Ultimate guidance says, "We do NOT recommend . . .," which is fundamentally different than what you said.
We differ with regard to whom is more trustworthy. In my case, I've seen more than dozen cars done by this same installer where ceramic coating was put under the XPEL, including 2 of my own. None of them have suffered any of the problems warned about in the XPEL guidance. I've also seen what the paint looks like when the film is removed and how hydrophobic the underlying paint remains. My own eyes and experience have proven to me conclusively that XPEL is flat out wrong regarding both the benefits and the warning.
Lastly, with regard to what is paint and what is plastic, the issue for me is paint is more expensive, and film is meant to be sacrificial. Thus, I'd rather have the protection on my car's paint, not the XPEL "paint."
To the people that don't wrap I respect your opinion but for me I have the Z06/GS body with the Z07 Cup2 tires and I am not sure those in a Stingray fully understand the damage that can be caused with this set up. Some guy made the comment to just keep it in a garage or get a 3500 dollar paint job. That is an unrealistic cost for a good paint job where things are removed for paint as opposed to masking and spraying away. I want to drive the car which is exactly why I had it wrapped. Here is a pic of my paint after 935 miles. Yep that's it 935 miles. Imagine what would be left after 20,000 miles???
No skirts? I have the stage 2 GFX on my GS and I think, don't know for sure, that it makes a huge difference in road rash. That said, I still have a full body Xpel as well.
You are correct that was without skirts, just the ACS and GM Splash guards. I am waiting for a set of side skirts to arrive and yes they help considerably.
Every car I had before my '15 Corvette looked horrible after being sand blasted and pelted with rocks. Made washing the car a disappointing experience. After nearly three years and having Xpel since week one my car still looks great and has even been saved from my own error on a few occasions.
I went with option 3, expect I did the roof since it is removable.
I'm surprised you'd be so quick to accept everything a supplier says at face value....
I second FOOSH's comment. Xpel says what they say because most installers don't do a good enough job period. I did Ceramic Coat Pro coat before Xpel, and I added it after as well. All my choices based upon discussion and research... followed by a healthy does of Trust BUT Verify.
Bottom line is PPF manufactures (in all their forms) are about the same. The BIGGEST/GREATEST difference you will find between what you like and don't like WILL BE BASED on the skill of the installer. Asking what a good price is will work great to get a ball park idea. Ultimately, you will find either a guy who does a great job for a little or a lot, or a guy who does a horrible job for a little, or a lot. It will be the guy (gal) skill that determines your happiness in the end.
Oh and here is mine... Full Xpel Ultimate (minus Rear Hatch and Rear End...
PPF is great if you know what you need it for, and know what it does...
However, what do you think about this guidance from XPEL from your same quote?
”Unlike most paint protection films on the market, XPEL ULTIMATE Paint Protection film can be waxed and sealed just like your paint. Though XPEL Flawless Finish Paint Protection Film Sealant is still the preferred product, Any automotive wax or sealant may be used."
The underlined part is completely disingenuous having used films from 3M, SunTek, and a company whose name now escapes me. Every single one of them recommended using any wax or sealant on top to protect the film, and none of them said anything about using a sealant, ceramic or otherwise, underneath.
Even though I'm a happy XPEL customer, I think their "guidance," as with many companies offering products, is self-serving and not necessarily entirely accurate.
However, what do you think about this guidance from XPEL from your same quote?
”Unlike most paint protection films on the market, XPEL ULTIMATE Paint Protection film can be waxed and sealed just like your paint. Though XPEL Flawless Finish Paint Protection Film Sealant is still the preferred product, Any automotive wax or sealant may be used."
The underlined part is completely disingenuous having used films from 3M, SunTek, and a company whose name now escapes me. Every single one of them recommended using any wax or sealant on top to protect the film, and none of them said anything about using a sealant, ceramic or otherwise, underneath.
Even though I'm a happy XPEL customer, I think their "guidance," as with many companies offering products, is self-serving and not necessarily entirely accurate.
In all fairness, most PPF on the market does not have a clear coat top coat and should not be treated like a painted finish. The crappy GM applied film in front of the rear wheels is a good example. Most PPF manufacturers (maybe all now) have a top of the line film with a self-healing top coat, but they all also make more than one level of PPF that does not.
I have to disagree with you again. I've been waxing PPFs for more than a decade now with great results. The XPEL I now have is no different than any other w/ regard to waxing. It was also recommended on the original 3M film I first had installed in 2005.
We install XPEL at my shop on a daily basis. It comes down to the installer and how clean they can lay and trim the material. Some installers add unnecessary seams, or use kits which won't cover as much of the areas as we can with a custom bulk install, etc.
Find an installer in your area with years and years of experience and read some reviews.
