ggroller

Just wondering what other people think.

The fact that the two lower rear license plate holes aren't secured to the car drives me nuts.

So, do I drill the two holes in the bumper or not?

Keppler

I place a few of those rubber stick on pads on the lower edge of the plate so at least the plate is not vibrating against the paint.

brooklync5

Disregard my post....

fourmat

I put a flexible plate frame on it keeps the plate from scratching all the way around

dbdave

He's talking about the rear plate.

Larry/car

No! There is no need, the plate will not fall off and is about 1/16 inch or more away the painted surface.

robert miller

I did a small piece of 2 sided tape, one on each side of the plate. I would not drill holes at all.

LDB

Not sure if this is the kind of tape Robert Miller was talking about, but several including me have secured front plates on various cars using nothing but 3M, double sided body molding tape. It’s about 1/16” thick acrylic, and comes in various widths and lengths. I got a 15’ by 1/2" wide roll from Amazon for about $10, and used about 18” of it per plate. I’ve had one on a BMW for 3 years without falling off, and a CTSV for a year and a half. Admittedly, I have not tried to take a plate off that has been mounted that way, so I can’t say from firsthand experience whether it leaves any damage behind. But others have reported little or no damage, and I haven’t seen any reports of serious damage. So if you just have to have the rear plate fastened down top and bottom, that kind of tape would seem to have a lot less potential for damage than the guaranteed damage of drilling.

ggroller

I'm not worried about the plate falling off. It's an aesthetic thing for me.

Rooster OG

I did.

juanvaldez

Me, too. Drilled the hole and squared it up with a file to take O.E.M. blind nut.

mountainears

I'll update in about a week when all my stuff comes in. My plan is to use a billet frame which has some nice rigidity. Then I'll be putting bolts in the bottom holes to secure the frame and plate together at the bottom and grind off the back side of the bolts to get it as thin as possible. I'll cover that with some rubber bumpers (door stop bumpers for cabinet doors).

I think that will be pretty clean looking and I certainly don't want to drill holes.

TEXHAWK0

I just used a perimeter frame and put a couple of small rubber bumpers in the bottom holes.

Steve Garrett

Honestly, with a car like a C7, no one is looking at your license plate. I also get OCD about stuff, but I wouldn't worry about this one.....

CandyRed77

Just a tip: I found some of these in a local hardware store and used them instead of regular nuts:
https://www.fastenright.com/general-...rrel-nuts/sb09

I drilled the holes in the plate and the frame a little larger so these would fit in from the back, and then shortened them and the bolt so it would still be tight, but not stick out in the back. That way the frame is more flush with the rear bumper, rather than stick out when using the ticker nut.

mountainears

Nice tip, I'll look into that, could be a nice clean way to do it.

dbaker

I left my dealer paper tag underneath my metal tag & plastic frame.

No rattle.

\db2

kabluie

For me this is a non issue. The plate is far enough away from the body that it's not an issue. Just in case it is an issue, I would use double sided tape and a spacer to hold it firm. There is not a lot of wind-age back there, and from I've seen most of the wind is blowing upwards, which tends to hold the plate away from the bodywork. Lastly, who can hear a rattle with the exhaust, tire noise, and the wind blowing by the car. I would be more concerned with messing up the paintwork. A little GooOff on a cloth will remove the excess glue left on the paintwork when you decide to get another custom plate.

mountainears

I haven't been terribly worried about vibration. If it scuffs the paint I'd never see it because there will always be a plate on the car. And I certainly won't hear it vibrate. For me, the Museum Delivery frame I currently have doesn't have a lip in the bottom to hold the plate to the frame, so it visually looks sloppy. So I'm looking to clean that up...

Kent1999

Agreed... I don't like how the bottom of the rear plate just kind of hangs in mid-air.

I've also been considering doing it the way juanvaldez did it (love your coffee) -- squared up holes to accept OEM nuts.

The only time anyone would ever see the holes is when I run without a rear plate which is... never. And with the square OEM nuts in place, it will continue to look stock.