A little confused with Active Rev Match
#21
Drifting
M7s have two paddles.
ARM works on upshifts and downshifts on mine the few times I've tried it, however it can be 'fooled' if you are not selecting the next sequential gear, such as a 5-3 downshift / 3-5 upshift. Because of this I generally don't use it for street driving, but it is fantastic for downshifts while performance driving.
ARM works on upshifts and downshifts on mine the few times I've tried it, however it can be 'fooled' if you are not selecting the next sequential gear, such as a 5-3 downshift / 3-5 upshift. Because of this I generally don't use it for street driving, but it is fantastic for downshifts while performance driving.
#22
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: NE South Carolina
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Did not think it was working on upshifts either as it doesn't do anything different the way I shift. However validated it does IF shifting very slow. Normally when you shift you take your foot off the gas peddle and the engine reduces in rpm while you shift to the next highest gear. If you shift very slowly the rpm will decrease more than needed. With Rev Match it holds to the proper rpm for about 1 1/2 to 2 seconds. Never shift that slow so don't perceive it doing anything!
I have been driving standard shifts in every DD for 55+ years. Quite good at heel-toe (or toe-side of foot in cars with good peddle position, like Vettes.) However at lower rpm's, much harder to modulate the throttle to get a perfect match. These are places I find it most useful.
When cruising in town in 5th at 45 mph that is only ~1400 rpm. When making a turn want to be in 3rd, which is only 2500 rpm at 40 mph. Just shift directly to 3rd and Rev Match makes it a perfectly smooth transition, every time.
Same when leaving an Interstate on the exit ramp. Driving in 7th at 70 mph is only ~1500 rpm. No need to go through two other overdrives, 6th and 5th to get to where it would be best when off the Intestate, direct drive 4th. That is only 2600 rpm at 60 mph. So back off the throttle, let it cost and Rev Match makes a perfectly smooth transition. I also use 4th when accelerating past 18 wheels to minimize exposure time to thrown rocks! The shifter springs help, just pull back on the shifter with no side force and you're in 4th. When past, shift back directly to 7th! The C7 is the first car I have owned where even though the clutch was depressed, when you shift back to 7th no need to hit cruise control Resume button, it resumes automatically!
Last edited by JerryU; 12-22-2017 at 09:00 AM.
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Skid Row Joe (12-22-2017)
#23
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
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Location: NE South Carolina
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M7s have two paddles.
ARM works on upshifts and downshifts on mine the few times I've tried it, however it can be 'fooled' if you are not selecting the next sequential gear, such as a 5-3 downshift / 3-5 upshift. Because of this I generally don't use it for street driving, but it is fantastic for downshifts while performance driving.
ARM works on upshifts and downshifts on mine the few times I've tried it, however it can be 'fooled' if you are not selecting the next sequential gear, such as a 5-3 downshift / 3-5 upshift. Because of this I generally don't use it for street driving, but it is fantastic for downshifts while performance driving.
There are two things I had to learn however:
1) Can't do what I did in my C6 and other cars when skipping a gear in a downshift. CAN'T put the car in the next lower gear even while keeping the clutch depressed-fools the computer! I have always done that as it spools up a cluster gear making less work for the syncros. However the Tremic M7 has triple syncros in most gears. One is carbon faced. Let them worry about spooling up the gears! Took me a while to break that habit.
2) Some folks complain about it over revving. Mine never does BUT did a test and duplicated a large over rev. While driving in 5th, moved the lever as if for my favorite 5th to 3rd downshift shift. However I was purposely not careful with the shift lever when in neutral. I moved it slightly to the 1st 2nd gate WHILE ONLY IN THE NEUTRAL GATE. Never moved it into either gear. The engine revved as if I was planning to shift to 2nd. The Hall sensors don't wait for you to shift into a gear, they anticipate what they think you want to do!
So be very careful where you put the shift lever, even when in the neutral gate!
