AmmoVet

tried the rest, went with the best, rivet nuts. Figured if I had to drill might as well use them as I want the ability to remove them easily.

LuisZ51

I attached mine with the provided self tapping screws. All I did different was add stainless washers to get a little bit more surface bite. No problems yet (knock on wood).

StingrayJL

That's what they gave me tapping screws but did you have to drill the car and put those tapping screws? Where was your Tapping screws on them on the side angle or underneath the car?

LuisZ51

Yes you have to drill the car to install them if you got the side skirts with the short edges on them for screws. mine attached more on the side of the panels not directly underneath. Drill the smallest hole possible just enough to get the tip of the screw started. If you drill the hole too big than the screw won't get enough bite to it. I have seen side skirts that have a really long edge that attached to factory mounting locations way underneath the car. Not sure who makes those though. Mine were from extreme online store and the fit was perfect.

FRED HAMBLE

Why C7 carbon verses other vendors side skirts??
Fred

96GS#007

Other than deciding to use tape, you'll need to drill holes. This is exactly what the dealer does during PDI for the Stage 2 skirts and it's what's done at the factory to install the Stage 1 3/4 skirts (which are now delivered installed on the car vs years past). GM uses rivets. If you buy the rivets from GM, the price is over the top expensive...$5.00+ each. However, the identical rivet can be purchase for about $0.50 ea from "clipsandfasteners dot com" ...25 Bumper Fascia & General Purpose Split-Type Rivets GM 11516807

The side skirts fits over a portion of the rocker panel, so yes....some of the holes are angled and some are a straight shot. All are technically under the car...ie they're not visible standing there looking at it. This is not rocket science and every car that was optioned with side skirts from the factory has holes drilled in it to install them.

2000 Vette Guy

PM sent

wrecker3

I got ACS Side Skirts and used rivets that they sent. Good fit and was easy to install.

JerryU

Installed carbon fiber side skirts on my 2014 and used standard aluminum rivets with a small stainless fender washer.

The tech that installed the side skirts on my Grand Sport used GM rivets on my Stage 2 Aero side skirts.. He drilled 13 holes per side. That suggested source for GM rivets is an easier solution and suggest the OP use these. I was always concerned a passenger would hit the side skirts on exiting. Had "speech" I always made to folks existing! Know from comments some made it was irritating BUT if the broke one they would be very upset and I was out the cost of splitters! The use of rivets and carbon fiber reduces the need to tell folks to watch and not to step on the side skirts when leaving!

You will learn quickly not to have the issue but I still bruised against them a number of times when exiting the 2014 for 3 years. Was happy I used rivets and the strong carbon fiber held up fine.

Vetteman Jack

Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. I have a set of the RPI Designs side skirts that I need to install and the info here should help with that effort.

Frodo

I personally don't like the idea of using rivets. They are harder to remove and you may well need to remove them sometime later. I installed skirts on my base Stingray and tossed out the rivets and used screws. Buy stainless steel screws so you won't have a rust issue. I had a moment of dumb *** and crunched my passenger side skirt. I ordered another skirt and had it on in lass than 30 minutes. Easy peasy.

JerryU

‘On my 2014 used rivets. Replaced one side shirt. Just drilled though the center pin, very easy as there is a recess on the outside. They came right off.

As the Tech did with 13 rivets per side for my Stage 2 Aero skirts, you are only attaching the skirts to the plastic composite rocker panels. On my 2014, screws would have pushed the rocker panels away from the aluminum frame as in some areas they touched the frame. They doen’t Hold with a lot of strength in the thin plastic composite panels. Don’t want to drill into the frame! In fact to assure the drill did not touch the coated aluminum frame, I put a piece of thin steel between the rocker panel and frame. Just slipped it in from the open side. The composite rocker panel drills like butter. The thin steel stops the drill.

Don’t have thin steel? Open a can of soup, remove both ends and flatten with a hammer!

To Each Their Own!

