How do YOU care for your finish?
#21
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jun 2018
Location: Washington State
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+1000 on The RAG Company
You can also buy directly from their website. And they offer coupons quite frequently. Quick shipping and reasonable. Buy the Korean rags.
A good way to see swirls is to take a picture with your flash. It's gonna show you damage. This was the paint on my 2016 Genesis Coupe after 2 years of proper washing/care... It can be done!
Last edited by Sconn; 08-12-2018 at 11:28 AM.
#22
Melting Slicks
Mine is Watkns Glen Gray, but I have also used the California Squeegee on my black cars, no scratches, BUT you do need to wipe the edge of the blade clean with your wet fingers every few swipes, as you dry the car, to ensure there is nothing abrasive.
#23
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
WGG is very close to the Mercedes color . I always do wipe the blade. Wish they still had WGG.That would have been my first choice as my Merc. Looks clean even after a rain .
#25
Pro
For those of you who use a leaf blower or power air dryer try blowing from the front towards the rear when drying the rear view mirrors. The rushing air over the mirrors will create a venturi effect and draw the water out of the mirror housing rather than blowing it in behind the glass. Hold the blower 4-6 inches away from the front of the mirror and watch it suck the rinse water out.
Ron
Ron
Last edited by NoRuls; 08-12-2018 at 09:58 PM.
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DWS44 (08-13-2018)
#26
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jun 2018
Location: Washington State
Posts: 852
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For those of you who use a leaf blower or power air dryer try blowing from the front towards the rear when drying the rear view mirrors. The rushing air over the mirrors will create a venturi effect and draw the water out of the mirror housing rather than blowing it in behind the glass. Hold the blower 4-6 inches away from the front of the mirror and watch it suck the rinse water out.
Ron
Ron
#27
I've used WIZARDS brand, Mist 'N Shine for many years on my vehicles. That's all your C7 needs.......
#28
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Apr 2002
Location: Tellico Plains Tennessee
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I haven't warmed up to the idea of a waterless wash or using a detail spray on a dusty car. There's bound to be... HAS to be particles capable of scratching paint sitting on the car that will get wiped across the surface before being captured within your wash cloth. If it looks like it's dusty then it likely has these particles on it. Now all is not lost. One thing working for you if this is your method, is the waterless soap or detail spray provides lubrication. Is it enough to prevent scratching? Maybe. Maybe not. We need and use this lubrication when claying the car, works then. But is that comparable to wiping dust and dirt across the paint?
Paint also has contaminates imbedded in the paint surface that doesn't wash off. Most of you know this. We use a clay bar or clay mitt to remove it. Did you know you can feel the contaminates? Put your hand inside a plastic bag, I use a Walmart bag, and gently wipe you're hand across clean paint. If you feel tiny bumps you need to clay bar or mitt. Mine feels slick as ice.
Attention to details when detailing is the key to showroom paint years down the road.
Paint also has contaminates imbedded in the paint surface that doesn't wash off. Most of you know this. We use a clay bar or clay mitt to remove it. Did you know you can feel the contaminates? Put your hand inside a plastic bag, I use a Walmart bag, and gently wipe you're hand across clean paint. If you feel tiny bumps you need to clay bar or mitt. Mine feels slick as ice.
Attention to details when detailing is the key to showroom paint years down the road.
Last edited by Frodo; 08-13-2018 at 06:41 AM.
#29
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I haven't warmed up to the idea of a waterless wash or using a detail spray on a dusty car. There's bound to be... HAS to be particles capable of scratching paint sitting on the car that will get wiped across the surface before being captured within your wash cloth. If it looks like it's dusty then it likely has these particles on it. Now all is not lost. One thing working for you if this is your method, is the waterless soap or detail spray provides lubrication. Is it enough to prevent scratching? Maybe. Maybe not. We need and use this lubrication when claying the car, works then. But is that comparable to wiping dust and dirt across the paint?
