Oops - another jack failure
#61
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#62
Safety Car
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SoCal Events Coordinator
St. Jude Donor '12
I don't know much about body work on corvettes but the C6 rockers were about $5k for each side. Unk about the C7's but i guessing well over $5k
#63
Le Mans Master
Sorry about your issue. However it happened to me, just not as much damage. First to answer your question, the rocker panel is sold as one piece that goes up both sides of the fender. The composite part is not expensive but they must blend the paint. When I brought my 2014 in to have the dif oil level checked per a GM letter, I told the service scheduler to be sure they used my jack pads that were in a clear plastic bag on the passenger seat. She said, "Don't worry I will only let them use the alignment rack as we just cracked a Vette rocker panel and I am having to schedule it for repair. Not cheap!" I do my own oil changes!
Although it may be possible for a quality body shop to fix the door, doubt they will and the insurance will pay for it and the rocker panel repair.
JACKING ISSUE:
Been jacking cars for 60 years. Never had an issue until one time with my 2014 C7 where my short arm jack slipped off the jack pad. My only issue was the LG Motorsports carbon fiber side skirt! Fortunately they were able to supply just the one side that I replaced! However I modified my "How To Jack a C7" from that time to include the problem with cautions!
In fact my pic/text PDF starts with the top pic below since I have cautioned about being sure the jack moves in when you are lifting from when I got my C7! In this case I did not follow my own advice!
That was with my short arm jack lifting at it's max lift capability. In required moving in a full 2.6 inches. So when I bought my Grand Sport thought I would invest in a long arm jack. The one from Harbor Freight weighs 95 pounds! In my first use I was lifting on my smooth, tiled garage floor. The heavy jack was not pulling itself into the car! To have a low min lift spec the jack saddle has a very small lip! The jack pad could possible slip particularly if I was jacking on my concrete driveway where the "slip incident" occurred! Decided I would weld on a 1/2 inch higher lip! Now it will pull the jack in! That is not really needed as you just have to place the jack casters to they help the jack move in and look at the jack saddle to jack pad relationship at each lift. I usually did that but this one time! Only takes once!
This is one pic of some 35 in a 14 page PDF on "How To Jack a C7." It covers GM recommended lift points, jack pad types, permanent or removable (need high removable pads if you have side skirts) etc etc. If interested: http://netwelding.com/Jacking_A_C7.pdf
Like you are doing with this post, I try to warn on all my ~35 PDF's of installs, mods etc of issues I encounter.
The issue that broke my side skirt occurred with my short arm jack that needed to move in 2.6 inches at max lift. Bought the long arm jack after and thought that would solve the issue. "Almost did" but as a precaution I added to the jack saddle recess depth!
Although it may be possible for a quality body shop to fix the door, doubt they will and the insurance will pay for it and the rocker panel repair.
JACKING ISSUE:
Been jacking cars for 60 years. Never had an issue until one time with my 2014 C7 where my short arm jack slipped off the jack pad. My only issue was the LG Motorsports carbon fiber side skirt! Fortunately they were able to supply just the one side that I replaced! However I modified my "How To Jack a C7" from that time to include the problem with cautions!
In fact my pic/text PDF starts with the top pic below since I have cautioned about being sure the jack moves in when you are lifting from when I got my C7! In this case I did not follow my own advice!
That was with my short arm jack lifting at it's max lift capability. In required moving in a full 2.6 inches. So when I bought my Grand Sport thought I would invest in a long arm jack. The one from Harbor Freight weighs 95 pounds! In my first use I was lifting on my smooth, tiled garage floor. The heavy jack was not pulling itself into the car! To have a low min lift spec the jack saddle has a very small lip! The jack pad could possible slip particularly if I was jacking on my concrete driveway where the "slip incident" occurred! Decided I would weld on a 1/2 inch higher lip! Now it will pull the jack in! That is not really needed as you just have to place the jack casters to they help the jack move in and look at the jack saddle to jack pad relationship at each lift. I usually did that but this one time! Only takes once!
This is one pic of some 35 in a 14 page PDF on "How To Jack a C7." It covers GM recommended lift points, jack pad types, permanent or removable (need high removable pads if you have side skirts) etc etc. If interested: http://netwelding.com/Jacking_A_C7.pdf
Like you are doing with this post, I try to warn on all my ~35 PDF's of installs, mods etc of issues I encounter.
