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Old 08-11-2018, 10:53 AM
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QUAKEJAKE
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Default How do YOU care for your finish?

Hi all, So I'm going from white to a black colored car. A C7 Z vert to be exact. Some of my methods used for my current white Challenger Hellcat may not boad well on here during this discussion.but here goes,. I only wash when needed using a GOOD car soap and an Adams wool wash mit follow by a waffle towel to dry. Between washings I use Adams waterless spray "wash" after using compressed air to blow off fine particles first. Sometimes for garage dust I use a California duster as well as at car shows. This Z, at age 62, is my dream car and probably the end of the road as far as a new high performance car,oh and did I say it is Black so I want to kick any bad habits that I have listed. How do you guys and gals care for yours? What products do you use that stand out above what you have used in the past? Do you go as far as to use the touchless method, foam,leaf blower etc.? Thanks.
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Old 08-11-2018, 11:11 AM
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Sconn
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YouTube Junkman....He'll show you all the proper techniques on how to keep your paint from showing the dreaded swirls, etc.

​​​​​​I use 3 bucket wash, leaf blower, and the correct drying rags. Never go through a car wash (except touchless on rare occasions I can't hand wash soon enough to get bugs off as they'll etch paint).

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Old 08-11-2018, 11:27 AM
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I have recently started a new routine with my 19 Z06 - it is not black, but WGG.

I try not to touch the car unless 100% necessary. I will qualify this with the fact that I have a full Suntek wrap on the whole car and ceramic coatings on the wheels, brakes, and suspension parts. I can tell it helps because I do not have wrap on my C5 and it takes a little longer to do this process.

First I use BDP (brake dust professional) on the wheels while the car is dry. It works wonders, turns a blood color or purple when it starts working. It removes most if not all of the brake dust without any agitation. Then rinse it off with a pressure washer. If still dirty, I use one of those wool wheel brushes with adams car shampoo.

Then, foam cannon the whole vehicle, same adams car shampoo. It is oddly satisfying to foam the car completely. leave on for a few minutes, then pressure wash to rinse it all off. If really dirty (after a long road trip for instance), I use a microfiber wash mitt and the two-bucket method. I use 2 mitts, one for the top of the car, one when i get to the bottom half and undercarriage.

While still soaked I spray Chemical Guys after wash.

Lastly I use a McKee's turbo air dryer to blow it off and make sure I get in all the usual spots like the mirrors, badges, body seams, plate, etc. A leaf blower would do the same thing I am sure.

Then dry the door jams and trunk/hood with a waffle weave, apply any dressings (I just do the tires with Honest Tire Love - I prefer this as it lasts a long time, doesn't throw product when you drive, and it doesn't have a very high gloss).

Then I admire the beauty that is the Vette!

Unless really dirty, the whole process takes about an hour in total.

I used to view detailing as a chore and would usually just have a mobile detailer do it and pay a decent price. Now it is more of a therapy and gives me more time with my cars.

Previous method was the standard two bucket method with wash mitt, then waffle weave to dry. The above virtually eliminates the chances of scratches or swirls on the cars.
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Old 08-11-2018, 12:16 PM
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I like any liquid car wash/wax that Advance Auto or AutoZone puts on sale when I've run out. I currently favor Meguiars Ultra Fast Finish coating - spray on the towel microfiber (included) and then NOTHING. no buff out. I love to short cut Mr. Myagi - only wax-on no wax-off. Pricey at $18/bottle, but Advance/Autozone puts it on sale around $13 regularly. bucket/hose - off the rack. I think advance gave out 5 gal buckets one time if you bought enough car cleaning matls. towels - lots of microfiber and old worn out bathtowels. Sometimes I use a man-made chamois to dry. water - out of the pipe. Tire dressing - whatever is on sale when I've run out.

It's never been easier to keep a car clean. The paint jobs are long lasting, the car care industry has grown from just Kit and Turtle wax, and compounding a dull finish is almost eliminated. So why wouldn't the ad boys for the car care industry induce Fear Uncertainty and Doubt if you don't spend thousand dollars to wash your car properly now.

