Tow hook experience
http://www.ebay.com/itm/V-Bridle-wit...4AAOSwrmdTqwKV
Last edited by felkebg; Jul 26, 2017 at 05:15 PM.
Last edited by segen77; Jul 27, 2017 at 06:13 PM.






The length of the nylon (?) straps is one of those things where it's common for them to be too short but rare for them to be too long.






There are probably different sizes, but I bought a set that didn't say anything about size and they are just right.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
You might find this earlier content I found to be interesting:
Actually, the recommendation is for a short 4X4 over the strap and under the body. None of the towed vehicles were C7s but I read that some tow trucks even run a strap through the open windows of the cabin and pull the down vehicle by the A pillars. NO THANK YOU! What follows is copied from another post I worked on:
I found that the tow truck drivers say they WON'T recommend towing on any aluminum casting. The following is a set of towing suggestions aggregated by the OP on another forum and I have already copied them to my phone for any possible future use as he did even though I have the towing receivers on my 2015 Z51 and the V bridle coming now:
After several hours of research the following seems to be the consensus of professional tow truck drivers:
1) The C7 can’t be towed using dolly wheels with either the C7 front or rear wheels touching the ground. This is because the electronic suspension components (e.g., magnetic selective ride control, electronic limited slip differential) are locked unless the engine is on.
2) Use ramps (e.g., 2x6 staggered lumber) to prevent the C7 front spoiler from hitting the truck bed on approach. Several tow drivers commented that they built special ramps to help load exotic cars with low ground clearance.
3) The consensus it to use T-hooks inserted into the frame slots (i.e., jack point spots) behind the front wheels. Recommendation is not to place a strap around the control arms or any other aluminum casting.
4) One driver states, “Our company policy is no eyelets. Two separate connecting points on all tows. In this way if one fails you have back up.”
5) The bridle connecting the T-hooks should be 40 inches or longer to clear the oil pan. It is suggested that the bridle be made from straps and not metal chain to avoid damaging aluminum underbody parts or the composite spring. Double check that the bridle does not touch the oil pan as drivers commented that a good bump may crack the oil pan.
6) Place a 4x4 between the tow cable and C7 underbody near the front splitter/ air dams to keep the cable from scraping against any part of the C7.
7) Use around the wheel tie down straps and do not wrap straps around aluminum suspension components (e.g., engine cradle, transmission cradle). Also, don’t pass straps through wheel spokes for tie down. Although this may seem as a convenient and safe method, it can damage the clear coat and paint on the wheels.
8) Do not load the car from the rear. The car is not aerodynamic in this direction and there are cases where the T-top has blown off.
There is a disclaimer by the OP abshapiro about this being his personal sense of what he studied. Comments will show horror stories of $800 damage to the nose of an owner's C7 that the dealer had to fix because getting money out of towing companies can be next to impossible.
original post by me:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...n-z51-c7s.html






Depends on year and model.
The only thing I know for sure is that our 2017 Z51 did come with both front and rear receivers.
Try the Advanced Search feature and see what you can find.
I suspect that most or all of the base cars don't have the receivers, but don't trust my opinion.
(All of this information is available in other threads, but I couldn't find all of it in one place)
1. Our local dealer said that GM had no hooks in the supply chain, so he got one from another dealer who had it in stock. List $116, with a club discount $90. There is a nice aftermarket unit available for a similar price, but I stick with stock parts when practical.
2. The GM hook fits nicely in the niche molded into the plastic "sub-floor" at the right-rear of the trunk. The aftermarket hook can be made to fit but requires enlarging the niche.
3. The front grill has a small section in front of the receiver that pulls out to allow installing the hook without scratching or breaking the grill mesh. The "ears" that hold this piece in place are different between top and bottom, so I used a silver Sharpie to mark "Top" and "Bottom" on the back of the piece so it gets reinstalled correctly. The first removal took a hard pull and I'm glad the garage was hot to reduce the chance of breaking/cracking. Subsequent removals were easier.
4. With a bit of oil on it, the hook screwed in easily. Threading it in will remove some of the paint in the receiver threads, I gave them a shot of Superlube spray afterwards to reduce rusting. The other end of the receiver appears to be open, so covering the front opening will just allow dirt and crud in get in from the back and be trapped.
5. The rear receiver hides behind a small pop-out panel in the left-rear bumper. Mine did not pop out easily. The plastic putty knives/credit cards I use as expedient trim tools wouldn't do the job, I cut a custom rectangle from a stiff plastic notebook cover than that worked nicely, inserted from the left side and slid around to the bottom. It will be stored in the rear cubby for use if needed. In an emergency, a screwdriver will work but will gouge the plastic.
6. It took me 20 minutes of sweating and cussing to get the hook started into the rear receiver. I'm not sure if the opening was deformed a bit, or the paint on the threads was interfering, or the weird angle of entry was messing me up. Either way, the time to test it is now, not laying on your back in a muddy ditch or 5 minutes before your first track session. Even after installing three times, getting started was a bit stiff at this end. But do-able.
Again, the other end of the receiver is also open so junk will get in there. Again, I gave it a shot of Superlube to reduce rusting.
7. The hook should work for pulling you out of some mud, or getting you out of the way at a track event. But at either end, the hook is way off-center and sits at a weird angle, so plan on using T-hooks in the frame slots if you need to be winched onto a flatbed.
Hope this helps someone...
Sorry, forgot to take pics.
BTW, sprayed the threads, both on the tow hook and inside the receiver, with some WD-40 and it went in smooth as silk.






You're welcome.
Since that original post, I've learned a few things:
GM recommends that the tow hook be used only for pulling on pavement, not to drag your car out of a ditch. (In the Owner Manual). But I'd use it if I couldn't get T-hooks into the slots.
I also keep a set of the T-hooks in my cubby, a tow truck can use their straps on my hooks if needed. For me, a complete bridle w/hooks takes up too much space in the trunk.
Goin' on three years now and have never needed the tow hook or T-hooks. Hoping to keep it that way...
Appears to be well made of quality materials
Last edited by jimmbbo; Apr 26, 2020 at 02:24 PM.
Appears to be well made of quality materials
Tow Hook or Brindle? With Stage 2 and 3 Front splitters.Get your vehicle ready for the,Not planned Tow
Last edited by DALE#3; Apr 10, 2021 at 06:46 AM.












