stevettec7

Looking to get these from HFT so I can use my cross-brace jack adapters finally. I’ve seen reviews that Corvette owners say these work for them. Curious if anyone has used them with a splitter installed?

Travelor

Certainly NOT if they are Stage two or three.

BuLion

that is just a cartoon doesn't really say length. I had a custom set made from race ramps that overall are 68 long (with 5" flat transition at hoist) and 7 high to work with my 4 post...with that I have ~1/2" clearance to stage 2 splitter as reference.

Rangerdog1

They don't look as if they would clear a corvette even without a split-er installed. They look like a set sold by WalMart under a different name.

Bill Dearborn

I sort of doubt it. They look too short. The splitter on a Z06 is 5 5/8 inches off the ground and about 35 inches in front of the center of the front tire contact patch. Don't worry about the cross beam adapter it isn't required. Nothing in the GM info says one is required and it is far easier to jack the car from the side and place jack stands under the car Vs trying to drive it up on ramps to jack it further.



Jacking Puck inserted in front shipping slot and smallest Harbor Freight Racing Jack.



Proper placement of Jack Stand under front cross member.



Right front wheel coming off the ground once car is lowered onto jack stand under left side of front cross member.



Another picture showing the right front wheel off the ground while car is resting on jack stand and jack. Can get three wheels off the ground if jack stand is set high enough.

Been lifting Corvettes like this since 1972 including C3s, C4s, C5s, C6s and now the C7. Have never had a problem with doors jamming, cracking fiberglass or the suspension. Have never used a cross beam adapter and jacked from the center. All of that stuff is just Urban Myth.

Bill

GOC

I remember someone on the forum said they used these ramps before and they worked on a C7 with no splitter. My concern would be the review that they crack and collapse. Not sure how creditable they are, but it would be a big mess if it partially collapses and your the car is stuck.

GOC

Thanks for the posting the pics. For an oil change, can we get by with just jacking up one side?

stevettec7

Bill Dearborn

NO, since you have to get under the car you need more than one firm support. No way would I get under a car supported with one jack stand and one jack. What I do is jack the car as high as I can get it on one side, place the jackstand on that side, lower the jack until the car's weight is on the jackstand and then go over to the other side of the car and use the jack to bring it up to the same level as the first side before placing the jack stand on that side.

When I am at the track I use the pictured method to change tires and brake pads and am never under the car. When you are trying to make changes in the half hour to hour between driving sessions you need to be fast and safe. First problem is getting the car far enough in the air so the jack fits under it. I use a couple of staggered 2x6s behind the front wheel and back up on them so I have clearance for the jack (race tires can be a smaller diameter than stock tires). Also at VIR they require you to have a board under the jack stands and the jack to prevent damage to the asphalt so that means everything has to be raised up enough to get the required boards in place. Changing tires I just use the jack and changing brake pads I use the jack and a jack stand.

If I have to change a rotor which requires removing the caliper I use more support since I will be sticking my head in the wheel well. What I do then is jack the car on one side remove the front wheel on that side, place the jackstand, lower the car a little to pull the other wheel off the ground, remove it and place a jackstand under the cross member on that side. Then I adjust the jack so the weight is on both jack stands. The car isn't level but it is solid and won't drop if something fails. Some people also slide their wheels under the car while it is on jackstands.

Bill

chronage

Correct, those are generic Rhino Ramps, and they won't clear the bumper even without a splitter. They barely clear my G37 sedan's.

GOC

Which jack puck do you recommend? Any issues with the urethane pucks?

0Fred@ReverseLogic

Race Ramps devised a simple yardstick test to determine if the car-to-ramp clearance was adequate with their 56" and 67" ramps.

1) Lightly push one end of yardstick against the inboard edge of a front tire.

2) Raise the other end if the yardstick until the stick touches the car anywhere along the length of the yardstick.

3) Measure the height of the raised end of the yardstick. The height where the car contacts the stick is not relevant.

4) If the height is 7.25" or more the 56" and 67" ramps with a 10.8 degree incline will clear. If the height is 5" to 7.25" then one of the ramp models with a 6.8 degree incline will clear.

See attached drawing.

A somewhat easier way to visualize the amount of car-to-ramp clearance is to do the test a slightly different way.

1) Lightly push one end of yardstick against the inboard edge of a front tire.

2) Prop the opposite end of the yardstick up until it is either 5", 7.25", or 10.5" high. You can prop the stick up anywhere along its length with whatever is handy (Rock, block of wood, cigarette pack, etc).

When raised 10.5" high the yardstick will approximate the slope of the Rhino ramp. At 7.25" it will show you the clearance with the 56" or 67" ramps. At 5" high the yardstick will be the same incline as one of the 2-stage incline ramp models (RR-72-2, RLL-80-2, RLL-87-2).

Avanti

Depends on how long they are to the level part and how high that is, but I agree that they appear too steep for any Vette since perhaps the C3... except, possibly for the rear. They are certainly cheap enough to buy just for that, imho.

GTX JOHN

I have these (Rhino) ramps.....The WILL NOT work with even Poverty Stage 1!

I put my one ton truck on them so weight is not the problem

iclick

If you have rudimentary tools you can make ramps for even less money that'll work with a C7 with poverty splitter. Here's what I made from 2x12" boards, and I later added a third tier with a lower board (not shown) to get the car up higher. Can provide more specific info if interested.

stevettec7

iclick

The two tiers are held together with four 2½" deck screws (see small dots on top board) with several more for the vertical backstop. The white stuff is E6000 glue, but that's an unnecessary step. See this thread for details on adding a detachable third tier (Reply #28 & 29) and more ideas from others.

They work great and clear the poverty splitter. The downside is that they're fairly heavy and you can't drive both ends of the car up on four ramps--i.e., only front or rear. This is because you must position the ramps toward the front for the front of the car and the rear for the rear. I use these along with my jack and x-beam, described in an earlier post in the linked thread. If you need to get the ramps higher, after riding up on the ramps jack it up using an x-beam and slip in another small piece of 2x12" on top the ramp, which doesn't need to be screwed down. Pull them out before driving the car down.

I just took delivery of a Quickjack BL5000SLX that may negate the need for all of the above in the future for most tasks.

Toz

I use these ramps for my oil changes, but I have to jack up my Stingray and put them under the front tires. Leaves plenty of clearance to do an oil change. The car does not even get close to clearing the ramps. Much too short.

stevettec7

Thanks for the reply. What I was trying to ask was do they SLIDE on your floor when driving up on them?

iclick

No, mine have never slid on the bare concrete garage floor.