The issue that broke my side skirt occurred with my short arm jack that needed to move in 2.6 inches at max lift. Bought the long arm jack after and thought that would solve the issue. "Almost did" but as a precaution I added to the jack saddle recess depth!
The OP’s post is already helping others like me Based on your reply I am now aware of the need for jack to pull itself into the car as I jack. I will now pay close attention when jacking to see if the jack is actually moving in.
Last edited by Maxie2U; 09-03-2018 at 02:56 AM.
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JerryU (02-11-2018)
#64
Le Mans Master
Those who say it should be covered either under the car insurance and/or home owner’s policy clearly never read their policies. So it’s time to read your policies!
NEITHER cover DIY mishaps.
BTW, home owner policies EXCLUDE autos under their home insurance comprehensive policies. I know that for a fact. When I was putting my C7 in storage for winter I was about to suspend my auto insurance but first decided to read the home owner policy it stated it excludes autos but it does cover “small engines” attached to lawn mowers, power trimmers, etc and those items are only covered in case of fire or theft.
After reading my home owner policy I called my insurance agent and confirmed autos are not covered under home owner policies not even in case of house fires or theft. Those events are only covered under the auto comprehensive insurance policy. In the end, I suspended the “collision” portion of the policy but kept the “comprehensive” auto insurance in place. That portion of the policy only costs $21.00 for six months.
NEITHER cover DIY mishaps.
BTW, home owner policies EXCLUDE autos under their home insurance comprehensive policies. I know that for a fact. When I was putting my C7 in storage for winter I was about to suspend my auto insurance but first decided to read the home owner policy it stated it excludes autos but it does cover “small engines” attached to lawn mowers, power trimmers, etc and those items are only covered in case of fire or theft.
After reading my home owner policy I called my insurance agent and confirmed autos are not covered under home owner policies not even in case of house fires or theft. Those events are only covered under the auto comprehensive insurance policy. In the end, I suspended the “collision” portion of the policy but kept the “comprehensive” auto insurance in place. That portion of the policy only costs $21.00 for six months.
Last edited by Maxie2U; 02-11-2018 at 06:39 PM.
#65
Melting Slicks
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2022 C8 of the Year Finalist - Modified
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I still don't get going to the trouble of dealing with any of this jacking the car, jack stands, etc. for a simple oil change. That's what ramps are for.
Good info on jack safety here for other DIY projects where they are actually needed, though.
Good info on jack safety here for other DIY projects where they are actually needed, though.
#66
Instructor
Glad to hear that no one was hurt, cars can always be fixed. I use the hard plastic pucks...the rough jacking surface combined with the rubber pad on my low profile jack makes it pretty hard to slip. Best of luck getting the car back together
#67
Cruising
Thread Starter
I am not going to give up on trying to file a claim. I will keep everyone posted on how it goes with the insurance and repairs.
I know many think ramps are the safer option and they very well may be, but in the spirit of trying to let others learn from this mistake, don’t forget that they can be dangerous too. I’ve seen a few people drive right over their ramps only to need a jack to recover the car. So don’t get complacent that your ramp, lift or jack is the “safe” option. They all have risk when lifting a vehicle. Be safe, go slow and double check yourself every time.
I know many think ramps are the safer option and they very well may be, but in the spirit of trying to let others learn from this mistake, don’t forget that they can be dangerous too. I’ve seen a few people drive right over their ramps only to need a jack to recover the car. So don’t get complacent that your ramp, lift or jack is the “safe” option. They all have risk when lifting a vehicle. Be safe, go slow and double check yourself every time.
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#68
Le Mans Master
100%
The metal pucks that are being sold look to me like an accident just waiting to happen. They are just too slippery. The hard plastic jacking pucks that I used were actually BMW pucks that snap into the frame holes and are permanent installation. They fit my C6 and I removed them and are now in my C7.
The metal pucks that are being sold look to me like an accident just waiting to happen. They are just too slippery. The hard plastic jacking pucks that I used were actually BMW pucks that snap into the frame holes and are permanent installation. They fit my C6 and I removed them and are now in my C7.
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#69
Melting Slicks
Yes, indeed thanks for swallowing your pride and providing an important reminder to many.
Along those lines, and not intended for you, just general info, the leave-in hard plastic jacking pucks are less than $50, and coupled with a proper floor jack with rubber lifting pad, make it virtually impossible for a vehicle to fall off the jack.