I've read alot of used car ads, not once was the car care procedures documented on the car fax. If the finish looks nice maybe the used car manager WON"T DEDUCT from the meager trade-in amount they offer you. But nobody has ever advertised the previous car care/coatings applied to the used car that they are selling. Lotta dollars (and time) down the drain every Saturday afternoon.
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Old 08-11-2018, 12:35 PM
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I never use a wash or a hose since I've tried this product. It made my C5 a show winner and keeps my C7 looking brandy new... Spend the money on top grade micro-fiber towels and you wont have any issues.


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Old 08-11-2018, 01:10 PM
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Bill Dearborn
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You are going from the easiest color to maintain to the hardest color to maintain. I wouldn't say the clear coat is soft. It is hard and just like hardened safety glasses is easy to scratch. When you put a small scratch on a white car you don't see it and it can be hard to find even on close inspection. On a black car the same small scratch will show up 20 ft away.

My first black car in 58 years of driving is my 2015Z. It looks great when clean. People call it the Bat Mobile the way it looks with the Stage 3 Aero Mounted on it. However, I am tired of cleaning it and having it look dirty 3 hours after I park it in the garage.

As for treating the paint I prefer Turtle Wax ICE Product. It is easy to apply and provides an excellent shine. I find that it looks best when I wash the car after the first application. I put it on once per year and use the TW ICE instant detailer to maintain the shine. Since I track the car regularly I do have Expel applied to the front fascia and the front of the hood/fenders, the rocker panels, lower doors, brake ducts and rear quarters. The track turds that get thrown up by my wheels or others is difficult to clean off the Expel but much easier to clean off the paint. However, the Expel keeps the small stones embedded in those turds from chipping the paint where it hits directly against the car. The painted areas that aren't covered (like the rear of the hood) only see glancing blows so I haven't seen paint chips develop there but I have seen tears and gouges in the Expel that is applied around the rear brake ducts. By the way Expel is only self healing on minor rubs and scuffs. You hit a hard shelled bug at 150 mph and that sucker will leave a permanent smear in the Expel.
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Old 08-11-2018, 01:21 PM
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I've joked before...when it comes to cars and detailing...black isn't a color, it's a career choice!

Personally, I'm a longtime user of Zaino products. A little more effort up front compared to some, but easy to maintain from there. For washing, I use 100% cotton white towels, dry by an electric leaf blower, and dry up any left over water spots with cotton or microfiber towels.
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Old 08-11-2018, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Dearborn View Post
You are going from the easiest color to maintain to the hardest color to maintain. I wouldn't say the clear coat is soft. It is hard and just like hardened safety glasses is easy to scratch. When you put a small scratch on a white car you don't see it and it can be hard to find even on close inspection. On a black car the same small scratch will show up 20 ft away.

My first black car in 58 years of driving is my 2015Z. It looks great when clean. People call it the Bat Mobile the way it looks with the Stage 3 Aero Mounted on it. However, I am tired of cleaning it and having it look dirty 3 hours after I park it in the garage.

As for treating the paint I prefer Turtle Wax ICE Product. It is easy to apply and provides an excellent shine. I find that it looks best when I wash the car after the first application. I put it on once per year and use the TW ICE instant detailer to maintain the shine. Since I track the car regularly I do have Expel applied to the front fascia and the front of the hood/fenders, the rocker panels, lower doors, brake ducts and rear quarters. The track turds that get thrown up by my wheels or others is difficult to clean off the Expel but much easier to clean off the paint. However, the Expel keeps the small stones embedded in those turds from chipping the paint where it hits directly against the car. The painted areas that aren't covered (like the rear of the hood) only see glancing blows so I haven't seen paint chips develop there but I have seen tears and gouges in the Expel that is applied around the rear brake ducts. By the way Expel is only self healing on minor rubs and scuffs. You hit a hard shelled bug at 150 mph and that sucker will leave a permanent smear in the Expel.
Bill
Thanks Bill, I do plan on Xpel on the areas you suggested as I did on myC6 Z.
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Old 08-11-2018, 02:22 PM
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I have never had a problem with black cars. They are honest. You can see what you are doing. With white cars, unless it is grime, you can't see the results of your work as easily. I use a ceramic coating with plain wax on top, wash with a good soap like Zaino, use an Air Force Master Blaster to dry with a few microfiber towels for touch up. Wash once a week in less than half an hour. I use Meguiar's "Final Inspection" for errant fingerprints and smears between times. I get constant comments on how good and clean the car looks. Black for the win.
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Old 08-11-2018, 03:27 PM
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Wash her down with hose
put some McGuire’s car wash in a bucket
use my hand mitt to wash down car
rinse with hose
wipe dry with chamois cloth

