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Questions about my re-entry in DD a Vette

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Old 08-31-2018, 11:46 AM
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Navy01Coupe
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Default Questions about my re-entry in DD a Vette

After 5 years with only one Corvette, I am planning to make the jump back into a DD with a C7. (Currently have a 1970 coupe, traded the 2001 coupe back in 2013 - had almost 180k miles). Some things I have decided or are relevant to my purchase:
  • It will be convertible (my first).
  • Exterior color, interior color (blue, preference to Night Race Blue and Kalahari).
  • Don’t care M7 or A8 (the 1970 is still a manual if I have the urge).
  • It will be a daily driver.
  • Will likely never track it. (Maybe once or twice ever)
I have been reading the forum like crazy for months and thought I’d toss a few questions out there.
  1. Stingray vs. Grand Sport. Can I reasonably justify the cost difference?
  2. To get Night Race Blue, I am limited to 2014/15. Most are low mileage, but is there a real concern about those model years?
  3. 2LT vs. 3LT? I know the package differences, but for those that have one, the other or both, does it really matter? Price difference is negligible on used, so what are pros/coms?
  4. Purchase form dealer or individual?
  5. In or out of state?
  6. And any random advice you want to toss.
This isn’t my first rodeo, but it is always nice to get the opinion of those in the know.

Thank you in advance.
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rogergcam (08-31-2018)
Old 08-31-2018, 11:55 AM
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Sconn
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I'm sorry, but you said you've been reading the forum like "crazy" and you still have those questions? Each one has been addressed ad nauseum...
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rogergcam (08-31-2018)
Old 08-31-2018, 12:28 PM
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Allen_B
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Bought my C7 with the intent of it being a DD for the vast majority of the year. Was looking at a GS but found the perfect car as a Z06- many may argue that it is "too much" for a DD but after 7k miles I disagree...

As to your questions:

Stingray vs. Grand Sport. Can I reasonably justify the cost difference?
The GS has a different look (is subjective) and is obviously geared more toward the track but a superb DD. If going with it (or even a Z06) the Z07 package will be a very expensive option that you won't take advantage of. The GS is more than just looks but the downsides- more limited tire availability, the wider fenders can be more prone to rock chips and if you're road-tripping and gas milage is a pet-peeve it has more aero drag equalling lower mileage. The milage thing is an incredible nit-pick unless it has the stage 2 or 3 package which is more significant.

To get Night Race Blue, I am limited to 2014/15. Most are low mileage, but is there a real concern about those model years?
Nothing specific I'm aware of other than the addition of the A8 (vs the A6) in 2015. Reading posts, the A8 (and associated TQ converter) is a horrendous transmission that is the automotive equivalent to a ticking time bomb! I specifically chose the A8 and have been very pleased with it, especially as a DD.

2LT vs. 3LT? I know the package differences, but for those that have one, the other or both, does it really matter? Price difference is negligible on used, so what are pros/coms?
I personally prefer the 2LT (LZ on the GS and Z) as I didn't care for the 3LT leather dash and a-pillar trim, but that's subjective. The 3 does include the NAV/PDR but my 2 has the stand-alone option and like it. I very seldom use the NAV (I use Android Auto with Waze) but the PDR is a great option I use for both service visits (in valet mode) and on spirited drives.

Purchase form dealer or individual?
Could go either way- Dealer to hold accountable but individual for better history depending on the deal. I purchased new but if I wasn't in a hurry for pre-owned, I would lean toward a Certified pre-owned (CPO) for warranty peace of mind. My C6 convertible was a low mile CPO and the dealership replaced the harmonic balancer under warranty and the throttle position sensor very cheap (at-cost for the part and free labor) after the warranty was up, because I bought from them...

In or out of state?
Depends on how good of a deal! I would lean toward a local dealership again, for the ability to hold a dealership accountable. Larger GM dealers "sometimes" will swap CPO cars with others, especially on a lower volume car like a Corvette and especially this time of year. Moving a high HP RWD car, especially a convertible gets tough as fall approaches. If you are good with non-local, my 1st call would be to Mike Furman at Criswell Chevy in Gaithersburg MD- tell him what you're looking for and he will likely have it or find it!

