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Damn this thread has me concerned about replacing my OEM battery this summer on its 3 year anniversary. I have the netwelding PDF and will use it as a reference. I bought a battery lifting tool. Wish me luck.
the most difficult part of changing the OEM Delco battery is trying to lift it out of it's cubby hole, it's so cramped in there I couldn't get my lifting tool in there. Not only does the stiff carpet not have an indentation in which to fold it but the factory battery doesn't have a handle, it's the biggest schitshow this side of GM's brilliant idea to install side post batteries in their vehicles.
First I want to thank all those members that responded so quickly and thoroughly to my issue...you guys are always the best...been here almost 20 years and our friendship is the best.
Ok, I was measuring voltage and found lack of 12 volts from the red cable shown in the picture...I believe this is what was referred to as 'downstream'. I got maybe 1-2 volts...sort of a scatter effect with my meter. This pointed me to the connection. I realized I was always looking down at the captivated nut and was not aware of the more than 1/2" of thread below the nut. I had torqued it down originally to a point where it gave me high resistance, so of course, I thought it was properly seated. Very easy to fall for this the first time you replace a battery.
Blind View of cable attachment
In the next picture you can see nearly a half inch of additional thread that is needed for complete seating.....I realigned the cable too.
Believe me, this is not a view that anyone could accomplish...the camera is held against the side of the inner fender cover. You would have to have your head contorted in a ridiculous position to see the side of the threaded stud.
Car fired right up afterwards...what a relief...I owe all of you a 16 oz craft brew one of these days...your choice!
Last edited by $$$frumnuttin'; 03-18-2018 at 02:15 PM.
This may be a bit off topic but what is the technique you folks are using to get the rear wheel cover off in order to get at the battery. In anticipation of having to do that job one day, I gave it a try and got nowhere. Are you pushing in and then prying out or what?
Glad you got it man Like in my post I did the same thing so it had to be this. This has to be one of the stupid things GM has done for the batt hook up. That dam cable is just crazy to get it set correct.Robert
Glad you got it man Like in my post I did the same thing so it had to be this. This has to be one of the stupid things GM has done for the batt hook up. That dam cable is just crazy to get it set correct.Robert
your idea of having the dealer do it is a good one....other than that, if I had to do it all over again I would remove the rear fascia and the right rear fender.....LMAO!
This may be a bit off topic but what is the technique you folks are using to get the rear wheel cover off in order to get at the battery. In anticipation of having to do that job one day, I gave it a try and got nowhere. Are you pushing in and then prying out or what?
In post #13 above, see JerryU's outstanding writeup...
the most difficult part of changing the OEM Delco battery is trying to lift it out of it's cubby hole, it's so cramped in there I couldn't get my lifting tool in there.
Good the OP Figured it out.
1 pair of large vice grips laid down sideways clamped tight to one post should do the trick
or 2 smaller vice grips one on each post then make a loop with short rope tied to each vice grip
or small rope wrapped on each post then clamp a vice grip to the post pinching rope in jaw, same on other post make loop adjust then clamp 2nd. post
This may be a bit off topic but what is the technique you folks are using to get the rear wheel cover off in order to get at the battery. In anticipation of having to do that job one day, I gave it a try and got nowhere. Are you pushing in and then prying out or what?
Clip is 3 inches from floor. Should unclip the rear lower one with your fingers. It is the only one that needs to be unclipped. If too tight could use a plastic pry tool or since you are leveraging against the carpet, slip in a screw driver just below. Hold it out with your left hand while you pull the carpet slowly with the right. Goes back with the side of your closed hand.
A while back I had to jump my wife's car with the Vette. I pulled out the carpet without ripping it and attached the jumper wires to the battery. Reversed the process when I was done and you would never know I did anything back there.
Clip is 3 inches from floor. Should unclip the rear lower one with your fingers. It is the only one that needs to be unclipped. If too tight could use a plastic pry tool or since you are leveraging against the carpet, slip in a screw driver just below. Hold it out with your left hand while you pull the carpet slowly with the right. Goes back with the side of your closed hand.
Here is the location of all the clips...
White is along the bottom, left is to the rear of the car.
Hate to say it, but 9 times out of 10, when just changing the battery and there is a problem, it is a bad or loose connection.. I even make a point to clean all the connections, incluidng the the battery posts, while I have everything off.
Been away for a bit, and this is the first time I've looked at this thread......
$$$frumnuttin': glad you got this fixed. You hung in there and we all learned from this.
To those who responded: this is CF at it's finest. Most of us have not met one another, but there is a great core of enthusiasts here that are willing to help and take the time to share.
First I want to thank all those members that responded so quickly and thoroughly to my issue...you guys are always the best...been here almost 20 years and our friendship is the best.
Ok, I was measuring voltage and found lack of 12 volts from the red cable shown in the picture...I believe this is what was referred to as 'downstream'. I got maybe 1-2 volts...sort of a scatter effect with my meter. This pointed me to the connection. I realized I was always looking down at the captivated nut and was not aware of the more than 1/2" of thread below the nut. I had torqued it down originally to a point where it gave me high resistance, so of course, I thought it was properly seated. Very easy to fall for this the first time you replace a battery.
Blind View of cable attachment
In the next picture you can see nearly a half inch of additional thread that is needed for complete seating.....I realigned the cable too.
Believe me, this is not a view that anyone could accomplish...the camera is held against the side of the inner fender cover. You would have to have your head contorted in a ridiculous position to see the side of the threaded stud.
Car fired right up afterwards...what a relief...I owe all of you a 16 oz craft brew one of these days...your choice!
so what you are saying is your entire issue was caused by a loose connection with the pos battery cable? the reason i ask is because i’m about to change the battery in my 2014. also is the oem battery a delco 48ps? i ask because i’ve owned 6 other corvettes and no matter what third party batteries i’ve tried, the stock delcos always last the longest.
03-18-2018, 01:42 AM
Well, that was easy. 
