Corvette C7 Z06 or Z51 - Oil Change Intervals for low drive miles
#21
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: NE South Carolina
Posts: 29,449
Received 9,606 Likes
on
6,619 Posts
When I had my second "free" oil change done, the service writer said that all 2017 Corvettes get THREE oil & filter changes, even the wet-sump ones like mine. He said the computer system apparently does not know which cars are which (I thought the VIN would differentiate them somehow), so a glitch by GM gave me three instead of just two (and my car doesn't require the 500-mile change the way it does for the dry-sump Corvettes).
FWIW, I was told that I cannot rotate the tires on my Stingray - even though a service is supposed to include that. As is the case with every C7, the tires & wheels on the rear are larger than those on the front. I suppose getting 20 to 25k miles out of a set of the OEM tires is doing pretty well. Better save up a few bucks, eh? I figure that with the low miles, I can get at least four years out of my first set if I continue to drive it decently.
The owner's manual still says 3 for dry sumps and 2 for wet sumps (in a 2 year period.)
That first 500 mile one for dry sumps is really not for maintenance-it's because GM has an issue with some cars and the silicone from curing engine seals might cause oil foam "in the first oil fill" that will go to the air intake from the dry sump tank and may drip from the air cleaner. Wet sump have no tank and no such line! Good Luck if you get it.
The owner's manual clearly says to rotate tires every 7500 miles. They just swap from right to left!Tire Rotation
Page 276 of 2017 Owner's Manual:
The tires should be rotated every 12 000 km/7,500 mi. See Maintenance Schedule 0 307.
Last edited by JerryU; 06-18-2018 at 05:03 PM.
#22
Drifting
Tire Rotation & Oil Change
The service writer said that the computer showed that I still had 1 free oil change. I asked him if he was sure about it and he showed it to me on his printout. He said he noticed the same thing with a few other people who had 2017 wet-sump Corvettes.
As for the tire rotation, how would you rotate them from left to right? Aren't these tires designed to only roll in one direction? If you swap them from left to right, wouldn't they essentially be turning backwards? Just wondering.
As for the tire rotation, how would you rotate them from left to right? Aren't these tires designed to only roll in one direction? If you swap them from left to right, wouldn't they essentially be turning backwards? Just wondering.
Last edited by JK 23112; 06-19-2018 at 06:59 AM.
#24
Safety Car
The service writer said that the computer showed that I still had 1 free oil change. I asked him if he was sure about it and he showed it to me on his printout. He said he noticed the same thing with a few other people who had 2017 wet-sump Corvettes.
As for the tire rotation, how would you rotate them from left to right? Aren't these tires designed to only roll in one direction? If you swap them from left to right, wouldn't they essentially be turning backwards? Just wondering.
As for the tire rotation, how would you rotate them from left to right? Aren't these tires designed to only roll in one direction? If you swap them from left to right, wouldn't they essentially be turning backwards? Just wondering.
#25
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: NE South Carolina
Posts: 29,449
Received 9,606 Likes
on
6,619 Posts
#26
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: NE South Carolina
Posts: 29,449
Received 9,606 Likes
on
6,619 Posts
There are directional tires that must rotate in one direction and have a direction arrow. Since with different size tires we can't rotate front to back you would have to dismount and remount to rotate. The C7 Michelin tires are NOT directional.
There are some asymmetrical directional tires that say right side and left side. They can only be rotated front to back and with different size tires could not be rotated on a C7.
Last edited by JerryU; 06-18-2018 at 07:50 PM.
#28
Drifting
Gets a bit confusing but there are asymmetrical like the C7 with wider inner and outer tread widths and constriction differences. They have a word OUTSIDE in the printing. Just have to be sure the outside has that word when getting a flat fixed etc. So just swap side to side.
There are directional tires that must rotate in one direction and have a direction arrow. Since with different size tires we can't rotate front to back you would have to dismount and remount to rotate. The C7 Michelin tires are NOT directional.
