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LOL! Those surveys are very important to service personnel, as their bonuses are at least partially based on them.
I purchased my last 3 Vettes's Out of State and had them serviced by the local large Chevy dealer in town. The service department could care less if their dealership salesman made a commission on my sale!
On my visit less than a month after I got the Grand Sport I had great treatment and service. All the service scheduler was concerned about when he handed me the keys having signed the no charge service order was that I was pleased (which I was) and requested a good rating on the survey call I would receive! I gave them a 10 score (which was deserved) and as requested, posted a comment to that affect on their website!
DETAILS OF VISIT:
When I called for an appointment soon after I got my Grand Sport to have the wheels aligned the service scheduler was very polite and I had one in two days. He listened attentively as I discussed the sheet I gave him with the wide GM allowable range of settings and what I wanted. He gave the sheet to the Tech (I saw him looking at it when the car was being driven on the alignment rack as I watched from outside the service bay.) I chatted with the Tech and asked if I could answer any questions. When I mentioned how careful I am with the car and there would be a tip he even invited me into the service bay to watch the Hunter screen as he made the adjustments. I said hope being in here doesn't get you in trouble and he said -no worry! He took his time to get the camber's and toe where I requested. In fact there was only one toe out of the very broad GM spec, which they could have adjusted and given me the car back with the -1.6 degrees of rear camber as it came from the factory!
It's a similar feeling when I hire an electrician to do a particular job, he comes out, then leaves to get parts - on the clock, mind you. I could never understand that... I'm hiring an electrician, not a personal shopper!
I now tell all contractors that I don't pay hourly for you to shop for parts you knew you were supposed to bring, so I think it's fair to hold Chevy to the same standard.
I’ll explain it for you, your average electrician doesn’t stock every single size breaker made. And there are 4 major companies making electrical equipment and breakers are not interchangeable. Plus there are 2 or 3 companies that are out of business that still have a lot of equipment left in service and that is just breakers with out taking in consideration different company disconnects and if they are inside or outside rated. In short your picking the electrical trade just shows how little you know about electrical work.
For reference 10 qt will overfill a dry sump system. Have them install 9 qt and give you the tenth quart so you can adjust the level. The consensus seems to be setting level in the middle of the dipstick add / full range.
Yes, it will since the capacity is 9.8 quarts. However, the extra .2 quarts won't hurt anything. The GM recommended track fill is 10.3 quarts which is a half quart over. .2 quart isn't anything that anybody needs to get their undies in a twist over.
Yes, it will since the capacity is 9.8 quarts. However, the extra .2 quarts won't hurt anything. The GM recommended track fill is 10.3 quarts which is a half quart over. .2 quart isn't anything that anybody needs to get their undies in a twist over.
Bill
Good God don't tell people that! Everyone knows that extra two tenths shortens the motor life by at least 50%. People are still trying to get over how a dealer might run short on limited use oil and the service writer doesn't know how much it holds!
Good God don't tell people that! Everyone knows that extra two tenths shortens the motor life by at least 50%. People are still trying to get over how a dealer might run short on limited use oil and the service writer doesn't know how much it holds!
I don't know for sure if 1/2 quart excess is too much for street driving by GM engineers think so! Lots of forum posts about excess oil in dry sumps causing some to drip from the air filter! Bill is right for Tracking BUT the Owner's Manual clearly says lower the level after! Below are quotes from the Owner's Manual. Below is also a pic/text is a possibility of why GM engineers say to drain it after Tracking to the "Proper Level."
From Owner's Manual: "After the competitive driving, remove excess oil so that the level on the dipstick is not above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range."
CAUTION BOX IN SEVERAL AREAS IN OWNER'S MANUAL
"Do not add too much oil. Oil levels above or below the acceptable operating range shown on the dipstick are harmful to the engine. If you find that you have an oil level above the operating range, i.e., the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged. You should drain out the excess oil or limit driving of the vehicle and seek a service professional to remove the excess amount of oil."
One possibility of why it's needed if Tracking but not normal driving is the small oil/air scavenge pump in the Dry Sump. This is not a 4/5 stage large scavenge pump used on racing engines! The reason for adding extra oil when Tracking is at high rpm there is lots of oil spaying from rod and main bearings. That small scavenge pump may not be able to keep the dry sump tank at the proper level so adding more compensates for that in the engine or pan. To assure there is enough oil GM says add a 1/2 quart extra. That is a half quart above the MAX dip stick mark, NOT from some estimated volume in a table (also says that in the 4 volume Service Manual.) I can only speculate as to why that works even when you're pulling into the pits etc and the rpm is lower. That small pump cannot pull oil into the tank very fast so it would take some time to have excess in the tank. Even if some extra were to get into the air intake through the hose that burps air, as soon as you are at WOT again it would be sucked into the intake and not run down to the filter. This is an interesting issue and I don't know the answer BUT the GM engineers did not put that info into the Owner's Manual for fun!
