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Adam's has okay products. Griot's, too. But not everything from either company is great.
I advise NOT going directly Adam's, Griot's, or any other one company's website as they're just trying to push their products. Instead, check out a forum dedicated to detailing like autogeek or autopia.
I have products from Wolfgang, McKee's, CarPro, Blackfire, Pinnacle, Chemical Guys, Adam's, Meguiar's, you name it. They all make good AND bad products. Some people here are talking about washing their cars for several hours. I certainly don't wax my car every time I wash it. And when I do, I don't spend 4-5 hours but I guarantee that my cars will shine with the best of them. It sounds like the OP is interested in maintenance wash methods.
^^^This method has replaced the two bucket method for me. I don't let me Vette get too dirty, so this works great.
For what it's worth, I think foam is overrated and a false sense of security. People typically look for high foam washes because that's what brands sell. What you're really looking for is lubricity. I like Wolfgang Uber for my rinseless wash, but also use ONR.
Here is just some of my arsenal.
Last edited by ahero4eternity; 10-19-2018 at 10:59 PM.
On another note I am amazed with what speed some of you profess to be able to wash or wax a vehicle. To thoroughly wash and dry my C7 it takes me 2.5 to 3 hours. I can cut about 1/2 hour off that by blow drying it. Waxing it takes 4 to 5 hours.
Good God, 3 hours to wash and dry a car?
It might take me 45 minutes, and 15 of those are spent driving to and from the nearest coin-op high pressure car wash. But then, I actually drive my cars instead of owning garage art being saved for the next owner.
Hose wet and then two bucket method with a nice fluffy mitt. For the soap bucket I use Meguiars wash & wax mentioned above. One thing that really convinced me to use a nice car soap is if the soap sits on your skin for a half hour and you can feel some irritation then it is probably caustic to a degree and stands to reason it would damange your paint over time. Then I dry with an absorbitive synthetic drying cloth and spray and rub in quick wax.
Based on what I read about how people wash their cars, I have no doubt they are riddled with swirls even though they believe they aren't. I've literally had people tell me their paint is great and then I ask for photos in direct sunlight and it is screaming with swirls. They didn't even see it until I pointed it out.
A good way to see swirls in paint is to take a picture with the flash on or use a good light right up against the paint. It'll tell you all you need to know.
But again, swirls and perfect paint aren't important to some people either... But like someone said in another thread... Once you learn what jacked up paint looks like, you'll never unsee it.
That two bucket car wash method is good. Go to Youtube and search for it. As an aside. A friend of mine has a black C7 and washes it about twice a year. He drives in rain, dust, you name it. The car looks like crap....until he gives it the 6 month wash and it looks brand new! Ya gotta love the clear coat that is on cars now days.
I see a lot of Griots (?) here. I used ONR on my 370Z for 9 years and just sold it couple weeks ago--the paint looked new (except the red really needed some TLC to get several years of "swirls" out of her).
Is something inherently wrong with ONR? A lot of people on the 370Z forum swore by it...
There is no perfect way to clean a car and there are lots of ways that work.
But just some rules I go by...
Never wash a car in full sunlight, you'll end up with water spots, try to do it in the shade or when the sun is way down.
If you're using water (I do) the rinse is the most important part - it gets as much dirt off as possible and lubes up the paint which reduces the chance of creating scratches.
When washing or wiping always and continuously check whatever you are using to make sure there is nothing between said device and the paint you are applying it to, one piece of dirt and you've created what amounts to sandpaper and you're gonna scratch your car.
Leafblowers are great for drying - it reduces contact with the paint and gets water out of all the nooks and crannies.
Microfiber is your friend - its the only material to use when touching your beloved car baby. Don't skimp here, using a bath towel or something like that can make your paint look very very sad.
Clean the wheels/wheel area with completely different materials than you use on the rest of the car.
Keep the car well waxed at all times, it creates a nice protective barrier between the paint and pretty much everything.
After driving check the paint, mostly on the front of the car, for dead bugs or bug excrement and remove it and treat the area with detailer or liquid spray wax. If you leave that on your paint, even for a day (and especially if your car sits in the sun for any amount of time) these materials will mar your paint and make your beautiful mechanical princess look like a hell beast.
There is no perfect way to clean a car and there are lots of ways that work.
But just some rules I go by...
Never wash a car in full sunlight, you'll end up with water spots, try to do it in the shade or when the sun is way down.
If you're using water (I do) the rinse is the most important part - it gets as much dirt off as possible and lubes up the paint which reduces the chance of creating scratches.
When washing or wiping always and continuously check whatever you are using to make sure there is nothing between said device and the paint you are applying it to, one piece of dirt and you've created what amounts to sandpaper and you're gonna scratch your car.
Leafblowers are great for drying - it reduces contact with the paint and gets water out of all the nooks and crannies.
Microfiber is your friend - its the only material to use when touching your beloved car baby. Don't skimp here, using a bath towel or something like that can make your paint look very very sad.
Clean the wheels/wheel area with completely different materials than you use on the rest of the car.
Keep the car well waxed at all times, it creates a nice protective barrier between the paint and pretty much everything.
