xp800

and thanks! (as the author)




As the author of the above thread and having driven for 4 years across three different C7s with the NPP fuse out and now remote relayed...I can say I have had ZERO CELs or other issues.

As for pulling or replacing the NPP fuse with the car running, I've done it on a number of occasions without issue. And now with my wireless remote relay shown in the thread and below, I am essentially doing that same thing whenever I turn on the relay to "re-insert" the fuse so that the NPP valves abide by the ESM settings.

In my case I leave ESM in Stealth when I need to make phone calls so that turning on the relay makes things much quieter.

I HIGHLY recommend the remote relay approach. Quite easy and inexpensive.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1592266542




Remote location:

redman76

That was a lot of parsing I put my answers above in bold. I hope this helps make it more clear. I'd suggest just playing with the different modes and then pull the fuse to see the differences. It will generate some messages that the GM tech will see with his diagnostic tool, but no codes appear on the dash. I had pulled fuse #42 for a couple of days, but put in back in. I had a GM tech looking at my car with his diagnostic tools and he asked if I had been having issues with my exhaust. I grinned and mentioned pulling fuse #42 and he mentioned something about gotta love CorvetteForum

CADbrian

Yep, totally possible; but couldn't there also be the possibility that those who have pulled their fuse may be operating their cars without even knowing that there has been a:

• loss of communication with steering wheel module: measure position angle and rate of turn
• loss of communication differential control module: locks axles to differential, change the gear ratio applied to axles, amount of torque applied to the drive line
• loss of communication electric brake control module: controls brake system, activates ABS and traction control

If this presumption was true (one or all 3 issues listed above) wouldn't there be some kind of code thrown or indication to the driver that there are issues?

eboggs_jkvl

I have the relay system too. I coded the visor buttons to open/close the relay. Left button is loud, right button is quiet, middle button opens the garage door. I hate remotes!


Elmer

CADbrian

Thanks redman76 for taking the time to answer all those questions.

CADbrian

xp800, I was hoping you'd chime in on this thread. I've read so many of your posts in other threads on similar topics that I value your input as you seem to know a lot about electronics, which is a topic that I simply don't know anything about. I'm going to dig into that link you provided. Thanks.

CADbrian

OMG eboggs_jkvl, that is a great idea. I love it. Is there a thread somewhere illustrating (for dummies like me) how you did that. That sounds like the best solution if one didn't want a remote. Can't wait to hear from you.

eboggs_jkvl

Page 5-49 2014 Owner's manual:

To program up to three devices:
1. Hold the end of the hand-held
transmitter about 3 to 8 cm (1 to
3 in) away from the Universal
Remote system buttons with the
indicator light in view. The
hand-held transmitter was
supplied by the manufacturer of
the garage door opener receiver.
2. At the same time, press and
hold both the hand-held
transmitter button and one of the
three Universal Remote system
buttons to be used to operate
the garage door. Do not release
either button until the indicator
light changes from a slow to a
rapid flash. Then release both
buttons.
Some garage door openers may
require substitution of Step 2
with the procedure under in
“Radio Signals for Canada and
Some Gate Operators” later in
this section.

3. Press and hold the newly
programmed Universal Remote
system button for five seconds
while watching the indicator light
and garage door activation.
. If the indicator light stays on
continuously or the garage
door moves when the
button is pressed, then
programming is complete.
There is no need to
complete Steps 4-6.
. If the indicator light does
not come on or the garage
door does not move, a
second button press may
be required. For a second
time, press and hold the
newly programmed button
for five seconds. If the light
stays on or the garage door
moves, programming is
complete.
. If the indicator light blinks
rapidly for two seconds,
then changes to a solid light
and the garage door does
not move, continue with
programming Steps 4-6.
Learn or Smart Button
4. After completing Steps 1-3 ,
locate the Learn or Smart button
inside garage on the garage
door opener receiver. The name
and color of the button may vary
by manufacturer.
5. Press and release the Learn or
Smart button. Step 6 must be
completed within 30 seconds of
pressing this button.
6. Inside the vehicle the vehicle,
press and hold the newly
programmed Universal Remote
system button for two seconds
and then release it. If the garage
door does not move or the lamp
on the garage door opener
receiver does not flash, press
and hold the same button a
second time for two seconds,
then release it. Again, if the door
does not move or the garage
door lamp does not flash, press
and hold the same button a third
time for two seconds, then
release it.
The Universal Remote system
should now activate the
garage door.
Repeat the process for
programming the two remaining
buttons.

