Blew something in my rear end with only 474whp
05-23-2017, 02:40 PM
#41
Part of the risk of modification is sometimes parts break that would have broken at stock power level but now it turns into customer pay.
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Maxie2U (05-23-2017)
05-23-2017, 02:41 PM
#42
Also idk if anyone answered this or not but is the z06 final drive gear set and spider gears any differant than the grand sport? If its the same set of gears theres no way adding lees than 100hp could be blamed for the failure.
Last edited by Liter of cola; 05-23-2017 at 02:57 PM.
05-23-2017, 02:42 PM
#43
Le Mans Master
Well, I guess it's not impossible, but I think the odds for warranty coverage of a drivetrain failure with all those mods in place is what we here in my part of the country would charitably describe as a "longshot".
05-23-2017, 02:50 PM
#44
DR's provide MORE traction. Someone should have said by now stiffer tires spin and that saves you from damage. Grabbing hard is what does the damage. Your problem was not the tires.
05-23-2017, 02:56 PM
#45
05-23-2017, 03:01 PM
#46
Thanks i'll have that checked when i get my guts sewed up.
05-23-2017, 03:35 PM
#47
Drifting
With all due respect sir, the mods installed on a MY2017 prior to expiration of factory warranty is a high risk proposition. GM has a stronger legal position than the owner, especially during a factory warranty period.
As someone said, "you pay to play".
For the life of me, I cannot fathom why new owners cannot wait to install engine, exhaust mods after the warranty period.
As someone said, "you pay to play".
For the life of me, I cannot fathom why new owners cannot wait to install engine, exhaust mods after the warranty period.
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VictorBarron (05-26-2017)
05-23-2017, 03:53 PM
#48
cost of 4 gear spiders
First you have to have a differential with good side gears, if you don't a used one is $1000+ and a new one is $2000+-.Then you need to remove the whole rear end, disassemble it, purchase the parts to modify/fix the rear end and find someone who knows what and how to add the extra gears. I have explained and sent pictures to a few who were interested (one guy in Florida is doing his own as I write this)and have done a few already and am waiting for the machine shop to do some work so I can finish another one. Ed
05-23-2017, 03:58 PM
#49
Le Mans Master
You would think with modern technology wheel hop would not be a problem or break things.
The '68 Mustang used in Bullitt didn't come apart due to excessive wheel hop!
Check out the excessive wheel hop while in reverse 1:00 minute into the video.
The '68 Mustang used in Bullitt didn't come apart due to excessive wheel hop!
Check out the excessive wheel hop while in reverse 1:00 minute into the video.
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ForceFedC5 (05-23-2017)
05-23-2017, 04:00 PM
#50
Are the C7's spider gears weaker than the old C6's? If so, you would think GM would resolve the problem by a redesign.
When the C6's first came out, people were blowing the CV joints. GM changed the design of the CV joints for the C6's and they were weaker than the old C5's. C5 axles in the C6 solved the problem.
I believe GM finally fixed the design.
As for wheel hop, the C6's also had it, but when they introduced the ZR1, they had different diameter axles(left to right) to cure the wheel hop, and they also put the larger axles into the Z06.
GM is pretty proficient about redesigning parts to reduce manufacturing costs, and ending up with weaker parts than the ones they replaced, meaning they have to go back and redesign the parts again to fix the problem they created.
When the C6's first came out, people were blowing the CV joints. GM changed the design of the CV joints for the C6's and they were weaker than the old C5's. C5 axles in the C6 solved the problem.
I believe GM finally fixed the design.
As for wheel hop, the C6's also had it, but when they introduced the ZR1, they had different diameter axles(left to right) to cure the wheel hop, and they also put the larger axles into the Z06.
GM is pretty proficient about redesigning parts to reduce manufacturing costs, and ending up with weaker parts than the ones they replaced, meaning they have to go back and redesign the parts again to fix the problem they created.
The C7 spider gears are the same diameter as the C6, BUT the shaft they are on is larger, so the spider gears are weaker (the larger hole leaves less material to hold the gear together) Ed
05-23-2017, 04:08 PM
#51
First you have to have a differential with good side gears, if you don't a used one is $1000+ and a new one is $2000+-.Then you need to remove the whole rear end, disassemble it, purchase the parts to modify/fix the rear end and find someone who knows what and how to add the extra gears. I have explained and sent pictures to a few who were interested (one guy in Florida is doing his own as I write this)and have done a few already and am waiting for the machine shop to do some work so I can finish another one. Ed
Also if anyone knows are the differentials the same in both m7 and A8? Can i use a diff from an A8 car?
I see, whats the final drive ratio on the stingray and z06?
Last edited by Steve Garrett; 05-29-2017 at 03:09 PM. Reason: Merged Posts-please use the Multi-Quote button (the middle icon) in the lower right hand corner of each post to make your responses look like this!
05-23-2017, 04:36 PM
#52
Moderator/Tech Contributor
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2015 C7 of the Year Finalist
You would think with modern technology wheel hop would not be a problem or break things.
The '68 Mustang used in Bullitt didn't come apart due to excessive wheel hop!