Along those lines, and not intended for you, just general info, the leave-in hard plastic jacking pucks are less than $50, and coupled with a proper floor jack with rubber lifting pad, make it virtually impossible for a vehicle to fall off the jack.
#70
Le Mans Master
The price of ramps and jacks and stands? Close to price for a lift if you have room?
Last edited by DALE#3; 02-11-2018 at 03:06 PM.
#71
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So I don't post much but my own stupidity has brought me out of hiding. I was doing my first oil change today (after my 5 free ones) and to cut to the chase, the car fell off the jack while lifting. I destroyed my passenger fender, rocker panel and door. Its not the first time I lifted my corvette and certainly not the first oil change I have done in my life.
So now I have to swallow my pride and brace myself for my self inflicted repair costs.
Can anyone throw out some estimates for how much this is going to run me and any body shop recommendations in San Diego/Southern California?
On to the main event, brace yourself for some gruesome content:
So now I have to swallow my pride and brace myself for my self inflicted repair costs.
Can anyone throw out some estimates for how much this is going to run me and any body shop recommendations in San Diego/Southern California?
On to the main event, brace yourself for some gruesome content:
The aperture panel is the killer. Normally I would recommend repairing it Vs replacing but I doubt a good looking repair can be made with everything that is missing. The panel is glued to the frame and surrounds the door opening and includes the broken part that we call the rocker panel. Number 1 in the diagram.
That means the door, front fender, rear quarter and probably the interior trim panels on the B pillar have to be removed so the shop can replace the aperture panel.
It might be worth talking to the insurance company and see if this might be covered under the comprehensive portion of your insurance policy. Unlike Collision claims Comp claims aren't used against you from a safe driver discount or increased premium standpoint.
Bill
#72
So I don't post much but my own stupidity has brought me out of hiding. I was doing my first oil change today (after my 5 free ones) and to cut to the chase, the car fell off the jack while lifting. I destroyed my passenger fender, rocker panel and door. Its not the first time I lifted my corvette and certainly not the first oil change I have done in my life.
So now I have to swallow my pride and brace myself for my self inflicted repair costs.
Can anyone throw out some estimates for how much this is going to run me and any body shop recommendations in San Diego/Southern California?
On to the main event, brace yourself for some gruesome content:
So now I have to swallow my pride and brace myself for my self inflicted repair costs.
Can anyone throw out some estimates for how much this is going to run me and any body shop recommendations in San Diego/Southern California?
On to the main event, brace yourself for some gruesome content:
#73
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
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^^^
He had the self confidence to tell us so others are cautioned!
1) I added info about my jack slipping after it occurred over a year ago in a PDF of "Jacking a C7."
2) My issues with scarping the splitter on my 2014 are covered on a PDF showing how to install a Scrape Armor splitter protector. With pics of that scaped BUT splitter was fine.
3) The problem with mounting the Vitesse Throttle Controller after the owner of the company posted NOT to put it behind the carpet.
4) Repairing the attachment of the shift boot to the chrome ring then dealing with the sheared screw head on the OEM shift **** when installing a shift ****.
5) Defining how to remove the power board in a battery replace (and other tips) when the service manual says simple "remove the power board!" Not so obvious as to how!
6) Getting the Hood vent off by myself to install one made of CF when the company that sold and installs them said it takes two people.
7) Getting the brake pads off an early Z51 that has high temp double sided tape holding them to the pistons. Had to devise a way as the forum nor my friend who owns a 7 bay auto repair shop were any help!
Some of us try to help others!
He had the self confidence to tell us so others are cautioned!
1) I added info about my jack slipping after it occurred over a year ago in a PDF of "Jacking a C7."
2) My issues with scarping the splitter on my 2014 are covered on a PDF showing how to install a Scrape Armor splitter protector. With pics of that scaped BUT splitter was fine.
3) The problem with mounting the Vitesse Throttle Controller after the owner of the company posted NOT to put it behind the carpet.
4) Repairing the attachment of the shift boot to the chrome ring then dealing with the sheared screw head on the OEM shift **** when installing a shift ****.
5) Defining how to remove the power board in a battery replace (and other tips) when the service manual says simple "remove the power board!" Not so obvious as to how!
