Kevin A Jones

I've been looking around here for some time trying to find the best jacking pucks and jack combination to use for raising my '17 Grand Sport without risk of damaging the GM side skirts.

I've found that the Harbor Freight 2-ton (#68050) low profile/long reach jack works great along with the standard (not extended model) Reverse Logic jacking pucks (#C28-63). With pucks installed and #68050 lifting there's just over an inch clearance between the jack and the skirts.

I expect these Reverse Logic pucks will also work fine for dealership/repair shop jacking systems as well.

I sold dozens of both expensive leading brand and inexpensive jacks when I had my Auto Parts stores and never had an issue or warranty claim with either so don't expect any problems with the HF #68050. It seems to be quite a jack for the $119.95 that I paid.

chronage

Good info for new owners. I'm using a similar combo -- HF 3-ton low profile steel jack (#62326) with RL pucks. Clears my Zero1-style cf skirts.

Maxie2U

In addition to jacking pucks, Harbor Freight low profile jack I brought a set of these. Yes, they are somewhat pricey then again I have zero concern now safely putting the car up on jackstands and getting under the car.

JerryU

Have the same Jack (and several others) and Reverse Logic Jack Pads (and several others.)

One issue I found compared to my smaller HF jacks is when lifting on even my titled garage floor the heavy jack (~95 lbs) does NOT roll into the car easily or at all! Was concerned about lifting on my rough concrete driveway! The long arm means it does not have to move in as far as my short arm jacks BUT for a high lift it MUST move in to keep the jack saddle from slipping off of the Jack Pad! Frankly I know from experience with a shorter arm jack lifting on a rough concrete driveway!

I decided to add extra height to the jack saddle by welding on a strip of metal to the edge. That solved the issue, the saddle pulls the jack in. It all fits fine on my Grand Sport with Stage 2 aero side skirts.

Don't have to do that but watch carefully that the jack moves in and the saddle stays centered on higher lifts.

Below are some pics showing the issue.






For a lift equal to the max lift to my Short Arm Jack this is how much my other longer arm jacks must move into the car to keep the saddle centered on the jack pad. Note the increased saddle rim I added that will pull the jack in, even on a rough concrete surface.

REZ1

There is a post about using real pucks with an eyebolt in the center.

They work great..!

Kevin A Jones

I'm not totally convinced all that is necessary, however I would strongly caution to only attempt jacking a vehicle on a smooth/level and structurally sound surface.

JerryU

As I said, no need to do what I did IF the jack is moving into the car! The need to move in is always a requirement and what I watched for every time I jack the car. Just one time not quite enough with a short arm jack! The mechanics and geometry as to why, should need no convincing!

That long arm HF jack is very heavy, 95 pounds as I recall. Understood that when I put it across the top of a shopping cart at Harbor Freight! That was a help in getting in the SUV, just had to slide it off!

I bought that “long lift arm” jack because I wanted to have less distance for it to move into the car but saw it didn't move in at all when jacking on my titled garage floor. From time to time I have a need to jack the Vette high on my rougher surface concrete driveway and wanted to be sure the jack saddle did not slide off the jack pad. That is why I added the extra jack saddle depth, to prevent that possibility and have it help move the jack inward as the car was raised.



Grand Sport Lifted on Tiled Garage Floor. Long arm jack did did not move into the Vette.

2014 C7 Lifted on Rougher Surface Concrete Driveway with Short Arm Jack. Moving into the car is more an issue with a short arm jack so be sure the rear casters are positioned to help it move in and as you lift, it is doing just that!

MSG C5

Great pics. Glad to see that the standard reverse logic pucks have enough height to clear the GM side skirts.

Kevin A Jones

Thanks, I was concerned as whether to purchase the standard or their 'extended height' pucks which are 15mm taller. As shown the standard work fine, at least for the standard GS side skirts.

I also like how the puck's built-in stop on the shaft of the T-nut restrict the tool from being turned more than 90 degrees once the tool is inserted which insures it's anchored into the chassis.

TEXHAWK0

I usually just jack my car up a minimum amount to reach drain plug, remove wheel, etc. As you can see, the jack does not have to lift very high to just get the tire off the ground and be able to roll the wheel off.






