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Ok to jack from side with puck to work on one corner?
Done this with all my C5s for many years no issues. Doing it on the C7 I can see see the door gaps move slightly. To jack from the front or rear cros-member required me to have my garage door open and get the car on boards. I can't imagine this isn't OK, but wanted to check as it's my first aluminum chassis Vette.
I've been doing it forever so no issues. I'd make sure the puck has an eye bolt or something to that effect to prevent an accident. I have never had a problem but from recent jack accident posts why take a chance?
Thanks all the chassis flex was disconcerting given the C7 chassis is supposed to be so much stiffer than any C5. Maybe the wider gaps on C5s made the flex less noticeable.
And yes I have proper pucks that secure to the frame slots.
Thanks all the chassis flex was disconcerting given the C7 chassis is supposed to be so much stiffer than any C5. Maybe the wider gaps on C5s made the flex less noticeable.
And yes I have proper pucks that secure to the frame slots.
How exactly does that help me work on my LF brakes?
I suggested race ramps because they are so versatile for other tasks such as oil changes where wheels do not need to come off. However the reason I thought they might be good for your current task is you said you were concerned that you saw changing panel gaps from jacking up one wheel at a time. Another person suggested you use two jacks. If you had race ramps, you could substitute them for the second jack by driving the front wheels up and then jacking the rear and then backing the car up to do the front wheels. Seems like there would be less torsional stress and less risk of a jack failure causing a catastrophe.
I have used my race ramps in this way where I raise the front or back of the vehicle and then use my low profile floor jack to raise the other end of the car. For example, I did this recently in an oil change where I raised the front using race ramps and then to drain that last 1/2 quart of oil trapped in the pan due to the front being higher, I raised the rear of the car using a floor jack. That last 1/2 quart came right out and it was very easy on the car and me. I did make a support out of some wood for the center cross member so I could use one jack.
Thanks all the chassis flex was disconcerting given the C7 chassis is supposed to be so much stiffer than any C5. Maybe the wider gaps on C5s made the flex less noticeable.
And yes I have proper pucks that secure to the frame slots.
The C7 aluminum chassis is reportedly 25% stiffer than the C6, which was stiffer than the C5! Jack away!
GM says it's 25% stiffer than the steel C6! Aluminum can be stiffer by design and member section size!
I used to jack up side by side. I have my car up a lot and noticed my trunk lid started sticking and would not pop up. So I started jacking up from the rear. Works much better.
I suggested race ramps because they are so versatile for other tasks such as oil changes where wheels do not need to come off.
To each their own but I found with a standard shift, one race ramps would often move when driving up on them! I like to do all my work when I want and not asking anyone to watch!
This works fine for me for oil changes etc.
Made stanchions for ~$10 from a 2X6 and 3/4 inch plywood. Can be done with one jack if needed, I use two.
I jack the car up by placing the jack between the jack points where the cross bar hits the frame rail. I use a hockey puck. When the car is up I use jackstands at the jacking points with hockey pucks. I've jacked up my C4, C5, C6 and C7 this way and no car has bent yet.
03-22-2018, 01:51 AM
Ok to jack from side with puck to work on one corner?
