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Yeah, and if I still had my '57 Chevy I'll bet they wouldn't update to ABS, either. It's just not fair.
Seriously, cars are continually updated and improved, but retrofitting to an earlier model year car often isn't possible. In a safety recall the manufacturer might expend the engineering and manufacturing dollars to make an update happen, but with something as minor as a single mode digital readout you're not likely to find any manufacturer making the change, which would be pure cost with no benefit to the bottom line. That's not to say that this change might not be possible if it's only a matter of software. But even most dealers would have no idea. You'd need an auto computer guru, and odds are that guy is employed by GM and busy working on about the 2023 models.
I vaguely remember some kind of electric braking system that JC Whitney sold in the '60s where you could lock up the front wheels only. It was controlled by a button that they showed mounted to your shifter. Never saw one of these in person though.
This "brakes AND accelerator" slammed to the floor technique seems like a little more than I'd be willing to put my car through. Must be tough on the rear brakes and maybe a little tough on the torque converter and drivetrain.
Thanks for the lesson.
Regarding "GP" -- thanks again for defining it. IWHNGWIMO. (I would have never guessed what it meant otherwise.)
You would not need to "power break" a C7Z06 to do an impressive burn out, you could do it longer of course but not required. Light breaking like the other guy pointed out (power breaking) is not going to hurt car much, just think about how much pressure is on the breaking system when you have to stop fast. Again I don't have a Z but I'm pretty sure no breaking is needed to get (or keep) the wheels spinning.
Last edited by Forcedvert; 02-23-2018 at 07:36 PM.
A friend of mine crashed his 2017 Zo6 last night. Luckily no one was hurt except his car and a mini van. I asked him what happened and he said it got away from him. This happened on a busy street that I happen to live on. From what he told me it sounds like he was leaving a stop light and got on it. He said it started fishtailing, I asked if the traction control was on. He said traction control turned off, he was trying to get use to it that way. It's a real shame to see that happen to such a nice car, only 8,000 miles. Damage was done mostly to the drivers front fender and front bumper. He also had some suspension damage, drivers front wheel was folded up underneath.
If you just drive the car normal and judge the conditions. It won't get away. 650 horse and 2 wheel drive can bite you unless you all ways use good judgement.
PTM wet works way better than weather mode. Lots of people don't get the difference.
I'd like to understand the difference to assess if I should drive in Weather vs PTM/wet for wet/damp street/highway conditions (don't intend to track my car; not yet at least)
- I have the steering boost set to 'Track' setting. I take it that I will lose this in PTM/wet. Are there noticeable differences in the eLSD performance?
- Is there a discernible stability/handling improvement of PTM/wet over Weather for street/highway driving?
A friend of mine crashed his 2017 Zo6 last night. Luckily no one was hurt except his car and a mini van. I asked him what happened and he said it got away from him. This happened on a busy street that I happen to live on. From what he told me it sounds like he was leaving a stop light and got on it. He said it started fishtailing, I asked if the traction control was on. He said traction control turned off, he was trying to get use to it that way. It's a real shame to see that happen to such a nice car, only 8,000 miles. Damage was done mostly to the drivers front fender and front bumper. He also had some suspension damage, drivers front wheel was folded up underneath.
When I read a thread like this, it reminds me how much has changed in my lifetime. I began SCCA racing in 1969 after getting my competition license from the Bodurant Racing School. The first car I drove in competition was a 1900 lb, 100 HP GT6. I raced in that car for two years, and then graduated to a 327ci, 350 HP Corvette.
The belief back then was to learn to race with cars with less HP and then over time to graduate to more powerful cars. Also, back then there were zero driving aids: no traction control, stability management, not even ABS. Fast forward to 1918. Although I'm an ole guy, I still attend DE events a few times a year, and it's not unusual for me to see an inexperienced driver of a 700 HP car, who has no idea of even basic things like the best racing line to take in a corner. I effortlessly pass these guys in cars with about half the HP, and when I talk to these guys after completing our laps, the first thing that these guys talk about is mods to increase their cars' HP.
I know that I'm being judgmental, but pushing powerful cars in neighborhood areas with the likelihood of small children being around, is being irresponsible to the highest degree. And I don't care if all the "save my ***" computer aids are engaged or not.
When I read a thread like this, it reminds me how much has changed in my lifetime. I began SCCA racing in 1969 after getting my competition license from the Bodurant Racing School. The first car I drove in competition was a 1900 lb, 100 HP GT6. I raced in that car for two years, and then graduated to a 327ci, 350 HP Corvette.
The belief back then was to learn to race with cars with less HP and then over time to graduate to more powerful cars. Also, back then there were zero driving aids: no traction control, stability management, not even ABS. Fast forward to 1918. Although I'm an ole guy, I still attend DE events a few times a year, and it's not unusual for me to see an inexperienced driver of a 700 HP car, who has no idea of even basic things like the best racing line to take in a corner. I effortlessly pass these guys in cars with about half the HP, and when I talk to these guys after completing our laps, the first thing that these guys talk about is mods to increase their cars' HP.