For comparison, this is a racing dry sump system. Much larger, multistage pumps and large dry sump tank. Note, it has an outlet filter for the air that must "burp" from the system. If you're going to get all the oil out of the pan you also have to pull in a lot of air. In a street driven car can't just let that air go into the atmosphere as it contains some oil mist and/or vapor. Not allowed by EPA (rightly.) Put it back into the intake an combust it like PCV "stuff!"
Your car do as you wish! I tend to follow the Owner's and Service Manual.
I’ll explain it for you, your average electrician doesn’t stock every single size breaker made.
Really? As fifth generation hardware store, I can't wait to learn more about basic electrical outlets.
I still assert that an electrician coming to install an outlet should bring that outlet with him. If that's way outside the scope of what you think an electrician should do, then we just won't work together I guess!
Why would I pay a guy to show up at my house then leave to buy a basic 15amp outlet? Bring it with you. If I need something exotic or weird, that's another story.
Not everyone has the desire, means or ability to change their own oil.
An even this old "gearhead" may get to old (lets' hope as the alternative is worse!) I would definitely use the fill with 9 quarts and give me the 10th as many do. That assumes I have a dry sump, which I am sure a version of the C8 will - "if I make it!"
I change oil about 8-12 times a year across my cars, my wife's cars, and my kids. I do have a lift so that's a bit of a luxury.
I take everything modern in to the dealership for oil changes except the Corvette (because I care) and my son's trucks (becasue I'm a mean Dad who makes you change your own oil on principle).
I wish one were able to drive just any vehicle to the local oil change pit and go through and they'd be masters and know all the different cars and just do it right and reset the service interval and look up the schedule for you. But they don't usually work that way!
Really? As fifth generation hardware store, I can't wait to learn more about basic electrical outlets.
With your electrician comment but as you say there are many colors styles etc. Applaud you for being a 5th generation hardware store!
C7 Related Shaggy Dog Story You Might Enjoy:
This search is about screws I needed for my recent C7 rear diffuser install. Needed six 4.2 mm X ~50 mm "body bolts" to replace the 25 mm OEM bolts that were too short. Went to my local hardware store that has saved me many times. They have been in existence since 1923. They had a small Torx head 4.2 mm X 40 mm screw but I was replacing a hex head with a captive washer.
Went to the NAPA store in town as I knew AutoZone or Advanced Auto would not have that screw. NAPA did not either. So I went to the new O'Reilly store that just opened. Wondered how they could open a new store with all the competition, including the Net. Found out as I waited at the counter! A mechanic called for a part and one of the O'Reilly drivers was told by the counter man to bring it right over! I'm sure the Chevy dealer like other service shops follows today's "low/no inventory" business rule!
JIT and low inventory is the driving force for business! O'Reilly did not have the needed bolt and the fellow said try Lowes. Since it was 1/4 mile away and I needed something else anyway, I tried. But as expected it was not there and all of their bolts/screws, as usually, were mixed in the draws! Before I left for town had checked the Net and no luck!
Went back to my old reliable hardware store, bought the Torx small head bolts (really screws but with the same fine pitch) and small fender washers, which although they had too small a hole to fit the screw, a drill fixed that! Worked fine!
We just lost our last local hardware, it's a Trader Joe's now. They had a spectacular fastener section that I was really going to miss, except a friend bought it for his own shop when the store closed! So now I just get to be jealous.
The whole notion of JIT breaks down against Amazon Prime. If your store doesn't have it NOW, I'm not going to order it from you and come back and get it, I'm going to order it from Amazon and have it in 48 hours.
Stores will have to keep stuff in stock if they want to compete with online. And they'll have to compete based on expert knowledge and advise and selection, none of which most offer these days...
My Dad sold out in the 80s when the "big box" stores like Lowes and Home Depot started to proliferate because he knew people would wind up going there for their major purchases and just visiting the local store for small things like fasteners (I'm clearly guilty too). As he put it to me, doesn't matter how busy you are, "you can't count screws fast enough to make a living".