Then, of course, there is this method!

OVR60

Is that the way the door and rocker panel were fit at the factory?

Kevin A Jones

Yes, the fit/alignment is actually good though the photo angle is making it appear off.

Bill Dearborn

Here are a couple pics I took today as I changed front brake pads and bled the brakes.














Changed both the brake pads on both front wheels and bled the brake fluid from all 4 calipers using one jack and one jack stand. Was able to do three wheels without moving jack once I got jack stand raised three notches and fit under the front cross member. After both front tires were reinstalled I raised the jack far enough to lift the rear wheel off the ground and moved the jackstand to the left side of the rear cross member and removed the rear wheel.

I have been saying for years you don't need cross beam adapters or fancy jacking rigs to jack any Corvette. One thing I did learn today is the C7 Z06 frame is much stiffer than the C6Z frame or the C5 steel frame. As the pictures show the rear wheel isn't all that much lower than the front wheel with the jack up. On my C5s and the C6Z the rear would droop more.

The jack is the small Harbor Freight Jack that I have been using for 5 years.

Bill

iTom

Kevin- I'm buying my 1st Corvette (2019 GS) and wanted to get your opinion on the Harbor Freight 3 Ton low profile jack model 61253. It's not as long as the model 68050 that you recommend, but the 61253 is only $89 compared to $139 for the 68050. I have a smooth garage floor.

iTom

The jack is the small Harbor Freight Jack that I have been using for 5 years.

BillLast edited by Bill Dearborn; 01-23-2018 at 10:42 PM.

Bill- What model is your Harbor Freight jack?

Thanks,

Tom

Edinacorvette

**Hi - I'm going to build wheel lift blocks like yours but was considering a different design. Would you be willing to tell me the wood dimension sizes you used, the height, etc.?
Any creaking, safety issues?
Any issues jacking and putting the blocks under one wheel at time, like it may roll off a block?
thanks,

Bill Dearborn

Not sure of the model number. It is the cheapest of the their jacks. It is light, compact and easy to carry around. It is fine for getting the car off the ground quickly and letting me work on it at the track where time is limited between sessions. When you are throwing all of your tools, spare parts and fluids into the back end of a Tahoe you don't want a big jack taking up space and adding unneeded weight over the rear axle.

Bill

Kevin A Jones

Sorry for my delayed response I totally missed your post until now.
I looked hard at both 2 and 3-ton, however I really like the long reach of the 2-ton (68050) along with it being lower. I wanted to be sure not to risk cracking my skirts and feel the longer reach may come in handy for jacking underneath as opposed to the frame rail. I also like the versatility of both a foot pedal and handle for raising. The foot pedal comes in super handy if car is near a wall and the handle doesn't have space to travel up and down to jack.
It is heavier than the 3-ton at about 90lbs but I'm only going to be rolling it not picking it up very often.

Though they never seem to put the 68050 on sale, I did catch it for $119.95. I'm glad I went with the 2-ton.

JerryU

This is even better. Have a PDF that includes exactly how I made them: http://netwelding.com/Jacking_A_C7.pdf

At the end is a detailed structural analysis with safety factors even if poorly constructed! Even with sloppy construction the safety factor is 15! What does that mean? A bridge uses safety factors of ~3!

I did the analysis (math shown) because a poster said he would not trust them! He was going to stack 2X12 boards as long! That will work but will weight ~40 pounds versus these that are 8 lbs They will support more than the plastic commercial ones sold for $60!

I have stanchions made from fiberglass that I used when building my Street Rod. They are 12 inch high and require a two step jacking procedure. Not needed for oil changes!

Have to use a wheel stop in the front when jacking the rear! You'll see an inexpensive one from HF! I used bricks before I bought it! I have two jacks so jack both sides when I use them but would work fine jacking one side at a time.



Street Rod was up for months as the exhaust was fabricated, wiring done, trans cooler installed, etc, etc,

iTom

Is that the 1.5 Ton aluminum jack from Harbor freight? If so, I want to get one. They're on sale for $59 at Harbor Freight