I know that I'm being judgmental, but pushing powerful cars in neighborhood areas with the likelihood of small children being around, is being irresponsible to the highest degree. And I don't care if all the "save my ***" computer aids are engaged or not.
Sorry for the rant.
No kidding!!!
The grandsport port is the first car I've driven with more than 300hp that I really enjoy driving on the track. Spec Miata and boxter have been my favorite.
The numerical readout on the track gauge is a plus for buying an 2018.
Yes, I know. I was responding to DJNICE, and the enhancement in the 18 was the entire point and reason for posting the picture. I had a '14, so I'm in as good a position as anyone to be aware of the many enhancements over 5 MYs. The cumulative list of upgrades from 14-18 is pretty impressive.
I vaguely remember some kind of electric braking system that JC Whitney sold in the '60s where you could lock up the front wheels only. It was controlled by a button that they showed mounted to your shifter. Never saw one of these in person though.
This "brakes AND accelerator" slammed to the floor technique seems like a little more than I'd be willing to put my car through. Must be tough on the rear brakes and maybe a little tough on the torque converter and drivetrain.
Thanks for the lesson.
Regarding "GP" -- thanks again for defining it. IWHNGWIMO. (I would have never guessed what it meant otherwise.)
It was/is called a brake line lock. It's an electric solenoid. You install it in the front brake line. You would step on the brakes, push the button on the shifter, then release the brake. The front brakes would remain locked but the rear brakes were not engaged. Great for burnouts. when you released the button, the front brakes released. I had one on my 68 Firebird Ram IV. You can still buy it. Won't put one on my C7 though.
I'd like to understand the difference to assess if I should drive in Weather vs PTM/wet for wet/damp street/highway conditions (don't intend to track my car; not yet at least)
- I have the steering boost set to 'Track' setting. I take it that I will lose this in PTM/wet. Are there noticeable differences in the eLSD performance?
- Is there a discernible stability/handling improvement of PTM/wet over Weather for street/highway driving?
The best thing is go to a large empty parking lot and try them out. The main advantage with PTM/wet is it will retard spark when it senses wheel spin rather than only applying brakes. To test this you need to put your foot on the floor and let the car do its thing. I notice in PTM intervention reacts quicker, but is less abrupt. When rolling into the throttle it will retard spark rather than waiting for the car to slide and then apply brakes. I am not sure if the track steering override stays when you go to PTM/wet.
I am not going to bash the guy. My last Corvette was a 2009 Z06. I turned TC off many times on an open stretch of road just for giggles and grins. I never left it off though for more than just the distance it took to amuse myself. Sometimes bad things happen to good people. We pay to play.
Now, if other cars were around I would say not so nice things.
Last edited by jschindler; 02-26-2018 at 01:48 PM.
When I read a thread like this, it reminds me how much has changed in my lifetime. I began SCCA racing in 1969 after getting my competition license from the Bodurant Racing School. The first car I drove in competition was a 1900 lb, 100 HP GT6. I raced in that car for two years, and then graduated to a 327ci, 350 HP Corvette.
The belief back then was to learn to race with cars with less HP and then over time to graduate to more powerful cars. Also, back then there were zero driving aids: no traction control, stability management, not even ABS. Fast forward to 1918. Although I'm an ole guy, I still attend DE events a few times a year, and it's not unusual for me to see an inexperienced driver of a 700 HP car, who has no idea of even basic things like the best racing line to take in a corner. I effortlessly pass these guys in cars with about half the HP, and when I talk to these guys after completing our laps, the first thing that these guys talk about is mods to increase their cars' HP.
I know that I'm being judgmental, but pushing powerful cars in neighborhood areas with the likelihood of small children being around, is being irresponsible to the highest degree. And I don't care if all the "save my ***" computer aids are engaged or not.
Sorry for the rant.
Well said. I road raced motorcycles many years ago. I tell people all the time to work their way up in power. On the street I stair stepped up starting with a 175, 350, 750, 1100......
I did start road racing on a 750 when it was a fast bike, but by then I was well used to the power. And a fast 750 back then was no faster than a Goldwing today
The best thing is go to a large empty parking lot and try them out. The main advantage with PTM/wet is it will retard spark when it senses wheel spin rather than only applying brakes. To test this you need to put your foot on the floor and let the car do its thing. I notice in PTM intervention reacts quicker, but is less abrupt. When rolling into the throttle it will retard spark rather than waiting for the car to slide and then apply brakes. I am not sure if the track steering override stays when you go to PTM/wet.
Yep, thank you. I plan to try the settings in a relatively safe env.
Well said. I road raced motorcycles many years ago. I tell people all the time to work their way up in power. On the street I stair stepped up starting with a 175, 350, 750, 1100......
I did start road racing on a 750 when it was a fast bike, but by then I was well used to the power. And a fast 750 back then was no faster than a Goldwing today
I just took my buddy to the track in his super bad *** new Lamborghini. Last session he got in a 718 and decided to buy a 718.
02-23-2018, 07:05 PM
This is why we can't have nice things . . . .
Yep, thank you. I plan to try the settings in a relatively safe env.