Use mcguires chrome cleaner for exhaust tips
wipe with rag

Last edited by Corgidog1; 08-11-2018 at 03:29 PM.
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Old 08-11-2018, 08:05 PM
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Carnauba paste wax. After trying many synthetics, etc. , it's still my fave.
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Old 08-11-2018, 08:18 PM
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Hose, one bucket, Zaino car wash, sheep wool mitt (not synthetic), silicone water blade, Griots ultimate microfiber drying towel.
Zaino Z2 with ZFX.
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Old 08-12-2018, 07:08 AM
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Lots of good tips posted here. Like many of you , I've tried lots of products and methods. You'll get good results from most all products out there, some are better than others but much of that is subjective and personal preference. One method I've adopted and can't find fault with is the one wash bucket with many microfiber cloths method. Forget about grit guards, 2 and 3 buckets, and other methods and buy yourself a 10 pack of quality microfiber towels. Not big box store quality towels, quality towels sold by car care companies made for car care. Like many products, micro fiber towels aren't all made the same.

Fill your one wash bucket with a quality car wash soap. Take one clean towel, soap it up good, and wash one section. I usually wash the roof and front and back glass with this towel. When done toss that towel aside, into a clean container of your choice, and grab another fresh, clean towel to wash the next section. NEVER put a used towel into your soap bucket! Repeat for each section of the car. This will always assure you aren't contaminating your wash water with dirt and you're not trapping grit in your wash cloth or mitt and scratching your car with it in subsequent sections. Only clean wash cloths with clean soap touches your car. This will prevent most of the swirl marks that will show up like spider silk on black cars.

I've used wash mitts and find fault with them due to the possibility of trapping grit and causing fine scratches as you continue to wash with them. I've tried the 2 bucket method and find fault with it because you're still using one mitt or cloth. Even with a good rinse there's still a possibility of trapping grit in the mitt or cloth Forget about a grit guard. I don't want to put my wash cloth in a bucket that has grit in it, guard or not.

Micro fiber towels need a bit of special care. I wash mine in the washing machine with no softener and no dryer sheets. Anything but laundry detergent will inhibit water absorption. I dry them in the dryer. Then I inspect each one for foreign debris that can get stuck in the fibers. I have yellow towels for general washing, plush blue towels for drying, and black towels for inner wheel wells, exhaust, and places that generally get dirtier.
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Old 08-12-2018, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by ersatz928 View Post
Hose, one bucket, Zaino car wash, sheep wool mitt (not synthetic), silicone water blade, Griots ultimate microfiber drying towel.
Zaino Z2 with ZFX.
I have a California squeegee that I would be reluctant to use on Black but I've used it on my Graphite Grey Mercedes. What color is your Vette ? No scratches ?
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Old 08-12-2018, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Frodo View Post
Lots of good tips posted here. Like many of you , I've tried lots of products and methods. You'll get good results from most all products out there, some are better than others but much of that is subjective and personal preference. One method I've adopted and can't find fault with is the one wash bucket with many microfiber cloths method. Forget about grit guards, 2 and 3 buckets, and other methods and buy yourself a 10 pack of quality microfiber towels. Not big box store quality towels, quality towels sold by car care companies made for car care. Like many products, micro fiber towels aren't all made the same.

