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GM Battery Tender - Too hot?

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Old 07-21-2017, 09:34 AM
  #21  
CRABBYJ
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Originally Posted by Kevin A Jones
I'm considering leaving the tender connected full time, however that means leaving the trunk lid up and car cover off unless I create an access hole through the bottom of the trunk compartment to run the cord. The battery vent hole could be enlarged to accomplish this but I don't really want to cut anything.
There are two opposing camps on CF on how to deal with this issue. I'm in the one whose opinion and experience since 11/2013 has been that the hatch can be closed on the charger cord. The hatch gasket is hollow and compresses around the charger cord when the hatch is closed. No apparent damage to either the charger cord or the hatch gasket. Just leave a little slack in the cord inside the of the hatch so it doesn't move in the C7 socket and disconnect when closing the hatch. I do it this way because I have a 3LT with leather that any opening could let hungry mice in.


P.S. And yes I leave it plugged in all the time. Also, I never use a car cover inside my garage even over winter storage, just a California Duster periodically when it's been previously washed.

Also, that cloth does NOT go over the hatch gasket but is just tucked into the outer channel next to the gasket.

Last edited by CRABBYJ; 07-21-2017 at 09:55 AM.
Old 07-21-2017, 09:52 AM
  #22  
joeybsyc
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Originally Posted by CRABBYJ
There are two opposing camps on CF on how to deal with this issue. I'm in the one whose opinion and experience since 11/2013 has been that the hatch can be closed on the charger cord. The hatch gasket is hollow and compresses around the charger cord when the hatch is closed. No apparent damage to either the charger cord or the hatch gasket. Just leave a little slack in the cord inside the of the hatch so it doesn't move in the C7 socket and disconnect when closing the hatch. I do it this way because I have a 3LT with leather that any opening could let hungry mice in.


P.S. And yes I leave it plugged in all the time. Also, I never use a car cover inside my garage even over winter storage, just a California Duster periodically when it's been previously washed.


Agree with all the above.
Old 07-21-2017, 09:57 AM
  #23  
Foosh
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Crabby,

You're right that the hatch can easily be closed over the cord without damage to it, done it 100s of times over the years, but it doesn't make any difference if you leave the hatch/trunk lid down and unlatched. The lights time out, and the car still goes to sleep the same as when it's closed. I leave mine cracked now to remind me to unplug.

I will never again use an indoor car cover, but I drive my car 3-5 days a week year-round. The many negatives far outweigh the positive:

1) They are a PIA to install and remove.
2) Because of #1, you don't tend to drive as often.
3) They collect dust, removing/installing fills the garage with dust defeating the purpose.
4) Unless the car is completely clean, they cause swirl marks.
5) You don't get to view a great looking vehicle.

I could go on, but indoor covers only provide benefit for cars that rarely ever move. I used them until a decade or so ago until I decided it was pretty damned silly.
Old 07-21-2017, 02:03 PM
  #24  
Kevin A Jones
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I've been debating whether to leave the tender connected 100% of the time and close the trunk lid (convertible) over the cord, however feared the closed lid may permanently depress the lid gasket over time potentially causing a trunk compartment water leak.
However I guess you guys are proof that shouldn't happen.

In regard to indoor covers, I primarily cover my cars for protection. My garage is a popular entryway into the house with family and grandchildren (though, not unsupervised) having access. Also houses our beer fridge so a few visitors sometimes have access. The cover prevents fingerprints and I've found can be the difference between scratched paint and avoiding a disaster if car is bumped or something falls against it.
I have to admit though I haven't had this car covered in the short time I've had it and am really enjoying the view.
Old 08-05-2017, 05:07 PM
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Kevin A Jones
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Thanks for the idea CRABBYJ;
Working great! Pretty much a must have for a convertible if you put the top up and down very often.





Last edited by Kevin A Jones; 08-05-2017 at 05:10 PM.
Old 08-05-2017, 06:43 PM
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Thanks Kevin

One other tip as I see you park in your garage on the same side I do so it is not obvious that the charger is connected being mounted so low on the wall as is mine. So, since my C6 days, starting in 2004, I made up a sign for the windshield to remind me it is connected. Same now with my C7.