There are some asymmetrical directional tires that say right side and left side. They can only be rotated front to back and with different size tires could not be rotated on a C7.
There are directional tires that must rotate in one direction and have a direction arrow. Since with different size tires we can't rotate front to back you would have to dismount and remount to rotate. The C7 Michelin tires are NOT directional.
There are some asymmetrical directional tires that say right side and left side. They can only be rotated front to back and with different size tires could not be rotated on a C7.
So the OEM tires (Michelin run-flats) on the 2017 Corvette CAN merely be swapped from side to side without dismounting & mounting and end up turning 'backwards' from where they were before?
Is that not somehow harmful? I never really thought about that before, as I always assumed that high-performance tires were the 'directional' type. I used to have a Mustang GT and the tires could be rotated front-to-rear, but never side to side. They had little arrows on the sidewall that pointed to the direction of forward rotation. Of course, my Mustangs all had the same size tires & wheels all around; unlike the Corvette.
Jeez! You can learn a lot around this place.
#29
Race Director
Change it once a year while under warranty and if the miles are low enough and it bothers you to be draining good oil, catch that oil in a clean container and use it in another vehicle. I know a few guys that do this.
#31
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: NE South Carolina
Posts: 29,449
Received 9,606 Likes
on
6,619 Posts
So the OEM tires (Michelin run-flats) on the 2017 Corvette CAN merely be swapped from side to side without dismounting & mounting and end up turning 'backwards' from where they were before?
Is that not somehow harmful? I never really thought about that before, as I always assumed that high-performance tires were the 'directional' type. I used to have a Mustang GT and the tires could be rotated front-to-rear, but never side to side. They had little arrows on the sidewall that pointed to the direction of forward rotation. Of course, my Mustangs all had the same size tires & wheels all around; unlike the Corvette.
Jeez! You can learn a lot around this place.
MY Street Rod has directional aaymetical tires up front. Since the rears have a Section Width of 16 1/2 inches (420 compared to my GS 335) they can not be rotated side to side.
When radials 1st came out (yep I’m that old to remember) there was an issue about the radial steel belts not liking being reversed. That went away years ago. There are a number of directional tires but the C7 OEM are not!
Last edited by JerryU; 06-19-2018 at 01:00 PM.
#32
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Aug 1999
Location: Should this thoughtful, valuable contribution meet with no acknowledgement or 'thanks' this post----
Posts: 16,382
Received 399 Likes
on
257 Posts
sooooo familiar! 33 years as a Materials Engineer...started in the Chem Lab, promoted a few times in Product Development servicing the nimrod clueless engineers who attempted to design and release parts that fit together properly and last the life of the vehicle. Funny story, I once had a project that required 240 hrs of salt spray testing. (10 days in the chamber). That was too long to wait for results by the engineer who submitted the work....he actually said this, "can't you put 2 men on it?"
#33
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Member Since: Sep 2016
Location: Northville Michigan
Posts: 3,074
Received 1,195 Likes
on
663 Posts
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
Not being funny but the original post explains why the question and from the vast knowledge and responses from members their is a variety of answers and responses.
Everything in a manual doesn't always make sense but a manufacturer have to say something and generally on some items its on the conservative and/or cya level.
Even when you look at the 'recommended" maintenance schedule on most cars, in my opinion some of it is to merely create re-occurring revenue vs the car will fall apart if you don't follow to the letter. Is it your choice to follow or not follow and/or deal with any consequences thereafter absolutely.
I referenced my 2002 Lexus SC430 and at 16-yrs old the car runs and rides better than any car I have ever owned without following the schedule to the letter.
I can say the same thing about my Porsche Cayenne as well. My private certified Porsche Technician who was the head of one of the largest Porsche Dealers Mechanic/Technician and have the top Porsche Certifications in my area but opened his own shop says that much of what they recommend and charge you for will not harm or have the car fall apart and pays for the brick and mortar and generate revenue streams. He tells me exactly what is needed and non-negotiable and I follow his lead as the expert and not the manual and the car runs like a champ and thousands of unnecessary spent money remains in my pocket!