My Dad sold out in the 80s when the "big box" stores like Lowes and Home Depot started to proliferate because he knew people would wind up going there for their major purchases and just visiting the local store for small things like fasteners (I'm clearly guilty too). As he put it to me, doesn't matter how busy you are, "you can't count screws fast enough to make a living".
I know one of the manager's at the local hardware store who was in charge of their industrial business, where they delivered to business. When Home Deport came to town, I asked if they were concerned. He said no we're more concerned about Tractor Supply as they have some cloths! The hardware store now has ~1/3 devoted to hunting and fishing and related cloths etc!
I often go there for screws. brass fittings etc and buy something else!
Just FYI on hardware stores, in our area there is one place you can always find exotic parts. For example, if you need a tool that can work on a hex nut that requires the tool to be hollowed out instead of just cast (kind of an opposite hex), this is the place to get it. Of course, it will cost you $20 instead of $2, but hey! You had to exotic. They have locations all over the Pacific Northwest. They're called: Tacoma Screw. For some reason those of us blessed with growing up in Tacoma find this awfully funny.
One of the biggest American flags ever flies over Interstate-5:
I don't know for sure if 1/2 quart excess is too much for street driving by GM engineers think so!
I don't know either, but I do know that running 9½ qts. isn't too little for street use, so that's what I've settled on. That reads halfway up the hash marks on my car.
I don't know for sure if 1/2 quart excess is too much for street driving by GM engineers think so! Lots of forum posts about excess oil in dry sumps causing some to drip from the air filter! Bill is right for Tracking BUT the Owner's Manual clearly says lower the level after! Below are quotes from the Owner's Manual. Below is also a pic/text is a possibility of why GM engineers say to drain it after Tracking to the "Proper Level."
From Owner's Manual: "After the competitive driving, remove excess oil so that the level on the dipstick is not above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range."
CAUTION BOX IN SEVERAL AREAS IN OWNER'S MANUAL
"Do not add too much oil. Oil levels above or below the acceptable operating range shown on the dipstick are harmful to the engine. If you find that you have an oil level above the operating range, i.e., the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged. You should drain out the excess oil or limit driving of the vehicle and seek a service professional to remove the excess amount of oil."
One possibility of why it's needed if Tracking but not normal driving is the small oil/air scavenge pump in the Dry Sump. This is not a 4/5 stage large scavenge pump used on racing engines! The reason for adding extra oil when Tracking is at high rpm there is lots of oil spaying from rod and main bearings. That small scavenge pump may not be able to keep the dry sump tank at the proper level so adding more compensates for that in the engine or pan. To assure there is enough oil GM says add a 1/2 quart extra. That is a half quart above the MAX dip stick mark, NOT from some estimated volume in a table (also says that in the 4 volume Service Manual.) I can only speculate as to why that works even when you're pulling into the pits etc and the rpm is lower. That small pump cannot pull oil into the tank very fast so it would take some time to have excess in the tank. Even if some extra were to get into the air intake through the hose that burps air, as soon as you are at WOT again it would be sucked into the intake and not run down to the filter. This is an interesting issue and I don't know the answer BUT the GM engineers did not put that info into the Owner's Manual for fun!
For comparison, this is a racing dry sump system. Much larger, multistage pumps and large dry sump tank. Note, it has an outlet filter for the air that must "burp" from the system. If you're going to get all the oil out of the pan you also have to pull in a lot of air. In a street driven car can't just let that air go into the atmosphere as it contains some oil mist and/or vapor. Not allowed by EPA (rightly.) Put it back into the intake an combust it like PCV "stuff!"
Your car do as you wish! I tend to follow the Owner's and Service Manual.
I guess I'm left wondering how track use can use 10.3 quarts without damage but normal use with the same amount is harmful?
Really? As fifth generation hardware store, I can't wait to learn more about basic electrical outlets.
I still assert that an electrician coming to install an outlet should bring that outlet with him. If that's way outside the scope of what you think an electrician should do, then we just won't work together I guess!
Why would I pay a guy to show up at my house then leave to buy a basic 15amp outlet? Bring it with you. If I need something exotic or weird, that's another story.
The tech can text you asking for a picture and/or description of the task so they show up prepared.
Not sure if this was mentioned already but i am more worried about the technician leaving 1/2 quart or more of oil in the pan since it can take a while to fully drain and then putting in 10 quarts. This could push it beyond even the track recommendation. This is why i will be asking if they can fill, with 9 and give me the 10th
05-19-2018, 07:10 AM
I purchased my last 3 Vettes's Out of State and had them serviced by the local large Chevy dealer in town. The service department could care less if their dealership salesman made a commission on my sale! 
