slvdot2

Understand its not just a flush, its a proper fill.

Ron_Attleboro_MA

I have a 2017-GS, 8100 miles, not shudder yet. I fear it will show up someday.
A friend has a 2016 Z06, got the shudder early around 2k miles, had the rev-1 triple flush, helped significantly but still has a problem.
I will pay to have a single preventative flush done if spring ever gets here.
I fear my dealer will not use the new procedure and newest blue-label fluid. I don't want my pan dropped.

I would do it myself, dropping the pan, but I want the dealer to have it on record for the future, in case the shudder starts.
If I do it, they will blame me. Bastards, you did it wrong, didn't fill it correctly, didn't use the correct fluid... blah, blah, blah.

It would be great if GM stepped up and offered some kind of incentive to do the preventative flush. Free parts or labor.

slvdot2

I agree, GM didn't tell us there is a Technical Service Bulletin out there about this problem! Please get over talking about a flush, It's an improper fill. If you have the problem, get it to the dealer soon, if not, you probably got a good fill from the factory. If your buddy didn't do that, then he probably ponded the torque converter, bummer. You don't need to drop the pan unless you let it go on till you pounded the gears apart. Think about it!

ricmalaz

Update: My car had developed misfiring due to too large of spark plug gap. I changed my plugs with the NGK LTRIX-11 plugs provided with my A&A supercharger. I kept the gap at the standard .040" but come to find out it need to be abou .030" with low boost. I don't recall seeing that anywhere in the installation instructions. To complicate matters the misfiring didn't start happening until after my car started shuttering. Anyway, I recapped the plugs, and now my shuttering is gone along with the misfires.Fingers are crossed, but the car runs perfectly now.

jivor

My car had a torque converter replacement and fluid flush after developing a 100-150 rpm shudder in V4 mode about 15 months ago; the shudder was reduced significantly until about 4 months ago. I waited until the new "fix" was out (coinciding with a 25000 mile service) having a 2nd transmission flush 3 days ago, using the 19417577 x24 fluid. After picking up the car, driving to work, and then nearly 200 miles across the state, there were some initial rpm fluctuations with no shudder, but otherwise the tach gauge remained almost totally still (10-20rpm fluctuations?).

I don't know if this is a long term solution, as others have noted, time will tell.

BK Vette

Doing some research, does this problem only occur in V4 mode?

I use the paddles 95%+ while I drive any car with the option for fun factor (370Z, Alfa Romeo Giulia have been my past cars). from what I've seen this keeps the Vette in V8 mode so will help avoid problems?

pkincy

V4 and the change from V8 to V4 and back certainly exacerbates the problem. However a number of GM cars using the A8 have A8 "shudder" that don't have the AFM nor V8s so I would have to say no. It is somewhat interesting however that the latest TSB does specifically mention that the PicoScope measurement must be between 40 and 80 mph and between 1000 and 1800 rpm and in V4 mode. I do think that is because at those speeds, and at steady throttle, at those rpms the car will mostly be in V4 unless you are indeed in M mode.

I also use the paddles 90% of the time, have 10,000 miles on my 16Z and have only experienced the "shudder" twice so far. Each time I was loafing along in drive doing 55 mph in a 55 mph zone and running slightly downhill so I had little throttle input at all and was in 6th gear. Whether I was in M or in D, I just don't remember.

ricmalaz

My AFM is disabled with my tune, and my 2016 A8 still got the shudder. And, like pkincy implied, using the paddles reduces the occurrence of the shudder. My car would still shutter under the right circumstances using paddles. I think switching from V8 to V4 and back can certainly exacerbate the problem, and in my case misfiring definitely exacerbated the problem.

speed4tu

I had the AFM Disabler on my 16 A8 and still had issues multiple times with the shuddering. So I can second the ability to get the shudder without using the v4 mode. I had around 9k miles on mine when the issues arrose. Dealt with it until 13K miles. I have since grew tired of dealing with it and traded for a M7 Z06. Problem solved. No more autos for me from GM.

nightroddersp

I'm guessing that since I am coming from awesome performance car like my 1985 Trans Am to my Vette that maybe I can't notice anything wrong. It's my daily driver rain or shine. I dread the day I have to take it in for this TC issue because my wife is a Mustang freak and I will never hear the end of it. I just crossed over 16,000 miles so far. Fingers Crossed.

pkincy

Two choices if you don't want to see if it will raise its ugly head. One is to pay $650 out of pocket and get the flush done. The other is to pay a grand to buy an additional 5 years of extended warranty and simply not worry about it. On my C6Z I had the warranty from 2008 inception and it ran out in 2017, although I traded for the C7Z in late 2016. Kept me from fretting over the valve guides. My 2016 warranty runs out til 2023. So I likely will buy a C8 in 2022 and get to deal with whatever achilles hill comes along with them at that time.

Remember the C4 ZR1 piston problems? The C5Zs oil consumptiion problems? The C6Zs valve guide problems? Now we have some minor potential TC problems. If you want to see how the other half worries, go to a Mercedes, Lamborghini, BMW or Porsche forum and hear them whine.

Gearhead Jim

In addition to the financial calculations, an extended warranty lets you worry a lot less about problems.
We use our Corvettes for long road trips. If something goes wrong on the trip; we stop at a dealer, tell them what's wrong, jump in the usually-free loaner or rental, and say "call my cellphone when it's fixed." Priceless.

BK Vette

this is what I will do if I get the C7, will get the warranty from Dennis

nightroddersp

I have an extended up to Feb of 2024 or 62,000 which ever comes first. So I will wait to see how it does.

1776DAVE

I had studder from abiut 6k miles . Times it worse times better... times i drove it hard and paddle shifted ... but tell now never connected the two. Had it in multiple times 3 different dealerships ... they all reflashed the trans control computer ...
At last a dealer in dallas said we will look into it at 32 k miles ... they keep it 7 days... did the flush ...
Got it back abd rpm moves 25 to 40 rpm vs 70 to 100 but shuder is gone. Now haveb35k miles on it with no issues .
I also got the warranty from mr. D. To 96000 miles for peace of mind. May get a 2023 c8 .. or not.. 😏

AT T 2D

Impressive if you are still on the original tranny on an '85 Trans Am. My brand new one with the awesome 205 horse Tuned Port Injection didn't make it to 1987.

Burnsie

I have a 2017 GS automatic with 3300 miles. The last time I drove it was to back it out the garage to wash it and pull it back into the garage when I was done. This morning when I put it into reverse, it would not move. It would not go forward either. I put it in neutral. Let it set. I probably repeated these steps three times all the while checking underneath the car to confirm that nothing was blocking the tires. I also checked the parking brake. I’m not a ‘car guy’ so I don’t know what’s happening but this has me freaked out.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

guitarman1

Is it going into gear? Could it be the parking brake is not releasing?

AT T 2D

If I wash my Lexus RCF and park it, the brake calipers stick to the disks. It takes a significant amount of throttle to break them free. I have heard people talk about the same issue with the C7, though I haven't washed mine and then immediately parked it yet. I suspect this is your issue.

Burnsie

Shifting was no problem. I have never used the parking brake before, but I checked it just in case I had accidentally pushed it down while cleaning/detailing the interior. The car just would not move after changing gears. I hadn’t applied much if any throttle.

I’m hoping this is what was described above - the calipers sticking. I’ve never heard of that before but again this is not my area of expertise. Thanks for the replies.