If anyone on here is in Portland, OR I would love to show the work performed on my C7. Full front-end is completely wrapped.
The first car I had XPEL installed on was my wife's Lexus ISF. We were driving it down the highway going around 70 MPH and were behind a truck full of cement blocks. Long story short is the truck hit a bump which caused approximately 6 or 7 of the cement blocks to fall out and shatter on the road way. My wife literally drove STRAIGHT THROUGH the flying debris (without slowing down mind you). The car was seriously pelted all over. I was thinking to myself, "there is no way we didnt damage every leading edge panel on this car!!).
I could tell the XPEL was all chewed up, but the car was so full of cement dust, etc., I couldnt make out what all damage was done. The shop I had the film installed on had a lifetime warranty on it, so I took it back to that installer to have them remove it and tally up what the damage was.
Believe it or not, but there were NO dents or scratches AT ALL! The XPEL took all the damage and protected the car! The shop installed new film and didnt charge me for it as they said it was covered under their warranty.
To me, once you spend ~$45k for a car, you should seriously consider putting film on at least the entire front clip. Your car will look nicer and I have gotten more money for my cars when trying to sell them due to condition AS WELL as people valuing the fact a high quality clear bra was installed. If you sell your car every couple years, then it may not be entirely worth it unless you want to hedge against the cement block scenario my wife ran into (literally).
That's what I'm talking about. The PPF is there to protect the paint and should be regarded as sacrificial. One should expect damage to it, because that's what it's there for.
To the people that don't wrap I respect your opinion but for me I have the Z06/GS body with the Z07 Cup2 tires and I am not sure those in a Stingray fully understand the damage that can be caused with this set up. Some guy made the comment to just keep it in a garage or get a 3500 dollar paint job. That is an unrealistic cost for a good paint job where things are removed for paint as opposed to masking and spraying away. I want to drive the car which is exactly why I had it wrapped. Here is a pic of my paint after 935 miles. Yep that's it 935 miles. Imagine what would be left after 20,000 miles???
Just looks dirty in the pictures.
Should have guessed the crowd that thinks $3500 is reasonable for "paint protection" is the same group that thinks it costs $10K-$20K for a paint job..
I'm in the WRONG business! Should just forget all this silly computer stuff.
Just looks dirty in the pictures.
Should have guessed the crowd that thinks $3500 is reasonable for "paint protection" is the same group that thinks it costs $10K-$20K for a paint job..
I'm in the WRONG business! Should just forget all this silly computer stuff.
Pretty sure the guy knows if his paint is chipped or not.
I did the front fascia, the front portion of the hood and the fenders, the mirrors, the rockers and lower door up to the crease and the rear quarter panels. I have the side skirts so didn't worry about behind the front wheel wells and although I didn't do behind the rear wheel wells I haven't seen any damage on the part of the rear fascia that is there. All of that damage is on the underside and if I can't see it I don't worry about it.
The only area that I didn't cover that I found should have been covered was the door above the crease. I didn't think the tire turds would come off the front tire and impact there but they do impact from about a foot forward of the rear edge of the door to the edge. If I had it to do over again I would have both doors completely covered.
Update: I went with the Package 4 - basically the whole car. At the end of the day $700 bux i just bit the bullet. The price is also very good. I know some people who have paid 6-8K for a whole car.
Just looks dirty in the pictures.
Should have guessed the crowd that thinks $3500 is reasonable for "paint protection" is the same group that thinks it costs $10K-$20K for a paint job..
I'm in the WRONG business! Should just forget all this silly computer stuff.
Yes I just made it dirty to prove my point and went ahead and got the entire car wrapped over the dirt. Insert sarcasm here Logan.
You have your perspective on Xpel and I can respect that. I dont feel a need to convince you otherwise. However the fact is its not dirty its damaged after 935 miles. Your perspective or what you "think" about dirty or damaged doesnt mean jack because there you are 100% wrong. And if you think I find the cost reasonable you again are 100% wrong. Its a lot of money. To be clear the money I spent on Xpel was a decision I made by basing the fact of the initial 935 miles of damage was substantial. And to do a proper paint job with removal of spats, ground effects, diffuser, mirrors, pulling quarter and rear glass, removing air ducts, lights, belt mouldings, etc, properly prepping then applying primer, paint and clear and reassembling yes it is way above 3500 dollars. I am not talking SEMA quality, just talking same job as OE. That too is a fact, not what someone thinks.
To make sound decisions people should know facts. After that they can make an educated choice that best suits them. Now I am going out on my streets that have not been swept yet this year and I am going to beat the shvt out of my car fully knowing there are no more chips showing up on the paint.
04-26-2017, 11:50 AM