Everything in a manual doesn't always make sense but a manufacturer have to say something and generally on some items its on the conservative and/or cya level.
Even when you look at the 'recommended" maintenance schedule on most cars, in my opinion some of it is to merely create re-occurring revenue vs the car will fall apart if you don't follow to the letter. Is it your choice to follow or not follow and/or deal with any consequences thereafter absolutely.
I referenced my 2002 Lexus SC430 and at 16-yrs old the car runs and rides better than any car I have ever owned without following the schedule to the letter.
I can say the same thing about my Porsche Cayenne as well. My private certified Porsche Technician who was the head of one of the largest Porsche Dealers Mechanic/Technician and have the top Porsche Certifications in my area but opened his own shop says that much of what they recommend and charge you for will not harm or have the car fall apart and pays for the brick and mortar and generate revenue streams. He tells me exactly what is needed and non-negotiable and I follow his lead as the expert and not the manual and the car runs like a champ and thousands of unnecessary spent money remains in my pocket!
The following users liked this post:
$$$frumnuttin' (06-20-2018)
#34
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: NE South Carolina
Posts: 29,449
Received 9,606 Likes
on
6,619 Posts
When corrosion testing packaged welding wire we needed a facility to test 500 pound drums and evaluate corrosion of stacked boxed spools. We took a small unused bathroom, added a wall air conditioner and electric heater. We had the commode removed and put in a floor drain and trap. We had a drum with the commode float keeping a fixed water level with a pump and spray activated to maintain a specific humidity level!
We used a PC to activate heat, cool and humidity! We worked with mother nature and cooled at night and heated in the day! We had a 24 hour cycle and learned a lot about what packaging worked and didn't with that inexpensive system!
#35
Melting Slicks
Heck I have a boat, about 20 hours a year use. It says change the oil every year, and that's what I do. 20 would be way less use than 2000 miles.
These things are to expensive not to take care of.
My 2 cents.
The following users liked this post:
USCG (06-03-2022)
#36
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: NE South Carolina
Posts: 29,449
Received 9,606 Likes
on
6,619 Posts
Everything in a manual doesn't always make sense but a manufacturer have to say something and generally on some items its on the conservative and/or cya level.
Even when you look at the 'recommended" maintenance schedule on most cars, in my opinion some of it is to merely create re-occurring revenue vs the car will fall apart if you don't follow to the letter. Is it your choice to follow or not follow and/or deal with any consequences thereafter absolutely.
I can say the same thing about my Porsche Cayenne as well. My private certified Porsche Technician who was the head of one of the largest Porsche Dealers Mechanic/Technician and have the top Porsche Certifications in my area but opened his own shop says that much of what they recommend and charge you for will not harm or have the car fall apart and pays for the brick and mortar and generate revenue streams. He tells me exactly what is needed and non-negotiable and I follow his lead as the expert and not the manual and the car runs like a champ and thousands of unnecessary spent money remains in my pocket!
That fits oil changes! Been changing my own oil for ~60 years in my cars. Used to be "required at shorter intervals than todays "better formulated oils." However I have been using Mobil 1 since 1974!
All 5 of my Vettes sine the '88 and other cars and trucks have said change once a year as a minimum. As I mentioned in a prior post they also said change more frequently in sever service and my '93 Vette Owner's Manual defined that for the "few miles/year use" example you describe:
"If most drives are under 4 miles change at 3000 miles or 3 MONTHS WHICHEVER OCCURS FORST!"
It appears many folks don't understand the reason and therefore don't understand why that is considered "severe service." The worse thing for oil and the engine is a cold start. The extra clearance from pistons to cylinder wall and the rich fuel/air mixture required for starting and idling until the engine is warm causes combustion products to go past the rings into the crackcase. A main combustion product is water. It forms with the other combustion products that pass the rings, especially on cold starts and forms acids! Those acids corrode the metals in your engine! Oil does not have to "look bad" for those acids to be corroding your engine parts while it's just sitting there!