And any random advice you want to toss.
Love the C7 convertible and no stranger to convertibles! I specifically opted for the auto this go-round and had the 2LZ package as deal-breakers, adding NAV/PDR was a bonus...


/r

Allen

Last edited by Allen_B; 08-31-2018 at 12:32 PM.
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Navy01Coupe (08-31-2018)
Old 08-31-2018, 12:41 PM
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Skid Row Joe
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I think your best bet is to do a Nationwide Internet search for your Navy Night Race Blue.
2LT or 3LT whichever you find.I fail to see spending over $10K (new) gets you anything relevant to a DD by the gs.I would strongly recommend you get the Z51 Stingray, or the ZO6.On the USED market, you can pick up a lot of bargain prices. The only problem is that you narrows coped your exterior color Navy Blue.Absolutely agree on the convertible.Get the MagRide. You'll thank me!
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Navy01Coupe (08-31-2018)
Old 08-31-2018, 01:28 PM
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jimmbbo
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Originally Posted by Navy01Coupe
  1. Stingray vs. Grand Sport. Can I reasonably justify the cost difference?
  2. To get Night Race Blue, I am limited to 2014/15. Most are low mileage, but is there a real concern about those model years?
  3. 2LT vs. 3LT?
  4. Purchase form dealer or individual?
  5. In or out of state?
1) Unless you're tracking the car, the wider stance and additional systems in the GS don't get used, but some folks gotta have a wider 'vette.. The Stingray is all you'll be able to legally use on the street, with an occasional track day for fun. If systems and parts aren't installed, they cant break or require maintenance, and fewer parts/systems mean better reliability, desirable for a DD.
3) IMO the 2LT is the best value, with the 3LT buying more plushness that isn't worth the money.
4) If you're prepared to spend some time and effort and travel to get the car you want, with the number of "new" old vettes on dealer lots, suggest checking them out... the depreciation is taken into account and you get a new car with a factory warranty.
5) Check the smog and tax requirements for your state. Buying a new Mustang in NV and bringing to CA required proof I paid NV sales tax, and would need a CA smog cert the third year
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Navy01Coupe (08-31-2018)
Old 08-31-2018, 01:58 PM
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Bavaria
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Took delivery of my NRB 2LT in Feb. '15. After 42 months and 19k miles, a delaminating windshield (covered under warranty) has been the only issue. Otherwise, the car has been flawless. Can't say the same about my Lexus!
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Navy01Coupe (08-31-2018)
Old 08-31-2018, 04:45 PM
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Phanni
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There are no factory painted Night Race Blue Grand sports to my knowledge.
I have a NRB LT2 (14) W/Kalamari interior and I love it. No problems with the A8 'updated transmission'.
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Navy01Coupe (09-04-2018)
Old 08-31-2018, 07:36 PM
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Bill Dearborn
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Originally Posted by Navy01Coupe
After 5 years with only one Corvette, I am planning to make the jump back into a DD with a C7. (Currently have a 1970 coupe, traded the 2001 coupe back in 2013 - had almost 180k miles). Some things I have decided or are relevant to my purchase:
  • It will be convertible (my first).
  • Exterior color, interior color (blue, preference to Night Race Blue and Kalahari).
  • Don’t care M7 or A8 (the 1970 is still a manual if I have the urge).
  • It will be a daily driver.
  • Will likely never track it. (Maybe once or twice ever)
I have been reading the forum like crazy for months and thought I’d toss a few questions out there.
  • Stingray vs. Grand Sport. Can I reasonably justify the cost difference?
That is sort of up to you. From a DD standpoint the only thing I can say is the wide body cars will have incur road debris damage in the brake duct and rear quarter area due to stuff thrown off the front tires than the standard Stingray and Z51.
  • To get Night Race Blue, I am limited to 2014/15. Most are low mileage, but is there a real concern about those model years?
There were a few 2016 Night Race Blue Z06s. I don't know about the Stingrays. I would have purchased a 2016 NRB Z if it hadn't been 1500 miles away. NRB with Kalahari interior makes for a great combination.
  • 2LT vs. 3LT? I know the package differences, but for those that have one, the other or both, does it really matter? Price difference is negligible on used, so what are pros/coms?
The 3LT interior is just a little nicer with the leather wrapped dash. It also comes standard with the Nav/PDR option and the PDR is worth having and will make a good resale item since any track people will look for it in a used car. It is something that can't be added after the car is built.
  • Purchase form dealer or individual?
What ever. Depends on the deal you get.
  • In or out of state?
Again depends on the deal you get.
  • And any random advice you want to toss.
You may have to make a decision between the Competition Seats and the GT seats. There is very little difference between them from a comfort stand point. They both use the same seat frame and the seat bottom cushions are shaped the same for both of them. The only difference in the seat bottom cushions is in the way the seat skin is sewn and maybe the Comp Seat has firmer foam. The seat backs use the same frame as well. All of the differences in the seat back are due to differences in the foam, skins and the plastic trim pieces.
The seat back side bolsters on the Comp Seat are the same maximum depth of the GT seat side bolsters but they come up higher on your torso so they provide more torso support in turning maneuvers. The comp seats with the side bolsters inflated do an excellent job of keeping the torso in place when pulling Gs in corners. Plus the Comp Seats just look sexier and will be sought out by subsequent owners that might be looking for a track car.