After driving check the paint, mostly on the front of the car, for dead bugs or bug excrement and remove it and treat the area with detailer or liquid spray wax. If you leave that on your paint, even for a day (and especially if your car sits in the sun for any amount of time) these materials will mar your paint and make your beautiful mechanical princess look like a hell beast.
Always rinse cleaning cloth after each pass! Never touch front or rear tail lites with wash cloth. Always blow off with leaf blower . Then wipe glass with blue cloth made for windshields and glass. Wash every time you come back to your stable! Never drive a dirty car. Always cover car after drying with soft cover!
I see a lot of Griots (?) here. I used ONR on my 370Z for 9 years and just sold it couple weeks ago--the paint looked new (except the red really needed some TLC to get several years of "swirls" out of her).
Is something inherently wrong with ONR? A lot of people on the 370Z forum swore by it...
I've used it a handful of times. Maybe it was swirled to begin with? I like it, used it on a coated car though. After the first bottled I ended up switching to Ech2o if I wasn't doing a full wash.
I've used it a handful of times. Maybe it was swirled to begin with? I like it, used it on a coated car though. After the first bottled I ended up switching to Ech2o if I wasn't doing a full wash.
Bought it new... I'm sure it was me (and time). Standard gloss red paint--shows swirls like you read about (LOL). I clayed it once 6 (or so) years ago. By the time one details it twice a year (12hr hour project) and does some "spot / quick cleaning" when dirt began to show... doesn't take long before swirls are just there over time. It could have been buffed out since it had never been deep cleaned like that before.
I was just curious if Griots (et al) was better than ONR since there was only one mention of ONR. I actually started using ONR in 2007 on my Acura. Wondering it better stuff has come along...
By far, the best car wash product for me is a creeper seat. Really comes in handy for cleaning wheels and the lower panels on the car. My back agrees.
I also use a Sun Joe electric pressure washer, MATCC foam cannon ($25 on Amazon), 2 home depot 5 gallon buckets with grit guards, several quality micro fiber mitts for different sections (top, middle, bottom, wheels), Mr. Pink (or meguiar's gold class) soap, and an electric leaf blower solely dedicated for drying the car.
I also use ONR for in-between washes. I have a dedicated garden sprayer that I use to pre-soak each panel with water and ONR.
Occasionally I will finish off a wash with McKee's 37 Hydro Blue.
I usually use a standard garden hose nozzle to get the mud and rocks out of the wheel wells and undercarriage after driving on rural and unpaved roads. A pressure washer to do the same in winter with road salt. Also to debug it after a long trip in summer.
My normal wash is turtle wax car wash and a microfiber towel. And dry it with a old bath towel.
Even when it is super muddy or covered in salt the whole deal only takes about 45 minutes.
There will be plenty of opinions shared, but most will break down into guys who use hoses and guys who dont... I've heard great things about a foam cannon - just dont have any experience with it, and heard they are expensive.
Remember - regardless how you wash your car - remember to use the clay bar once a season, and always give it a good wax afterwards with a DA Buffer or by hand (again personal preference).
Depending on what type of person you are - here are two suggestions:
If you do NOT use a hose:
If you DO use a hose:
with the Mayor. Let's face it, for most of us dust is the major thing that gets our cars dirty 99% of the time. The Meguiars Ultimate line is the best I've found at a reasonable price. I have used the Croftgate line, and while it does a fine job I can't tell that it's any better than Megs. If mine gets to the point of being dirty enough for the hose I just wash it from top to bottom like I have all my other cars.
two bucket method using mother ultimate wash and wax although I loved Wolfgang car wash that I received free with my ceramic coat kit. Garden hose and microfiber mitt. Dry with leaf blower and finish any wet areas with a artificial chamois towel. Car is ceramic coated so no need to wax...45 minutes tops!
There is some good advice on here but an tremendous amount of poor advice being offered. I strongly advise going to Adams, Griots, or another of the professional sites for advice before you cause permanent damage to your car.
On another note I am amazed with what speed some of you profess to be able to wash or wax a vehicle. To thoroughly wash and dry my C7 it takes me 2.5 to 3 hours. I can cut about 1/2 hour off that by blow drying it. Waxing it takes 4 to 5 hours.
I'm with you--by the time I take out and put away all my gear (di-ionize water filter, pressure washer, 4 wash buckets, car dryer) and do everything, it's three hours to vacuum the interior and wash. Good to know I'm not the only one who cannot wash his car in 30 minutes.
I'm with you--by the time I take out and put away all my gear (di-ionize water filter, pressure washer, 4 wash buckets, car dryer) and do everything, it's three hours to vacuum the interior and wash. Good to know I'm not the only one who cannot wash his car in 30 minutes.
You definitely aren't alone
Another thing that needs to be mentioned is that not all microfiber is created equal. You can do a lot of damage to the clear by using cheap, Costco crap.
10-19-2018, 10:54 PM
with the Mayor. Let's face it, for most of us dust is the major thing that gets our cars dirty 99% of the time. The Meguiars Ultimate line is the best I've found at a reasonable price. I have used the Croftgate line, and while it does a fine job I can't tell that it's any better than Megs. If mine gets to the point of being dirty enough for the hose I just wash it from top to bottom like I have all my other cars.