Porsche Cayenne:
The comment about your Cayenne struck a cord. The issue I had with our Porsche Cayenne service was annoying and I was happy when we traded it for a BMW SUV! It's not that the Porsche recommended "inspection" items and changes that IMO were boiler plate, nice to do- it was the cost!
Folks talk about how their great service. Agree it is good but the price is ridiculous. Could not reset the oil change monitor without connecting to the Porsche maintenance computer so $225 for an oil change and the other "inspection" stuff was very high. That the 2nd year had other extra's so another $150 on top of that $250. At year 4 Porsche service said you'll need brakes and the cost estimate was $2600! Because it was a bit more complicated that I wanted to tackle and I did not have a service manual, I had a friend with a shop (who built the racing trans in my street rod) do the 4 wheel job for $500. After a slight vibration when braking he replaced the front rotors with aftermarket for $125.
We liked the car but it needed a battery that required removing the front seat! The estimate from the dealer was $1000! I even purchased the huge Torx bit to remove the seat bolts but with all the electrical connections, plastic covering the seat tracks that could easily break per a Youtube video, decided it was time to Trade for a BMW SUV instead!
Wife likes it more than the Porsche. Quality service and since the oil changes were free for 4 years never paid for any! But when I would have to pay they were reasonable and only BMW techs touch the car at the large Chevy, BMW, Mercedes dealer in town. FWIW
Last edited by JerryU; 06-20-2018 at 07:34 AM.
#37
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Member Since: Sep 2016
Location: Northville Michigan
Posts: 3,074
Received 1,195 Likes
on
663 Posts
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
I don't think the point was owning the car and not being able to afford but merely based on the low miles of driving and visibility the oil looks brand new to a non-tech non-gear head but to a layman.
It really was a learning opportunity for me as many of the forum members are more versed and educated on the technical and mechanics of cars and as you can see in this thread it was a lot of good discussion and I think most people have learned something they didn't know.
I equate asking the oil question to like in school where you were taught that there are no dumb questions that can be asked, and that the only dumb or unnecessary questions are those that people don't know the answer and/or afraid to ask and go forth with not asking and thus not knowing answers.
Lastly, it is one thing to own anything and not understand the cost of ownership and not being able to afford but it is another thing to own something, understand the cost of ownership, able to afford but at the same time understand what is really needed and when while being able to afford and make educated decisions.
I do subscribe when I counsel young people that the most important thing to car ownership is changing the oil regularly and will prevent many problems that arise when you don't change the oil. That said, for my 2500-3000 miles on my corvette, once a year oil change works for me but everyone makes their own decisions but we all are more knowledgeable having had this discussion as learning is a powerful thing!
It really was a learning opportunity for me as many of the forum members are more versed and educated on the technical and mechanics of cars and as you can see in this thread it was a lot of good discussion and I think most people have learned something they didn't know.
I equate asking the oil question to like in school where you were taught that there are no dumb questions that can be asked, and that the only dumb or unnecessary questions are those that people don't know the answer and/or afraid to ask and go forth with not asking and thus not knowing answers.
Lastly, it is one thing to own anything and not understand the cost of ownership and not being able to afford but it is another thing to own something, understand the cost of ownership, able to afford but at the same time understand what is really needed and when while being able to afford and make educated decisions.
I do subscribe when I counsel young people that the most important thing to car ownership is changing the oil regularly and will prevent many problems that arise when you don't change the oil. That said, for my 2500-3000 miles on my corvette, once a year oil change works for me but everyone makes their own decisions but we all are more knowledgeable having had this discussion as learning is a powerful thing!
I change the oil once a year. I figure if I can afford a Corvette, I can afford to maintain it.