This isn’t my first rodeo, but it is always nice to get the opinion of those in the know.

Thank you in advance.
Bill
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Navy01Coupe (09-04-2018)
Old 09-04-2018, 09:26 AM
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Navy01Coupe
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Allen_B, Skid Row Joe, jimmbbo, Bavaria, Phanni, Bill Dearborn,

Thank you all for your comments. It is wonderful to get some additional insight that is "in the moment." The NRB convertible I went to look at sold right before I got there. Grrr. No worries. The search is on and I will find the right one and not stress over it.

Insight on the seat differences is something I meant to ask.
Looks like I need to see a 2LT and 3LT in person to compare the leather wrap. Gut feeling is that it won't really matter either way.
Wide body could mean more rock chips. and more frequent new tires. Considering my desire to drive the wheels off, maybe a GS isn't the best plan. Especially with my preference to NRB.


Keep on Waving!!

Thank you all again!
Navy01Coupe
hoperfully soon... NRB14(or15)Vert
Old 09-05-2018, 01:00 AM
  #10  
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If you were to order a Stingray with Z51, Magnetic Ride, Dual Exhaust, Side Skirts and Mud flaps you'd spend about 8K (2017 prices) for these options. So the GS, which includes those as standard (Z06 suspension instead of Z51) is about $2K more expensive than a similarly optioned Stingray. So basally you're paying $2K for the wider body and tires.
Old 09-05-2018, 02:06 AM
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SilverGhost
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The base model will be a comfortable daily driver. Color limited to 2 my?, those are the
Best years for power train warranty, up to 2020 or 2021 and 100k miles. 2014 will have the c6 a6 transmission, the 2015 the a8. 2014 C6a6 trans is preferred, but I rolled the dice on a new a8 WITH THE AFM DISABLED. 4200 trouble-free miles so far. Unless you get a certified pre-owned from a Gm dealer, your bumper to bumper is toast. Problems reported here: fans/fan relays on the 2014, probably just age-related. 3lt, the leather on the dash separates from the 2lt plastic underneath, just something to look ugly and expensive to replace out of warranty. Vert top fabric can unravel at stress points, look for that. Hydraulic lines in vert top can crimp and cause leaks, look for that. Fobs will need new batteries. Track a vert? You will need a roll bar, Coupla vendors, both their products limit seat travel, recline. Competition parts (z51, GS, Z) have competition brakes, they dust (corrosive brake dust) copiously; base model brakes not so much dust. Competition cars have super sticky tires that throw rocks on the body panels, collect nails and generally have owners looking for all season tires; base model stock tires more user friendly; still all seasons rec for a dd. Mag ride recommended, but not required for a smooth ride on a base model. Since you are buying used with a color limitation, nothing above is a deal-breaker. The c7 vert in any trim/performance level is the most solid flex-free vert i've ever owned,
And that includes the c6 base model and C6 GS verts. But I did like the manual tops in both my c6's from a trouble-free long life perspective.

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