jsg1518

Do the rears change out the same way as the front. Is the pin that you have to push out the same size and same process?

pkincy

Been a couple of years, so I am operating off of memory. Give me a day or 2 and I will know for sure as I am putting ceramic pads in my new ATS-V (same calipers). But I remember a very slight change. The fronts had an extra small step. The back is just the pin. And if you have a punch that works on the front you can use it on the back.

Cirrus8

Yes, they are the same.

GoatHead

The pin is not the same size. I believe it is shorter than the front pin. Same process as front. There is no retention screw in the middle, just the two pins. The space behind is tight, so putting the pins back is a little challenging, at least for me. Not enough room to hammer them back. I used the flat side of a socket extension, then a small punch to recess them in place. I need to find out what professional tools mechanic use for this.

Mayor111

Here is a video for the FRONT - but at 13:50 in the video, he mentions the rear is even easier...hope this helps:

dfettero

Google "Brembo Caliper Pad Pin Punch" (out of stock everywhere for quite a while now). Harbor freight has a little 8 oz stubby ball pein hammer (item#95930) that works great.

JMII

I use a very small Robo-Grip style locking pliers in combination with a small plastic / nylon head hammer. Grab the pin with the pliers and lock onto it, then tap the pliers with hammer. Ensure the pliers don't slip (keep them locked tight) and use small short taps. Because your grabbing the pin from INSIDE the caliper vs the outside with a punch you gain some extra space to work. I use technique when removing the old pins too. As the pin slides in (or out) you might have to reposition the pliers. The fronts are easier since you can turn the wheels.

I've thought about using a wooden dowel since you could sand it down to be just a bit smaller then the hole plus cut it to your desired length. Of course being wood you would have to be careful not to split it when whacking with the hammer. Good news is that wouldn't damage anything since the wood is so soft.

pkincy

Any hardware store will sell a set of punches in graduated sizes. Should be in any tool box.

JMII

I got a set.. problem is they are tapered. So they work fine to start the removal process but at some point the tool is flared too much (larger diameter) and your forced to stop hammering it. Also the overall length means that during the insertion process you can't fit the pin, punch and hammer into the space available.

gliot1

That's what drifts are for....lol Buy a set of drifts.

pkincy

And I suppose I may have "drifts" as my punches are not tapered. They are sized but are the same circumference for about 3 inches than you have the wider handle.

I do have a set that are tapered buy not the best tool for this job.

Iconic

The rear pads are easier to change than the fronts. An old drill bit can be used to tap out the pins. Jacking the car and taking the wheels off are 90% of the work.

BrunoTheMellow

Yeah and at the point you use a pair of pliers and pull the rest of the pin out.

I can replace all brake pads and wheels off 1 floor jack in about 20 minutes now. I use:
Stubby hammer.
Punch set (I cut 1 punch in half to use it for pushing the pins back in on the back wheels as space is limited.
Channel locks and a rag.

i press the Pistons back in by hand.

I do this twice a month for track days.
​