Paint also has contaminates imbedded in the paint surface that doesn't wash off. Most of you know this. We use a clay bar or clay mitt to remove it. Did you know you can feel the contaminates? Put your hand inside a plastic bag, I use a Walmart bag, and gently wipe you're hand across clean paint. If you feel tiny bumps you need to clay bar or mitt. Mine feels slick as ice.
Attention to details when detailing is the key to showroom paint years down the road.
Paint also has contaminates imbedded in the paint surface that doesn't wash off. Most of you know this. We use a clay bar or clay mitt to remove it. Did you know you can feel the contaminates? Put your hand inside a plastic bag, I use a Walmart bag, and gently wipe you're hand across clean paint. If you feel tiny bumps you need to clay bar or mitt. Mine feels slick as ice.
Attention to details when detailing is the key to showroom paint years down the road.
#30
Safety Car
Never touch the car with a towel or rag always blow wash off with leaf blower.Ever time i come back home it is washed and detailed Only use ZYMOL products
#31
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
#32
Instructor
I haven't warmed up to the idea of a waterless wash or using a detail spray on a dusty car. There's bound to be... HAS to be particles capable of scratching paint sitting on the car that will get wiped across the surface before being captured within your wash cloth. If it looks like it's dusty then it likely has these particles on it. Now all is not lost. One thing working for you if this is your method, is the waterless soap or detail spray provides lubrication. Is it enough to prevent scratching? Maybe. Maybe not. We need and use this lubrication when claying the car, works then. But is that comparable to wiping dust and dirt across the paint?
Paint also has contaminates imbedded in the paint surface that doesn't wash off. Most of you know this. We use a clay bar or clay mitt to remove it. Did you know you can feel the contaminates? Put your hand inside a plastic bag, I use a Walmart bag, and gently wipe you're hand across clean paint. If you feel tiny bumps you need to clay bar or mitt. Mine feels slick as ice.
Attention to details when detailing is the key to showroom paint years down the road.
Paint also has contaminates imbedded in the paint surface that doesn't wash off. Most of you know this. We use a clay bar or clay mitt to remove it. Did you know you can feel the contaminates? Put your hand inside a plastic bag, I use a Walmart bag, and gently wipe you're hand across clean paint. If you feel tiny bumps you need to clay bar or mitt. Mine feels slick as ice.
Attention to details when detailing is the key to showroom paint years down the road.
My C7 has a few swirl marks in the paint from the dealership's activities before I bought it, but no new ones. My previous C6Z had no swirl marks on it when I bought it, and still had none when I sold it. I never washed that car with water.
#34
I had a black car for 13 years - they look great when clean but are only really clean for about an hour after washing, lol. They also look better when they're not yours, because when they're yours you look at it more closely and see every little flaw.
Key things to remember - never touch the car with anything when its dirty or dusty, you will scratch the car and you will see it big time on black.
The most important part of washing the car is the rinse, make sure you've rinsed it thoroughly before you do anything else. It gets most of the dirt off and lubricates the surface.
When/if you do touch the car, with a microfiber mitt, sponge, etc., make sure with your hand and eyes that there is nothing between the washing tool and the car or you're gonna end up with scratches. Use quality microfiber whenever possible.
The leaf blower drying method is great, helps eliminate the after wash water spot misery that will happen if you don't blow the water out of the nooks and crannies.
If you wax, do it in light coats.
Only wash your car in the shade, never in full sunlight.
Oh, and don't stare at your black car looking for imperfections in the sun... lol.
Key things to remember - never touch the car with anything when its dirty or dusty, you will scratch the car and you will see it big time on black.
The most important part of washing the car is the rinse, make sure you've rinsed it thoroughly before you do anything else. It gets most of the dirt off and lubricates the surface.
When/if you do touch the car, with a microfiber mitt, sponge, etc., make sure with your hand and eyes that there is nothing between the washing tool and the car or you're gonna end up with scratches. Use quality microfiber whenever possible.
The leaf blower drying method is great, helps eliminate the after wash water spot misery that will happen if you don't blow the water out of the nooks and crannies.
If you wax, do it in light coats.
Only wash your car in the shade, never in full sunlight.
Oh, and don't stare at your black car looking for imperfections in the sun... lol.