Funny, I use it all the time when driving, except occasionally when performance driving, I shut it off to keep my toe-side of foot skills honed! Much easier to stab the throttle when you're down shifting one gear and will be at a high rpm in the lower gear!
Last edited by JerryU; 12-22-2017 at 09:24 AM.
#24
Le Mans Master
And it's damn annoying that they disabled it.
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Skid Row Joe (12-22-2017)
#25
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
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Skid Row Joe (12-22-2017)
#26
#27
Safety Car
I bought mine 4 weeks ago today, driven it 540 miles, and I never noticed the Left side REV MATCH. I only engage the Right paddle, shortly after starting car.
I went out to my garage, and sat there almost in disbelief that I hadn't noticed it until I was forced to check my own 2017 M7-C7.
I absolutely knew that the A6&A8s, had Paddles on both sides. I most certainly was not going to buy another A-transmission.
I went out to my garage, and sat there almost in disbelief that I hadn't noticed it until I was forced to check my own 2017 M7-C7.
I absolutely knew that the A6&A8s, had Paddles on both sides. I most certainly was not going to buy another A-transmission.
Last edited by defaria; 12-22-2017 at 01:11 PM.
#28
#29
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Rev Match is the best thing since syncromesh, IMO! Used it all the time since I got my September 2013 built C7 Z51 and now on my Grand Sport.
Did not think it was working on upshifts either as it doesn't do anything different the way I shift. However validated it does IF shifting very slow. Normally when you shift you take your foot off the gas peddle and the engine reduces in rpm while you shift to the next highest gear. If you shift very slowly the rpm will decrease more than needed. With Rev Match it holds to the proper rpm for about 1 1/2 to 2 seconds. Never shift that slow so don't perceive it doing anything!
I have been driving standard shifts in every DD for 55+ years. Quite good at heel-toe (or toe-side of foot in cars with good peddle position, like Vettes.) However at lower rpm's, much harder to modulate the throttle to get a perfect match. These are places I find it most useful.
When cruising in town in 5th at 45 mph that is only ~1400 rpm. When making a turn want to be in 3rd, which is only 2500 rpm at 40 mph. Just shift directly to 3rd and Rev Match makes it a perfectly smooth transition, every time.
Same when leaving an Interstate on the exit ramp. Driving in 7th at 70 mph is only ~1500 rpm. No need to go through two other overdrives, 6th and 5th to get to where it would be best when off the Intestate, direct drive 4th. That is only 2600 rpm at 60 mph. So back off the throttle, let it cost and Rev Match makes a perfectly smooth transition. I also use 4th when accelerating past 18 wheels to minimize exposure time to thrown rocks! The shifter springs help, just pull back on the shifter with no side force and you're in 4th. When past, shift back directly to 7th! The C7 is the first car I have owned where even though the clutch was depressed, when you shift back to 7th no need to hit cruise control Resume button, it resumes automatically!
Did not think it was working on upshifts either as it doesn't do anything different the way I shift. However validated it does IF shifting very slow. Normally when you shift you take your foot off the gas peddle and the engine reduces in rpm while you shift to the next highest gear. If you shift very slowly the rpm will decrease more than needed. With Rev Match it holds to the proper rpm for about 1 1/2 to 2 seconds. Never shift that slow so don't perceive it doing anything!
I have been driving standard shifts in every DD for 55+ years. Quite good at heel-toe (or toe-side of foot in cars with good peddle position, like Vettes.) However at lower rpm's, much harder to modulate the throttle to get a perfect match. These are places I find it most useful.
When cruising in town in 5th at 45 mph that is only ~1400 rpm. When making a turn want to be in 3rd, which is only 2500 rpm at 40 mph. Just shift directly to 3rd and Rev Match makes it a perfectly smooth transition, every time.