Check out the excessive wheel hop while in reverse 1:00 minute into the video.
https://youtu.be/no7XR7s8Z7o
The '68 Mustang used in Bullitt didn't come apart due to excessive wheel hop!
Check out the excessive wheel hop while in reverse 1:00 minute into the video.
https://youtu.be/no7XR7s8Z7o
How is this possible? Must be some of that "movie magic" you hear so much about!
Elmer
05-23-2017, 05:14 PM
#54
Race Director
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2023 C6 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2022 C6 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2021 C6 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2017 corvette grand sport m7
474 whp
-atomic intake manifold
-103mm tb
-halltech cai
-kooks 2" header and cat delete x pipe
-stock wheels and mpss run flat tires
Tried to do a burnout after doing some foolish doughnuts earlier in the day, when i dropped the clutch at about 4k rpm i heard a horrible sound followed by grinding and clanking sounds the wheels never spun and there was no clutch smoke, the revs went all the way up with the clutch engaged in 1st gear but the car didnt move. Now theres a horrble clank sound thats very loud when moving slow and turning a in sharp maneuver, driving straight and the sound still comes on but its way lower of a sound when just alowing the car to roll, try and apply power and the same clank occurs, but only under load and not as frequent as when turning sharply. Had a friend look under the car while i pulled forward and both axles are intact and they both spin under power and when letting the car roll in neutral.
I had the car towed to the closest dealer so they can tell me whats wrong with it. Im just so surprised that i blew something out in the rear end with this low of a power level, arnt all the trans, diff and rear end parts the same as the ones in the 650hp z06? I thought this car would be tougher than this. This was litterally the first time i ever did stuff like this in this car and it broke.
I'll update you guys when the dealer tells me what blew
474 whp
-atomic intake manifold
-103mm tb
-halltech cai
-kooks 2" header and cat delete x pipe
-stock wheels and mpss run flat tires
Tried to do a burnout after doing some foolish doughnuts earlier in the day, when i dropped the clutch at about 4k rpm i heard a horrible sound followed by grinding and clanking sounds the wheels never spun and there was no clutch smoke, the revs went all the way up with the clutch engaged in 1st gear but the car didnt move. Now theres a horrble clank sound thats very loud when moving slow and turning a in sharp maneuver, driving straight and the sound still comes on but its way lower of a sound when just alowing the car to roll, try and apply power and the same clank occurs, but only under load and not as frequent as when turning sharply. Had a friend look under the car while i pulled forward and both axles are intact and they both spin under power and when letting the car roll in neutral.
I had the car towed to the closest dealer so they can tell me whats wrong with it. Im just so surprised that i blew something out in the rear end with this low of a power level, arnt all the trans, diff and rear end parts the same as the ones in the 650hp z06? I thought this car would be tougher than this. This was litterally the first time i ever did stuff like this in this car and it broke.
I'll update you guys when the dealer tells me what blew
05-23-2017, 05:19 PM
#55
Le Mans Master
05-23-2017, 05:28 PM
#56
Educate me. I searched and could not find info on this. What info are you basing your stiff sidewall theory on? A web site? Can you paste it in here?
Ha ha, yeah that's my thinking as well. Soft sidewalls are more likely to distort on hard acceleration and give you a bigger contact patch.
Last edited by Steve Garrett; 05-29-2017 at 03:09 PM. Reason: Merged Posts-please use the Multi-Quote button (the middle icon) in the lower right hand corner of each post to make your responses look like this!
05-23-2017, 05:34 PM
#57
Melting Slicks
With all due respect sir, the mods installed on a MY2017 prior to expiration of factory warranty is a high risk proposition. GM has a stronger legal position than the owner, especially during a factory warranty period.
As someone said, "you pay to play".
For the life of me, I cannot fathom why new owners cannot wait to install engine, exhaust mods after the warranty period.
As someone said, "you pay to play".
For the life of me, I cannot fathom why new owners cannot wait to install engine, exhaust mods after the warranty period.
When I was into drag racing, I purchased several new cars (and a truck - 2002 Lightning), ran them for about 5-600 miles, and then pulled the drive trains and modified the heck out of them. The worst one for finding the weak links was a Pontiac Firehawk. Broke the rear 3 times and the trans 2 times. My wife was totally on board with it. We had a dealer that did a lot of the modification work for us and at one time had 5 of our cars in their bays - and she just laughed.
As you said, when you make decisions like this you know that you're going to pay to play. And we knew it. We worked out a deal with the dealers that they'd sell us parts at cost, and we'd pay labor (at a reduced rate) for fixes. Stupid thing to do with $? Not if you know it could be that way and enjoy it. Can't take it with you.
05-23-2017, 05:47 PM
#58
Probably a generous dyno but those are the numbers i got.
Cant tell you excactly where i heard it first but most drag race guys believe that drag radials are bad for manual cars cuz the stiffer sidwalls is a bad combo since manual cars shock the whole drivetrain more than autos. Its believed that having a stiff sidewall on a manual increases chances of driveline failures. One guy that says this a lot is alejandro flores on youtube, he works for vmp superchargers.
Last edited by Liter of cola; 05-23-2017 at 06:06 PM.
05-23-2017, 05:53 PM
#59
The Consigliere
Member Since: May 2006
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Wheel hop likely killed the diff.