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2016C7.paul

OK, I'm sold on the Pioneers. I'm not willing to play the guessing game on sizing on the others. The reviews are solid and the price is right. If they don't work out, or they get blown out, they won't be expensive to replace.

I'm also sold on the JL 3.5s. Solid reviews.

Last question before I start ordering some shiznit...how did you arrive at the Kilmat's vs Dynamat or Noico? Dynamat seems to have a rep for being overpriced. I read a couple reviews saying beware Kilmat smell in hot weather (butyl), but Dynamat is made of the same stuff. Did you come across Noico in your research?

wlittle49

I did the extreme sound deadening on my C7 and could not tell a bit of difference before and after.

snampro

I think the measurand was "value", meaning performance for cost. The Kilmat had great reviews and was significantly cheaper. Once I ordered it and it arrived, I was satisfied with the quality and just stuck with it. I went with 80 versus 50 mil just on judgement, wanting to maximize the result.

I'll post more details about how I wired in the speakers and more small details when I get a chance.

jamiejam1

So Im planning the Upgrade on my C7 As well... ( I own a shop in South Fl) what Ive found thusfar is that the Midrange in the door is a 4 Ohm Load driver and the 10" door sub is a 1 Ohm Load but that the sub is passively crossed over with the tweeter ( If the graphic wiring breakdown is accurate This now makes me wonder what the impedience is on the tweeter.. If its 4 ohm then the Impedience will be about 2.5 in parallel. so those mid-subs are definitely Out! At this point I have gotten the NAV TV gm 650 Integration ( Im a Nav TV Dealer) Im going to swap the 1" tweeter in the dash and the Midranges with ARC Audio RS1 and RS3's Im still working on the door subs now. Currently the amp Plans are the Arc Audio X2 1100.5 (2 of them ) and the PS8 Digital processor 31 band EQ with phase and time alignment. Once I have a plan of attack in the doors Its game on. for Install Im keeping it simple all amps on the floor then build a panel that fill flush the amps up to the Hump. sub placement will be rather simple. Single 8" arc sub in a box firing 45 degrees utilizing the little storage unit as part of the box eliminating the need to make a bulky box sitting in the corner...
Input and thoughts are appreciated...

2016C7.paul

Jamie, what do you think of OP's speaker selection? ( PIONEER TS-SW2502S4 and JL Audio C2-350x)

2016C7.paul

JMII

Someone posted a picture showing the mid range was 3.2 ohms. If the tweeter and woofer are wired together (as the diagram shows) due to the resistance being at different frequencies the overall ohm load might not change. In theory it would be a like a passive crossover component set and present the amp with a single, uniform load. Based on research from others apparently the woofer has no low pass, it runs full range (ugh) and only the tweeter has a high pass. If you could double check this info that would be great.

I plan on using the stock speakers except for the worthless 8" sub unless the door woofer is really 1 ohm. I believe with a decent amp and DSP processing (going JBL MS-8) the stock speakers could made to play much better. While the stock speakers are junk the poor (or no) crossovers, under powered amp and terrible Bose processing is holding them back. I think a lot can be gained just adding a decent DSP tune. With 10" door woofers, 3.5" door mids and a 3.5" center the sound stage should be excellent in this car. The tweeter placement is less then ideal and my frequency sweeps show it rolls off a bit too soon but it sure looks like you could fit just about any aftermarket tweeter in there given the large grille but I haven't seen what's behind it.

ersatz928

Passive cap cross-over on the tweeter (yellow part mounted to back of tweeter), no passive crossover inductor for the door woofer.

jamiejam1

4 ohm tweeter with the 1 ohm mid sub can only mean they set this up in parallel which would put it at between 2.5 to 3 ohm load, which would then be consistent with the 3'ish ohm midrange... It also means that it (The sub) as some call it, is actually a very low Frequency playing "MID"Bass basically running at full range 60Hz to Maybe 300-400 hz. ( I may disconnect my midrange and run only the 10 and tweeter throw it on the Audio Control RTA with Pink Noise and see what frequencies are actually playin)g..... but limited to its own playable frequency response. This in itself could actually Play in as a benefit to anyone who wants to add a simple amp with high level inputs. Grabbing them at the Bose amp out, into the new sony 6 channel amp with the built in DSP @ High Level Input, you could swap out all the speakers Put in a simple 3 way setup like the new Sony 3 way system reduce the 10 in the door to a 6 1/2 with a plate, add a simple sub at the rear and call it a day.. ( Keeping in mind this is a Lower budget type of setup that eliminates things like the clean sweep, bit one, PS8 type of processors that run 600-1000 each... The worst part of it is having to run a 9 wire to each side of the car into the front stage... Audiophiles and SQ guys NEVER run rear fill speakers, cause your sound stage is always at the front....for the more budget minded this may be an option... as an SQ competitor, Im naturally going full mote on this so it should be interesting.. Love this thread cause we are getting down to the nitty gritty of this.....

jamiejam1

Well I do carry Pioneer as a brand, and JL corporate, is in my back yard. That being said I think the choice of JL is a good one, the Pioneer leaves me with only one concern. The flat sub is exactly that, A subwoofer. I think that if this 10" is not capable of playing the higher mid bass frequencies there me be a hole in the frequency responses between 80 or 100 Hz up to 400 hz which is your standard snare taps going up to the low depth of the vocal frequencies.. Since the OP has already installed these I would defer that question to him for an accurate answer... As it was stated in a previous reply, apparently the 10 and tweeter are running in parallel with each other, so that mean the channel was designated as a full range mid bass with ultra low capabilities... OP? Insight?

jamiejam1

As a NAV TV Dealer I can call and see if I can work it out with NAV TV to see if I can sell it for under map and then help the forum members out....

pdiddy972

Kickass thread - *subscribed*

JMII

Please do!!! I'd love to know what is actually going on with this crazy system. 4 ohm tweeter plus 3.2 ohm mid plus 1 ohm woofer? The more I learn about Bose the more I hate them

Yep all front sound stage for me

And you do NOT want to grab the high level off the Bose amp, its got all kinds of volume based EQ non-sense going on. You could, but only IF you used the DSP's volume control to get around this.

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Jaykoh-Z51

Jaykoh-Z51

Loving this thread too...

I may start by just swapping the 8" sub...then I'd like to add an amp and separate volume control to that. This may be enough for me...but, we know how THAT goes with our rides.

Jaykoh-Z51

Snampro, how long and involved was it with removing just the 8" sub?

Saaaaay...for someone who really hasn't done that kind of tear down before. And I'll definitely order those tools you mentioned.

Woodson

Awesome write-up, much appreciated. I am going to do the sub and Kilmat as a first step. Order placed today; will post when I get around to doing the work.

snampro

With the plastic tools, I think you could do the 8" sub in an hour. I took the carpet out of the back then took off the rear plastic panel covering the 8" sub, but I think I could take the plastic panel off without removing the carpet. I'm going to take that apart again this week to play with the 8 inch sub box and to chase the last remaining vibration in the trunk, so I'll try just removing the plastic panel. The 8 inch sub comes out easy, and the box comes off easy, too. Just take your time removing panels. Look through the threads in the how-to section of the C7 Tech forum to at least inform you of where all the clips are located, then you know exactly where to pry and pull.

When I take it out I'll take more pictures and post them here.