joemessman

I can positively say removing fuse 42 would not cause any the issues he is experiencing. Did he reinstall the fuse and those issues go away? He didn't say. I have had diagnostic reports on my car when in for service and there has never been anything detected and I have had the fuse removed since the car was brand new. 27 months of ownership now with almost 57,000 miles.

xp800

Thank you!

I don't pretend to be an expert, just try my best to share what I've learned to give something back to the CF community from which I've learned far more.

I was actually trying to track down the electrical schematic for the NPP system (which I know I've seen somewhere here). I do recall pretty clearly that the NPP fuse #41/42 (as well as the AFM fuse #32) share NOTHING with any other system (other than reporting diagnostics through the CAN).

Because of this (and as mentioned by redman), other than registering a "harmless" DTC requiring a scan tool to read, there would be no way I can imagine how the YouTuber's issues could be related to the NPP fuse removal.

And the HomeLink visor suggestion by eboggs is a great one...unless you have a 1LT (and haven't purchased the remote visor via service parts) or have more than 2 garage doors to open regularly. I fall into both categories.

eboggs_jkvl

Only need one button. It defaults loud, so if you code the close button, it'll shut it up until you turn off the car. Next start and it's running open again. Two buttons allows you to make it loud AND quiet. Just buy the driver's side visor. It plugs right in and you're up and running.

Elmer

Boiler_81

No way pulling the fuse impacted those other systems. He is either creating BS to get clicks or he did something else to cause the issues.

XP800s thread is the definitive thread on NPP and how it works (thanks to him for putting all the information in one place). I have referenced it several times on threads about NPP in this forum.

Everytime someone asks about NPP, invariably someone says putting it in track mode will leave the flaps open all the time. This is demonstratively untrue. They absolutely close under the conditions under which the Federal test is conducted. The fact that some many people think they are open all the time is a testament to how good of a job the programmers did on the system. For those who do believe they don't close, I suggest they pull the fuse and take a drive. The difference was immediately obvious to me.

I have spent 35 years working for an automotive supplier of electrical and electronics systems as an engineer and program manager. The electronics of today are much more robust than when I started. Modern electronic modules are resistant to voltage variations and surges. I would not be concerned about removing and reinstalling the fuse while the car is running. However, there is no reason to do it unless you want to hear the change made as the valves open and close.

eboggs_jkvl

My remote system is this one:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ontroller.html


Elmer

xp800

I need both buttons as I do toggle back and forth while driving (phone calls, long highway runs), and thus leave mine in Stealth.

I've considered getting the visor a number of times just for my garage doors, but at $220 +/- $20 it has always been too hard a pill to swallow. I just leave my garage remote in my center armrest...for $0.

For those interested in upfitting a 1LT (GM PN 84129237):

https://www.trunkmonkeyparts.com/oem...shade-84129237

I've seen people (more talented than me) buy the Homelink guts on eBay (~$20) and graft them into their own visors, if the visors have power that is.

redman76

My first thought was that maybe he pulled to wrong fuse.

Boiler_81

The rear differential controller fuse (10) is next to the NPP fuse.

Skidplate

This post from 2015 explains how to build and install a circuit to remotely operate the NPP valves including using Homelink instead of the remote fob:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ob-how-to.html

The circuit uses a relay to remotely remove and install the NPP fuse upon command. The NPP fuse circuit controller does not interact with other electronics and has caused no harm.

A nearly identical commercial version called Mild to Wild later came out that has the same function.

eboggs_jkvl

That's the one I linked to in post #33.

Elmer

Skidplate

Yep, missed that. Thanks.

CADbrian

Yes, thanks to you both: eboggs_jkvl and Skidplate. Perhaps this weekend I can pull fuse #42 and see how I like the sound. Still on the fence about whether or not I'll need the disabling switch.