Blew Coolant Line
#41
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
it isn't the norm for techs to diagnose correctly and track down multiple issues, so you definitely have a good one, OP.
#42
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St. Jude Donor '13
A good tech will sometimes be seen just staring at a problem car, thinking through the possibilities instead of standing at the parts counter.
I know one that gets on this Forum if someone brings him an aftermarket parts problem he hasn't experienced before.
I know one that gets on this Forum if someone brings him an aftermarket parts problem he hasn't experienced before.
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Rebel Yell (12-08-2018)
#44
Does anyone know what the basic problem is and why the Z06 fan fixes it? I have a 2014 Stingray which overheated at slow speed on surface streets just after a 2 hour drive at 70mph. The dealer changed the water pump. The car had only 24k miles on it. Now I’m wondering if it was due to this fan problem described here and not the water pump at all.
#45
Race Director
That's kind of an interesting observation.
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Rebel Yell (12-08-2018)
#48
Drifting
Member Since: Jun 2016
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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (track prepared)
C7 of Year Winner (track prepared) 2019
v0v the fan is pretty much useless (any of them) for track sessions.
The fan only really matters when you come in off track and you're sitting in impound or in your paddock spot.
eta: been through two water pumps and the overflow reservoir hose assembly failed at nationals as the alternator pulley ripped a hole in it.
Last edited by lobsterroboto; 12-09-2018 at 03:26 PM.
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Bavaria (12-10-2018)
#50
Drifting
Has this issue been corrected for the 2019 model year Stingray? From what I have been reading on this forum I have been almost kicking myself for buying my new Stingray. My 2008 Corvette never gave me any problems at all buying it new and owning it 5 years and 35,000 miles. I sold it in 2013 and missed a Vette ever since. So now I buy a new 2019 and back on this forum again and that's all I see is problems with the A8 transmission and now the cooling fan. So now I need to buy a range module so my new Corvette doesn't go into 4 cyl mode and destroy my transmission and a Z06 cooling fan so it doesn't overheat! With 800 miles on it I'm already thinking about trading it!
#52
Has this issue been corrected for the 2019 model year Stingray? From what I have been reading on this forum I have been almost kicking myself for buying my new Stingray. My 2008 Corvette never gave me any problems at all buying it new and owning it 5 years and 35,000 miles. I sold it in 2013 and missed a Vette ever since. So now I buy a new 2019 and back on this forum again and that's all I see is problems with the A8 transmission and now the cooling fan. So now I need to buy a range module so my new Corvette doesn't go into 4 cyl mode and destroy my transmission and a Z06 cooling fan so it doesn't overheat! With 800 miles on it I'm already thinking about trading it!
Read and enjoy the forum and your new C7, tuck some of these problems away in the back of you head, it saved me when I read about this exact event about 2 months before it happened to me...
#53
Moderator/Tech Contributor
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2015 C7 of the Year Finalist
Has this issue been corrected for the 2019 model year Stingray? From what I have been reading on this forum I have been almost kicking myself for buying my new Stingray. My 2008 Corvette never gave me any problems at all buying it new and owning it 5 years and 35,000 miles. I sold it in 2013 and missed a Vette ever since. So now I buy a new 2019 and back on this forum again and that's all I see is problems with the A8 transmission and now the cooling fan. So now I need to buy a range module so my new Corvette doesn't go into 4 cyl mode and destroy my transmission and a Z06 cooling fan so it doesn't overheat! With 800 miles on it I'm already thinking about trading it!
2015 & 2016 MY for the Torque Converter.
Relax and drive your car!
Elmer
Last edited by eboggs_jkvl; 12-10-2018 at 08:55 AM.
#54
Pro
Reading all these post leads me to believe it is not the fan, but the fan controller or the wiring.
Possibly the controller is in the wiring associated with fan swap but I would be surprised if it was. Or possibly the factory wiring is at fault.
I would think if you can get a shop manual and determine where the temperature monitor/fan switch and wiring is you would be able to solve this problem for a lot cheaper.
Possibly the controller is in the wiring associated with fan swap but I would be surprised if it was. Or possibly the factory wiring is at fault.
I would think if you can get a shop manual and determine where the temperature monitor/fan switch and wiring is you would be able to solve this problem for a lot cheaper.
Last edited by Travelor; 12-10-2018 at 09:40 AM.
#55
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Reading all these post leads me to believe it is not the fan, but the fan controller or the wiring.