Heck I have a boat, about 20 hours a year use. It says change the oil every year, and that's what I do. 20 would be way less use than 2000 miles.
These things are to expensive not to take care of.
My 2 cents.
Heck I have a boat, about 20 hours a year use. It says change the oil every year, and that's what I do. 20 would be way less use than 2000 miles.
These things are to expensive not to take care of.
My 2 cents.
#38
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Member Since: Sep 2016
Location: Northville Michigan
Posts: 3,074
Received 1,195 Likes
on
663 Posts
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
Jerry,
That's why I go to my private shop that specializes in servicing Mercedes, BMW, Audi, Porsche etc. Believe me, I pay about half of what I was paying the Porsche Dealership.
I have been out of BMW's for awhile and thought their service cost was absurd as well and thus sent me to the Lexus brand and I owned the LS400, LS430, GS400 and my current SC430 and rank Lexus as the top quality and lowest maintenance cars on the planet in my opinion.
I will admit that BMW quality has come a long way and I love their current cars. I also, love my corvette and love my 2018 GMC Denali but the GMC has had multiple recalls within 8 months of ownership although minor but still tells me they have work to do but the service is good.
By the way, thanks for sharing all of your knowledge and technical skillset with this and the other forum as I have completed a myriad of mods based on your information sharing.
That's why I go to my private shop that specializes in servicing Mercedes, BMW, Audi, Porsche etc. Believe me, I pay about half of what I was paying the Porsche Dealership.
I have been out of BMW's for awhile and thought their service cost was absurd as well and thus sent me to the Lexus brand and I owned the LS400, LS430, GS400 and my current SC430 and rank Lexus as the top quality and lowest maintenance cars on the planet in my opinion.
I will admit that BMW quality has come a long way and I love their current cars. I also, love my corvette and love my 2018 GMC Denali but the GMC has had multiple recalls within 8 months of ownership although minor but still tells me they have work to do but the service is good.
By the way, thanks for sharing all of your knowledge and technical skillset with this and the other forum as I have completed a myriad of mods based on your information sharing.
Your comment about manufacturers recommending things so you bring your car to the dealer are a feeling some folks have and is most often NOT TRUE!
That fits oil changes! Been changing my own oil for ~60 years in my cars. Used to be "required at shorter intervals than todays "better formulated oils." However I have been using Mobil 1 since 1974!
All 5 of my Vettes sine the '88 and other cars and trucks have said change once a year as a minimum. As I mentioned in a prior post they also said change more frequently in sever service and my '93 Vette Owner's Manual defined that for the "few miles/year use" example you describe:
"If most drives are under 4 miles change at 3000 miles or 3 MONTHS WHICHEVER OCCURS FORST!"
It appears many folks don't understand the reason and therefore don't understand why that is considered "severe service." The worse thing for oil and the engine is a cold start. The extra clearance from pistons to cylinder wall and the rich fuel/air mixture required for starting and idling until the engine is warm causes combustion products to go past the rings into the crackcase. A main combustion product is water. It forms with the other combustion products that pass the rings, especially on cold starts and forms acids! Those acids corrode the metals in your engine! Oil does not have to "look bad" for those acids to be corroding your engine parts while it's just sitting there!
Porsche Cayenne:
The comment about your Cayenne struck a cord. The issue I had with our Porsche Cayenne service was annoying and I was happy when we traded it for a BMW SUV! It's not that the Porsche recommended "inspection" items and changes that IMO were boiler plate, nice to do- it was the cost!
Folks talk about how their great service. Agree it is good but the price is ridiculous. Could not reset the oil change monitor without connecting to the Porsche maintenance computer so $225 for an oil change and the other "inspection" stuff was very high. That the 2nd year had other extra's so another $150 on top of that $250. At year 4 Porsche service said you'll need brakes and the cost estimate was $2600! Because it was a bit more complicated that I wanted to tackle and I did not have a service manual, I had a friend with a shop (who built the racing trans in my street rod) do the 4 wheel job for $500. After a slight vibration when braking he replaced the front rotors with aftermarket for $125.