Same when leaving an Interstate on the exit ramp. Driving in 7th at 70 mph is only ~1500 rpm. No need to go through two other overdrives, 6th and 5th to get to where it would be best when off the Intestate, direct drive 4th. That is only 2600 rpm at 60 mph. So back off the throttle, let it cost and Rev Match makes a perfectly smooth transition. I also use 4th when accelerating past 18 wheels to minimize exposure time to thrown rocks! The shifter springs help, just pull back on the shifter with no side force and you're in 4th. When past, shift back directly to 7th! The C7 is the first car I have owned where even though the clutch was depressed, when you shift back to 7th no need to hit cruise control Resume button, it resumes automatically!
#30
Le Mans Master
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Judgment Day (12-22-2017)
#34
#35
Le Mans Master
#36
Drifting
#37
Intermediate
Thread Starter
1–4 Shift Message
When the DIC displays this
message, the vehicle can only be
shifted from 1 (First) to 4 (Fourth).
See Transmission Messages 0 131.
Downshifting
Do not downshift into the gear at a
speed greater than shown:
1 (First) 72 km/h (45 mph)
2 (Second) 107 km/h (67 mph)
3 (Third) 160 km/h
(100 mph)
4 (Fourth) 233 km/h
(145 mph)
Caution
When downshifting, if more than
one gear is skipped, or the engine
is racing when the clutch pedal is
released, the engine, clutch,
driveshaft or transmission could
be damaged.
When the DIC displays this
message, the vehicle can only be
shifted from 1 (First) to 4 (Fourth).
See Transmission Messages 0 131.
Downshifting
Do not downshift into the gear at a
speed greater than shown:
1 (First) 72 km/h (45 mph)
2 (Second) 107 km/h (67 mph)
3 (Third) 160 km/h
(100 mph)
4 (Fourth) 233 km/h
(145 mph)
Caution
When downshifting, if more than
one gear is skipped, or the engine
is racing when the clutch pedal is
released, the engine, clutch,
driveshaft or transmission could
be damaged.
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Skid Row Joe (12-22-2017)
#38
Right, it doesn't mean you can't skip a gear when down shifting, it just means you better not be at a speed that won't support the lower gear you're shifting to per the speed guidelines above.
If you exceed those limits, you risk running the engine well above redline and suffering a catastophic engine failure. There is a thread running here right now with ugly pictures of a completely destroyed engine caused by exactly that.
If you exceed those limits, you risk running the engine well above redline and suffering a catastophic engine failure. There is a thread running here right now with ugly pictures of a completely destroyed engine caused by exactly that.
Last edited by Foosh; 12-22-2017 at 03:43 PM.
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JerryU (12-22-2017)
#39
Pro
Member Since: Jan 2010
Location: SF Bay Area, Peoples' Republik of California
Posts: 623
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Can someone give me a little advice on ARM? Not sure how it works. Do you only press one of the levers once, and then it is on for good until car is turned off? Owner's manual says "ARM will also NOT operate when the accelerator pedal is applied." Isn't the accelerator pedal basically always applied, except for the split second when the clutch is engaged and the gear is shifted? Or is it referring to when you are coasting? Thanks for any input.
I've had a real hard time getting used to taking my foot off the throttle while shifting. I've had the Vette over a year now (still only about 3100 miles though) and if I don't pay attention to it, I forget, and blip the throttle. It doesn't happen too often, but often enough to be irritated with myself...
Speaking of irritating, the 1-4 skip shift took me into fourth the other day for the first time... man, I was really disappointed in myself when that happened!
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Skid Row Joe (12-22-2017)
#40
Melting Slicks
it works for upshifting too, take you time on a shift and instead of the car going to idle, and you letting the clutch out and bringing the RPMs back up to that next gear..
it will only let the rpms drop to the next gears match spot... if you wait for longer then 3-4 seconds it will then give up and let the car drop to idle.
it will only let the rpms drop to the next gears match spot... if you wait for longer then 3-4 seconds it will then give up and let the car drop to idle.