Possibly the controller is in the wiring associated with fan swap but I would be surprised if it was. Or possibly the factory wiring is at fault.
I would think if you can get a shop manual and determine where the temperature monitor/fan switch and wiring is you would be able to solve this problem for a lot cheaper.
Possibly the controller is in the wiring associated with fan swap but I would be surprised if it was. Or possibly the factory wiring is at fault.
I would think if you can get a shop manual and determine where the temperature monitor/fan switch and wiring is you would be able to solve this problem for a lot cheaper.
I plan on my fan swap on Tuesday. I'll try to remember to take pictures to show the shroud swap on the 2014s.
Elmer
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Bravo Flyer (12-10-2018)
#56
Drifting
Probably connecting a scanner to the car and monitoring engine temperature and fan request should give some insight as to where the problem is if you're not sure if it's the fan or the fan relay. I've seen where the fan relay has lost it's ground through a bulkhead connector on its way to the PCM therefore shutting the fan off. In that situation its neither a bad fan or the relay but a relay that has lost it's ground through a connector. Some systems rely on the PCM to ground the relay when it receives a fan request from the various sensors such as the coolant sensor, AC sensor or Vehicle speed sensor. A service manual and a scanner would be the place to start if I was attempting to diagnose the problem.
#58
Race Director
Probably connecting a scanner to the car and monitoring engine temperature and fan request should give some insight as to where the problem is if you're not sure if it's the fan or the fan relay. I've seen where the fan relay has lost it's ground through a bulkhead connector on its way to the PCM therefore shutting the fan off. In that situation its neither a bad fan or the relay but a relay that has lost it's ground through a connector. Some systems rely on the PCM to ground the relay when it receives a fan request from the various sensors such as the coolant sensor, AC sensor or Vehicle speed sensor. A service manual and a scanner would be the place to start if I was attempting to diagnose the problem.
Way to advanced for this forum.
#59
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Probably connecting a scanner to the car and monitoring engine temperature and fan request should give some insight as to where the problem is if you're not sure if it's the fan or the fan relay. I've seen where the fan relay has lost it's ground through a bulkhead connector on its way to the PCM therefore shutting the fan off. In that situation its neither a bad fan or the relay but a relay that has lost it's ground through a connector. Some systems rely on the PCM to ground the relay when it receives a fan request from the various sensors such as the coolant sensor, AC sensor or Vehicle speed sensor. A service manual and a scanner would be the place to start if I was attempting to diagnose the problem.
Good plan! I have the manuals but I don't plan on purchasing a scanner. I let the dealer do the scanning with his tools. The problem is hard to see as it will come clear with the stop and restart of the engine. With the engine temp spiking, it is difficult if not impossible to get the car to the dealer in "trouble" mode. It is rare to be able to get to the dealer with the trouble event ocurring and not lock up your engine. I know that I have an issue, I can't get it repaired unless the dealer sees and confirms that there is an issue, so I have 3 choices:
1) Do nothing and live with the condition until it is so bad the dealer can replicate it at the dealership and get it fixed under warranty
2) Have the dealer replace the fan/shroud/controller for $700 - $800 out of my pocket.
3) Buy the F/S/C and replace it in my garage and save the labor charge.
I picked 3
Elmer
Last edited by eboggs_jkvl; 12-10-2018 at 10:16 AM.
#60
Drifting
Good plan! I have the manuals but I don't plan on purchasing a scanner. I let the dealer do the scanning with his tools. The problem is hard to see as it will come clear with the stop and restart of the engine. With the engine temp spiking, it is difficult if not impossible to get the car to the dealer in "trouble" mode. It is rare to be able to get to the dealer with the trouble event ocurring and not lock up your engine. I know that I have an issue, I can't get it repaired unless the dealer sees and confirms that there is an issue, so I have 3 choices:
1) Do nothing and live with the condition until it is so bad the dealer can replicate it at the dealership and get it fixed under warranty
2) Have the dealer replace the fan/shroud/controller for $700 - $800 out of my pocket.
3) Buy the F/S/C and replace it in my garage and save the labor charge.
I picked 3
Elmer
1) Do nothing and live with the condition until it is so bad the dealer can replicate it at the dealership and get it fixed under warranty
2) Have the dealer replace the fan/shroud/controller for $700 - $800 out of my pocket.
3) Buy the F/S/C and replace it in my garage and save the labor charge.
I picked 3
Elmer