We liked the car but it needed a battery that required removing the front seat! The estimate from the dealer was $1000! I even purchased the huge Torx bit to remove the seat bolts but with all the electrical connections, plastic covering the seat tracks that could easily break per a Youtube video, decided it was time to Trade for a BMW SUV instead!
Wife likes it more than the Porsche. Quality service and since the oil changes were free for 4 years never paid for any! But when I would have to pay they were reasonable and only BMW techs touch the car at the large Chevy, BMW, Mercedes dealer in town. FWIW
That fits oil changes! Been changing my own oil for ~60 years in my cars. Used to be "required at shorter intervals than todays "better formulated oils." However I have been using Mobil 1 since 1974!
All 5 of my Vettes sine the '88 and other cars and trucks have said change once a year as a minimum. As I mentioned in a prior post they also said change more frequently in sever service and my '93 Vette Owner's Manual defined that for the "few miles/year use" example you describe:
"If most drives are under 4 miles change at 3000 miles or 3 MONTHS WHICHEVER OCCURS FORST!"
It appears many folks don't understand the reason and therefore don't understand why that is considered "severe service." The worse thing for oil and the engine is a cold start. The extra clearance from pistons to cylinder wall and the rich fuel/air mixture required for starting and idling until the engine is warm causes combustion products to go past the rings into the crackcase. A main combustion product is water. It forms with the other combustion products that pass the rings, especially on cold starts and forms acids! Those acids corrode the metals in your engine! Oil does not have to "look bad" for those acids to be corroding your engine parts while it's just sitting there!
Porsche Cayenne:
The comment about your Cayenne struck a cord. The issue I had with our Porsche Cayenne service was annoying and I was happy when we traded it for a BMW SUV! It's not that the Porsche recommended "inspection" items and changes that IMO were boiler plate, nice to do- it was the cost!
Folks talk about how their great service. Agree it is good but the price is ridiculous. Could not reset the oil change monitor without connecting to the Porsche maintenance computer so $225 for an oil change and the other "inspection" stuff was very high. That the 2nd year had other extra's so another $150 on top of that $250. At year 4 Porsche service said you'll need brakes and the cost estimate was $2600! Because it was a bit more complicated that I wanted to tackle and I did not have a service manual, I had a friend with a shop (who built the racing trans in my street rod) do the 4 wheel job for $500. After a slight vibration when braking he replaced the front rotors with aftermarket for $125.
We liked the car but it needed a battery that required removing the front seat! The estimate from the dealer was $1000! I even purchased the huge Torx bit to remove the seat bolts but with all the electrical connections, plastic covering the seat tracks that could easily break per a Youtube video, decided it was time to Trade for a BMW SUV instead!
Wife likes it more than the Porsche. Quality service and since the oil changes were free for 4 years never paid for any! But when I would have to pay they were reasonable and only BMW techs touch the car at the large Chevy, BMW, Mercedes dealer in town. FWIW
The following users liked this post:
sjw91 (04-30-2020)
#39
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: NE South Carolina
Posts: 29,449
Received 9,606 Likes
on
6,619 Posts
^^
Thanks,
Your right, if you can find a good independent, as you have, not only saves money but you know the job is done right and no unneeded extra's!
Thanks,
Your right, if you can find a good independent, as you have, not only saves money but you know the job is done right and no unneeded extra's!
Last edited by JerryU; 06-20-2018 at 07:49 PM.
#40
Melting Slicks
Question if you don't change the oil before winter storage, is it just very minor damages and it still takes a long time to damage the engine right? 5 winters or? and maybe with combination of a lot of short trips etc? Engine can take some beatings right? But of course we want to keep it in the perfect shape.
Usually my drives are pretty long, but haven't touched the car in 3 months (not winter storage but the shut down), one other time I didn't drive it for about 2.5 months too. Moisture/humidity here is pretty low though.