#35
Drifting
Three separate routines:
1) Annually: check for contamination and remove if necessary, then apply Gyeon Q2 Primer (finishing polish) with a DA, and then a coat of Gyeon CanCoat.
2) Then during the driving season, whenever car is dirty, water-spotted or more than the usual dust: Foam gun with any quality car foaming car shampoo, then a bucket wash using Gyeon Q2 Bathe+, blow dry. After dry, maybe a quick application of Polish Angel High Gloss as a sacrificial layer once or twice a year.
3) Light dust or after a pleasure drive: wipe down with a quality detail spray (or use kenotek) maybe use Chadwicks Triple Play on those areas that really get dirty like rockers and wheels.
Mine are fair-weather cars so most times it's just the wipe down routine.
1) Annually: check for contamination and remove if necessary, then apply Gyeon Q2 Primer (finishing polish) with a DA, and then a coat of Gyeon CanCoat.
2) Then during the driving season, whenever car is dirty, water-spotted or more than the usual dust: Foam gun with any quality car foaming car shampoo, then a bucket wash using Gyeon Q2 Bathe+, blow dry. After dry, maybe a quick application of Polish Angel High Gloss as a sacrificial layer once or twice a year.
3) Light dust or after a pleasure drive: wipe down with a quality detail spray (or use kenotek) maybe use Chadwicks Triple Play on those areas that really get dirty like rockers and wheels.
Mine are fair-weather cars so most times it's just the wipe down routine.
#36
Feed them Typical Finnish dishes
- Kaalikääryleet – cabbage rolls.
- Game food. ...
- Hernekeitto – pea soup, usually served on Thursday along with a dessert pancake.
- Leipäjuusto, alternate names hiilikko and juustoleipä – a fresh cow's milk cheese.
- Viili – a yoghurt-like fermented milk product.
- Perunamuusi – Mashed potato, a common side dish.
#37
Advanced
Spent the weekend detailing the exterior of my wife’s black ‘15 Z51 DD. Here’s what I did:
- Sprayed on Iron X
- Rinse with plenty of water
- Washed car with foam cannon
- Clayed they car
- Polished the car using a DA polisher with multiple grades of pads and polished
- Prepped the surface with CarPro Eraser
- Applied two coats of CarPro C-Quartz ceramic coating
- Applied one coat of CarPro Reload sealant
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FZ1 (08-18-2018)
#38
I use the protective layer of dirt method.
I've owned it since March and have yet to wash.
A good drive in the rain helps keep the excess dirt down.
Zero marks from dirt in the mitt or dirt in the chamois.
I've owned it since March and have yet to wash.
A good drive in the rain helps keep the excess dirt down.
Zero marks from dirt in the mitt or dirt in the chamois.
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Carvin (08-14-2018)
#39
Platinum Supporting Dealership
Member Since: May 2000
Location: Hammond Louisiana
Posts: 3,731
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Spent the weekend detailing the exterior of my wife’s black ‘15 Z51 DD. Here’s what I did:
- Sprayed on Iron X
- Rinse with plenty of water
- Washed car with foam cannon
- Clayed they car
- Polished the car using a DA polisher with multiple grades of pads and polished
- Prepped the surface with CarPro Eraser
- Applied two coats of CarPro C-Quartz ceramic coating
- Applied one coat of CarPro Reload sealant
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Tom Wooten
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Corvette Sales Manager
Ross Downing Chevrolet
Louisiana's #1 Corvette Dealer since 1992
985-345-1285
"PUTTING DREAMS IN DRIVEWAYS ACROSS AMERICA"
Join our Facebook Corvette community!
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#40
Spent the weekend detailing the exterior of my wife’s black ‘15 Z51 DD. Here’s what I did:
- Sprayed on Iron X
- Rinse with plenty of water
- Washed car with foam cannon
- Clayed they car
- Polished the car using a DA polisher with multiple grades of pads and polished
- Prepped the surface with CarPro Eraser
- Applied two coats of CarPro C-Quartz ceramic coating
- Applied one coat of CarPro Reload sealant