JMII

This was the part I didn't understand until I got the skirts and saw how they align to the rockers themselves. The skirts attach to what I would call the SIDE of the car. However at this point on the body the side is angled in such a way it might be considered the BOTTOM. As mentioned these holes, once drilled, shouldn't be visible from a standing position due this angle. To see them you would almost need to be at ground level.

This shot of the rear wheel well gives you an idea of what everyone is talking about:



The link below details a review and installation of EOS side skits on my Z51 - it includes more pictures to help you visualize things.


https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...th-photos.html

I used screws with large flat washers along with a thin metal mending plate in addition to the double stick tape. I track my car and thus wanted to ensure there was no way these things could fly off at triple digit speeds. Its likely overkill but screws are cheap insurance so I added a few extra per side.

Bill Dearborn

The problem with screws is there is nothing for them to really grab onto. They are threaded into plastic. The rivets expand on the other side of the plastic and have more support than the threads in the plastic can provide. Wait until you have somebody screw up lifting your car with the thick part of the lift arm coming up under the side skirt and actually lifting the car before the lift pad and lift puck make contact. Then you have the weight of that side of the car supported by the side skirt and not the frame. Can happen any time the car is put on a lift and the operator doesn't pay attention to the angle of the lift arms. Rivets hold screws pull out.

Bill

Frodo

You're welcome to your opinion about rivets vs screws. I'm glad they worked for you. As I mentioned in my first post I had a bad moment where I drove right over a curb and crushed part of the skirt and had to replace it. The screws held just fine and the new skirt was mounted using the same screw holes. The rocker panel isn't as fragile as you might think. My problem with rivets is that sometimes when drilling them out they spin in place. If this happens it becomes a big pain in the ***. I'll stick with screws.

Upon further thought, I doubt the swelling of the rivet shank is any greater than the threads of the screws I used. Seems like a break even unless you can place a washer behind the rocker to improve the grip. Just sayin.

JerryU

I'm Glad Screws worked for you! Not trying to be funny and this post is not meant for you as you have your opinion and experience.

But it depends on the rivet and the install. When I drilled the rocker panel when installing rivets in my 2014 was surprised how easy the drill went through. Pull the trigger once and you're through. Watched the C7 Tech install the Stage 2 Aero side skirts on my Grand Sport. He used the GM dome head longer rivets that no doubt mushroomed further on the back side (13 per side, twice as many as I used on my 2014.)

When installing the Splitter on my 2014 I considered easily removed plastic Scrivets some have suggested. Bought the smallest I could find BUT the hole required was still much bigger than the smaller diameter hole needed for rivets I wound-up using. Same as used on my side skirts.

Installing with screws or 3M tape has worked for some BUT IMO having brushed up against mine several times in 3 years in my 2014, and concerned when a passenger left, I suggest folks considering the decision - use rivets. Can see where spinning when removing can be an issue but I had no problem when I removed and replaced one on the 2014.

DALE#3

Screws need meat,thickness to hold properly.These rocker panels are so friggen thin.
It's like trying to hang a picture on drywall using the paper only to hold the screw.
Well not that drastic,Ha almost...
Fender washers are a additional area to hold cause rivet heads are small.
WARNING...Automatic tranny lines are in the drivers side rocker.
Control your drill,Your not in the Bedroom

rounder65

I’m thinking of getting a set of skirts from RPI Designs, they make a good product and their packaging is excellent. But not having seen a set that were factory installed, I’m a little confused on the use of rivets and or screws. The holes being drilled are they drilled only through the panel or the panel and frame. Some of the screws I’ve seen don’t seem long enough to reach or have a good grip on the frame. The GM rivets, from what I know, are for material fastening from 1mm to 10mm, again not very long if going through the frame.

just curious, is it just through the panel or the panel and frame.

JerryU

The added attachments do NOT go into the aluminum frame. They are strictly on the composite body panels. That is why screws, IMO, are not useful.. You need more than a few threads in that relatively soft material to hold. A rivet expands behind the panel and GM uses "mushroom head" rivets to spread the load on the outside.

69L79

I was thinking of adding side skirts to my Z51. But, all this drilling, screw, rivet talk has me wondering is it worth it? I am adding splash guards. And, maybe, calling it a day.