This is where I place it and is now a more refined version made up by another CF member (name?) so the credit for this one is all his. Use it to make your own on card stock.




Leave a litle extra on bottom to slide under wiper blade


PS. Had to look it up. Thanks for sign goes to Bob Beroza. Link below.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ging-sign.html

Last edited by CRABBYJ; 08-05-2017 at 07:11 PM.
Old 08-05-2017, 08:39 PM
  #27  
Kevin A Jones
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Thanks again CRABBY! I printed it off as I'm definitely capable of backing out with the charger in tow!

Last edited by Kevin A Jones; 08-05-2017 at 08:40 PM.
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Old 08-05-2017, 09:04 PM
  #28  
stevebz06
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My understanding is that the factory charger is a "Float Charger" and is intended for maintaining a fully charged battery, not recharging a battery.

If you've driven the car for a pretty good while, then hook up the charger
immediately after parking it and leave it on. See if that solves your issue.
Old 08-06-2017, 02:21 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by CRABBYJ
There are two opposing camps on CF on how to deal with this issue. I'm in the one whose opinion and experience since 11/2013 has been that the hatch can be closed on the charger cord. The hatch gasket is hollow and compresses around the charger cord when the hatch is closed. No apparent damage to either the charger cord or the hatch gasket. Just leave a little slack in the cord inside the of the hatch so it doesn't move in the C7 socket and disconnect when closing the hatch. I do it this way because I have a 3LT with leather that any opening could let hungry mice in.


P.S. And yes I leave it plugged in all the time. Also, I never use a car cover inside my garage even over winter storage, just a California Duster periodically when it's been previously washed.

Also, that cloth does NOT go over the hatch gasket but is just tucked into the outer channel next to the gasket.
I used the CTek on my C6 Grand Sport and now on my C7 ZO6, if the car wasn't being driven for at least 3 days, it was always plugged in. The C6 had a rain slot in the bottom of the passenger door for the cord and I plugged into the console outlet, with the C7 ZO6 it plugs into the outlet in the hatch. Unlike the OP, in the winter months I had the cover on the C6 GS and will also on the C7 Z, but I plug in the same. Just leave a bit of slack inside the hatch and close the hatch carefully, I'm not seeing any cord issues with mine.
Old 08-07-2017, 01:43 PM
  #30  
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It's my belief that keeping a conventional lead-acid battery at full charge extends its life, so I keep the C7 on the 3300 and my truck on a Deltran Battery Tender Plus whenever they're in the garage, even if I'll be driving either one in the near future. My Harley has an AGM and I don't believe this much attention to a perpetual full charge is as important with that type of battery, so I give it a charge with the Deltran about every two weeks whether I ride the bike or not. The concrete slab floor of the garage is cooler than ambient air in summer, so I keep the metal base of the 3300 flush against it, as it should run a bit cooler there than if suspended with an air gap. Heat transfer to a solid is better than air, especially when the solid is cooler.

My garage is about 90°F now and the C7 has been on the 3300 since last driven a few days ago, now at "pulse maintenance" (green light). I just took a IR-thermometer reading on the Corvette logo which showed 94° (4° above ambient). I opened the car door which triggered a charging state (orange light) and after 10 min. the temperature had climbed to 107°, which is warm to the touch. I've noticed it being warm before but never enough to pique my attention, as I would expect that. The Deltran charger connected to my truck is at about ambient temp now (green light on for days), but it also gets a bit warm when charging.

On the subject of closing the hatch lid on the 3300's wire, I leave it cracked since the car is in a garage where moisture and unwanted tampering is never a problem. The ECU will put the car in sleep mode after about 20 min., so all lights and other functions that stay on will be extinguished long before draining the battery.

Last edited by iclick; 08-07-2017 at 01:56 PM.
Old 08-07-2017, 02:14 PM
  #31  
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I had the same problem with a CTEK charger. It would get very hot - what seemed hotter than normal. I sent it in to CTEK at their request. They sent me a new one. The new one does not get as hot. Though they never confirmed it, I think there was a problem with the old one.
Old 08-07-2017, 08:33 PM
  #32  
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I plug it in and close the lid. The cord is thin and no need to leave the harch open. Rather than use it intermittently, I plug it in every time so I never forget to unhook first. Charger hangs on wall by back of car.



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