Fill your one wash bucket with a quality car wash soap. Take one clean towel, soap it up good, and wash one section. I usually wash the roof and front and back glass with this towel. When done toss that towel aside, into a clean container of your choice, and grab another fresh, clean towel to wash the next section. NEVER put a used towel into your soap bucket! Repeat for each section of the car. This will always assure you aren't contaminating your wash water with dirt and you're not trapping grit in your wash cloth or mitt and scratching your car with it in subsequent sections. Only clean wash cloths with clean soap touches your car. This will prevent most of the swirl marks that will show up like spider silk on black cars.

I've used wash mitts and find fault with them due to the possibility of trapping grit and causing fine scratches as you continue to wash with them. I've tried the 2 bucket method and find fault with it because you're still using one mitt or cloth. Even with a good rinse there's still a possibility of trapping grit in the mitt or cloth Forget about a grit guard. I don't want to put my wash cloth in a bucket that has grit in it, guard or not.

Micro fiber towels need a bit of special care. I wash mine in the washing machine with no softener and no dryer sheets. Anything but laundry detergent will inhibit water absorption. I dry them in the dryer. Then I inspect each one for foreign debris that can get stuck in the fibers. I have yellow towels for general washing, plush blue towels for drying, and black towels for inner wheel wells, exhaust, and places that generally get dirtier.
Very good read. A common sense approach to caring for black imo. Before I read your reply this method was given to me by a friend who is a collector of high end modern muscle including a new Zo6 coupe .He loves maintain his own cars. I will go with his collection of wash and detail towels that he uses.Ive seen his results. Thanks for your reply.
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Old 08-12-2018, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Mayor111 View Post
I never use a wash or a hose since I've tried this product. It made my C5 a show winner and keeps my C7 looking brandy new... Spend the money on top grade micro-fiber towels and you wont have any issues.

That a BOY! Just rub it right into the Clear Coat
Black is not for the Lazy.Very temperature sensitive to the dreaded SS's Scratch and Swirls.Black would be the ultimate test for ceramic coating.Maybe less rubbing with it?
People swear buy it here.The less you touch black,the better
Had Black for years.Still on DD.I gave up,threw in the towel!
Best Color Clean for sure.ENJOY,Your new ride.You Earned it.I'm Sure

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Old 08-12-2018, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by DALE#3 View Post
That a BOY! Just rub it right into the Clear Coat
I have to admit being intrigued by the "waterless wash" products since mine isn't a daily driver. I haven't had the nerve to try one yet, because it feels like you are doing exactly that. I tend to feel like if my car is just a bit on the dusty side, then quick detailer is sufficient for a wipe down. Beyond that, feels like car wash soap and water time...where does the "waterless wash" safely fall in line between "clean enough for quick detailer" and "so dirty it needs a full soap/water wash"?
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Old 08-12-2018, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by DWS44 View Post
I have to admit being intrigued by the "waterless wash" products since mine isn't a daily driver. I haven't had the nerve to try one yet, because it feels like you are doing exactly that.
Kind of a common sense decision.Why wash? Cause it's dirty,Right? What happens to the dirt when water less? You never even rinsed.That would be step #1? Always was.
Your amount of Swirls and Scratches in direct sunlight will dictate proper Paint Management.Being Lazy or Taking a wrong Shortcut will show
A soft furniture duster is a daily tool on my waxed surface.Liquid wax on a MF Towel does after ride touch up's.If full car needs a detail,it get's washed. Paint must be cool and clean to Touch.
After 11k miles,4 times rained on the finish looks very Reflective.No ceramic

Love that Orange Peel GM Finish

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Old 08-12-2018, 10:20 AM
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I love the protection that ceramic coating gives my black C-5. I have excel on my NRB C-7 which is a lessor alternative, but OK.
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Old 08-12-2018, 10:30 AM
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Consider these. Microfibers are NOT all created equal and that really matters. Simple, cheap(er), and excellent results. My GS likes it!
Foam Cannon Foam Cannon
Pressure Washer Pressure Washer
Mitt Mitt
Micro Micro
Liquid wax Liquid wax
Detailer Detailer
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