Understand the reason why you are changing and you’ll see 700 or more miles are not a a problem, IF you don’t drive the car at sustained high speed with the original factory oil. That applies to only dry sumps for a reason.

The GM bulletin that came out 13 months after I got my 2013 Z51 dry sump! So I never did change the oil until I had 1500 miles and had no issue.

GM said that the silicone from curing engine seals MAY deplete the antifoam agents in the first oil fill IF the engine was operated at sustained high speed. That oil foam MIGHT burp with the air in the dry sump tank through a hose that goes to the air intake tube after the air filter. That foam could condense and run down to the air filter and drip on the ground.

Note: Wet sumps don’t have a dry sump tank or hose going to the air intake tube. Therefore oil foam won’t cause any issues.

In the years since I got my 2014 Z51 many more posts of Dealer overfilling dry sumps causing oil to drip from the air filter than ever had it occur from engines operating at sustained high speed with the initial oil fill!

In fact when you get it home and have a dealer change oil, check the oil level yourself after. Just read and follow the proceedure in the Owner’s Manual (get the oil hot and check after 5 minutes of the engine being shut off BUT not more than 10 minutes or excess oil will drain back to the oil pan resulting in a false low reading.) If it is over the Max line on the dipnstick make the dealer remove all excess! That caution is also in the Owner’s Manual.

FWIW, since that GM bulletin was not issued for 13 months after I got my Z51 dry sump investigated the issue of oil foaming to try to understand the reasons. Turns out most oil includeds antifoam agents and silicone compounds are known to deplete or counter their effectiveness. But why 500 miles and not let the dealer change oil indealer prep as many could put on 500 miles in a day or two and the car takes longer to get to the dealer from Bowling Green?

Can only speculate as GM never said. The silicone from the curing engine seals, like the oil pan to engine block, probably needs heat to fully cure. That may be when the silicone compounds enter the oil. So time may not be the key factor, it’s time when the seals are hot!

Second, it’s NOT break-in oil as some has speculated as that went away years ago. That factory fill is standard Mobil 1. Same in wet and dry sumps. It’s also not to get rid of initial wear particles as some have also speculated. With current very good machining and parts quality that is not needed. If it were would be the same for wet sumps that only require a change when the OLM says that could be up to one year!

Therefor the 500 miles would appear to be long enough to have that 1st oil fill contain the silicone compounds causing “possible” oil foaming as GM stated IF the engine is operated at sustained high speeds.

As mentioned in my previous post, from reading forum posted since October 2013 on the subject, much more likely a dealer overfilling a dry sump will cause oil to flow into the intake air tube through the hose from the dry sump tank and run down and soak the air filter and drip on the ground, that folks operating the engine at “sustained high speeds.”

IMO, that is a none issue! I did my own change for my Grand Sport at about 500 miles and my only proof is the receipts I have for the dexos Certifed oil and the proper AC filter! In fact did my own change when the OLM said at about 12 months.

Did all my own oil changes in my September 2013 built C7 Z51 as well. I do keep receipts. Folks can risk the dealer newbie tech that usually operates the oil change bay not using jack pucks to properly lift the car. Can assure you they did not buy them for their owned tool box or probably won’t go to the tool room to sign them out IF the dealer has them.

Then you risk the chance that since 99.5% of the cars/trucks where they change oil have one drain plug they know the dry sump has two (from posts where a dry sump was way overfilled-some did not!)

Then hope they did not go by what the Service Manual clearly says is an oil volume “estimate” in a table and they checked the oil level on the dip-stick that the Service Manual says should be done. It’s the level that is important not volume.

That assumes rather than going to the parts department and checking out and lugging 10 quarts of Mobil 1 to their work station they didn’t just pump oil from the 55 gallon drums in the oil change bay. The boss probably just buys the cheapest dexos approved oil that is fine for 99+% of the cars and trucks they service. There are several hundred brands listed in the GM that pay them a tribute to get the dexos cert. Some are blends!

To check the oil level in a dry sump requires getting the oil over 175F. That takes ~10 minutes at idle. Then they have to wait 5 minutes for the oil to drain down from the internal baffles. But they can’t wait more than 10 or excess oil will drain back to the oil pan and they will get a false low reading.

WONDER WHY SOME OF US DO OUR OWN OIL CHANGE?

Foolish IMO as you risk it being overfilled which creates the problem the ~500 mile change is designed to avoid!

Just my opinion and we’re each entitled to one! Understand why it’s being requested.

Wait till you’re home and can talk to the dealer service department and feel confident it will be done right. In fact visit the local dealer ahead of time. You can also do as many and ask to have 9 quarts of Mobil 1 added and give you the 10th. When you get home with hot oil, check the level and add. You'll probably find you need less than 1/2 quart to bring up to Max level.

OP’s car their choice.

I don’t know if there is an excessive mileage! As I have outlind in several posts on this Thread, it was 13 months before GM came out with the bulletin that authorized the 500 mile change and said why it was needed. Therefore I changed my oil after several months and at ~1500 miles just as a precaution having nothing to do with oil foaming. [Of interest, the 2014 C7’s got 4 free oil changes but early on dealers followed the stated rules carefully that said, “Change oil when the OLM indicates” and would NOT make the first change in dry or wet sumps untill it read below ~20%! There was the Max two year limit so if you put on few miles you would not get the full 4 free! A number of early C7 posts complained about dealers making them wait for a low OLM reading. I had no choice but to do my own change or pay at 1500 miles!]

After the 500 mile break-in and certainly after 1000 miles I hit redline as I often do now BUT in a short burst and did not operate the engine as “sustained high speed” which the GM bulletin states MAY cause oil foam that will burp with the air from the dry sump tank and enter the air intake tube. Then as the bulletin states it MAY run down to the air filter, soak it and drip on the ground.

I CHECKED THE AIR INTAKE TUBE FOR SIGNS OF OIL.
I added a aFe low restriction air intake months after I got my 2014 Z51 dry sump and looked carefully in the OEM air intake tube and filter for any signs of oil. Not a drop.

FORUM POSTS
Because that GM bulletin came out over a year after I got my 2014 C7 I followed this issue in Forum Posts since October 2013. Don’t recall any who said, yep I operated my engine at sustained high speed and had oil dripping on the garage floor. However there were many posts that said oil dripping occurred but ALL from dealer overfilling! A number of those right after that 500 mile oil change!

IMO GM in that Bulletin also should have said oil dripping from the air filter can also occur from overfilling the dry sump! Check the oil level on the dip stick after an oil change, which is a requiment in the oil change process, and if over the MAX line have the dealer remove it. Note, there is a CAUTION STATEMENT in the Owner’s Manual that says excess oil is as bad as low oil and IF the level is above MAX have a Profeesional remove it.