6) Getting the Hood vent off by myself to install one made of CF when the company that sold and installs them said it takes two people.
7) Getting the brake pads off an early Z51 that has high temp double sided tape holding them to the pistons. Had to devise a way as the forum nor my friend who owns a 7 bay auto repair shop were any help!
Some of us try to help others!
Last edited by JerryU; 02-11-2018 at 04:06 PM.
#74
^^^
He had the self confidence to tell us so others are cautioned!
1) I added info about my jack slipping after it occurred over a year ago in a PDF of "Jacking a C7."
2) My issues with scarping the splitter on my 2014 are covered on a PDF showing how to install a Scrape Armor splitter protector. With pics of that scaped BUT splitter was fine.
3) The problem with mounting the Vitesse Throttle Controller after the owner of the company posted NOT to put it behind the carpet.
4) Repairing the attachment of the shift boot to the chrome ring then dealing with the sheared screw head on the OEM shift **** when installing a shift ****.
5) Defining how to remove the power board in a battery replace (and other tips) when the service manual says simple "remove the power board!" Not so obvious as to how!
6) Getting the Hood vent off by myself to install one made of CF when the company that sold and installs them said it takes two people.
7) Getting the brake pads off an early Z51 that has high temp double sided tape holding them to the pistons. Had to devise a way as the forum nor my friend who owns a 7 bay auto repair shop were any help!
Some of us try to help others!
He had the self confidence to tell us so others are cautioned!
1) I added info about my jack slipping after it occurred over a year ago in a PDF of "Jacking a C7."
2) My issues with scarping the splitter on my 2014 are covered on a PDF showing how to install a Scrape Armor splitter protector. With pics of that scaped BUT splitter was fine.
3) The problem with mounting the Vitesse Throttle Controller after the owner of the company posted NOT to put it behind the carpet.
4) Repairing the attachment of the shift boot to the chrome ring then dealing with the sheared screw head on the OEM shift **** when installing a shift ****.
5) Defining how to remove the power board in a battery replace (and other tips) when the service manual says simple "remove the power board!" Not so obvious as to how!
6) Getting the Hood vent off by myself to install one made of CF when the company that sold and installs them said it takes two people.
7) Getting the brake pads off an early Z51 that has high temp double sided tape holding them to the pistons. Had to devise a way as the forum nor my friend who owns a 7 bay auto repair shop were any help!
Some of us try to help others!
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JerryU (02-11-2018)
#75
Helped me too. Getting my vet in a few weeks. I really appreciate everything that I learn each time I read through the posts on these threads.
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JerryU (02-11-2018)
#76
Race Director
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Good jacking tips but I use 1/8 “ metal plates under every jack I use. Jack can’t move in and out if the surface is not smooth
#77
Safety Car
I am lucky I have two friends that own lifts. Changing oil and working on my GS a breeze.
Forum buddy Tome. Lets me use his lift any time I need it. Great guy. I hope u get ur car fixed soon.<br/>**** happens.
Last edited by oldC5; 02-11-2018 at 09:55 PM.
#78
Pro
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sorry
i feel for your loss. i would suggest for the price and lessons learned that the car just goes back to the dealer. look at the damage! you are close to $7500. or more. that's a lot of oil changes. I would like to see any photos that a dealer did more damage. You are lucky you were not killed!! There is no excuse for this. as a fireman/investigator i have witnessed horrific injuries and death by novice people not experienced in what they are trying to do. You don't re-tile your floor because the tile is cheaper than having it installed. use gasoline to remove glue on concrete floor in basement. not experienced, didn't shut off pilot light on furnace or water heater. Let me know what your burn center bills amount to, and how much you saved on rebuilding your home. Yeah you had insurance......
Lesson learned. Next time use the dealer, they cannot do this much damage. if they did its their responsibility. Again sorry for your loss! Lesson learned
Lesson learned. Next time use the dealer, they cannot do this much damage. if they did its their responsibility. Again sorry for your loss! Lesson learned
#80
I don't feel so bad for telling the wife I wanted another lift at the shop....
I started with the 2 post to the left, now this one. I hate jacking up cars to crawl underneath them.. I'm betting the 2 lifts were still cheaper than the repairs you have..
I started with the 2 post to the left, now this one. I hate jacking up cars to crawl underneath them.. I'm betting the 2 lifts were still cheaper than the repairs you have..